[Sasquatch]

I've started off with 25kg on a 15mm edge

Seems about right for what you're climbing, 8A-8A+ish boulder right?

I'm currently at 31kg on a 14mm edge, but I weigh about 79kgs, so that's about 40% BW. 

That's really helpful, thank you.

You're welcome.  I wish I had known about this about 9-10 years ago. 

[Doylo]

I've started off with 25kg on a 15mm edge

Seems about right for what you're climbing, 8A-8A+ish boulder right?

Short 8a at a push when going well. I'm half a stone overweight at the moment though...

[Sasquatch]

I'm half a stone overweight at the moment though...

It's OK if you're in training mode to have extra weight, just make sure to track total hanging weight (body weight plus added weight), instead of added weight, as that will more accurately track finger strength. 

[tim palmer]

Ha ha, i have just seen the Eva Lopez finger board, it is the worst finger board i have ever seen.do your fingers not get destroyed? 

[Sasquatch]

I'm using wood.   

Currently using the lower crimp on the BM2k.

I've heard her board is brutal on the skin... 

[Richie Crouch]

I have just had a quick look at sharks blog for Doylo, to get the shortened version of how to get going. Just wondering about a couple of things:

1. How are people attaching these weight increments. I usually use a harness and sandbag arrangement for weighted pull-ups, which can get a bit uncomfortable. I haven't seen a weight vest heavy enough for training with +25kg upwards.

2. Seeing as you are only doing 3 hangs of 5-7 secs a session. Can I combine it effectively with a 45 board session or is it something you do solely on its own after a warmup? If so, is it best to do the board session beforehand?

Cheers!

[Sasquatch]

#1: At this point I have about 50lbs in a backpack, and about 20-25 hanging from the front of the harness.  I like to split the weight between the two.  It seems to balance the hang better. 

#2: It seems like there's still some confusion about the workout times. 
Can't speak 100% for shark, but I'm doing:

Warm-up - 10min progressive hanging stuff. Can give more detail if anyone wants.

Progressive set
Hang 10sec with 50% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with 75% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with 90% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes

Main Set
Hang 10sec with 100% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with 100% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with 100% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with 100% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with 100% of goal weight for session
rest 3 minutes
Cool Down

In total takes about 37 minutes for me.

Do the FB first, then you could add a board session after.  Expect to be shit though....  I'm amazed at how poorly I climb immediately after a hang session, but a few hours later I can certainly climb reasonably.

[shark]

is it best to do the board session beforehand?

Cheers!

 

[Richie Crouch]

So after reading about 5 pages I have gathered I should be ok to combine my gym weights with the dead hangs but to leave out the climbing till the day after, followed by a rest day, before my next session on the dead hangs.

It sounds like it is best to do the fingerboard stuff first before any other form of exercise but it is more practical for me to go the gym near home before the weighted hangs (as I usually train at the wall just before work). Reckon it should be ok this way around assuming I don't knacker my grip?

[Sasquatch]

So after reading about 5 pages I have gathered I should be ok to combine my gym weights with the dead hangs but to leave out the climbing till the day after, followed by a rest day, before my next session on the dead hangs.

It sounds like it is best to do the fingerboard stuff first before any other form of exercise but it is more practical for me to go the gym near home before the weighted hangs (as I usually train at the wall just before work). Reckon it should be ok this way around assuming I don't knacker my grip?

Generally yes, but I find when I start getting higher weights(30-50kg), then my shoulders/pull/core have to be strong as well to really maximize the hangs.  So if I did a weights session first, it could compromise that when i'm at really heavy hanging weight. 

[a dense loner]

I wouldnt Ritchie. Your weights session should leave your forearms barely able to crimp. Esp with weights. Depending of course on volume, body part etc. the biggest fear is that you'll already be warm but your fingers won't

[abarro81]

It's not quite as simple as that though, given that the conventional logic is to put exercises using fewer muscles and less coordination after those which require more coordination. I suspect that for each advocate of putting hangs first there will  be an advocate of putting hangs second.

[Richie Crouch]

Cheers for the advice r.e. weights and hangs. I wish there were more days in the week! I'll have a go of fingerboard first, then drive to gym and lunch at home before work and see how it goes.

[a dense loner]

Exactly, start mixing it up n stop asking questions ritchie. U can't always optimise stuff. Like it said on the phisio's wall "life isn't about waiting for the perfect weather, it's about learning to dance in the rain" deep

[Doylo]

A rope access harness is ideal if you know someone who can lend you one. Maybe it's a coincidence but I was a lot stronger on the board today after 2 weighted sessions

[shark]

It's not quite as simple as that though, given that the conventional logic is to put exercises using fewer muscles and less coordination after those which require more coordination. I suspect that for each advocate of putting hangs first there will  be an advocate of putting hangs second.

It is as simple as that on a thread about Eva Lopez Training Plans when one of the fundamental tenets is that you have to be thoroughly rested, ideally 24 hours, to achieve the right intensity of hangs.

Richie - nowt wrong with mixing stuff up or dancing in the rain if that's your thing. The Eva Lopez approach isn't the only way to get gains. She didn't invent weighted deadhangs either. But at some point things are modified so much that they stop being a version of the Eva Lopez approach and start being something else.

[Nibile]

There's no point to me in doing fingerboarding after weights.
Quality over quantity, no need to squeeze two sessions in a day if you're tight on time.

[Monolith]

Ricky, can't you just do a heap of weighted pulls and hangs with the sandbags at the wall board? I know you love going to that backstreet sted head gym in Garston to perve on the big boys but some focussed training would do you some good 

[Richie Crouch]

It has been structured so far. Just keen to continue the body strengthening along with fingers phase of my plan. Finding dumbell bench, rows and deadlift very beneficial so far along with more stretching to improve posture and lower back stability/strength. (Obviously i'll continue to do lots of core exercises too).

[Richie Crouch]

A rope access harness is ideal if you know someone who can lend you one. Maybe it's a coincidence but I was a lot stronger on the board today after 2 weighted sessions

Borrowed youngy's setting harness today, way more comfortable even though its a loose fitting medium. I need to put some fat on!

[Luke Owens]

Thought I'd try this out too. . .

Body weight at time of hangs 68kg

I did 10 minutes warm up which included press-ups, stretching and feet on hangs.

Beastmaker slot below the 45 degree slopers, 20mm? I used this for all hangs in a half crimped grip.

Progressive Set
Hang 10sec with - 5kg
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with - 7.5kg
rest 3 minutes
Hang 10sec with - 9kg
rest 3 minutes

Main Set
Hang 10sec with 10kg - 5 sets - %BW - 14.71% - Total Weight - 78kg
rest 3 minutes

I manged 2 extra sets than planned, the hangs themselves felt hard and I had to try hard. Reading posts on this thread, due to the successful 5 sets should I up the weight by 1.5kg for the next session and aim for 3 main sets again?

Also after 4 weeks, when changing to a smaller edge without weight what size edge would anyone recommend?

[shark]

I manged 2 extra sets than planned, the hangs themselves felt hard and I had to try hard. Reading posts on this thread, due to the successful 5 sets should I up the weight by 1.5kg for the next session and aim for 3 main sets again?

Go for 2.5kgs. Dont get too stressed if you don't quite manage 3x10secs.

[Richie Crouch]

Sorry for another idiotic question but Is everyone doing this in a strict half crimp?

[a dense loner]

I think the big holds on the bm are to big to half crimp effectively. For half crimp ive just convinced myself that I prefer the "easier" bm. I find this a much better size for the fingers, if the holds bigger I have a tendency to drop into a drag when tiring.

[AJM]

I think the big holds on the bm are to big to half crimp effectively. For half crimp ive just convinced myself that I prefer the "easier" bm. I find this a much better size for the fingers, if the holds bigger I have a tendency to drop into a drag when tiring.

I'd found the big slots on the 2000 entice me towards a half drag sort of position too.

I've been using the little rails on the bottom outside edges, which I assume are probably too small for that to count as strict Lopez training? Either way, I could just about manage 3x10secs on about +10kg.