[danm]

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/better-bolts-campaign-201213-great-news-for-sport-climbers

Spread the word, I've emailed as many folks as possible. It's a decent sized fund this year, and with the uncertain economic outlook I'd recommend it as being a good time to order a decent wedge of bolts.

For Peak based folk, I'm in discussion with the easily broken one and others about running a workshop (probably at Raven Tor) so if you want to get involved but aren't sure you know how to bolt safely, indicate your interest and we'll sort out some dates.

[shark]

I'd be up for that and know a couple of routes I'd be keen to practice placing them 

[danm]

Awesome! The general idea is to do just that - we'll waste a couple of bolts at a suitable ground level location where we can demonstrate and discuss the appropriate techniques and then people can go and re-equip some actual routes if they feel confident doing this.

Accessing routes to re-equip them can be done either by accessing from the top, or by climbing/stick-clipping from below. Obviously the first isn't always possible but can be very quick, and climbing/stick clipping is only an option if the existing gear hasn't completely rotted, otherwise it becomes too dangerous. Any thoughts on this, being a punter I don't know the crag that well 

[shark]

Accessing routes to re-equip them can be done either by accessing from the top, or by climbing/stick-clipping from below. Obviously the first isn't always possible but can be very quick, and climbing/stick clipping is only an option if the existing gear hasn't completely rotted, otherwise it becomes too dangerous. Any thoughts on this, being a punter I don't know the crag that well 

There are so many bolts that clipsticking is straightforward pretty much anywhere on the crag. The top of the crag is easily accessed with plenty of trees to ab off but more care is required as it can be unstable in the upper reaches.

Do you have a cordless grinder to take off through bolt stubs left sticking out on Indecent? I was going to use a hacksaw otherwise. 

[nik at work]

Can you not bash then into the rock with a hammer? Should be easy as long as the holes have been over-drilled. If they haven't then a good (and accurate) twatting with a lump hammer to the side of the studs should snap them off pretty flush to the rockface without really damaging the rock (certainly less damaging than trying to angle grind flush with the rock while swinging on a rope...)

[kc]

An angle grinder is available for use. Any bolt studs that stick out at the tor have already been twatted that is why they are still there.
I have already had some ideas for bolt replacements at the tor that would serve as good demos ie close to the ground.
The Newtons Cradle  (belayers) bolt to the side of Revelations, Hooligan,  Dialectics. There is also Tin Of that needs doing. Perhaps the belay can move up above the break on that to stop people grabbing it.

[shark]

There is also Tin Of that needs doing. Perhaps the belay can move up above the break on that to stop people grabbing it.

 

[Paul B]

so apart from Shark and the BMC guidebook team, nobody else is registering their interest? 

Remember, at some point (next year) the limestone might actually be dry.

[Bonjoy]

I've edited the post title which may or may not help.

[mic_b]

Sounds like a good idea. I would definitely be up for coming.

[Stu Littlefair]

I'd go

[kc]

Just out of curiosity, does anybody know who put the 4 new resin bolts in the Tor. 3 in Tin Of and the  two timed chopped punters bolt on Sardine? I am not bothered by this, just a matter of accountability as 70 odd % of the bolts were placed my myself in 02/3 using a specific resin. If there is a problam in years to come we will know which batch need looking at. None of these new bolts were supplied by the PBF.

[Stu Littlefair]

[UKC]I don't know, but I am offended by your use of the term "punter", when you meant to write "short person"[/UKC]

[Baron Longback]

I'm on for the workshop too

[kc]

[UKC]I don't know, but I am offended by your use of the term "punter", when you meant to write "short person"[/UKC]

No I don,t mean short. This bolt better protects the left hand "unofficial" sequence that is perhaps more reach dependand than the original. "Punter" well that's me too as it is my preferred sequence. Still don't think it requires its own bolt.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18956.0.html

[Stu Littlefair]

That's cos you never fall off it.

[tj]

Hi,

I'd be interested in the workshop too

Tom

[danm]

Great, looks like a decent amount of interest for this. I'll have a chat with the people I would really like to be there and then probably stick a poll up with a choice of dates, and go with the most popular - most likely will be October as September is already fully booked up for me.

[El Mocho]

There is also Tin Of that needs doing. Perhaps the belay can move up above the break on that to stop people grabbing it.

 

Not been to tor for 6 months or so and have now forgotten all the route names, but this is the one which goes left out of Sardine? If so I put a 'new' belay chain onto the old belay (directly onto the one good bolt, clipped to the old bolt) If you do replace the belay this is in good condition - I had it passed on to me from another bolt fund who had got it from a climbing wall when they replaced all their belays (being a little vague as I think technically it should have been chucked) I think I have another of these belay set ups (2 hangers, v chain, 2 steel captive eye biners on end) which I'll prob never use which someone can have for replacement...

[goonie]

Hi all

I lurk on here occasionally and would be really interested in attending the workshop.

Cheers

Gordon

[Paul B]

The current plan is to start at 10am on Sunday 7th Oct (subject to confirming this is OK with the landowner).

It will also be announced at the Peak area meet and I'll make sure to send out emails/contact everybody who has expressed an interest thus far.

[mic_b]

Hi, If it's not too late I'd like to come to the bolting demo/discussion in October?

Thanks

Michael

[Paul B]

its not too late until after the event.

[danm]

OK, latest update: the current plan is to run this on Sunday 7th October.

I'm waiting for the nod from the landowner to make sure it's OK with them, assuming it is I'll post more details here and on the BMC website. Bolting in the Peak will be on the agenda at the Area meeting in Glossop next week,  I'll be there to take contact details of anyone there who is interested in this workshop or wants to talk about it.

[Bonjoy]

Sorry, can't make that day as I'm on holiday in the Lakes.