Now available ..."The Wedge" (Read 30225 times)

shark · July 30, 2012, 10:27:47 am

In collaboration with Paul at Crusher Holds over the last 9 months we've developed a light portable fingerboard good for warming up at the crag and the climbing wall or for training at home.

Cost is £35 including P&P (UK delivery) and should be up on the Crusher shop by the end of this week.

In the meantime here's an intro....

(Paul doesn't let me get a word in edgeways)

abarro81 · July 30, 2012, 10:44:20 am

Intrigued by the 2-sided design. Looks nice and small for putting in a bag to take to the crag.. look forward to testing yours at malham sometime.

shark · July 30, 2012, 10:49:11 am

Quote from: abarro81 on July 30, 2012, 10:44:20 am

Intrigued by the 2-sided design. Looks nice and small for putting in a bag to take to the crag.. look forward to testing yours at malham sometime.

It feels like a more natural and comfortable way to hang compared to conventional fingerboards as your arms aren't twisted.

SA Chris · July 30, 2012, 10:59:32 am

Fingeborads at the crag; is this the thin end of the wedge?

Turboman · July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am

Not listened to video as I'm in the office.
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You have two spare blank sides you could stick some extra holds on (pockets maybe).

Looks interesting.

andy_e · July 30, 2012, 11:09:52 am

Quote from: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am

Just a thought but why stop at two sides?

You want one of these then:

Paul B · July 30, 2012, 11:12:51 am

the real question is Shark...

...what does EVA think of your wedge?

Turboman · July 30, 2012, 11:16:16 am

Looks l

Quote from: andi_e on July 30, 2012, 11:09:52 am

Quote from: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You want one of these then:

Looks like something Randall would train on.

shark · July 30, 2012, 11:22:29 am

Quote from: Turboman on July 30, 2012, 11:02:03 am

Not listened to video as I'm in the office.
Just a thought but why stop at two sides?
You have two spare blank sides you could stick some extra holds on (pockets maybe).

Looks interesting.

Good thought in principle but it would have to be for a "maxi" model as the lump of wood would have to be wider to accommodate more holds especially deep pockets.

Another use for those staying at hotels travelling with work or on enforced non-climbing holidays is to attach it to a lat pull down machine in the hotel gym.

shark · July 30, 2012, 11:25:18 am

Quote from: Paul B on July 30, 2012, 11:12:51 am

the real question is Shark...

...what does EVA think of your wedge?

I'd be gutted if she thought it was crap

Fiend · July 30, 2012, 11:30:20 am

Well that looks pretty funky and well designed

dave · July 30, 2012, 11:31:09 am

can you crimp those slots?

shark · July 30, 2012, 11:52:15 am

Quote from: dave on July 30, 2012, 11:31:09 am

can you crimp those slots?

You can full crimp all except the deepest (second joint) slot

Fiend · July 30, 2012, 12:38:42 pm

Wait....you have a 2nd joint slot?? What is this, training for VSes??

shark · July 30, 2012, 12:43:39 pm

Quote from: Fiend on July 30, 2012, 12:38:42 pm

Wait....you have a 2nd joint slot?? What is this, training for VSes??

They are for warming up, weighted hangs, one arm pull-ups and smuggling drugs

Three Nine · July 30, 2012, 01:55:25 pm

Can you bring one down the foundry?

shark · July 30, 2012, 02:10:46 pm

Quote from: Three Nine on July 30, 2012, 01:55:25 pm

Can you bring one down the foundry?

I've got one on its way in the post for you. I'll get in touch when it arrives and bring it down.

Three Nine · July 30, 2012, 02:30:26 pm

Kick ass.

b3n99 · July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm

Think this is a great idea for warming up. Seen small fingerboards people use for warming up before but tends to rely on two points of attatchment which means they're very limited.

Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position. Havnt tried it for one armed hangs so obviously cant comment but wonder what it's like stability wise? Does it roll at all if using it just one side?

tomtom · July 30, 2012, 04:29:57 pm

Erm, doesnt Dense use something similar?

Aside from a small dark cloud hanging over part of the crag, a mini-fingerboard hanging from a tree usually signfies his precence...

shark · July 30, 2012, 04:35:15 pm

Quote from: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm

Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position. Havnt tried it for one armed hangs so obviously cant comment but wonder what it's like stability wise? Does it roll at all if using it just one side?

Its what I've been using for the last few weeks for my weighted hangs with superb results and before that on a prototype for a 90 hang workout which included alternated finger combinations, repeaters, encores and maximal hangs.

Before that I also did assisted one armers on an edge with foot in an etrier on a pulley and counterweight set up which gave enough stability.

However, I agree for unassisted one arm hangs and pull-ups on the smaller slots it will be ~~pants~~ limited.

If you think about it in one handed work on a fixed board you would tend towards the same side-on position as you would hanging on the Wedge with two hands.

Serpico · July 30, 2012, 04:35:34 pm

Quote from: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm

Sorry to put a downer on it but can't personally see it as a very effective tool for regular training. Hanging two hands facing each other isn't very climbing specific and personally I don't it would be as effective as the standard face on fingerboard position.

And yet in your own avatar your right hand and arm is in that exact position. Lots of climbing moves involve twisting in which puts the hand and arm in that position, and for pure finger training it doesn't matter too much where the arm is in relation to the body.

Paul B · July 30, 2012, 04:37:08 pm

Quote from: b3n99 on July 30, 2012, 04:21:38 pm

Think this is a great idea for warming up. Seen small fingerboards people use for warming up before but tends to rely on two points of attatchment which means they're very limited.

Really? All the instances I've seen have been equalised to a single point of attachment. Its been quite amusing watching incompetent clipstickers put these in the first bolt of routes and then look absolutely stumped when it comes to getting them back at the end of the day!

b3n99 · July 30, 2012, 05:58:05 pm

Quote from: Serpico on July 30, 2012, 04:35:34 pm

And yet in your own avatar your right hand and arm is in that exact position. Lots of climbing moves involve twisting in which puts the hand and arm in that position, and for pure finger training it doesn't matter too much where the arm is in relation to the body.

I can see your point for finger training although i still think the 'squeezing' action you will get using two hands will alter training effects. I was more talking about the pull-ups side as shown in parts of the video. Just think it is significantly rarer to find this two hands facing and close together position rather than the standard straight on position of a normal board.

I'm in no way saying I dont think it's a worthwhile product it's just that personally I see its main advantages as a easy, portable warm up tool.

Probes · August 15, 2012, 01:41:24 pm

The Wedge is now available to purchase from the webshop...

http://crusherholds.co.uk/the-wedge-1