[a dense loner]

Even barrows has been inspired, I saw him do 1-4 on the campus board. That guys got some stamina, took him at least 10 mins to get a kneebar between 1 and 7 for the move

[Jaspersharpe]

What the fuck was Megos doing on that board, standing on the massive jugs? That's no way to teach people to get strong, no wonder he's already reached his peak and is getting slower at climbing 9as. What a punter.

Hojer is ridiculous.

[Nibile]

 

[gme]

Brilliant. Absolutely loving this.

This is what training should be like, raw power. Cant remember Ben, Jerry and Malc ever suffering outside from not doing any technical training. And Leachy was no slouch either despite not knowing what the things on the end of his legs were.

Even better that he just ticked off loads of out door stuff and won a WC comp.

[Doylo]

Brilliant. Absolutely loving this.

This is what training should be like, raw power. Cant remember Ben, Jerry and Malc ever suffering outside from not doing any technical training. And Leachy was no slouch either despite not knowing what the things on the end of his legs were.

Even better that he just ticked off loads of out door stuff and won a WC comp.

Too right. Experienced climbers know how to climb, its physical attributes that are going to get them up harder stuff.  Unless you're into slabs...

[climbspray]

[Muenchener]

Too right. Experienced climbers know how to climb, its physical attributes that are going to get them up harder stuff. 

I recall doing a karate class with legendary hard man Terry O'Neill years ago. He was a 5th Dan at the time, and said he had started weight training because he felt he had got as far as perfecting technique was going to get him. He said we shouldn't, because we had no technique to speak of yet and should be focusing on that. Makes sense for climbing too I think: learn to climb first then get stronger. I'm still firmly in Phase One.

[ianv]

"I dont think mere technique helps you climb harder.............YOU NEED POWER!"  Classic line,  typical German, Gullich would be proud.

Hojer is a total monster 

[Doylo]

Too right. Experienced climbers know how to climb, its physical attributes that are going to get them up harder stuff. 

I recall doing a karate class with legendary hard man Terry O'Neill years ago. He was a 5th Dan at the time, and said he had started weight training because he felt he had got as far as perfecting technique was going to get him. He said we shouldn't, because we had no technique to speak of yet and should be focusing on that. Makes sense for climbing too I think: learn to climb first then get stronger. I'm still firmly in Phase One.

I agree that's why I said experienced climbers.

[Dr T]

driving to the gym and down campusing for broken elbows.....   

[Nibile]

Yes, that's terrible indeed. It has all the cliches: rearview mirror, bag in the boot, open the door and get out, lots of advertising, etc etc.
Plus, and this is unforgiveable to me, some very very average campusing.

[iwasmexican]

Yes, that's terrible indeed. It has all the cliches: rearview mirror, bag in the boot, open the door and get out, lots of advertising, etc etc.
Plus, and this is unforgiveable to me, some very very average campusing.

its all on the big rungs for christ sake

[Nibile]

Anyway, I disagree with the idea of campusing or fingerboarding after a one hour long bouldering warm up. I think that it's far too much for a warm up, and pretty useless also.
From what I know, it's best to tailor the warm up on the specific session, so no need for bouldering if then you don't boulder.
One other thing is, for instance, doing some 30 moves circuits for increasing pulse, blood flow and temperature. But 30 moves circuits are something that I can barely conceive, let alone do...

[Palomides]

This just popped up on Youtubes recommendations for me.

For me this highlights two things that I didn't realise:
  The original Campus board appears to be two-sided
  Youtube knows me a bit too well.

[J_duds]

A few years old now, and the music is older!
The training doesn't start until 3mins into the vid, but the stair scene is ace.
Also contains driving to the wall.

[Muenchener]

Love the secret bat cave inside the leading wall

[biscuit]

Apologies if it's been posted before:



Wish i had a garage like that !

[biscuit]

No idea why it's come up twice 

[krymson]

Feels weird disputing someone who probably climbs way harder than mel but  im fairly certain this video shows exactly how NOT to deadhang.

Totally hanging off your skeleton like that is a good way to f up your shoulders. I'm guessing he's doing it because he's hanging ridiculuous weight

more info here: http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Hangboard-101.jpg

The shoulders should be engaged, and the elbows slightly as well.

[crimp]

Even more worrying dead hangs and pull ups

[Nibile]

I'm guessing he's doing it because he's hanging ridiculuous weight

That's not much I think, and so it's even worse.
Shoulders and elbows must be engaged.

[a dense loner]

The most weight he hangs is 20kgs, this is nothing. It's known in the trade as a Bennett

[krymson]

my bad, didnt really pay attention to the numbers on the plates, just figured since his shoulders were all hunched he was pullin somethin massive.
well i guess he's just plain old-fashioned ignorant.

To make up for my sins heres a fresh video from Ms Coxsey

[scottygillery]

"To strengthen fingers you can do pull-ups on a finger board, for power endurance you can do more......"




Revelatory.

[Stubbs]

"To strengthen fingers you can do pull-ups on a finger board, for power endurance you can do more......"




Revelatory.

Not rocket science, but there's a lot of people out there who could improve their climbing grade just by doing this.