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King lines of the UK (Read 49236 times)

north_country_boy

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#100 Re: King lines of the UK
January 20, 2012, 10:35:17 pm
What the balls is Red Handed??

Its the highball 7a arete down on the patio boulder at RITW, mini-mountain Stac Pollaidh in the background. Its a good line but IMO it should go in the pretty good lines list and the Essence should get bumped up to fully authenticated five star kingness.

I'd agree with that, The Essence is stunning, and climbs really well too

Nike Air

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#101 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 09:03:50 am
Forgot to say that katz's Chebal at Gorple should be on that list too. 8A+ from sit start. Climbs amazing and is massive.
I ll try and get a pic on later.

douglas

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#102 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 12:19:02 pm
King Lines

Malc's Arete (Torridon)
The Essence (Torridon)
King Kong (Dumbarton)
Red Dragon (Queens)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
The Joker (Stanage)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Will (Mallory Boulder)
Supercede (Hartland)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Carbide (Fair Head)
Split Arete (Polldoo Glen)
Scar Tissue (Callerhues)
The Eyes of silence (Callerhues)
A Moment of Clarity (Thorn Crag)
Hueco crack (St Bees)
Flying Arete (Almscliff)
The Young (Callally)
Cornelius (Churnet)


Good lines

Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson)
Bloodsport (Shaftoe)
Isla de Encanta (Trowbarrow)
Preparation H (Hepburn)
Gypsy (Almscliff)
Crescent Arete (Stanage)
The Ace (Stanage)
Monkey Spanking (Cambusson)
J Mascis (Gouther)
Pump Up The Jam (Skye)
Clash Arete (Clashfarquar)
Mestizo (Dumbarton)
Outstanding (Ruthven)
Turbinal Nose (Glen Croe)
The Mission (Torridon)
Fungataus Ejaculatus (Doveholes) - can't find a picture of this
Magician's Nephew (Queens)
Rabbitstone Crack (Queens)
Yorkshire 8a (Rothly)
Tufa (Rothly)
Classic Arete (Shaftoe)
Magic Flute (Shaftoe) - can't find this
Dulcinea (Simonside)
California Screamin' (Ramshaw)
Chabal (Gorple)

That's pretty much all that's been mentioned. I'll order them at some other time. I've separated what I think are true King Lines but I'm only going on what Google shows me so am willing to stand corrected. Crescent Arete is overshadowed by its surroundings and so isn't quite King proud. So is Monkey Spanking. I ignored it originally because I remember it being much smaller. Sorry! The Joker I feel is just purer than The Ace, therefore more King.

cofe

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#103 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 12:30:46 pm
On what planet is The Joker a King Line and a better line than Crescent Arete?!! Or The Ace?




gme

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#104 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 03:26:51 pm
 The reivier at ravensheugh.
The crack at Bowden. Bit sandy but amazing line.
Prep h is an amazing problem but an eliminate so doesn't count.
The young is one of the best anywhere but it is NOT a boulder problem despite what dan might say. You would hurt if you came off the top.

Nigel

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#105 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 04:58:41 pm
On what planet is The Joker a King Line and a better line than Crescent Arete?!! Or The Ace?



Have to agree again, is crack legal now? Joker/Ace has no place on such a list. Crescent Arete should be at the top. Along with Careless and NTBTA, proximity to each other is a blessing, not a curse.

Art Nouveau? How about those things at Brandrith? Never been but meant to be very good.

iwasmexican

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#106 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 05:22:59 pm
Prep h is an amazing problem but an eliminate so doesn't count.

how the hell is preparation h eliminate

north_country_boy

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#107 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 05:51:57 pm
Prep h is an amazing problem but an eliminate so doesn't count.

how the hell is preparation h eliminate

Because, doesn't it eliminates the vertical crack of A Northern Soul? If this isn't a stipulation then its easier than 8A..... it's possible to climb it using the same sequence plus the addition of one hand move in the base of the vertical crack of A Northern Soul.....probably hard 7C/easy 7C+ like this

Grubes

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#108 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 07:48:04 pm
Has this thread not made it to the shitheap yet?  :yawn:

clm

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#109 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 09:05:44 pm
King Lines

Malc's Arete (Torridon)
The Essence (Torridon)
King Kong (Dumbarton)
Red Dragon (Queens)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
The Joker (Stanage)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Will (Mallory Boulder)
Supercede (Hartland)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Carbide (Fair Head)
Split Arete (Polldoo Glen)
Scar Tissue (Callerhues)
The Eyes of silence (Callerhues)
A Moment of Clarity (Thorn Crag)
Hueco crack (St Bees)
Flying Arete (Almscliff)
The Young (Callally)
Cornelius (Churnet)


Good lines

Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson)
Bloodsport (Shaftoe)
Isla de Encanta (Trowbarrow)
Preparation H (Hepburn)
Gypsy (Almscliff)
Crescent Arete (Stanage)
The Ace (Stanage)
Monkey Spanking (Cambusson)
J Mascis (Gouther)
Pump Up The Jam (Skye)
Clash Arete (Clashfarquar)
Mestizo (Dumbarton)
Outstanding (Ruthven)
Turbinal Nose (Glen Croe)
The Mission (Torridon)
Fungataus Ejaculatus (Doveholes) - can't find a picture of this
Magician's Nephew (Queens)
Rabbitstone Crack (Queens)
Yorkshire 8a (Rothly)
Tufa (Rothly)
Classic Arete (Shaftoe)
Magic Flute (Shaftoe) - can't find this
Dulcinea (Simonside)
California Screamin' (Ramshaw)
Chabal (Gorple)

That's pretty much all that's been mentioned. I'll order them at some other time. I've separated what I think are true King Lines but I'm only going on what Google shows me so am willing to stand corrected. Crescent Arete is overshadowed by its surroundings and so isn't quite King proud. So is Monkey Spanking. I ignored it originally because I remember it being much smaller. Sorry! The Joker I feel is just purer than The Ace, therefore more King.

You are on crack

r-man

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#110 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 09:12:52 pm
Nothing shitheap about this thread. Most inspiring lines in the UK. Boulders to dream of. For whatever reasons we are drawn to climb, these are the geological mermaids that sing to our fingers and leave us wrecked on our crashpads.

Surely there should be more from Ireland? Some beautiful lumps in this article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3393

What's Contact like up close? Looks good here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51210
Wonderland sounds incredible too. Are there any pics knocking around?

Back in England, how about Scoop De Grace?
« Last Edit: January 21, 2012, 09:41:18 pm by r-man »

fatdoc

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#111 Re: King lines of the UK
January 21, 2012, 10:10:10 pm
Good point but Crescent arete just isn't King enough. Arc Royal is in the list (near the top).

you must be fuckin joking.... ignore the grade thing.. it's internationally great on every level


Fiend

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#112 Re: King lines of the UK
January 22, 2012, 08:55:35 pm
Good point but Crescent arete just isn't King enough. Arc Royal is in the list (near the top).

you must be fuckin joking.... ignore the grade thing.. it's internationally great on every level
Crescent Arete is waaaay kinger than Ark Royal cos CA you actually climb the entirity of the feature.

chillax

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#113 Re: King lines of the UK
January 23, 2012, 11:10:02 am
Nothing shitheap about this thread. Most inspiring lines in the UK. Boulders to dream of. For whatever reasons we are drawn to climb, these are the geological mermaids that sing to our fingers and leave us wrecked on our crashpads.

Surely there should be more from Ireland? Some beautiful lumps in this article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3393

What's Contact like up close? Looks good here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51210
Wonderland sounds incredible too. Are there any pics knocking around?

Back in England, how about Scoop De Grace?

I held back from mentioning more Irish stuff, as I thought it was a more UK centric thing. But since you asked.....  :)

Split arete (Polldoo Glen): I agree with Dave on this one, possibly the best problem in Ireland. Beautiful setting, beautiful boulder, perfect rock and climbs amazingly.
Contact (Carraigshouk): You're right R-Man, this is amazing. High curving blank arete on its own up on the hillside. King of all it surveys.
Solidarity (Glenmacnass): Yet another granite arete. Beautiful though.
Wonderland (Glendalough): Fantastic fridge-clamping roof line. No pic, but will wander up and get one at some point.

Spastic and Boombastic on the Boombastic block at Fair Head are both pretty king in terms of quality, size and setting, but I don't think they (or anything else I can think of up north) have the same sense of being a "line" as Carbide.

Leviathon (Portrane): Prettier in real life than it looks in pictures. Sweeping arch that climbs really well. Pity about the rock quality near the top.

I haven't been, but theres probably a King line on The Chief boulder in Derryrush. Thesiger?

Dave Flanagan

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#114 Re: King lines of the UK
January 23, 2012, 04:33:29 pm
I haven't been, but theres probably a King line on The Chief boulder in Derryrush. Thesiger?
Dave lists Highawatta (below) as one of the best problems in Ireland in his guidebook. There's also a 7B thing on the prow to the left that looks pretty impressive, forget the details. It's certainly a stunning boulder. Sadly I merely discovered the boulder in the Connemara bog but did not have time to brush/ climb Highawatta or any of the other major lines.


For the ladies

Paul mentioned some good stuff. Highawatta is nice, crux is slapping for the top. Wonderland is great and hard and all but I don't think it's a King Line. Too steep to really be a great prominent line. Bullet is a KL I would of said.




duncan

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#115 Re: King lines of the UK
January 23, 2012, 09:14:42 pm
These two must be candidates  :whistle:










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#116 Re: King lines of the UK
January 23, 2012, 09:37:49 pm
surely malcs one armer should be in there. it a classic line :smirk:

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granticus

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#118 Re: King lines of the UK
January 24, 2012, 01:38:26 pm
For what it's worth Crescent Arete IS a definite King Line and should be on the list...

Here's a contender from the Exmoor Coast...


Anarchy Arete by granticus27, on Flickr

Beastly Squirrel

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#119 Re: King lines of the UK
January 25, 2012, 09:18:14 pm
King Lines

Malc's Arete (Torridon)
The Essence (Torridon)
King Kong (Dumbarton)
Red Dragon (Queens)
Arc Royal (Queens)
Queen Kong (Queens)
Requiem for a dream (East coast)
Groove armada (Lad stones)
Lanny Bassham (Rylestone)
Jason Roof (Crookrise)
Rhythm (Flasby Fell)
High Fidelity (Caley)
Not to be Taken Away (Stanage)
Careless Torque (Stanage)
The Joker (Stanage)
Horror Arete (Bridestones)
Brutal Arete (Stanton)
Brownian Motion (Chevin)
Will (Mallory Boulder)
Supercede (Hartland)
Purple Haze (Tintagel)
Carbide (Fair Head)
Split Arete (Polldoo Glen)
Scar Tissue (Callerhues)
The Eyes of silence (Callerhues)
A Moment of Clarity (Thorn Crag)
Hueco crack (St Bees)
Flying Arete (Almscliff)
The Young (Callally)
Cornelius (Churnet)


Good lines

Triggers (Binnian North Tor)
Ben's Groove sit (Caley)
Zoo York (Caley)
Colorado Dreaming (Tintagnel)
Voyager (Burbage)
Sabotage (Dumby)
Pool of Bethesda (Pass)
In Hell (Cave)
Cypher (slipstones)
Fish Arete (Wimberry)
Sing a rainbow (Carrock)
Rouse's Wall (Carrock)
Northern soul (hepburn)
Suavito (Gardoms)
Poetry in Motion (Rylstone)
Matterhorn Arete (Almscliff)
Cocoa Team Special (Rylstone)
The Magician (Ravensheugh)
Superbloc (Moorside)
Yellow Desert Scream (St Bees)
Impailed (Dove Crag)
Red handed (Reiff in the woods)
Where The Wild Things Are (Lower Tosson)
Bloodsport (Shaftoe)
Isla de Encanta (Trowbarrow)
Preparation H (Hepburn)
Gypsy (Almscliff)
Crescent Arete (Stanage)
The Ace (Stanage)
Monkey Spanking (Cambusson)
J Mascis (Gouther)
Pump Up The Jam (Skye)
Clash Arete (Clashfarquar)
Mestizo (Dumbarton)
Outstanding (Ruthven)
Turbinal Nose (Glen Croe)
The Mission (Torridon)
Fungataus Ejaculatus (Doveholes) - can't find a picture of this
Magician's Nephew (Queens)
Rabbitstone Crack (Queens)
Yorkshire 8a (Rothly)
Tufa (Rothly)
Classic Arete (Shaftoe)
Magic Flute (Shaftoe) - can't find this
Dulcinea (Simonside)
California Screamin' (Ramshaw)
Chabal (Gorple)

That's pretty much all that's been mentioned. I'll order them at some other time. I've separated what I think are true King Lines but I'm only going on what Google shows me so am willing to stand corrected. Crescent Arete is overshadowed by its surroundings and so isn't quite King proud. So is Monkey Spanking. I ignored it originally because I remember it being much smaller. Sorry! The Joker I feel is just purer than The Ace, therefore more King.
Surly after mentioning half the problems at Stanage i would think 'Brad Pit' should deserve to be a king line? 

andy popp

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#120 Re: King lines of the UK
January 25, 2012, 09:27:07 pm
For what it's worth Crescent Arete IS a definite King Line and should be on the list...

Here's a contender from the Exmoor Coast...


Anarchy Arete by granticus27, on Flickr

That looks truly amazing. Love the A detail. Dare I ask how hard it is?

granticus

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#121 Re: King lines of the UK
January 25, 2012, 10:29:16 pm
Quote
That looks truly amazing. Love the A detail. Dare I ask how hard it is?

He who dares....

Just like Crescent Arete - it is a king line for mortals.  Dave Westlake who did the FA gave it font 6a+ / E3 ish.  (I reckoned 6b ish).  It is adventure to get to and to get back from which just adds to the feel.  I am only aware of 2 other people that have climbed it.

Nice article from Dave on SW highballs here: including some more King Line contenders from this corner.  Nether Edge and Devon Sent - Bovey http://info.rockrun.com/articles/way-out-west-south-west-highballs.html Woods, Rockabye - Cott Valley and The Groove - Clodgy all stand out.

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#122 Re: King lines of the UK
January 26, 2012, 12:12:54 am

Surly after mentioning half the problems at Stanage i would think 'Brad Pit' should deserve to be a king line?

You forgot the winky smiley 'I'm obviously joking' face...

 

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