[El Mocho]

Caff has only gone and done the Meltdown, talk of 8c+ from the crimper himself but heard possibly harder from others (I failed to get to the second bolt!)

He got pretty close last year and then in typicall Caff manner was very driven to get it done before his yosemite trip later this year.

Good effort crimping fist...

[andy popp]

Bloody hell!

[Wood FT]

Amazing effort! Big news, Well done Caff. Spoke to a certain slatesman of short stature a week or so ago who was complaining that modern climbers are still using holds and should be moving on to climbing on nothing, this must be as close as you're gunna get. 

[Andy F]

   Caff.
Was This the original Dawes line? Heard it had fallen down 

[El Mocho]

  Caff.
Was This the original Dawes line? Heard it had fallen down 

Think a 'crucial' hold came off (an undercut?) I kinda remember JD talking about bolting a brass hold on to mimic the friction of the slate...

[Muenchener]

   Fsck me.

This surely must be close to the definitive answer to Fiend's World's Hardest Slabs thread?

[Kingy]

Massive congrats! Inspiring news since reading about dawes's efforts back in the nineties and the demise of a key hold

[Fiend]

Bloody hell!

 

Awesome, can hardly wait for full news details.

[Johnny Brown]

AMAZING!

[chummer]

Fucking brilliant!  Effort Caff

[cheque]

 

[Jaspersharpe]

BIG! 

[Doylo]

He'd allocated 30 days to try it before his trip so was shocked to get it so quick. Legend! 9a on limestone and slate, guys a heavyweight 

[nik at work]

WOW!! I've never seen the line but it is one of the classic projects of folklore, I also remember the talk of bolting on a brass replica of the lost hold (although from memory I seem to remember it was a clump of three holds for a hand swap sequence, yes I am that sad).

Anyway hero status duly conferred.

(this kind of buggers up my "weather's been to rubbish to do anything" track of thought though...)

[Gritlad]

(this kind of buggers up my "weather's been to rubbish to do anything" track of thought though...)

Weather was pretty humid and rainy in Llanberis today, didnt look like dervish slab was dry at all so theres no excuse for anyone now.......
Top effort Caff!

[Lopez]

A range of replica climbing holds from the route have already been released.

Available in several colours http://tinyurl.com/c4vnryv

[Doylo]

(this kind of buggers up my "weather's been to rubbish to do anything" track of thought though...)

Weather was pretty humid and rainy in Llanberis today, didnt look like dervish slab was dry at all so theres no excuse for anyone now.......
Top effort Caff!

It was like that when he did Big Bang, obviously can't operate in good conditions. I guess slate is one of the more reliable options in the UK right now..

[Andy F]

(this kind of buggers up my "weather's been to rubbish to do anything" track of thought though...)

Weather was pretty humid and rainy in Llanberis today, didnt look like dervish slab was dry at all so theres no excuse for anyone now.......
Top effort Caff!

Slate in 'sticky damp' shock 

[Tom de Gay]

Near-mythical project climbed – brilliant stuff.

(although from memory I seem to remember it was a clump of three holds for a hand swap sequence, yes I am that sad).

Vaguely recall the JD article saying the pitch had 'a sideways double dyno – the easiest move on the route', and that the speculative brass hold would look like a gangster's gold tooth.

[Grubes]

 

(this kind of buggers up my "weather's been to rubbish to do anything" track of thought though...)

Proves we were both talking bollocks about the weather, last night

[Pantontino]

Amazing effort, especially given how manky the weather was here yesterday.

Half expected him to turn up at the Mill afterwards for some more training but he actually went to the pub instead for some well earned beer.

You can see the line in this topo:

http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/06/16/king-of-the-mezz-e7-6c-twll-mawr/

[SA Chris]

I'm so pleased this has got done. Any vid / pics or in typical Caff fashion did he not bother?

Isn't this the thing there was a pic of Dawes doing some wierd contortions on?

[nai]

Any vid / pics or in typical Caff fashion did he not bother?

There's pics and a write up on t'other channel

[stevej]

There's a clip at

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67243

[Wipey Why]