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World's hardest slabs. (Read 6037 times)

Fiend

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World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 11:24:23 am
Apologies for the r-man style topic, but I am genuinely interested (and inspired by the talk of Duel).

Bouldering and routes please....add some more please...

Impossible Slab V13, Stanworth - Gaskins
Banshousha V13/15, Japan - Dai (at V15, repeated by Nalle at V13)

Kinshasa F8c, Pedriza ("a confirmir")
El Tambela F8b+, Pedriza ("graduacion a confirmir")
Tough Enough F8b+/c, Madagascar - Les Francaises / McHaffie / Ondra
Very Big & Very Small F8b+,Dinorwic Quarry - Dawes (repeated by Steve Mac and other people I forgot)

 :strongbench:


Edit: apologies for not putting any photo / video / news item links on, but stuff turns up pretty easily on google for most of these.

Muenchener

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#1 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 11:39:01 am
Er, also Bain de Sang surely?

And I read about a 9a by Manolo in the Dolomites somewhere, for which googling planetmountain (some time when I'm not in the office) might prove fruitful.

However - possibly in both of the above cases - what's your exact definition of "slab"? Because I get the impression that in the world of hard sport climbing, "slabby" means "slabby compared to a typical Sharma/Andrada 9a in Catalonia", which does not actually necessary imply "less than vertical".

"Platte" in German climbing usage is normally translated into English as "slab" but really means something more like "technical face climbing" and can go to vertical or even slightly beyond. Even at the level I climb at I've been on "Platten" in the Frankenjura that were definitely overhanging. And I have a suspicion (Nibs?) that the same might apply to Italian "placche".

Fiend

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#2 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 11:44:14 am
It's got to be a proper slabby SLAB, not a so-called "vertical slab", ideally less than 80° and clearly using slab-style climbing rather than vertical/overhanging style climbing.


I'm pretty sure from the photos that Bain De Sang is a vertical wall, if not a few degrees over.

There might be one somewhere in....central Europe...from Beat thingymajiggy?


Edit: google Manolo 9a and both his route and BDS are "vertical slabs" so not slabs, however, described as "just off vertical" is:


El sior Favonio F8c, errr forget where - Manolo
« Last Edit: March 14, 2012, 11:50:31 am by Fiend »

r-man

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#3 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 11:53:11 am
Apologies for the r-man style topic,
Yeah right. You've posted way more of these than me.  ;)

It's got to be a proper slabby SLAB

Bansousha looks like an arete to me. A slabby arete, but still...




Jaspersharpe

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#4 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 12:02:53 pm
Maria Alba at Savassona. Slabby, 15m high and 9a:

http://www.myspace.com/video/rockmonk/marialba-9a-5-14d-f-a/27814571

Muenchener

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#5 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 12:07:07 pm
There might be one somewhere in....central Europe...from Beat thingymajiggy?

You are doubtless referring to Prinzip Hoffnung on the Bürser "Platte" (that term again). Originally put up by Beat Kammerlander as an 8b sport route, then "greenpointed" a year or two ago at "E9/10".

Which, from the photos I've seen of it - two very good ones in the March issue of Climax magazine - looks:

(a) absolutely brilliant, like a kind of super-Dervish, steeper and with a much thinner crack
(b) not obviously less steep than, say, the Cromlech walls

Fiend

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#6 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 12:11:29 pm
Maria Alba, I remember that, looks great, I think that counts. We can include slabby aretes and slabby scoops and other slabby things as long as they are slabby as opposed to not slabby.

That Beat thing is uncertain....the Dervish is a slab....the Cromlech is mostly vertical, hmmm.

Any more blocs??

r-man

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#7 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 04:47:48 pm
Apparently, this is the hardest slab in the Tone right now. Anyone here speak American?

!

Fiend

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#8 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 04:52:38 pm
Apologies for the r-man style topic,
Yeah right. You've posted way more of these than me.  ;)
At least mine aren't all about bloody Lancashire chossholes though.

Impossible Slab V13, Stanworth - Gaskins
Ah wait...err...ummm shurrup  :P

Muenchener

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#9 Re: World's hardest slabs.
March 14, 2012, 05:32:38 pm
That Beat thing is uncertain....the Dervish is a slab....the Cromlech is mostly vertical, hmmm.

Fay would make a good first E5, it makes a route like Resurrection seem like the easy solid slab it is...

joe dobson

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#10 Re: World's hardest slabs.
April 22, 2012, 09:29:07 am
found this on ukc, as the name implies does look impossible

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=187404

andy_e

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#11 Re: World's hardest slabs.
April 22, 2012, 12:31:24 pm
It looked even harder than usual yesterday.

Fiend

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#12 Re: World's hardest slabs.
April 22, 2012, 01:14:19 pm
How did you get on on it Andi?

Also Muechenchenr, you have a long memory. There are some bits of the Cromlech that aren't vertical....the top of Resurrection is one, especially in comparison to the sandy rusty peg overhanging pumpfest horror that is Fay....

 

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