[bendavison]

Not really a training vid but still... http://instagram.com/p/x6nVkUPnHY/

[gme]

Loving the LED thing. Talked about this idea years ago, great to see some one do it.
How much did it cost him and how does it work.

[erm, sam]

I have garage envy.

[a dense loner]

Moon board looks great Sasquatch 

[mrjonathanr]

Climbing by moonlight. Cool!

[Sasquatch]

Loving the LED thing. Talked about this idea years ago, great to see some one do it.
How much did it cost him and how does it work.

Time - alot
US$ - about 150

It works increbably well, although the next step is to be able to program the input pad so that we can just enter a grade and it will randomly select a problem at that grade

[Muenchener]

the next step is to be able to program the input pad so that we can just enter a grade and it will randomly select a problem at that grade

From the up to date online database, I hope?

[Muenchener]

Salve Tutti. Here's an Italian orthopaedic surgeon talking about the risks of campus boarding and how to reduce them:



Had a quick click through his website via google translate, but decided I did not want to read the articles about rope burns, the perils of climbing with wedding rings or why not to grab bolts. There might be pictures 

[nathanie1]

Salve Tutti. Here's an Italian orthopaedic surgeon talking....

That video was very useful, thanks for sharing

[Murph]

Muenchener - thanks for posting. The bit at the end about moderate intensity for strengthening ligaments etc. was news to me. Cheers.

[tomtom]

Yes - nice info about intensity and angle of holds...

[Nibile]

Another video about fingerboarding.
I'm sure it will raise more than an eyebrow.

[Muenchener]

Do you know the guy Nibs?

There's nice quote from (I think) one of the Anderson brothers (Rockprodigy, Rock Climber's Training Manual), something like “training is about going as close to injury as possible without actually getting injured”. I suspect amibitous climbers err more on the side of “as close as possible …”, whereas a doctor might focus more on the “without” part.

[gme]

He points out the usual thing about not training in a crimped position on a fingerboard. This seems to be the general consensus but i have started doing some(not all) of my hangs in a crimped position as this is by far the weakest link in my climbing (fingers wise anyway).

I have always been much better open handed than crimped to the point where I hardly ever crimp a hold and cant hold things crimped that i can easily hold open handed. i am convinced this must be a muscular thing and therefore i need to train it by crimping as doing things half crimped or open just does not work as i just get stronger in those positions.

Has anyone else done this?

[Johnny Brown]

Bransby is the same, he seems to get along fine by just open handing everything.

[Nibile]

No, I don't know him, I only frequent handsome people.  (Sorry couldn't resist...)

Of course his advice is on the very very cautious side, but I strongly disagree with a couple of things that he says about fingerboarding. He posted that video on Planetmountain's forum, and a guy asked him about the dangers of never training the full crimp prehension.
He never replied, and I found it pretty unfair: once you post something on a forum, the least you can do is to reply to questions, especially if it's your profession.
Anyway, his advice of always training openhanded is, in my humble and non professional opinion, wrong.
First, because when you pull openhanded (using only the catch of the pulp on the edge of the hold), the finger is already completely stretched and the pulleys aren't engaged, so the risk of injury is very high, because as long as the skin catches, you can keep pulling beyond the tendon's strength. It's as if you had a finger stuck in a hole and you dangle from it: no joints angles, no pulleys engagement, but you'll rip the tendon.
On the other hand, when half or fully crimped, when you reach the limit the finger opens up and you are forced to let go.

Second, not training the crimp will not strengthen the pulleys and the joints. So, you put yourself at the risk of injury the very first time that you have to crimp.
I think that, in fact, the best environment to train the full crimp is precisely the fingerboard, on which you can slowly put pressure on the fingers, choose an even hold, etc.

[jwi]

I have always been much better open handed than crimped to the point where I hardly ever crimp a hold and cant hold things crimped that i can easily hold open handed. i am convinced this must be a muscular thing and therefore i need to train it by crimping as doing things half crimped or open just does not work as i just get stronger in those positions.

Has anyone else done this?

I'm also much stronger open handed than in half- or full-crimp. I have worked on-and-off for 2 years on getting my half-crimp and full-crimp up to par, but I can still take much more weight on a medium-sized edge in the open hand position.

[bendavison]

I think that, in fact, the best environment to train the full crimp is precisely the fingerboard, on which you can slowly put pressure on the fingers, choose an even hold, etc.

  if you're gonna train crimp anywhere I reckon the fb is the place to do it. Nice and controlled, no glory for completing it (well, you probably disagree with that, Nibs), and no sudden loading.

[ghisino]

the second part will raise even more eyebrows...


i find, though, that his very cautious advice is generally good for those who are relatively new to climbing and fingerbparding/campus, which in some venues are the majority of campus and fingerboard users!!!
(really: in one gym next to paris for instance, the average campus boarder is at best barely able to do 1-3-5 on closer-than-standard jug rungs, always unable to do 1-2-3 on standard 1.5 pad rungs, and does so with horrible form and very poor coordination)

also : nibs, the priority for most of them is learning that the open-hand and half crimp grips exists, and generally speaking how to properly put their fingers around the holds. Teaching beginners i see a lot of "natural born squeezers/crimpers" and very few natural "wide-pinchers" and open-handers.

it is also not true, imho, that open-handing always puts zero stress on the pulleys and as a result doesn't reinforce (nor damage) them. I know people who completed a partial pulley tear while pulling a two finger pocket...

i agree that controlled crimping on a fingerboard is a good idea, but mostly for the advanced group: those who already have a fair amount of training experience, who open-hand whenever possible, and need to be ready for the occasional nasty crimp.

the videos above seem clearly not aimed at this group.

what i do not like is how some things are left untold.
In the last bit there is an interesting discussion about strenghtening muscle vs other tissues. But instead of suggesting that one should not attempt high intensity/low volume without a proper low intensity/high volume base, we are left with the impression that any proper strenght training is plain stupidity and a sure path to injury.

[Nibile]

 
I will rename the videos "Training tips to become averagely weak".

[tomtom]

the second part will raise even more eyebrows...


i find, though, that his very cautious advice is generally good for those who are relatively new to climbing and fingerbparding/campus, which in some venues are the majority of campus and fingerboard users!!!
(really: in one gym next to paris for instance, the average campus boarder is at best barely able to do 1-3-5 on closer-than-standard jug rungs, always unable to do 1-2-3 on standard 1.5 pad rungs, and does so with horrible form and very poor coordination)

also : nibs, the priority for most of them is learning that the open-hand and half crimp grips exists, and generally speaking how to properly put their fingers around the holds. Teaching beginners i see a lot of "natural born squeezers/crimpers" and very few natural "wide-pinchers" and open-handers.

it is also not true, imho, that open-handing always puts zero stress on the pulleys and as a result doesn't reinforce (nor damage) them. I know people who completed a partial pulley tear while pulling a two finger pocket...

i agree that controlled crimping on a fingerboard is a good idea, but mostly for the advanced group: those who already have a fair amount of training experience, who open-hand whenever possible, and need to be ready for the occasional nasty crimp.

the videos above seem clearly not aimed at this group.

what i do not like is how some things are left untold.
In the last bit there is an interesting discussion about strenghtening muscle vs other tissues. But instead of suggesting that one should not attempt high intensity/low volume without a proper low intensity/high volume base, we are left with the impression that any proper strenght training is plain stupidity and a sure path to injury.

The bit I took home most from this video was about bending arms whilst deadhanging/campusing etc... I thought bent arms meant tensed and not completely straight - obviously 10-15 degrees is quite a bit different. I also found it interesting how hitting a hold bent armed (especially dynamically) meant you were far more in control - and this should be something to aim for... makes complete sense to me - but had somehow slipped past me in all the years (though Lagers always told me off for not bending my arms enough..)

[JonB]

The take home point of these videos for me is that Pan Gullich is a cool term for campus board.

[cjsheps]

The point about the supportive structure of tendons, pulleys etc making adaptions at moderate loads is an interesting one. I haven't heard this anywhere else, so perhaps some additional opinions from those in the know could shed some light on this. Perhaps it could be worth a post in the Physio Clinic thread.

[krymson]

It makes sense in some ways.

For the first half of this year I climbed pretty much nothing but trad and moderate sport. When my trad partner left the country i got back into challenging sport and I found while my bouldering power decreased,  I could rest off crimps that a year ago id be pumping out on -- and i was no longer getting pulley strains every time i crimped hard.

[Nibile]

I'm not sure that true climbing can be used as a reference respect this aspect. By climbing lots you surely have improved your technique and smoothness, along with stamina, so this had surely an impact on your ability to put less effort on the fingers and get less pumped.
I know that the body responds to stimulus, so it will adapt proportionally to the stimulus we give. I don't see why moderate loads will produce the same adaption as high loads. He should motivate and clarify.
Tendons, capsulae, etc, being less vascularized take more to adapt than muscles, so a very strong muscle could cause problems to a yet not enough adapted tendon, but again I can't see the reason to what he says.
Moderate training is going to give you moderate gains.

Another aspect, is about what I read on T-Nation (yes, I read it a lot) about not training "on the nerve" too often.
The high nervous stress caused by training at the limit takes longer to recover, so it's good to train also sub-max.
Will try to search for some more info.

Briefly put, that videos are a doctor's point of view. They are over cautious obviously and aimed at avoiding injuries. This detracts from a pure sports performance advice.
Just my opinion.