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West Wall and Mxymatosis, Queen's Crag?? (Read 2235 times)

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West Wall and Mxymatosis, Queen's Crag??
February 21, 2012, 01:07:58 pm
More questions about lines....

Tried West Wall, by laybacking to the RHS of the slanting cracks, LF in obvious pocket, RH on high crimps just left of V0 crack, rockover into pocket, RF on top of slanting crack, RH onto another crimp near the crack, LF onto smear out left, aim for the arete and wimp out into the crack.

This seemed very easy for V6, the top was not hard just with bad scary fall potential even with the pointy boulder covered. It's also not the line shown in the guide although that usually means fuck all. It seemed much to close to the easy crack. The other line seemed to be, stand on low ledges, layback off mono, get RF in pocket, stretch for crimp near the arete and smear up to finish.

Which is correct??

Saw someone try Mxymathingy. Start seemed very obvious - start as for Red Dragon, go over to RD's RH crimp with left hand, walk feet up good holds, stretch to high RH crimp on arete. From here the guy wasn't convinced how to top out - direct was rounded and licheny, and stepping rightwards onto the footholds of the V1 problem seemed not the line.

Errrr...so which is correct??

Thanks in advance :)

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#1 Re: West Wall and Mxymatosis, Queen's Crag??
February 21, 2012, 05:06:35 pm
Edit: Also any idea of the grade of Boudicca low start?? This is the obvious roof problem leading into Boudicca HVS 6a, just before the stone wall and Alcove area....

 

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