Author Topic: Legendary feats of strength  (Read 101546 times)

Offline remus

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #500 on: May 02, 2017, 11:30:42 pm »
Correct me if I'm wrong, but this looks suspiciously like a one arm hang on a shallow ring finger mono https://www.instagram.com/p/BTcUp5JAfkE/

Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #501 on: May 03, 2017, 08:37:32 am »
 :dance1:
Ah, I really wish I could go back in time, to the happy days at the beginning of my climbing career training obsession, when all the training was about fingerboarding.
Now, there are too many things, boards, weights, conditioning, they distract me from The Only Thing That Matters.
Brilliant.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline Fiend

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #502 on: May 03, 2017, 09:55:51 am »
Nice. What takeaway was it??
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Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #503 on: May 03, 2017, 10:14:37 am »
Sorry Fiend, I don't get what you mean...
 :shrug:
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline Fiend

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #504 on: May 03, 2017, 10:21:23 am »
Fuck, lol, didn't know this continued onto the next page. Errr, that was at Shaz ;) I need to know how to tailor takeaways to being stronger....
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Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #505 on: May 03, 2017, 10:26:57 am »
 :lol: :lol: :lol:
I thought that you were asking me what was the takeaway message from my post!!!
I thought it was quite clear: fingers, fingers fingers.

Brilliant.
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline mark s

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #506 on: May 12, 2017, 10:34:01 am »
Nice. What takeaway was it??

burger donna meat chips and chicken tiakka,food of champs

Offline joel182

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #507 on: July 04, 2017, 01:12:30 pm »
Another one from Dai Koyamada - 54kg on a 10mm edge

Offline T_B

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #508 on: July 05, 2017, 02:05:53 pm »
Not bad. He's nearly as strong as me assuming he weighs less than 60Kg  ;D

Offline cowboyhat

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #509 on: July 05, 2017, 02:39:29 pm »
Another one from Dai Koyamada - 54kg on a 10mm edge

Looks like he's moved house and sold all his cd's on ebay. Pretty ostentatious for someone living in Japan to have that much unused storage.
Thats how you do it though isn't it...

Offline jwi

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #510 on: July 05, 2017, 03:05:50 pm »
Not bad. He's nearly as strong as me assuming he weighs less than 60Kg  ;D

But not quite as tall?

Offline T_B

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #511 on: July 05, 2017, 03:34:47 pm »
Not bad. He's nearly as strong as me assuming he weighs less than 60Kg  ;D

But not quite as tall?

Me, tall?  :???:

Offline jwi

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #512 on: July 05, 2017, 03:37:50 pm »
Yes I assume you don't quite reach Koyamada's stature (1.65)

Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #513 on: July 05, 2017, 03:55:40 pm »
Brilliant!!!
(He says, while shopping on the BM website...)
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline measles23

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #514 on: July 08, 2017, 06:18:29 pm »
(He says, while shopping on the BM website...)

Mine just came today :bounce:

They're mint - the 6 is silly of course but the 8 and 10 feel like minging lime :wub:

Never understood why boards focus so much on innies instead of outies, when so much of real rock is outies..
Also don't really understand why I'm so excited about forking out ££s to recreate what I did as a youth with perfectly good free offcuts, but as the guys at BM know well it's all about the benchmarking innit..

Quick test on the 10s - up to +20 fine, shut down by 30; nibs get up and running and give us some more realistic benchmarks to aim at

So many options for thumbs - full wrap-over crimp, tucked under fully out the way, stabilising on the side of the hold, stabilising on the front of the hold (is that what Dai's doing?) - what's in, what's cheating, where's the rule book???!

Offline Oldmanmatt

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Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #515 on: July 08, 2017, 10:40:21 pm »
Mildly piqued, cos I builted me one 'dem, months back. I reckon dem BM fellas done copied me...



Or not.
It's no exactly rocket science...

I have to say though, the thought of 6mm makes my hair curl. I can hang the 8mm for 20s+ and crank out pullups on the 10's.
pullups on the 50* and just a heartbeat on the 55*.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...

Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #516 on: July 11, 2017, 01:54:25 pm »
The level of delusion certain people have, goes beyond the imaginable. If we assume that this fool thinks that he really can squat 400 kg, can we imagine how he lives the rest of his life?
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline Will Hunt

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #517 on: July 11, 2017, 01:58:56 pm »
Is that Paul Nuttall?

Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #518 on: July 20, 2017, 11:29:44 am »
nibs get up and running
So, after a very disappointing session on the Lattice Edge last Monday (rounded edges don't go along well with 27 degrees), yesterday I went back in time to my early days of training, when there was nothing but a pull up bar and a home made fingerboard. It's been gorgeous.
I did some tests on my 10 mm edge, that at a closer inspection turned out to be closer to 9 mm.
Caveats: temp was around 26 degrees; my skin is very soft at the moment (no climbing, lots of sweating from boxing gloves and motorcycle gloves  8)); all the max hangs were absolutely maximal, that is around 1,5/2 seconds.
Many would consider these hang times no legit, but I do.
I do because I felt quite good to be honest, and I know that I could have done more with good skin and good conditions (but who doesn't then?). I also found these tests quite mentally challenging and possibly also a bit scary: the idea of popping off the holds suddenly with lots of kg at the waist is not a reassuring one. That's why at the first sign of the skin rolling I dropped.

So, enough of this drivel, let's go to the numbers.
Back3, + 20 kg. Very short hang, probably 1'. Scariest of them all, both in terms of fingers strain and risk of falling off awkwardly. Barely legit.
Front3 + 28 kg. Short hang but boy did it feel good. Could have done more. Half crimp with a slight ring finger drag.
Normal half crimp + 40 kg. Did it twice, short hang but again it felt quite good, although scary. No side catch with the thumb.
I ended up the session with a brutal 35" bodyweight hang, that boiled down mostly to pain tolerance.

I also did some math, because I am a nutter.
I weigh 68 kg in the evening.
Therefore:
- back3, (68 + 20) / 6 = 14,6 kg on average on each finger.
- front3 (68 + 28) / 6 = 16 kg.
- normal half crimp (68 + 40) / 8 = 13,5 kg.
From this we could argue that the strongest prehension is the front3 (probably because of the ring finger drag).

I also checked out Koyamada's stats.
He weighs 58 kg.
Therefore:
- normal half crimp (58 + 54) / 8 = 14 kg on average on each finger. The main thing is that he probably can deadhang that weight until falling asleep on the holds. But he is Dai Koyamada and we are not and will never be.

There you go.

image by Nibile, on Flickr

image by Nibile, on Flickr

image by Nibile, on Flickr

I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline T_B

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #519 on: July 20, 2017, 11:34:13 am »
Sorry Nibs, but how long is your hang for?

Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #520 on: July 20, 2017, 11:41:16 am »
all the max hangs were absolutely maximal, that is around 1,5/2 seconds.

Back3, + 20 kg. Very short hang, probably 1'.
Front3 + 28 kg. Short hang 
Normal half crimp + 40 kg. short hang 
35" bodyweight hang,
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline joel182

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #521 on: July 21, 2017, 01:03:53 am »
I also checked out Koyamada's stats.
He weighs 58 kg.
Therefore:
- normal half crimp (58 + 54) / 8 = 14 kg on average on each finger. The main thing is that he probably can deadhang that weight until falling asleep on the holds. But he is Dai Koyamada and we are not and will never be.

On one of his Instagram posts he said this was for a 3 second hang

Offline Nibile

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #522 on: July 21, 2017, 07:51:34 am »
Thanks for the info, it's still a lot!
I leave a white and turbid wake; pale waters, paler cheeks, where'er I sail. The envious billows sidelong swell to whelm my track; let them; but first I pass.

the blog http://totolore.blogspot.com/

Offline Dexter

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #523 on: September 18, 2017, 08:03:54 pm »
have you tried pulling harder?

Offline jwi

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Re: Legendary feats of strength
« Reply #524 on: September 18, 2017, 08:38:34 pm »
This will work>