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Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT (Read 36884 times)

Greg C

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#25 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 03:51:12 pm
Good to see this up and running again Greg. I'm sure Doylo will give you all the relevant info (particularly on the limestone stuff) ,but glancing at the Welsh mountain crag list there are lots of new additions and lots of grade changes (some because of downgrades from repeaters, some because of broken holds).

For example:

New Noise re-climbed with new lower start

Roadside arete in Diesel Power is arbitrary - not really any harder than original

Mr Fantastic is 8A or perhaps even easier now

Subversion and Sub Society 7C+

Compact Culture split grade FA and repeater thought different: 8A+/B

What it is to burn is very minor - I would leave it out

Cross therapy probably 7C+


New stuff in mountains/down Lleyn:

Isles of Wonder 8B - Ogwen - Carreg Mianog - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)

Go Motion 8A Crafnant - Pete Robins 2012 (unrepeated)

Worzel Gunnage 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - Cromlech Boulders Richard Ames 2011 (repeated by Dave Noden)

My Own Private Idaho 8B - Crafnant - Chris Davies 2011 (unrepeated)

Corridors of Power 7C+/8A - Llanberis Pass - Cwm Glas Bach Dave Noden 2010 (given 8A, but Pete Robins thought 7C+)

The Tracks 8A+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)

Stoned Temple Pilots 8A/+ - Llanberis Pass - The Barrel Chris Davies 2010 (given 8A+, but Pete Robins thought 8A)

Danny LaRue 7C+/8A! - Ogwen Valley, Lily Savage Area Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)

Dolly Rocker 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Mike Adams)

The Crest sds 8A+ - Bethesda Wave - Ogwen Dave Noden 2010 (repeated by Pete Robins)

Left Said Fred 8A - Lleyn - Porth Ysgo - Mike Adams 2010 (unrepeated)

A Life Aesthetic 8B - Tremadog - Moel y Gest - Chris Davies 2009 (unrepeated)

Light Weight 8A - Dolwyddelan - Craig Pont y Pant (aka: Rhiw Goch) Chris Davies 2009 (repeated by Pete Robins)

Jerry’s Left Hand 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2008 (unrepeated)

Kingdom of Fear 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (unrepeated)

Kingdom of Pain 8A - Ogwen - Sheep Pen Boulders Adam Hocking 2007 (repeated by Pete Robins)


Still quite a few unrepeated grade 8s in the mountains - if any strong types fancy popping over to Wales and giving them a go this autumn I'd appreciate any feedback for the new guide, even if you don't get up them any opinion on the grades is better than nothing. Otherwise we just have to rely upon the fa's suggestion and/or Pete Robins.


These should all be added all now.

Greg C

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#26 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 04:06:59 pm
I've updated the North West list. Is there anything in the Cheshire area?

GCW

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#27 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 05:28:31 pm
Fantastic effort Greg. How are you splitting North West and Lake District?  Would they do better being stuck together?

Greg C

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#28 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 20, 2012, 05:49:43 pm
Fantastic effort Greg. How are you splitting North West and Lake District?  Would they do better being stuck together?

Thanks.

The lists for both are roughly up to date:
NW: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdEhaZlJvUTJXbzZGX3c4SzRYNzJXYVE&output=html
Lakes: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdEFZa01aSHNWYjNkNVZfcjloYUtRVkE&output=html

I've put Thorn Crag into the North West list, as in the real (non LakesBloc) world it makes more sense. Thus Thorn down to Cheshire I guess would be classed as  'North West' in this context.

Greg C

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Doylo

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#30 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 22, 2012, 08:39:49 pm
Another Welsh mountain one that I forgot:

Beatitude Kiss 8A - Tremadog - Moel y Gest Dave Noden 2009 (unrepeated? This may have been chipped after Dave's ascent)

Did Pete actually finish Lightweight? Thought Jordan did Beatitude?

north_country_boy

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#31 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 22, 2012, 09:38:31 pm
Think Scotland looks pretty close now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html

One more for Dumby.....

Hokku, 8a/+, Dumbarton. Dave Macleod (maybe 2006?) second half of Sosho....

Adam Lincoln

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#32 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 22, 2012, 09:40:34 pm
Think Scotland looks pretty close now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html

chahala still showing as 8a. Pretty sure its thought to be 8a+

andy_e

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#33 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 09:40:33 am
8A-! Sweet.

Bonjoy

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#34 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 11:36:09 am
Think Scotland looks pretty close now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html

I know Mike Adams did some “repeats” of SiO probs on Skye this summer. I’m sure at least one was an 8.

Jaspersharpe

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#35 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 11:39:23 am
I hope there are some black and white photos of Mike climbing these problems 300ft above a raging sea.

SA Chris

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#36 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 11:43:17 am
Think Scotland looks pretty close now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html

For the sake of Accuracy, it's Cammachmore Bay for Devistator, and I think there's Stoke's Croft @ Torridon I mentioned earlier that Dan did.

Greg C

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#37 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 12:08:55 pm
8A-! Sweet.

Just to be clear, I'm not advocating this as a real grade, it's simply for highlighting that the line has possibly been given 7C+/8A at some point.

Greg C

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#38 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 12:10:00 pm
Think Scotland looks pretty close now:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdGRqZUtOd3RVeUQtMzBMMW4yeE90Z2c&output=html

For the sake of Accuracy, it's Cammachmore Bay for Devistator, and I think there's Stoke's Croft @ Torridon I mentioned earlier that Dan did.

I'll sort the Cammachmorre Bay thing.

Stokes Croft: Dan (and Dave) reckon 7C+ for Dave's beta.

Greg C

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#39 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 12:11:08 pm
I'll make the other Scots amendments.

standard

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#40 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 01:21:13 pm
Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.

Greg C

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#41 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 01:53:04 pm
Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.

Yeah of course, are they at Dinas Rock? What's the full details - crag, grades, FA info?

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#42 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 03:39:56 pm
Another Welsh mountain one that I forgot:

Beatitude Kiss 8A - Tremadog - Moel y Gest Dave Noden 2009 (unrepeated? This may have been chipped after Dave's ascent)

Did Pete actually finish Lightweight? Thought Jordan did Beatitude?

My mistake - Pete very nearly did it and on the basis of his attempt confirmed the 8A grade.

Not sure about Jordan?

r-man

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#43 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 04:34:54 pm
Jordan's done it, it's on his 8a.nu ticklist.

Doylo

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#44 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 06:39:29 pm
Ok North Wales lime:
 Parisellas:

The Last stand 8a+ , Chris davies 2012
Bonatrocity 8b., Ben Bransby 2012
Broken Trigger 8a (with knees) dave Noden 2012
Dorsal Stream 8b Pete Robins 2011
The Incredible Bulk 8b  Pete Robins 2010
Broken Sam 8a me 2010
The Incredible Bulk (part II) 8a 2009 Pete Robins
The Wire 8a+ Pete Robins 2009
Grimage 8a+ ? ?
Broken Direct 8a/+ dave noden 2008

Tremeirchion:

36 Chambers SDS 8a Danny Cattell 2009

Angel bay:
Serpentine Pad 8a Chris Davies 2010
Manchester Dogs has been destroyed by the sea


Pill Box:
Last Drink 8a+ me 2012
Jack The Drunk 8a+ me 2009

West Shore (Chinatown):
The Spray 8a Sam Cattell 2011

Little Orme:
Batman 8a Sam Cattell 2011

Pantymwyn:
Spinal Tap 8a Sam cattell



Doylo

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#45 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 06:59:45 pm
also at Pantymywn

Pantymywn Traverse 8a Holger Moeller 2008

Greg C

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#46 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 07:42:01 pm
Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.

Added.

Greg C

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#47 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 07:43:27 pm
Ok North Wales lime:
 Parisellas:

The Last stand 8a+ , Chris davies 2012
Bonatrocity 8b., Ben Bransby 2012
Broken Trigger 8a (with knees) dave Noden 2012
Dorsal Stream 8b Pete Robins 2011
The Incredible Bulk 8b  Pete Robins 2010
Broken Sam 8a me 2010
The Incredible Bulk (part II) 8a 2009 Pete Robins
The Wire 8a+ Pete Robins 2009
Grimage 8a+ ? ?
Broken Direct 8a/+ dave noden 2008

Tremeirchion:

36 Chambers SDS 8a Danny Cattell 2009

Angel bay:
Serpentine Pad 8a Chris Davies 2010
Manchester Dogs has been destroyed by the sea


Pill Box:
Last Drink 8a+ me 2012
Jack The Drunk 8a+ me 2009

West Shore (Chinatown):
The Spray 8a Sam Cattell 2011

Little Orme:
Batman 8a Sam Cattell 2011

Pantymwyn:
Spinal Tap 8a Sam cattell

also at Pantymywn

Pantymywn Traverse 8a Holger Moeller 2008

Added:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AoSRjxmc-dJsdFdKMGZKakxmbEh2ZU1RYzlMb0Y4ZGc&output=html

Greg C

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#48 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 07:48:51 pm
Anyone know about anything in the Bristol area other than this?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=230634

r-man

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#49 Re: Elite UKBouldering Inventory RE-BOOT
August 23, 2012, 08:59:59 pm
Any interest in adding South Wales problems to the list?
Namely Wife of Fyfe and Body Wisdom.

Wife of Fyfe is 8A, not 8A+? At least, that's what it says on Dave Macleod's blog.

 

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