nibs get up and running
So, after a very disappointing session on the Lattice Edge last Monday (rounded edges don't go along well with 27 degrees), yesterday I went back in time to my early days of training, when there was nothing but a pull up bar and a home made fingerboard. It's been gorgeous.
I did some tests on my 10 mm edge, that at a closer inspection turned out to be closer to 9 mm.
Caveats: temp was around 26 degrees; my skin is very soft at the moment (no climbing, lots of sweating from boxing gloves and motorcycle gloves
); all the max hangs were absolutely maximal, that is around 1,5/2 seconds.
Many would consider these hang times no legit, but I do.
I do because I felt quite good to be honest, and I know that I could have done more with good skin and good conditions (but who doesn't then?). I also found these tests quite mentally challenging and possibly also a bit scary: the idea of popping off the holds suddenly with lots of kg at the waist is not a reassuring one. That's why at the first sign of the skin rolling I dropped.
So, enough of this drivel, let's go to the numbers.
Back3, + 20 kg. Very short hang, probably 1'. Scariest of them all, both in terms of fingers strain and risk of falling off awkwardly. Barely legit.
Front3 + 28 kg. Short hang but boy did it feel good. Could have done more. Half crimp with a slight ring finger drag.
Normal half crimp + 40 kg. Did it twice, short hang but again it felt quite good, although scary. No side catch with the thumb.
I ended up the session with a brutal 35" bodyweight hang, that boiled down mostly to pain tolerance.
I also did some math, because I am a nutter.
I weigh 68 kg in the evening.
- back3, (68 + 20) / 6 = 14,6 kg on average on each finger.
- front3 (68 + 28) / 6 = 16 kg.
- normal half crimp (68 + 40) / 8 = 13,5 kg.
From this we could argue that the strongest prehension is the front3 (probably because of the ring finger drag).
I also checked out Koyamada's stats.
He weighs 58 kg.
- normal half crimp (58 + 54) / 8 = 14 kg on average on each finger. The main thing is that he probably can deadhang that weight until falling asleep on the holds. But he is Dai Koyamada and we are not and will never be.
There you go. image
, on Flickrimage
, on Flickrimage
, on Flickr