[masonwoods101]

http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877

[Dr T]

http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877

and part the second....

[masonwoods101]

Didn't think it was much different... Oh well...  Pretty much longwindedly covers Malcolm smiths pro tips on climbing on the board front on and open...

[abarro81]

I have to say, I disagree with the bit in the first video about avoiding using good technique. Avoiding using good technique like drop knees when they're the easiest way to climb a move is just teaching yourself to be shit at climbing IMO. I see the point, but if you want a move to be basic then just set a move that can't be tricked - eliminate the foothold you can dropknee off or use all worse feet or whatever, don't just climb the move with a shit method and engrain that shit method into your climbing style.
EDIT: just actually watched it properly rather than listened to it whilst looking at something else. seems like they're more going with what I'm saying anyway...

[masonwoods101]

I have always climbed with drop knees, twists etc and have wondered if it has stopped me from getting stronger climbing open.... Never climb on 45's though to be honest

[krymson]

I have to say, I disagree with the bit in the first video about avoiding using good technique. Avoiding using good technique like drop knees when they're the easiest way to climb a move is just teaching yourself to be shit at climbing IMO. I see the point, but if you want a move to be basic then just set a move that can't be tricked - eliminate the foothold you can dropknee off or use all worse feet or whatever, don't just climb the move with a shit method and engrain that shit method into your climbing style.
EDIT: just actually watched it properly rather than listened to it whilst looking at something else. seems like they're more going with what I'm saying anyway...

Since indoor footholds are a bit blobby you're able to do more egyptianing even on tiny feet than outside , so it makes sense that if you are training for the outdoors  rather than sending on plastic, the stuff pointed out in the video could be a way to train that kind of strength and technique.

[jwi]

Since indoor footholds are a bit blobby you're able to do more egyptianing even on tiny feet than outside , so it makes sense that if you are training for the outdoors  rather than sending on plastic, the stuff pointed out in the video could be a way to train that kind of strength and technique.

When did you last see someone do a drop knee on a hard indoor bouldering problem? Most indoor problems are long pulls on gigantic (relative to outdoors) holds. Dropping the knee limits the reach so just about the only time I see people do this indoor are on stamina circuits or on the lead wall.

Enjoy the drop knees while they last before the knees get fucked with old age (but I am not bitter...  )

[rginns]

http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877

Great vid 

[Beegsyboy]

When did you last see someone do a drop knee on a hard indoor bouldering problem? Most indoor problems are long pulls on gigantic (relative to outdoors) holds. Dropping the knee limits the reach so just about the only time I see people do this indoor are on stamina circuits or on the lead wall.

Er, loads of times. Also a drop knee does not limit the reach, it all depends where the foot holds are. Using a drop knee on a high foothold can increase reach over using the foothold 'normally'.

[andy_e]

I used to use drop-knees all the time indoors (my current local wall doesn't ever set problems which require them). They pull your body closer in to the wall, giving you a much longer static reach as it makes locking down on holds a load easier. They're also great fun!

[Nibile]

I genuinely think that drop knees, heel hooks, toe hooks, bicycles and the likes are a recipe for weakness. I don't want to offen anyone though: I always heel hook, toe hook, etc, OUTSIDE, when I want to climb something. If I'm indoors, I don't care to "send", I care to fail, otherwise it's useless.
That's how I set my board: you can't do any of those tricks that help you climb a problem.
I don't think that by doing this way one learns bad technique. I find heel hooking, etc, pretty natural when I'm on rock.
I can't drop knee for shit, though. But I've never failed on a problem because I could not drop knee.

So, for me there is a big distinction between: being on rock, when I want to complete a problem (anything goes, technique wise); being on plastic having fun with friends, or in a rare competition (anything goes); being on plastic training (no tricks, I'm there to fall off). 

[abarro81]

That's how I set my board: you can't do any of those tricks that help you climb a problem.

Possibly some crossed wires here. That's what I'm saying is good if you want to eliminate 'tricks' - setting up your board so that they can't be used (e.g. all the footholds are too shit or don't point sideways at all) or setting particular moves where the basic method is the only method. The thing I think is shit training is if you can do a move easily with, say, a drop knee, but you decide not to use it even though you're using the same footholds which allow you to do it that way. Thus teaching yourself to climb that style of move with shit technique, so when you encounter it outdoors your response - consciously and from muscle memory - will be to use that method. Probably less of an issue for boulderers unless you're well into flashing stuff, but knowing instinctively when to drop your knee or bust out a heel is pretty damn useful for onsighting and doing routes quickly.

[Nibile]

unless you're well into flashing stuff, but knowing instinctively when to drop your knee or bust out a heel is pretty damn useful for onsighting and doing routes quickly.

That's what I was going to say, luckily I re-read your post.
I think that it's important to know what you're doing and why you're doing it.
Also, bouldering and power endurance routes are very different. You can probably miss a toehook and still climb a boulder problem, but if you miss it on a long route, you could just fall three moves later.

[SEDur]

While I don't deny that campusing and open style training is very important...

I have noticed that the only training video i have seen so far with an almost acceptable warm-up, belonged to the Spanish climber.

Rant:

NSFW  :

Coincidently; Ms Coxsey and Mr  Web-Parsons have been known to have reasonable lay-offs caused by finger injuries.
Finger injuries are so damn common these days, and yet the topic is missed from these videos.
If I had a dime for every 'beast' I have seen, whimpering about from damaged pulleys...
The funny side being that these are the people who will come here and say 'blah, its not necessary. I just turn up and campus everything'. In effect, if you warm-up like the moron in the asana video, that is a great way to bust your tendons.
Also, Paxti said in one interview 'i don;t do anything special to warm up'. It is not impossible to connect this to the re-occurring neck injury that made him quit competition climbing.

Just to play devils advocate; can you please show me someone who can climb harder than Font8A, that has never used a drop-knee or the like... I am pretty sure if you stalk whatever pro climber while they train on a board, at some point they will use technique.

NSFW  :

Also, considering if you watch videos by all of these athletes; they use the moves you are on about avoiding on their training boards.
Dave Macleod's home-board video for example. If you can show me a hero who can climb harder then Macleod while only ever climbing strait on, I will retract this statement.

Malcolm smith uses three drop-knees on his 'hubble with a start and a finish', from the splinter video. The whole point of that problem is training for hubble...

Plus, these people have been crushing in the 8s for years...

As I see it; it is all well and good being a powerful climber, but if you have not the technique to apply the power to then you will be as shit as the next plastic swinger. If you don't train technique with power, you will never use it properly and will fail with or without muscle. Hire one of these guys (or ladies) for a day, and I am pretty sure you will get shown that your technique is failing you (not your shoulder strength). I am also sure that any pro will tell you that training purely strength is a good way to get injured, if you aren't conditioned for such training. Lest we forget periodisation, you simply cannot do the same as this training forever.

[SEDur]

The macleod on his home board video:

[SEDur]

Also, don't forget the training boss Patxi:

[krymson]

It doesn't have to be all or nothing. why not just do this training once a week?

Just like you would do a bit of fingerboard, campusing or core training in addition to the main diet of climbing lots, you could do "open" training once a week and gain the benefits without programming yourself to climb like a chump.

I did it this week and it is an immense core workout and great for learning dynamic movement on steep stuff so i dont think it can be dismissed.

Because i was specifically training open and not milking the footholds, I was able to do it even when holds were in a less-than-optimal setup at the gym. Not everyone has a homeboard they can tweak to make the exact problems they want.

[Stubbs]

Coincidently; Ms Coxsey and Mr  Web-Parsons have been known to have reasonable lay-offs caused by finger injuries.

There is a lot that could be picked apart in your post, but I'll start with this one.  Top climbers get injured as all top athletes do. Even the grand high lord of technique MacLeod has had a lot of injuries including fingers.

All these good climbers warm up, Shauna even did a video for Adidas just about warming up.

[abarro81]

I have noticed that the only training video i have seen so far with an almost acceptable warm-up, belonged to the Spanish climber.


Also, Paxti said in one interview 'i don;t do anything special to warm up'.

That's because warming up would be bloody dull to watch on a training video! I think Patxi probably meant that he just warmed up normally like everyone else, not that he doesn't warm up; that would be my reading of it anyway.

[Fiend]

Apologies if it's been posted before:



Wish i had a garage like that !

Wow, those Eva Lopez edges look spectacularly horrible. Great sales pitch for not touching those boards with a very long clipstick.

[Fiend]

http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877

Music was the best thing about that video. Needs a perkier narrator and better timing coordinating the narration to the demonstration. I do like the tip of "training not sending", though.

[highrepute]

[Clart]

Is Shauna climbing footless in that vid because adidas don't make climbing shoes yet?

[krymson]

 
adias owns five ten these days

By the way, i saw actual adidas climbing shoes yesterday.


They looked cool as hell too -- like minimalistic trainers, black/gray colorway, laceups of course, with the 3 stripe logo. The girl wearing them said her aunt gave them to her so I'm not sure what the full story is there.

[SEDur]

Old news, but adidas have foreyed into climbing shoes a few times:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=37489