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Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame. (Read 483608 times)

finbarrr

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It had probably just finished raining, some people like climbing on damp rock

maybe it was a wet towel, because he really likes climbing on damp rock  ;)

haydn jones

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#976 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 03, 2014, 03:04:51 am
So was at deliverance when I was met with this monstrosity. It was clear someone had been trying to dry out all the holds. All they had succeeded in doing was making the chalk hold the damp in, the only wet bits of rock were where the chalk was caked on.




willackers

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#977 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 03, 2014, 07:43:00 am
These people need shooting  :furious:

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#978 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 03, 2014, 08:42:43 am
What a heel.
No need for that.

lagerstarfish

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#979 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 03, 2014, 09:13:06 am
These people need shooting  :furious:

maybe educating?

(then shooting if they do it again)

Sloper

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#980 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 03, 2014, 11:06:24 am
I note the absence of chalk on the top!

But as a pednat I would say this is criminal overuse of chalk rather than a donkey line.

Wood FT

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#981 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 03, 2014, 01:07:53 pm
Don't show that to over-caffeinated sugary drink company, they might mistake it for the white cliffs of Dover and hack the fuck out of it

kelvin

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#982 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 03, 2014, 01:32:07 pm
*edit to delete

DAVETHOMAS90

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#983 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 04, 2014, 02:52:11 pm
Photo of London Wall, back in the summer. Sorry if the large image doesn't convey the mess.

There were about 13 clear tick marks between top and bottom, obviously indicating which peg scars to use. I know it's a route and not a boulder problem, but it highlights the trend in quite a depressing way. As does the photo from Broomgrove wall!

Better go to Specsavers.




willackers

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#984 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 04, 2014, 03:19:00 pm
These people need shooting  :furious:

maybe educating?

(then shooting if they do it again)

Too late for that. Go get the gun.

dave

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#985 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 04, 2014, 05:46:50 pm

Photo of London Wall, back in the summer. Sorry if the large image doesn't convey the mess.

There were about 13 clear tick marks between top and bottom, obviously indicating which peg scars to use. I know it's a route and not a boulder problem, but it highlights the trend in quite a depressing way. As does the photo from Broomgrove wall!

Better go to Specsavers.





Yeah the broomgrove ones this summer were a bit ridiculous. Especially as plenty of them were in the wrong place, so learning which ones to org or was a hard as a learning the footholds would have been without them.

Also the added benefit that as a perma-dry wall they won't wash off by their own accord.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#986 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 12:25:18 am
Ha ha

So you go there (Broomgrove) too! I thought maybe it was only me, and the (other) person needing glasses.

We had a deal - s/he'd kindly put the tick marks on, and I'd kindly scrub the fucking things off again.

The other option was possibly to add a few more - just to confuse matters!

It's, max, a forty move traverse; I scrubbed 60 marks off, the other night!

I think they're doing a 2-for-one on new pairs at the moment. Do me a favour while you're in there (other person struggling to see), and pick up a new pair for me too. I'll send you my prescription.

Ta.

I want to swear now.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2014, 12:32:25 am by DAVETHOMAS90 »

tomtom

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#987 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 08:33:54 am

Ha ha

So you go there (Broomgrove) too! I thought maybe it was only me, and the (other) person needing glasses.

We had a deal - s/he'd kindly put the tick marks on, and I'd kindly scrub the fucking things off again.

The other option was possibly to add a few more - just to confuse matters!

It's, max, a forty move traverse; I scrubbed 60 marks off, the other night!

I think they're doing a 2-for-one on new pairs at the moment. Do me a favour while you're in there (other person struggling to see), and pick up a new pair for me too. I'll send you my prescription.

Ta.

I want to swear now.

That's one of lagers hustling moves... Mark up the wrong holds to confuse the opposition. If it's not him then there's a new kid on the bloc(s)

JamieG

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#988 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 11:27:12 am
I feel that a lot of the professional climbers set a very bad precedent in this.

Not to pick on individuals. But there are some whopping tick marks in this recent video of Nalle. Around the 1.30 mark you seem him add a massive tick to the sloper. Anyway I like Nalle, and certainly am not trying to single him out, but I think all the top climbers should take more responsibility about how what they do on videos impacts the rest of the climbing scene. I'm sure this has been said before but that is my 2p. You rarely see them brushing the tick marks off afterwards.

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-nails-his-last-chance-ascent-of-emotional-landscapes-v158c-%7C-epictv-choice-cuts/600557

sherlock

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#989 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 11:35:14 am
I never understand why folk just can't use (and remove afterwards!) fingertape :shrug:

kelvin

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#990 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 11:44:38 am
I never understand why folk just can't use (and remove afterwards!) fingertape :shrug:

This is what I've been encouraging my mates to do.

lagerstarfish

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#991 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 11:56:21 am
laser projectors with sponsors logos

like Batman's thing, but used to point at holds

dave

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#992 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 12:52:50 pm

I feel that a lot of the professional climbers set a very bad precedent in this.

Not to pick on individuals. But there are some whopping tick marks in this recent video of Nalle. Around the 1.30 mark you seem him add a massive tick to the sloper. Anyway I like Nalle, and certainly am not trying to single him out, but I think all the top climbers should take more responsibility about how what they do on videos impacts the rest of the climbing scene. I'm sure this has been said before but that is my 2p. You rarely see them brushing the tick marks off afterwards.

http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/nalle-hukkataival-nails-his-last-chance-ascent-of-emotional-landscapes-v158c-%7C-epictv-choice-cuts/600557

I'm with you on this. The climbing media in general really needs to lift its game on this. It wouldn't be such a bad thing if all sponsors, news sites and mags refused to publish photos or vids with tick marks visible. OK you can always argue that of course so-and-so brushed them off afterwards, but plenty of folk don't. And the only guaranteed way not to forget to brush them off is to not use them in the first place.

sherlock

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#993 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 12:57:15 pm
laser projectors with sponsors logos

like Batman's thing, but used to point at holds
Yup,got one of those too(without the Batman logo).sends my mates dog berserk! ;D

Sloper

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#994 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 01:14:56 pm
I can remember repeatedly failing to hold a sloper that had a big donkey line below it, it turned out to be bird shit and the real hold as 20cm away.

It could be quite fun marking non holds with donkey lines from a ladder, now if we only knew someone who took a ladder to the crag.  :whistle:

lagerstarfish

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#995 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 01:32:55 pm
thin laser lines would be easier to photoshop out of photos than dirty chalk marks - I assume that the consitent colour of a laser dot/line would make it easier for a computer to identify what needed shopping out

a dense loner

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#996 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 01:55:00 pm
I think the media maybe could film rock stars brushing the ticks off after they've topped the boulder and stared into the distance for a moment.
I thought ondra speaking before the comp on a few issues last wk was a good idea and would like to see/hear more of this.

lagerstarfish

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#997 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 05, 2014, 02:39:52 pm
yeah, Ondra should give a talk about responsible shitting whilst at the crag

iwasmexican

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#998 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 15, 2014, 04:18:38 pm
not the worst, but pretty excessive given how controlled he looks on the first problem...


i.munro

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#999 Re: Donkey line / tick mark hall of shame.
December 15, 2014, 04:56:47 pm
To be fair though the tick marks might be nothing to do with the guy in the video.

 

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