Author Topic: Training for climbing videos  (Read 55284 times)

Offline B-Bird

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #50 on: March 28, 2013, 11:25:09 am »



Offline Fiend

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #51 on: March 28, 2013, 11:56:10 am »
You know that's exactly the vibe I'm getting from you Oli  :)
Contact me about climbing on email / txt / facebook if needed.

Offline jwi

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #52 on: March 31, 2013, 07:11:28 pm »

Sweat is weakness leaving the body
See Alex Megos train and listen to german dude explaining the benefits of being systematic.
Psyche!

Offline jwi

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #53 on: March 31, 2013, 07:59:37 pm »
^
Tripple-post   :guilty: :slap: :oops:

Offline Nibile

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #54 on: April 09, 2013, 11:54:43 am »
They should stop making videos featuring very young climbers like him o Ashima doing campusing.
We all know it can be very dangerous before full bone developement.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline cheque

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #55 on: April 09, 2013, 07:17:58 pm »
They should stop making videos featuring very young climbers like him o Ashima doing campusing.
We all know it can be very dangerous before full bone developement.

When there's a semi-naked bald man coaching them it just looks wrong too.

That pegboard thing is mental- a good tool for the youngster transitioning between this and the campus board I'd imagine.  ;)

Offline climbspray

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #56 on: April 24, 2013, 05:36:11 pm »



Offline cheque

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #57 on: April 28, 2013, 10:30:45 pm »



Offline krymson

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #58 on: April 29, 2013, 08:12:38 am »
Great Videos, but I gotta nitpick about the terminology

Both videos are about endurance training(one for long routes, one for short but hard routes,) not Stamina, which is generally thought of as the ability to recover quickly from a climb.

Increased Stamina lets you get in more routes in a day, more problems in a session. More ("power")Endurance lets you climb longer, harder routes.

Offline jwi

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #59 on: April 29, 2013, 10:53:41 am »
They should stop making videos featuring very young climbers like him o Ashima doing campusing.
We all know it can be very dangerous before full bone developement.

Megos is like 19 years old. His coach seems to works quite a lot with Volket Schoeffl, without knowing I'm guessing Megos did very little campusing when he was a kid. (Megos coach wrote a great article for IX+/X-.nu)

Offline davej

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #60 on: April 29, 2013, 11:56:06 am »
 
hi any chance of a link for the article by Megos's coach tried a web search and can't find it  thanks

Offline jwi

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #61 on: April 29, 2013, 01:05:59 pm »
Like Voldemort, JL has a taboo curse so his website cannot be mentioned. But it is on that webpage where scorecards, bravery and humbleness flourish. Click here

Offline davej

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #62 on: April 29, 2013, 01:11:13 pm »
thanks

Offline gcarmichael

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #63 on: May 20, 2013, 12:10:28 pm »


 :jaw:

Offline 205Chris

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #64 on: May 20, 2013, 05:31:13 pm »


I think the key question here is "Is yellow roof problem harder than Hubble problem (with a start and finish)"

Offline Nibile

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #65 on: May 20, 2013, 05:58:03 pm »


I think the key question here is "Is yellow roof problem harder than Hubble problem (with a start and finish)"
Don't be silly.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline Sasquatch

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #66 on: May 20, 2013, 06:04:37 pm »
Seeing him do 1-9 made me realize just how tall he is and how long his arms are  :jaw: 

Talk about sweet monkey arms - I'm jealous.  His left hand is just a little above his waist when he hits 9, mine is at full extension to do the same.  He's got at least 16-18 inches of reach on me in just his arms.  That's insane.  I mean I know I'm not tall, but I'm not short either..... 

Offline benpritch

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #67 on: May 20, 2013, 07:13:20 pm »
Seeing him do 1-9 made me realize just how tall he is and how long his arms are  :jaw: 

Talk about sweet monkey arms - I'm jealous.  His left hand is just a little above his waist when he hits 9, mine is at full extension to do the same.  He's got at least 16-18 inches of reach on me in just his arms.  That's insane.  I mean I know I'm not tall, but I'm not short either.....

you can do 1-9?

Offline Sasquatch

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #68 on: May 20, 2013, 07:15:34 pm »
Hell no!!!   but if I hang from 9, I can reach down to 1 with my other hand :)

Offline abarro81

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #69 on: May 20, 2013, 08:03:15 pm »
So the main thing you took from that video is to do with his reach? Right...

Offline Sasquatch

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #70 on: May 20, 2013, 08:24:07 pm »
Of course not, but he goes on about the pros/cons of his height.  And then I see that, and think holy F^&*(ing hell that move is insanely huge.  Then I thought about my reach, and then I thought about his discussion about his feet cutting and just training foot off since they always came off anyways, which when related to his height/length, makes alot of sense.  Then I thought about the fact I should actually do more campus bouldering as my biggest weakness is that dynamic multi directional power.  Then I thought again-holy F&*#  his reach is crazy and I'm totally jealous.  Then I thought about the fact that he is that tall and can do those crazy front levers, then I quit thinking about it becasue I was overwhelmed, and could only mutter incoherently about his insane reach.........

Offline iwasmexican

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #71 on: May 21, 2013, 12:39:44 am »


I think the key question here is "Is yellow roof problem harder than Hubble problem (with a start and finish)"

that took malc five years to do twice.

malc.

five years.

Offline rodma

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Re: Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #72 on: May 21, 2013, 07:00:30 am »
Seeing him do 1-9 made me realize just how tall he is and how long his arms are  :jaw: 

Talk about sweet monkey arms - I'm jealous.  His left hand is just a little above his waist when he hits 9, mine is at full extension to do the same.  He's got at least 16-18 inches of reach on me in just his arms.  That's insane.  I mean I know I'm not tall, but I'm not short either.....

Is he that tall, or is the rung spacing different?

Total beast, makes me want to do some proper training.


Online tomtom

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #73 on: May 21, 2013, 07:07:40 am »
Then I thought about the fact that he is that tall and can do those crazy front levers, then I quit thinking about it becasue I was overwhelmed, and could only mutter incoherently about his insane reach.........

That is amazing... I'm 6 3, with an inch or two +ve ape index and anything involving pull ups, dynamic pull ups, lock offs (attempted) is really hard. I pull the long levers excuse.

Which is now redundant..

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #74 on: May 21, 2013, 08:09:20 am »
Great little training vid
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?