Author Topic: Training for climbing videos  (Read 55283 times)

Offline cjsheps

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #225 on: January 25, 2015, 03:56:37 pm »
The point about the supportive structure of tendons, pulleys etc making adaptions at moderate loads is an interesting one. I haven't heard this anywhere else, so perhaps some additional opinions from those in the know could shed some light on this. Perhaps it could be worth a post in the Physio Clinic thread.
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Offline krymson

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #226 on: January 26, 2015, 03:12:06 am »
It makes sense in some ways.

For the first half of this year I climbed pretty much nothing but trad and moderate sport. When my trad partner left the country i got back into challenging sport and I found while my bouldering power decreased,  I could rest off crimps that a year ago id be pumping out on -- and i was no longer getting pulley strains every time i crimped hard.

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #227 on: January 31, 2015, 12:53:41 pm »
I'm not sure that true climbing can be used as a reference respect this aspect. By climbing lots you surely have improved your technique and smoothness, along with stamina, so this had surely an impact on your ability to put less effort on the fingers and get less pumped.
I know that the body responds to stimulus, so it will adapt proportionally to the stimulus we give. I don't see why moderate loads will produce the same adaption as high loads. He should motivate and clarify.
Tendons, capsulae, etc, being less vascularized take more to adapt than muscles, so a very strong muscle could cause problems to a yet not enough adapted tendon, but again I can't see the reason to what he says.
Moderate training is going to give you moderate gains.

Another aspect, is about what I read on T-Nation (yes, I read it a lot) about not training "on the nerve" too often.
The high nervous stress caused by training at the limit takes longer to recover, so it's good to train also sub-max.
Will try to search for some more info.

Briefly put, that videos are a doctor's point of view. They are over cautious obviously and aimed at avoiding injuries. This detracts from a pure sports performance advice.
Just my opinion.
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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #228 on: January 31, 2015, 12:56:42 pm »
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline ghisino

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #229 on: February 01, 2015, 08:20:59 pm »
I don't see why moderate loads will produce the same adaption as high loads. He ghisino should motivate and clarify.

here i am  ;D

his point is that low intensity/high volume stimulates tendinous structures more than muscles' max strenght.
So sessions or cycles of low/high should avoid the problem you mentioned (muscle stronger than tendon) and make high/low sessions possible.

improved injury prevention is indeed one of the expected benefits of volume intensive phases in the beginning of a traning calendar.

I don't know which scientific studies, if any, support this rather widespread wisdom.

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #230 on: March 06, 2015, 10:26:49 am »
I've made four small videos about one-footed bouldering, if anyone is interested. I'll link here just the first one.
HTH.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

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Offline blamo

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #231 on: March 06, 2015, 01:39:13 pm »
Very nice videos.   :clap2:

Any thoughts on how working on one footed climbing crosses over to improvements in strength or technique?

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #232 on: March 06, 2015, 05:11:00 pm »
As I wrote in the description of the first video, climbing using just one foot requires different movement patterns and body positioning, plus every placement requires a footless move so you need to be quick and precise, and the footless bit works your arms, fingers and core. I always try not to swing out.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

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Offline ghisino

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #233 on: May 20, 2015, 12:38:18 pm »
"The crucial holds were precisely reconstructed by wood to replicate the geometry and glossy texture."


Offline Ian T

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #234 on: May 20, 2015, 03:36:06 pm »
Looks good, should get it next go.

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #235 on: May 20, 2015, 11:43:55 pm »
Strong hairstyle ŗ la Fred Nicole.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #236 on: May 28, 2015, 02:18:02 pm »
Great little vid from Barrows which goes over some of the endurance stuff from the podcast, but in a little more detail

Offline Schnell

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #237 on: July 15, 2015, 08:22:25 pm »
Not a video of training per se but close enough:




Offline KH

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #238 on: January 25, 2016, 12:56:48 am »


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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #239 on: January 26, 2016, 09:07:58 am »
Very clear, and no doubt very useful for people who train at odd times and/or own their own climbing walls. Iím not sure how I would go about putting it into practice at a public wall on a weekday evenng.

Also, Iím not sure if there actually is such a thing as a circuit six grades below my onsight level.
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Offline ghisino

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #240 on: January 26, 2016, 10:12:36 am »
six grades obviously means six "+"?

like, if you onsight 7a, six grades lower will be 6a.

Otherwise 6a will be good for someone onsighting 8a, which seems a bit too much no matter how low-intensity you want it to be...

Offline jwi

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #241 on: January 26, 2016, 10:45:17 am »
Very clear, and no doubt very useful for people who train at odd times and/or own their own climbing walls. Iím not sure how I would go about putting it into practice at a public wall on a weekday evenng.


This is a very good point. I used to train continuous climbing and long strength endurance on rope in the gym, and it usually works if you do it with someone else and is totally oblivious to social codes and cues. Short strength endurance, on the other hand, is extraordinary difficult to train indoors except on very odd times.

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #242 on: January 26, 2016, 11:36:23 am »
One of my local walls has a big outdoor routes area where (almost) nobody goes in winter. I sometimes go out there and ARC up and down starts of routes. Itís ok if itís dry-cold and I remember to pack a fat belay jacket for the rests. If itís cold and at all damp, though, then itís a good opportunity to train tolerance for screaming barfies and I usually give up quickly.
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Offline slackline

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #243 on: April 25, 2016, 02:59:38 pm »
"Pedant" is what somebody who is wrong calls somebody who is correct - Anon

Offline jwi

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #244 on: August 09, 2017, 01:05:01 pm »
Magnus MidtbÝ's vlog is getting better and better as he's getting more and more used to being on camera. Right now he's doing a hard training week


Offline Clart

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Re: Training for climbing videos
« Reply #245 on: August 10, 2017, 07:19:38 am »
Love the Moffatt montage at the beginning of the Kraft Talk vid, class!

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