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Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame. (Read 482219 times)

SA Chris

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#125 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
November 29, 2005, 08:21:44 am
Quote from: "BenF"
And maybe to assist the redpointer a "move countdown" could be painted onto each route so that you know how far you've gone and how much is left.  



Something like a document page numbering system; L; hold 3 of 5, R; hold 5 of 6, then in big letters "END OF PROBLEM" at the top, in case you get confused.

BenF

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#126 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
November 29, 2005, 08:38:45 am
And in a range of languages to avoid confusion.

Nibile

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#127 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
November 30, 2005, 04:01:13 pm
guilty.

i have to admit that its a really blind dyno, tho.

Johnny Brown

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#128 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
November 30, 2005, 05:14:30 pm
good looking problem. That's not jimbo kimber is it?

andy_e

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#129 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
November 30, 2005, 07:13:51 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Put it up on b3ta, and lo and behold... :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
http://www.b3ta.com/board/archive/24295/

Edit:link had changed


is yours that pink? see a doctor lad.

Carnage

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#130 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
November 30, 2005, 09:32:06 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
The next level, grade and direction of travel tick marked. Just do it at Dame Jouanne est. only in france


Not only in France. Theres a new cave venue here and because its got no guide/topo, the grades are chalked at the starts. No directions are needed - You just follow the white route.  :wink:

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#131 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 01, 2005, 12:58:33 am
yeah, but this one is in the guide with a grade and a full description (and is pretty log anyway, just ask unclenobody!) still the french thought it warrented chalking its grade and direction of movement anyway

Nibile

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#132 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 02, 2005, 01:33:08 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
good looking problem. That's not jimbo kimber is it?

johnny,
i doubt i know who jimbo is, apart from the former tennis player jimmy connors.
the prob is a sandstone area in northern italy, where we thrashed ourselves for two days last weekend. great. worth the driving. gotta get back: unfinished business.
damn, my palms are already sweating.

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#133 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 02, 2005, 10:38:59 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
good looking problem. That's not jimbo kimber is it?


No I have bigger arms than that thankyou very much!

JIMBO

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#134 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 23, 2005, 05:38:20 pm


Speciality tickmark-to-bottom-of-hold-and-completely-missed-anyway tickmark.

Nibile

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#135 Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 28, 2005, 11:03:24 am
:D

but the problem is so beautiful and complex!

Control freak

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Garth on an 8C in the Blues



Wonder where this one goes?

Carnage

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Aaaah, the white route - Plenty of those in the Blueys. Chalk always shows up nice and bright against that lovely orange sandstone.

Funnily enough, Garth is making the trip to England so I hope the he'll get a good tour from the 'right' folk.

a dense loner

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freaks been in oz for 2 minutes n it's garth already :wink:

Johnny Brown

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Any one want to own up to this attrocity? Must have occurred yesterday, when it was drizzling  :roll:  
Problems like this should not be attempted when damp as they have fragile holds and pebbles which are weak when wet.
And as it has now been climbed ground-up, top-roping should be out, particularly to the ludicrous extent evidenced below.

r-man

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I've got a similiar photo, which I was going to post when I got round to uploading it. It was like that on Saturday though - so not necessarily attempted in the wet, as Saturday was very sunny. Was one of the few bits of rock that didn't seem to be affected by snow melt.

A bit over the top with the chalk. Though the anti top-roping thing is a bit elitist.

Johnny Brown

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Quote
A bit over the top with the chalk. Though the anti top-roping thing is a bit elitist.


This isn't brownstones. Problems don't need covering in chalk to make them look like good problems. The amount of chalk in that photo is totally unnecessary and an eyesore. You clearly agreed if you thought it worth photographing.

How is the 'anti-toproping thing' elitist? It has been long established that once  style has been improved subsequent ascents should follow suit.

Or are you suggesting climbers not good enough to do the start should still be allowed to enjoy trying the top section in safety? Bullshit. Enough routes have already been damaged by punters scrabbling about on the safety of a tight rope.

andy_e

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Do all those holds need chalk on them too? Some look a bit unnecessary.

al

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also have same shots in my digicam, and was going to post but you beat me to it JB. i was up there saturday, and i assume it wasn't done then (didn't see any sun, it was minging and no-one around, although i was up in the afternoon)
it was like seeing the best looking girl in school shagging the geography teacher behind the bike shed!

Johnny Brown

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Quote from: "al"
it was like seeing the best looking girl in school shagging the geography teacher behind the bike shed!


Genius  :lol: My feelings exactly

Quote from: "andi_e"
Do all those holds need chalk on them too? Some look a bit unnecessary.


No. About half of them are either footholds or not used, which is another reason why I think they were trying to climb it whilst damp. The fact that the chalk has also survived two days drizzle is testament to the amount on each hold. All of the ticks are also unnecessary - for the crimp on the left wall (gaining which is the only vaguely blind move) there is a pebble on the arete which acts as a perfect marker - you can actually see it just below the tick. The fools.

andy_e

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Quote from: "al"
geography teacher

A particulary old and ugly one?

dave

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i ain't done more than 2 moves on this problem and even i can count at least 6 chalked holds on there that you don't use on the start at least. must be a bloody toproper's sequence for sure. :roll:

climbing is an elitist activity by nature. if people don't like it then sucks to be them!

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Quote from: "al"
it was like seeing the best looking girl in school shagging the geography teacher behind the bike shed!


You got some shots of that too?? ;)


The ticks - another "classic" example of tickmarks to holds that are so covered in chalk they can be seen on Google Earth anyway. Why oh why?


The ethics - well....I don't know if the precedent is going to change any time soon because of one improved ascent. But, I'm glad there are people in JB's elevated position who are taking a strong ethical stance.

Why the hell are you called JB anyway?

r-man

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Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

This isn't brownstones. Problems don't need covering in chalk to make them look like good problems. The amount of chalk in that photo is totally unnecessary and an eyesore. You clearly agreed if you thought it worth photographing.


You're right, it isn't Brownstones. What exactly does Brownstones have to do with it? How odd.

And yes, I did agree that it was excessive. I said so.

Quote

Or are you suggesting climbers not good enough to do the start should still be allowed to enjoy trying the top section in safety? Bullshit.


No, I'm pretty sure I didn't say that. I can't imagine anyone wanting to anyway. But one person's highball is another person's E number, don't see what's so wrong with practicing the top moves on a rope. Not everyone is trying to stay at the forefront of climbing ethics - some people just want to enjoy the moves and avoid injury. Why is that so wrong? That's the spirit of bouldering isn't it? Each to their own, as long as they don't ruin things for others, and I can't really see CT ruined by hordes of topropers...

Control freak

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Quote from: "r-man"
But one person's highball is another person's E number, don't see what's so wrong with practicing the top moves on a rope. Not everyone is trying to stay at the forefront of climbing ethics - some people just want to enjoy the moves and avoid injury. Why is that so wrong? That's the spirit of bouldering isn't it?


But we're not just talking about another route here are we - this is a significant and hard boulder problem which is well within modern standards for a high ball with lots of pads. Andy Brown fell from the top and was fine and in light of current ground up ascents, there isnt really and need to top rope this

And if said wouldbe ascentionist is not trying to stay at the forefront of climbing then why would they be trying to climb a route such as this - theres hundreds and routes up on the edge, go do one of them.

Its people bringing things down to their own level which holds climbing back - people are too soft these days, wanting to take the easy route for a big number.

We only have so much rock in England - lets not ruin it for future generations

 

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