[Fiend]

After some ideas for venues suitable for a long weekend or so.

Requirements:

Reliable weather.
Cool in summer.
Guidebook.
Reasonably easy flights.
Reasonably easy accomodation.
Variety of problems in V2-6 range (not all fridge hugging elbow mashing prows .

Ta x

[Paul B]

Its hardly epic but getting around magic wood can be quite awkward with pads / bags (just thinking of your 'specific' fitness issues).

The guidebook is a good online PDF (or the one I used was).
Weather - hardly cool but cool enough.
Accommodation - either the ghetto campsite or the $$$ Bunkhouse.
Problems - I'm reading this as below 7A (?). You'll be fine for a long weekend but much more and I'd predict boredom.

Another option might be Ailefroide?

[andy_e]

NW Scotland? 

[Greg C]

Silvapark/Silvretta is ideal for a long weekend in terms of the everything - climbing, campsite, logistical needs (food etc.) - being in close proximity. Although, the nearest viable airport maybe Zurich (2.75 hours drive away) depending on where you live in the UK.

It's a truly beautiful place, is relatively unspoiled (unlike Magic Wood), dries instantly in the event of rain (unlike Magic Wood), has a brilliant and reasonably priced campsite close to hand and has genuinely good summer conditions (unlike Magic Wood). Possible downsides (depending on your attitude towards them) are: its a bit rough and there is a short but hefty uphill walk-in to get to the bouldering.

I've been twice and I'd go back.

Some more info here: http://info.rockrun.com/articles/silvapark-bouldering-austria.html

[Fiend]

Both sound good.

I'm actually not too bothered about the walk-in bit because being bouldering I can take walks slowly and still get plenty enough climbing done, also will be good for general training.

[SA Chris]

Plus they are at fairly high altitude so you will be breathing oot yer erse anyway.

[Fiend]

Hmmmm, Silvretta looks cool and sounds like a good location, but the landings sound a bit harsh!

[r-man]

Ailefroide is good, with plenty of sub 7A stuff.
http://info.rockrun.com/articles/ailefroide-bouldering-france.html

Tralenta is another nice spot. Just up the road from Briancon, in Bonneval-sur-arc (down the road from val d'Isere and les arcs) Nice area. Beautiful little village. Boulders along a valley, and sometimes by the river. Climbable in summer as it's nice and high. We were there in august and had a small amount of rain, but mostly sunshine and often cool breezes. Lots of the boulders are on top of each other, though there are a couple of sectors with perfect landings. Here's the topo http://ebookbrowse.com/topo-tralenta-v1-1-pdf-d292126890
Tralenta Bloc Party 2008

[BenF]

I'd second Ailefroide but it's not really a huge venue.  Wonderful place to spend time though and the routes are also awseome fun.

Chironico is a bigger area with tonnes of quality easier problems and I've not found it too hot in the summer; the tree cover and aspect helps a lot with that.  Climb early and late, choose your problems carefully and you'll enjoy it.  Dries fast and there's a brilliant guidebook too.  Not far from St Gottardo which is also excellent in the summer.  Not sure how accessible for a quick trip it is though as we've always been in the car and out in Switzerland for a long trip when we've visited these places.

[Fiend]

Both of those sound nice although I'm not sure I could bring myself to go in the same area as Val Diz or Les Arcs without planks strapped to my feet, just wouldn't seem right!

I would prefer stuff that errrs on the guaranteed cool side rather than climb in the evening side

[BenF]

I would prefer stuff that errrs on the guaranteed cool side rather than climb in the evening side

Fair enough but I spent four days there one August and climbed all through the day.  Cool it was not but more than bearable in the trees or breeze.  However, I understand your point and I'd much rather have the cooler temps too.  Up at St Gottardo was cool in the altitude and breeze. 

Sadly Ailefroide is hot during the day too and most of the good blocks are best climbed on early and in the evening.  That pisses me off about Ailefroide but has been useful since I've only bouldered at Ailefroide when out there route climbing and it was handy to be able to do routes during the day, then boulder in the evening cool.

[tim palmer]

Its hardly epic but getting around magic wood can be quite awkward with pads / bags (just thinking of your 'specific' fitness issues).

The guidebook is a good online PDF (or the one I used was).
Weather - hardly cool but cool enough.
Accommodation - either the ghetto campsite or the $$$ Bunkhouse.
Problems - I'm reading this as below 7A (?). You'll be fine for a long weekend but much more and I'd predict boredom.

Another option might be Ailefroide?

IF you look carefully there are other places to stay near magic wood, they are just further up the valley (so you would need a car) but they are affordable. 
I have to say I didn't think much of ailefroide, a couple of good problems but hot and not much shade.

I would prefer stuff that errrs on the guaranteed cool side rather than climb in the evening side

I have the same problem, maybe around innsbruck but to be honest i think you will struggle to get guaranteed cool weather anywhere in europe in the height of summer I am afraid

[andy_e]

Lofoten?

[SA Chris]

Even that can be scorchio, and wettio. A mate (dogden, who you met) went for 2 weeks and had 12 days of rain. Plus it's a full day plus travelling to get there.

[andy_e]

Sweden? Vaestervik?

[tim palmer]

Sweden? Vaestervik?

hot, midgie and not exactly long weekend sort of distance

[dave]

Ireland? Cheap flights and weather is reliable - reliably wet. You can just sit in a pub drinking £5-a-pint guiness and cooking craic.

[andy_e]

hot, midgie and not exactly long weekend sort of distance

I just had a long weekend in Stockholm where it was cool and breezy 

[tim palmer]

I just had a long weekend in Stockholm where it was cool and breezy 

ooooo look at you! 
Maybe I will re-think my summer plans then, I have family there who have said it would be horrendous midgie-wise, and warm.

[Fiend]

I went to Bohuslan last summer, it was brilliant for trad, a bit warm for bouldering though.

[andy_e]

To be honest it is usually midgy and warm, I just think we were lucky to get a breeze. A friend who lives in Stockholm has said it can get pretty bad!

[SA Chris]

So ignore previous statement then.

[andy_e]

You can't just ignore anomalous data!

[SA Chris]

Watch me.

[Fiend]

I'm going to ignore both of you