Thanks for the heads up. Gibson's work presumably?
Quote from: shark on May 07, 2012, 06:03:40 pmThanks for the heads up. Gibson's work presumably? Are you for real Shark?Place enough bolts and you will place some bad ones. Rolling eyes are a tosser's response.
He's done it before and a friend decked out. Doing it once is bad enough. ..
I clip into bolts after placing them and jiggle around on them. I'm pretty lax and impractical but didnt need IRATA training to think of doing that.
All the active re-equippers I know in North Wales have had glue-in bolts not properly set on them despite following a sensible procedure.
Old mild steel bolts snapping under bodyweight also happens - I've now snapped something like 8 of them by clip-sticking and hanging on them during re-equipping - the majority being the same first ascensionist's bolts. Don't blindly trust bolts is the obvious conclusion.
Quote from: petejh on May 10, 2012, 04:27:54 pm All the active re-equippers I know in North Wales have had glue-in bolts not properly set on them despite following a sensible procedure.Just out of interest, what glue have you lot been using? I'd hate to make assumptions but I have heard rumours (not necessarily in Wales) of people using the cheap shite from places like screwfix/toolstation!http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-polyester-resin-380ml/33554I have always been super wary of budget resin for bolts and have always opted for the tried and tested construction brands such as Hilti and Fischer....
I've generally (but not always) abbed the route to strip the old bolts after putting new ones in and checked the new ones as I went. If this isn't done it makes a lot of sense to leave a note/tag saying when the bolts went in and that they have not been checked yet.
This happened to me when I was gearing Hidden Sign on abseil. Mild steel bolts corroded by sea air and snapping is to be expected. You can (or should be able to) tell those sort of old bolts are untrustworthy. The corrosion is often visibly evident in pitting on the hangers and you could make that sort of assessment when climbing the route.
In contrast there's no physical reason for a modern recently placed bolt not to be trusted. The only reason you would believe it was untrustworthy was if you believed that shoddy practices are prevalent in the placing and subsequent testing of the bolts.
...and subsequent testing of the bolts
For these resaons you should not be trusting somebody else's skill or lack of in placing bolts where your own safety is at stake
Quote from: petejh on May 11, 2012, 04:45:59 pmFor these resaons you should not be trusting somebody else's skill or lack of in placing bolts where your own safety is at stake I think this is foolish cant, certainly as an argument to justify leaving unglued bolts behind you.
I'm quite sure it's sensible for the punters to bear in mind that mistakes can happen. However, that doesn't alter the fact that if equippers leave behind unglued bolts they are making a fatality distinctly possible and it will be largely their fault.
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