the shizzle > beta - chuffing

The Ogre (chee tor)

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Tim Broughtonshaw:
Anyone done this recently... i.e. last year. had a play on it last weekend, admittedly it was very dusty and i am not strong currently. But there was a section which seemed pretty unfeasible and i was wondering if something had broken off, or i you are supposed to go leftwards to a press.

This is regarding the section about 2 thirds up the route when you have made some moves up to a small capped roof and there is a slopey sidepull for the left hand above this small bulge/roof, the options seem to be a biiiiig move  up using a very very poor pinchhold (which appears broken) for the right hand to get to the main  bulge (where i believe the main crux is supposed to be) or potentially pressing leftwards into a layback and then usiing this to gain a good position under the bulge. im about 5'9 and climbing partner is about 6'1 and we both had problems using getting up to what we believe is supposed to be the crux.  Does this sound familiar? Is this just weakness or a combination of weakness and some hold deteriation?

Tim

Ethan:
I busted a hold off this a couple years ago, its been done by quite a few people since and they all said it didn't really alter the move to much. Was quite a biggish hold though, still got it on my shelf!

Johnny Brown:
That's the crux move (though the link crux is probably a couple of moves higher, slapping the ledge). I'm 5' 8" and could just do it, so you should both be fine. 6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

From the two sidepulls below the roof, build feet, then hutzah with right to three finger sharp pocket crimp:



Then get crap intermediate with left by face, stab right foot onto little knob on lip, then either go into weird undercut with left hand or step right foot out onto big hold, forget which is first. Quick shake, then build feet, turn right hand into undercut, get crap sidepulls high left and slap ledge.

dave:

--- Quote from: Johnny Brown on April 02, 2012, 09:23:13 pm ---6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

--- End quote ---


Anyone for chee tor?

IanP:

--- Quote from: Johnny Brown on April 02, 2012, 09:23:13 pm ---That's the crux move (though the link crux is probably a couple of moves higher, slapping the ledge). I'm 5' 8" and could just do it, so you should both be fine. 6'1" should make it all piss quite frankly.

--- End quote ---

4'' (I'm 6' actually, people just think I'm taller because I try to lank everything!) should make all the difference as opposed to being a good climber or strong or something usefull like that  ::). 

Interesting anyway, I was determined to try to get the left hand in the reinforced hold you've got with the right in the picture which as Tim said just wasn't working. 

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