the shizzle > get involved: access, environment, BMC

BMC Better bolts campaign 2012-13 and Peak bolting workshop

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danm:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/better-bolts-campaign-201213-great-news-for-sport-climbers

Spread the word, I've emailed as many folks as possible. It's a decent sized fund this year, and with the uncertain economic outlook I'd recommend it as being a good time to order a decent wedge of bolts.

For Peak based folk, I'm in discussion with the easily broken one and others about running a workshop (probably at Raven Tor) so if you want to get involved but aren't sure you know how to bolt safely, indicate your interest and we'll sort out some dates.

shark:
I'd be up for that and know a couple of routes I'd be keen to practice placing them  ;)

danm:
Awesome! The general idea is to do just that - we'll waste a couple of bolts at a suitable ground level location where we can demonstrate and discuss the appropriate techniques and then people can go and re-equip some actual routes if they feel confident doing this.

Accessing routes to re-equip them can be done either by accessing from the top, or by climbing/stick-clipping from below. Obviously the first isn't always possible but can be very quick, and climbing/stick clipping is only an option if the existing gear hasn't completely rotted, otherwise it becomes too dangerous. Any thoughts on this, being a punter I don't know the crag that well  :-[

shark:

--- Quote from: danm on August 22, 2012, 01:58:08 pm ---Accessing routes to re-equip them can be done either by accessing from the top, or by climbing/stick-clipping from below. Obviously the first isn't always possible but can be very quick, and climbing/stick clipping is only an option if the existing gear hasn't completely rotted, otherwise it becomes too dangerous. Any thoughts on this, being a punter I don't know the crag that well  :-[

--- End quote ---

There are so many bolts that clipsticking is straightforward pretty much anywhere on the crag. The top of the crag is easily accessed with plenty of trees to ab off but more care is required as it can be unstable in the upper reaches.

Do you have a cordless grinder to take off through bolt stubs left sticking out on Indecent? I was going to use a hacksaw otherwise. 

nik at work:
Can you not bash then into the rock with a hammer? Should be easy as long as the holes have been over-drilled. If they haven't then a good (and accurate) twatting with a lump hammer to the side of the studs should snap them off pretty flush to the rockface without really damaging the rock (certainly less damaging than trying to angle grind flush with the rock while swinging on a rope...)

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