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Training for climbing videos (Read 56678 times)

cjsheps

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#225 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 25, 2015, 03:56:37 pm
The point about the supportive structure of tendons, pulleys etc making adaptions at moderate loads is an interesting one. I haven't heard this anywhere else, so perhaps some additional opinions from those in the know could shed some light on this. Perhaps it could be worth a post in the Physio Clinic thread.

krymson

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#226 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 26, 2015, 03:12:06 am
It makes sense in some ways.

For the first half of this year I climbed pretty much nothing but trad and moderate sport. When my trad partner left the country i got back into challenging sport and I found while my bouldering power decreased,  I could rest off crimps that a year ago id be pumping out on -- and i was no longer getting pulley strains every time i crimped hard.

Nibile

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#227 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 31, 2015, 12:53:41 pm
I'm not sure that true climbing can be used as a reference respect this aspect. By climbing lots you surely have improved your technique and smoothness, along with stamina, so this had surely an impact on your ability to put less effort on the fingers and get less pumped.
I know that the body responds to stimulus, so it will adapt proportionally to the stimulus we give. I don't see why moderate loads will produce the same adaption as high loads. He should motivate and clarify.
Tendons, capsulae, etc, being less vascularized take more to adapt than muscles, so a very strong muscle could cause problems to a yet not enough adapted tendon, but again I can't see the reason to what he says.
Moderate training is going to give you moderate gains.

Another aspect, is about what I read on T-Nation (yes, I read it a lot) about not training "on the nerve" too often.
The high nervous stress caused by training at the limit takes longer to recover, so it's good to train also sub-max.
Will try to search for some more info.

Briefly put, that videos are a doctor's point of view. They are over cautious obviously and aimed at avoiding injuries. This detracts from a pure sports performance advice.
Just my opinion.

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ghisino

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#229 Re: Training for climbing videos
February 01, 2015, 08:20:59 pm
I don't see why moderate loads will produce the same adaption as high loads. He ghisino should motivate and clarify.

here i am  ;D

his point is that low intensity/high volume stimulates tendinous structures more than muscles' max strenght.
So sessions or cycles of low/high should avoid the problem you mentioned (muscle stronger than tendon) and make high/low sessions possible.

improved injury prevention is indeed one of the expected benefits of volume intensive phases in the beginning of a traning calendar.

I don't know which scientific studies, if any, support this rather widespread wisdom.

Nibile

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#230 Re: Training for climbing videos
March 06, 2015, 10:26:49 am
I've made four small videos about one-footed bouldering, if anyone is interested. I'll link here just the first one.
HTH.

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#231 Re: Training for climbing videos
March 06, 2015, 01:39:13 pm
Very nice videos.   :clap2:

Any thoughts on how working on one footed climbing crosses over to improvements in strength or technique?

Nibile

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#232 Re: Training for climbing videos
March 06, 2015, 05:11:00 pm
As I wrote in the description of the first video, climbing using just one foot requires different movement patterns and body positioning, plus every placement requires a footless move so you need to be quick and precise, and the footless bit works your arms, fingers and core. I always try not to swing out.

ghisino

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#233 Re: Training for climbing videos
May 20, 2015, 12:38:18 pm
"The crucial holds were precisely reconstructed by wood to replicate the geometry and glossy texture."


Ian T

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#234 Re: Training for climbing videos
May 20, 2015, 03:36:06 pm
Looks good, should get it next go.

Nibile

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#235 Re: Training for climbing videos
May 20, 2015, 11:43:55 pm
Strong hairstyle ŗ la Fred Nicole.

Stubbs

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#236 Re: Training for climbing videos
May 28, 2015, 02:18:02 pm
Great little vid from Barrows which goes over some of the endurance stuff from the podcast, but in a little more detail

Schnell

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#237 Re: Training for climbing videos
July 15, 2015, 08:22:25 pm
Not a video of training per se but close enough:




KH

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#238 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 25, 2016, 12:56:48 am


Muenchener

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#239 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 26, 2016, 09:07:58 am
Very clear, and no doubt very useful for people who train at odd times and/or own their own climbing walls. Iím not sure how I would go about putting it into practice at a public wall on a weekday evenng.

Also, Iím not sure if there actually is such a thing as a circuit six grades below my onsight level.

ghisino

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#240 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 26, 2016, 10:12:36 am
six grades obviously means six "+"?

like, if you onsight 7a, six grades lower will be 6a.

Otherwise 6a will be good for someone onsighting 8a, which seems a bit too much no matter how low-intensity you want it to be...

jwi

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#241 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 26, 2016, 10:45:17 am
Very clear, and no doubt very useful for people who train at odd times and/or own their own climbing walls. Iím not sure how I would go about putting it into practice at a public wall on a weekday evenng.


This is a very good point. I used to train continuous climbing and long strength endurance on rope in the gym, and it usually works if you do it with someone else and is totally oblivious to social codes and cues. Short strength endurance, on the other hand, is extraordinary difficult to train indoors except on very odd times.

Muenchener

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#242 Re: Training for climbing videos
January 26, 2016, 11:36:23 am
One of my local walls has a big outdoor routes area where (almost) nobody goes in winter. I sometimes go out there and ARC up and down starts of routes. Itís ok if itís dry-cold and I remember to pack a fat belay jacket for the rests. If itís cold and at all damp, though, then itís a good opportunity to train tolerance for screaming barfies and I usually give up quickly.

slackline

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#243 Re: Training for climbing videos
April 25, 2016, 02:59:38 pm

jwi

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#244 Re: Training for climbing videos
August 09, 2017, 01:05:01 pm
Magnus MidtbÝ's vlog is getting better and better as he's getting more and more used to being on camera. Right now he's doing a hard training week


Clart

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#245 Re: Training for climbing videos
August 10, 2017, 07:19:38 am
Love the Moffatt montage at the beginning of the Kraft Talk vid, class!

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