[Danny]

So, I guess a lot of folk on here will have home training facilities somewhere around the 45 degree angle.

That means, probably, that you're a keen climber operating somewhere in the low/mid 7s to low 8s.

I have a pretty decent board that already has a rake of holds on it. Some of them are home-made, some bought, some good, some shit. It's hard to wade through all the online hold retailers and guess what's going to be good, though some manufacturers have the foresight to specify intended angle, most don't.

What I'd like to do is create an online list of good sets, to sort the wheat from the chaff.

Starting the ball rolling, these two sets from the Beacon are well loved on my board. Skin / tendon friendly, not too pricey and can be bolted or screwed on:

http://www.climbukshop.com/product.php/20/cellar-dwellers-set-2

http://www.climbukshop.com/product.php/118/classic-pinches-set-5

Would like to get some extra fat pinches and slopes that are similarly good.

[slackline]

So, I guess a lot of folk on here will have home training facilities somewhere around the 45 degree angle.

That means, probably, that you're a keen climber operating somewhere in the low/mid 7s to low 8s.

I have a pretty decent board that already has a rake of holds on it. Some of them are home-made, some bought, some good, some shit. It's hard to wade through all the online hold retailers and guess what's going to be good, though some manufacturers have the foresight to specify intended angle, most don't.

What I'd like to do is create an online list of good sets, to sort the wheat from the chaff.

Would you consider writing this up on the Wiki as it can then be maintained as an article rather than a (potentially long) thread that people can't be arsed reading through and instead post a question thats already been answered in the thread

As you'll see I've made a start with this information....

Starting the ball rolling, these two sets from the Beacon are well loved on my board. Skin / tendon friendly, not too pricey and can be bolted or screwed on:

http://www.climbukshop.com/product.php/20/cellar-dwellers-set-2

http://www.climbukshop.com/product.php/118/classic-pinches-set-5

Would like to get some extra fat pinches and slopes that are similarly good.

[Danny]

Sounds like a plan.

[Danny]

Half arsed effort at a little structure now up. Seems like I'm a bit of a wiki Luddite.

[Dr T]

For what it's worth I'm rather fond of my Varian sculpted beastly specials...

[StillTryingForTheTop]

These guys make some good holds, and the guy that sculpts them (Alex Fry) is (I believe) a well known and well thought of route setter.

I am sure if people contacted them they would happily advise on what would work best for each individual

http://www.pcholds.co.uk/

[Danny]

Sounds like an advertisement to me. I think it would be more useful to get information about holds (specific sets) that people rate for training, from actual experience. In my view, anything overly weird looking, tweaky, or attempting to imitate real rock isn't usually very good for training.

I'll put the beastmakers on the wiki.

[Drew]

anything... attempting to imitate real rock isn't usually very good for training.

Agreed. If the grit is going to eat my skin when the weather's good, I'd rather the plastic doesn't when the weather's poo.

[tom_greenwich]

I've got a set of the Moon board holds, and although I don't climb in the 7's, think they are a pretty good option (if quite an expensive one). Only downside is they don't have matched pairs of holds

[StillTryingForTheTop]

which is, my post?

Can assure you it is not, I've nothing to do with them, I just climb at the Pinnacle cente in Northampton and know the guys from there.

Happy to delete it if required though, don't want to rock the boat.

Gary

Sounds like an advertisement to me. I think it would be more useful to get information about holds (specific sets) that people rate for training, from actual experience. In my view, anything overly weird looking, tweaky, or attempting to imitate real rock isn't usually very good for training.

I'll put the beastmakers on the wiki.

[Fultonius]

Methinks the point was that you should give a little more info on why you like them, how they compare, what the feel like etc.

Just saying they're good is a bit like saying "Headaches? Heroine is good for headaches".  Might be true, but not very useful...

[north_country_boy]

the Bleaustone training range are still the best resin training holds available IMHO.

[StillTryingForTheTop]

Ah, sorry, TBH not experienced enough with other styles of holds and certainly not a good enough climber to climb V7 (probably would say I boulder V3), to even attempt to offer advice on which holds were better than others for V7.

Was more just to highlight to people that they exist, and would more than likely be able to offer advice dependant on each individuals need if people contacted them.  My interpretation of the topic was for the purpose of building up a list of resources?  I wasn't going for the fact that I believe their entire range of holds is superior to others, just that if someone wanted advice coupled with holds, then I believe they would be excellent for that.

I have no link to the company, just attend the pinnacle centre lots, and pay for the occasional training plan / coaching session off Alex.

Again, if this is off topic, I will delete my comments.

Gary.

[pete b]

Why has no-one mentioned the moon-board school room sets? Surely they're designed for exactly this kind of thing and grade range. I've never tried them. Are they considered not good, over-expensive?

[north_country_boy]

Why has no-one mentioned the moon-board school room sets? Surely they're designed for exactly this kind of thing and grade range. I've never tried them. Are they considered not good, over-expensive?

There are some tweaky horrors and they are quite sharp with a coarse finish for board holds. again IMHO.

[Danny]

Agree about the moon holds. I have a couple that a friend gave me - one is a really nice flat pinch, the other is a strange tweaky square crimp.

Always fancied a set of bleaustone holds - the 45 slopes look good. Pretty expensive though.

[Danny]

In fact, does anyone know of some good 45 degree slopes that aren't Bleaustone?
Can't believe they cornered the market here.