Author Topic: Dinas Rock Conditions (Read 2038 times)

Beastly Squirrel · « **on:** January 14, 2012, 03:05:03 pm »

Hi Guys
I was thinking of heading over to Dinas Rock tomorow (sunday), anyone know what the conditions are like? any seapage?
Thanks

b3n99 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 14, 2012, 07:00:16 pm »

already a thread for this

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17144.msg303494.html#msg303494

cjsheps · « **Reply #2 on:** January 14, 2012, 07:05:58 pm »

I gave Si a text the other day James, but got no reply. Personally I reckon it'd be drying out pretty nicely at the moment, and the upper wall with boy racer will be good to go! You should come down!

Beastly Squirrel · « **Reply #3 on:** January 14, 2012, 10:06:39 pm »

Thanks Ben and Chris! Pysched and will be going tomorow

Duma · « **Reply #4 on:** January 16, 2012, 10:34:56 am »

8A! Nice one James!

KH · « **Reply #5 on:** January 16, 2012, 12:10:57 pm »

Good work on Boy Racer James! What is 'Made by Magic' though?

Kev

Beastly Squirrel · « **Reply #6 on:** January 16, 2012, 06:19:57 pm »

Thanks Duma and Kev! 'Made By Magic' starts as for 'Mr Magic' but instead of finishing up 'Launch Pad'(often wet) it finishes up 'Taylor Made'.

Beastly Squirrel · « **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2012, 09:24:30 pm »

Wrote abit about it here: www.beastlysquirrelblog.com

Ben Read · « **Reply #8 on:** January 18, 2012, 03:47:38 pm »

Good effort James, time to get on Mega Ten now! Allthough technically graded lower than Boy Racer I think it is much harder and still waiting for a second ascent.....

Beastly Squirrel · « **Reply #9 on:** January 18, 2012, 10:12:00 pm »

Thanks Ben

Yeah I had a look at 'Mega Ten' but time (and sunlight!) was running out so I had to get going, but deffinatly something to try on my next visit!

Paulos · « **Reply #10 on:** February 26, 2012, 09:46:16 am »

Yh well done James

Have you tried Jet Blue the right-hand V9 line from Boy Racer start? Is Boy Racer really two grades harder than this, which feels like an easy V9? The top half of BR doesnt look that hard to justify the grade IMO, but I dont want to try it if it really is a solid two grades harder than the V9. Mega Ten is a good problem, I got the moves sorted, just need to get stronger so can link!

b3n99 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 26, 2012, 10:25:08 am »

Have you done jet blue paulos? I'm back there to try it today but would have said it felt pretty solid at 7C?

Paulos · « **Reply #12 on:** February 26, 2012, 11:34:53 am »

It probably is a solid 7c actually, i have no idea with grading really, I probably shouldnt have said as i havent done it, from working it I just had less trouble with it than say Fat Cat Roof and even Awesome Shed (was stuck with the start, I resorted to checking out your vid to see how this goes, will be keen to get back and trying this also). Last time I was on JB I got to the /\ - shaped pinch on the right OK but didnt have confidence to do the finishing moves as I didnt have a spotter and had only one pad. I dont really fancy the finishing move too much as is quite high above those small jagged rocks, am thinking I might just finish on that diagonal zig-zaggy crimp for left and flat edge for right. Anyway, good luck on it today mate

I only recently found out about these problems on the main crag and looking forward to them drying off properly. I bloodly love Dinas Rock!

Ben Read · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2012, 02:16:47 pm »

Its good to hear these problems are getting some attention now! Just a quick warning that a hold came off the start of Awesome shed the other day (left hand) It was still doable and doesnt change the grade but may be worth treating with a bit of caution. Also added a direct finish to this problem at 7B+ but maybe easier.... Be good to get some ascents ot confirm! ( a vid of this is on my youtube - benread14)
Also the main crimps on mega ten have lost a little bit of a hold and so are a bit looser. I was goign to go up lats week and stabalise them but did not get the chance. Might be worth staying off this problem till they are sorted as it woudl destroy the problme if they came off!
I think that Jet Blue is about right for 7C at Dinas( the FA did use different holds to myself as I found a couple hidden under some dirt that helped which may have made it easier...?) and BR did feel harder but not sure how much by!
Mega Ten however I think is much harder than BR but am yet to get it finshed as well!

Anyway thats my thoughts on the matter!

Ben!

b3n99 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2012, 07:47:08 pm »

Would like to thank you Ben, and all the others (Barnaby and Peter maybe?) that have put the effort into developing the main crag as its turning into a really worthwhile venue. Think it may become popular when it dries out properly. Did your direct finish to Awesome Shed today and though it was a touch easier than the original so maybe soft 7b+ although I ended up rocking out the last move static from the right hand hold you jump to on the original as the crack was gopping, good problem though!!

Haven't been able to have a decent go at JB again as the rib always seems the be getting dripped on but tried Boy Racer a fair bit today and seeing as there is only one or two hard moves and they don't seem to be much harder than those on JB then surely a two grade gap is just wrong, maybe some adjustments needed somewhere?

Beastly Squirrel · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2012, 07:59:35 pm »

Right here it goes... I recon: Boy Racer 7c+ - Jet Blue 7c - Fat Cat Roof 7b/+ - Taylor Made 7b+ - Life of Fyfe 7a+/b - Shamu 7b - and Mega Ten I've heard is about 7c+/8a although i havn't actually tried it!

Hopfully heading back to Dinas during Easter!
Thanks,
James

b3n99 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2012, 08:07:38 pm »

That seems about right to me, have you done jet blue james?

Beastly Squirrel · « **Reply #17 on:** February 27, 2012, 08:33:25 pm »

Forgot to mention I haven't tried it, but seamed to settle at 7c I think

Paulos · « **Reply #18 on:** March 02, 2012, 11:50:01 am »

They are all around V9/10. They just feel easier when you get familiar. Left Wall High in Parisellas feels like easy V8 to me as i've done it so many times as its one of the best, I know its (soft) V9 though

liam fyfe · « **Reply #19 on:** March 03, 2012, 12:06:36 am »

Dinas is still pretty wet. Also when I did the first accent of boy racer I give it 7c/ maybe plus. You can prob take a plus for it if compared to bus stop in the pass. That gets 7c and that's piss compared to boyracer. I dunno where 8a came from. Has anyone tryed carpenters apprentice on kennelgarth? That's pretty stiff.

Doylo · « **Reply #20 on:** March 03, 2012, 10:51:31 am »

Bus Stop was probably always 7b+, its 7b now as the first holds got bigger

liam fyfe · « **Reply #21 on:** March 03, 2012, 08:48:15 pm »

Really. I done it about 2 years ago. Is mr fantastic grade effected. Was really kean to get that done.

Emyrr · « **Reply #22 on:** March 03, 2012, 10:39:17 pm »

Was thinking of heading down tomorrow, how much of kennelgarth and the main crag were wet?

standard · « **Reply #23 on:** March 03, 2012, 10:59:32 pm »

Quote from: Emyrr on March 03, 2012, 10:39:17 pm

Was thinking of heading down tomorrow, how much of kennelgarth and the main crag were wet?

It's meant to rain a lot tonight mate.

liam fyfe · « **Reply #24 on:** March 04, 2012, 12:05:58 am »

Fatcat roof and rightwards. All wet. Gentle jess etc in reasonable condition. Main crag feels a touch greasy. Also don't worry bout rain its condensation and seepage that makes it wet. All left stuff defo climbable.