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Eva Lopez Training plans (Read 214983 times)

shark

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#425 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 04, 2013, 02:37:25 pm
Disclaimer. Anecdotal warm up trick.

I had been on a bit of a plateau with the 3x10sec weighted deadhangs. Last couple of sessions I have messed about at the end of the progressive warm-up doing one or two single 2/3 sec deadhang at 7.5kg higher than the target 3x10sec weight. Then had  a 10min+ rest before doing the 3 x 10 sec hangs and have just crushed my 3 x 10sec target. YYFY.

Suspect it might be just psychological in that the weight feels lighter but possibly physical in achieving better recruitment.     

ghisino

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#426 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 04, 2013, 09:19:37 pm
makes sense to me but not sure how to justify it.
the closest science i've heard about is that doing a brief maximal isometric effort has a direct impact on your performances on a related dynamic exercise a while later. (if i recall correctly)

anyway i anedoctically observed several times that a little bit of "short and intense" at the end of a warmup works a treat whatever you are doing later

Nibile

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#427 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 05, 2013, 08:44:19 am
Makes sense to me as well, but it doesn't always work.
Last tuesday I did a few max hangs on the small pinches on my system wall, they are super hard for me (what the hell did I have in my mind when I put them up?). When I moved over to the good pinches, I nearly repeated the whole sequence, that is made of ten moves matching on every rung (pinch) up to n. 6. I fell on 5. I have done the whole sequence only once in more than two years, as my first 8b problem indoors.
 :dance1:  ;) :wank:

As said, it's not math, though.

Nibile

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#428 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 16, 2013, 11:24:16 am
She must have followed my fingerboarding plan...  ;)
Amazing.

cha1n

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#429 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 27, 2014, 12:30:46 pm
I notice this has gone quiet for a while, do people still rate this technique?

I'm about to commit to actually training finger strength only for the first time ever you see. Can you use this method one-armed? I can't actually one-arm a small edge yet but I think that's mainly to do with shoulder weaknesses and not problems with finger strength.

shark

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#430 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 27, 2014, 01:09:53 pm
I notice this has gone quiet for a while, do people still rate this technique?

I'm about to commit to actually training finger strength only for the first time ever you see. Can you use this method one-armed? I can't actually one-arm a small edge yet but I think that's mainly to do with shoulder weaknesses and not problems with finger strength.

I'm not following a programme but still do weighted deadhangs but focused on being crimped rather than my preferred chisel/drag as there is a discrepancy of over 10kg to correct.

One armed introduces other factors which are likely to detract from the gains in finger strength.

rodma

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#431 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 27, 2014, 01:34:07 pm
I'm about to commit to actually training finger strength only for the first time ever you see. Can you use this method one-armed? I can't actually one-arm a small edge yet but I think that's mainly to do with shoulder weaknesses and not problems with finger strength.

Are you trying to build up to a 1-arm pull on a small edge? if so you have answered your own question (whetehr correctly or not is another matter entirely)

There are plenty of folk doing assisted one-armed hangs etc. on fingerboards in various grip types, don't really think there is any real need to attribute the half-crimp grip to being a "lopez" grip, or follow a "lopez protocol", just train it and see how you go.


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#432 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 27, 2014, 05:22:48 pm
I notice this has gone quiet for a while, do people still rate this technique?

I'm about to commit to actually training finger strength only for the first time ever you see. Can you use this method one-armed? I can't actually one-arm a small edge yet but I think that's mainly to do with shoulder weaknesses and not problems with finger strength.
Yes. Still doing it, still seeing slow but steady gains. 

Yes, you should be able to take the concept and do it one-armed. If you look at the CWP finger training video, that's basically what he's doing.  Just without a means of accurately measuring gains.  If you were to use a weight assisted pulley system instead of your other hand, then you could certainly do this. 

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#433 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 27, 2014, 05:25:11 pm
There are plenty of folk doing assisted one-armed hangs etc. on fingerboards in various grip types, don't really think there is any real need to attribute the half-crimp grip to being a "lopez" grip, or follow a "lopez protocol", just train it and see how you go.
I think of the "lopez" protocol as more being 5 x 10sec max hangs, where you are able to complete at least the first 3 hangs.  Not so much the prehension.  I'd also say if you're doing 1-arms, thats not really the lopez version anymore either.

rodma

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#434 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 27, 2014, 09:17:48 pm
There are plenty of folk doing assisted one-armed hangs etc. on fingerboards in various grip types, don't really think there is any real need to attribute the half-crimp grip to being a "lopez" grip, or follow a "lopez protocol", just train it and see how you go.
I think of the "lopez" protocol as more being 5 x 10sec max hangs, where you are able to complete at least the first 3 hangs.  Not so much the prehension.  I'd also say if you're doing 1-arms, thats not really the lopez version anymore either.
This is why I find the Lopez shizzle no different to anyone else's prescribed methods.

"hmm I like the number 10 and 10 is nice and easy to remember so let's say hangs of 10 second duration"

I'm certain that sticking to a preprescribed routine can make a difference to someone who isn't able to get enough out of their current training (I'm including even just climbing in that use of the word "training" ) and isn't able to decide or analyse what exercises and durations/repetitions etc they should perform.

Everyone on here trains differently, moves differently, pulls differently, rests differently, etc etc,  so whilst it may be comforting/encouraging to obtain anecdotal (at best) information on this type of training, just try it and give it beans ffs :)

cha1n

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#435 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 27, 2014, 10:44:48 pm
Are you trying to build up to a 1-arm pull on a small edge? if so you have answered your own question (whetehr correctly or not is another matter entirely)

No, not trying to build up to that. Just want to get my fingers stronger but I'm worried that if I do two handed hangs that my stronger side will compensate. Also, I'm aware that I have weak shoulders when hanging one handed, which I feel I should probably address.

I've tried bouldering hard to improve finger strength but my skin always gives out before my fingers if I have multiple session in a week. I hate to have to substitute a climbing session for Fingerboarding but can't see another solution unless climbing on the woody will solve the skin issue. Saying that, having had a look at the woody in the works, I don't know if I'd be able to hang hardly any of the holds anyway!

I've been to Raven Tor a few times now and that seems like a reasonably skin friendly way of getting strong fingers!!!

rodma

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#436 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 28, 2014, 06:25:45 am
I suffer from really thin skin and the limestone is pretty kind from that point of view and ought to make a bit of a difference. Sounds better (to me ) than finger boarding

Good luck

shark

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#437 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 28, 2014, 11:05:27 am
I've tried bouldering hard to improve finger strength but my skin always gives out before my fingers if I have multiple session in a week. I hate to have to substitute a climbing session for Fingerboarding but can't see another solution

Do a fingerboard session on the same day as climbing. Best if you can separate it out to do one of the sessions in the morning and one in the evening. Its what Dave Mason suggested to me and seems to work OK though you are going to compromise the strength gains compared to just doing fingerboarding.

 

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#438 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 28, 2014, 11:38:53 am
5-8 second hangs with more like a minute’s rest
and
The majority of fingerboarders are doing it to gain strength. Gaining strength needs a high force stimulus - pulling at your maximum. If the rests are short, it’s not possible to sustain this - you get pumped and can’t pull your hardest. So that’s why you rest fully between sets and the sets are 90% plus of your maximum force. Dave Macleod

if something is hard to hang(2 sec.at least but more than 10-15 sec. is too easy), with one arm or with two, I simply pick a 5-6 holds or grips on BM that fit in "hard to hang category" and do 8-10 series of hangs. It takes about 45 minutes without warm up. I am doing it like this for some years now, from time to time when my fingers are not trashed from bouldering (I am 73kg..heavy bastard). The key I think is consistency, whenever there is no climbing..or just a little of it.. I do fingerboard, so that fingers do not have much "rest". Tendons and stuff adjust slowly anyway so the gains are slow also. In my case gains would be achieved by bouldering alone, but fingerboard made it easier

Sasquatch

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#439 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
August 28, 2014, 11:46:26 pm
This is why I find the Lopez shizzle no different to anyone else's prescribed methods.

"hmm I like the number 10 and 10 is nice and easy to remember so let's say hangs of 10 second duration"
I'd generally agree with you and perhaps I should clarify that she has a bunch of other parameters for how much weight to add, how many workouts to do in a given period, Full day rest the day before,  etc. as part of her "protocol".   

I'm certain that sticking to a preprescribed routine can make a difference to someone who isn't able to get enough out of their current training (I'm including even just climbing in that use of the word "training" ) and isn't able to decide or analyse what exercises and durations/repetitions etc they should perform.
I think this is where most climbers fail, and myself as well up until I decided to do her workouts.  They decide to fingerboard, so they just add some random hanging on a random basis to their schedule.  Sure they may get stronger fingers, but perhaps not as effectively as they could have with a controlled and designed routine. 

Everyone on here trains differently, moves differently, pulls differently, rests differently, etc etc,  so whilst it may be comforting/encouraging to obtain anecdotal (at best) information on this type of training, just try it and give it beans ffs :)
To be fair she did actually do a study on it with a reasonable # of people.  However, I'd agree that there's no comparative to say that her method is better than something else, amongst other issues with the study, so your earlier point definitely stands. 

jakk

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#440 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 20, 2014, 01:20:05 pm
Hey, so to bring back this thread I'm curious as to how many of you have stuck with this a couple of years later, or have you all found newer and greater or more/less punishing things?

Did my benchmarking earlier and I like how straightforward it is mostly so I'll definitely stick with it for a cycle or two.

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#441 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 20, 2014, 05:47:33 pm
Still on it, but as goals change, volume of this changes for me as well.  Still a believer as personally having a consistent workout/measurement works well for me, others may find it very restricting. 

jakk

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#442 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 20, 2014, 09:23:26 pm
Ok, does sound like it could suit me for the same reason. How did you find the progression of added weight, I guess you can't keep adding 2kg a week for 2 years. Also as I understand it after an initial 4-6 weeks or so you should swap to using the smallest hold you can, did you actually find/make a series of tiny holds or an adjustable edge or something or just sort of work around that? Thanks a lot also, really helpful to hear longer term feedback on this than in the original thread

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#443 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 20, 2014, 09:42:21 pm
I've done a wide variety of different things after the 4 week max hangs cycle, depending on goals. 

So the good and bad about this is that as I've certainly gotten stronger I've also had a middle finger a2 pulley injury and a ring finger a1 injury.  That's made seeing consistant gains very hard.  I did the hangs for several cycles over about 8 months (about 3 cycles, then a long break, then 2 cycles), then did pulley #1, then spent 3 months recovery before doing these again, spent another 9 (about 4-5 cycles) months doing these, then did pulley #2.  Then 3 months recovery, and now another 4 months of these (on my 4th cycle). 

The last two times, it's taken about 2 full cycles to get to where I was before the injury, so those are hard to gauge as "continued" effort. 

#1 thing I learned from this was the value of consistency.  As talked about ad nauseum on Here, I think repeaters on most varieties, Max hangs, or something else, can all improve finger strength.  But, you have to try really hard and push yourself to the edge of failure.  You have to be consistant, and you have to rest enough to allow your body to recover properly.


FYI - I don't think the pulley injuries are directly related to the workouts. Both were on trips, where I massively overdid the volume. 

Matt002

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#444 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
October 21, 2014, 12:55:49 pm
Ive been doing these hangs mixed in with repeaters in a dedicated hangboard phase of 6 weeks.
Ive done 2 cycles of the hangboard seperated by 6 weeks of limit bouldering and a rest week.
I have also had a A2 ring finger injury to rehab (footslip on an outdoor boulder)
I started on 18mm edge +10kg and now do +23kg.
With 72 hours rest between sessions. I've been able to increase the weight by 1.25Kg every session without fail so far.
The main advantage with this method for me is using weight small increases in suspended weight rather than edge size or type.  I dont thinks its possible to create the same effect using edge size alone and body weight.



mctrials23

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#445 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
November 12, 2014, 02:22:32 pm
I've just started doing these the past few weeks and it seem to be a good program so far. Nice and quick to do which is quite important for me. The main issue I have come across is the amount of weight I am adding is getting to the point where it hurts to have it hanging off the front of my harness.

I'm adding 40kg (I'm an actual fat bastard at 87kg and 6'2", not one of these posers complaining about being in the 70s!) and I don't know if I should get a crappy old harness that I can add weight front and back or move to a smaller rung on the BM2000. I'm using the deep rung with some cardboard that makes it 20mm or so. If I am adding 40kg after 2 weeks then after 6 I will be adding a fair bit more and I think I might actually die / be snapped in two at the waist!

Whats the general thinking on this?

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#446 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
November 12, 2014, 02:56:36 pm
I'm adding 40kg (I'm an actual fat bastard at 87kg and 6'2"

Whats the general thinking on this?

That you have fucking strong fingers! Are you half crimped? You could try putting some weight in a rucksack to give your hips a break.

jakk

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#447 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
November 12, 2014, 02:58:29 pm
After a pretty stop start time I'm finally into it and had 35 added today, with 20kg in a backpack and the remaining 15 on my harness which seems reasonable so far. I was worried it would be too restricting on the shoulders but that doesn't seem to be a problem so far. I do remember though something about if you are adding a certain % of body weight then drop down in size.
Maybe do drop the hold size a bit if you can though, I'm on an 18mm campus rung at the moment which is working well although at some point I may have to make that smaller with a bit or cardboard or something. The big problem I have with the B2K is that it suddenly jumps (2 handed at least) from like 30mm to 10mm hence the seperate rung.

Nibile

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#448 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
November 12, 2014, 05:16:11 pm
I think that using reasonable holds (18/14 mm) with two arms, the main problem with Lopez's plan is that you get to use enormous loads to keep improving, and that's really, really bad for your spine, apart from being dangerous in case you slip off with a Ton tied between your balls.
I found great improvement in changing to one arm hangs.

In Ben's case, 87+40=127 kg. On two arms, it's roughly 63/64 kg on each arm. So, only 23 kilos shy of a one arm hang on the same rung. When I started doing one armed hangs I had to take off 20 kg with a pulley. Now I add 20 kilos. All in just eight years.  :devangel:

Apart from that Lopez's plan is well thought out and backed up by science.
Maybe reducing the rung's depht could be useful in the long term, allowing for lighter loads.

nai

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#449 Re: Eva Lopez Training plans
November 12, 2014, 07:54:31 pm
I'm on an 18mm campus rung at the moment which is working well although at some point I may have to make that smaller with a bit or cardboard or something.

The big problem I have with the B2K is that it suddenly jumps (2 handed at least) from like 30mm to 10mm hence the seperate rung.

I've got cardboard packed into the middle 4f slots on the B2K (assume these are the 30mms) to reduce the hold size, keep thinking I'll make myself a nice wooden plug to slide in and out but never get round to it.

 

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