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Legendary feats of strength (Read 106059 times)

remus

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#500 Re: Legendary feats of strength
May 02, 2017, 11:30:42 pm
Correct me if I'm wrong, but this looks suspiciously like a one arm hang on a shallow ring finger mono https://www.instagram.com/p/BTcUp5JAfkE/

Nibile

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#501 Re: Legendary feats of strength
May 03, 2017, 08:37:32 am
 :dance1:
Ah, I really wish I could go back in time, to the happy days at the beginning of my climbing career training obsession, when all the training was about fingerboarding.
Now, there are too many things, boards, weights, conditioning, they distract me from The Only Thing That Matters.
Brilliant.

Fiend

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#502 Re: Legendary feats of strength
May 03, 2017, 09:55:51 am
Nice. What takeaway was it??

Nibile

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#503 Re: Legendary feats of strength
May 03, 2017, 10:14:37 am
Sorry Fiend, I don't get what you mean...
 :shrug:

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#504 Re: Legendary feats of strength
May 03, 2017, 10:21:23 am
Fuck, lol, didn't know this continued onto the next page. Errr, that was at Shaz ;) I need to know how to tailor takeaways to being stronger....

Nibile

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#505 Re: Legendary feats of strength
May 03, 2017, 10:26:57 am
 :lol: :lol: :lol:
I thought that you were asking me what was the takeaway message from my post!!!
I thought it was quite clear: fingers, fingers fingers.

Brilliant.

mark s

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#506 Re: Legendary feats of strength
May 12, 2017, 10:34:01 am
Nice. What takeaway was it??

burger donna meat chips and chicken tiakka,food of champs

joel182

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#507 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 04, 2017, 01:12:30 pm
Another one from Dai Koyamada - 54kg on a 10mm edge

T_B

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#508 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 05, 2017, 02:05:53 pm
Not bad. He's nearly as strong as me assuming he weighs less than 60Kg  ;D

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#509 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 05, 2017, 02:39:29 pm
Another one from Dai Koyamada - 54kg on a 10mm edge

Looks like he's moved house and sold all his cd's on ebay. Pretty ostentatious for someone living in Japan to have that much unused storage.

jwi

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#510 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 05, 2017, 03:05:50 pm
Not bad. He's nearly as strong as me assuming he weighs less than 60Kg  ;D

But not quite as tall?

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#511 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 05, 2017, 03:34:47 pm
Not bad. He's nearly as strong as me assuming he weighs less than 60Kg  ;D

But not quite as tall?

Me, tall?  :???:

jwi

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#512 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 05, 2017, 03:37:50 pm
Yes I assume you don't quite reach Koyamada's stature (1.65)

Nibile

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#513 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 05, 2017, 03:55:40 pm
Brilliant!!!
(He says, while shopping on the BM website...)

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#514 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 08, 2017, 06:18:29 pm
(He says, while shopping on the BM website...)

Mine just came today :bounce:

They're mint - the 6 is silly of course but the 8 and 10 feel like minging lime :wub:

Never understood why boards focus so much on innies instead of outies, when so much of real rock is outies..
Also don't really understand why I'm so excited about forking out ££s to recreate what I did as a youth with perfectly good free offcuts, but as the guys at BM know well it's all about the benchmarking innit..

Quick test on the 10s - up to +20 fine, shut down by 30; nibs get up and running and give us some more realistic benchmarks to aim at

So many options for thumbs - full wrap-over crimp, tucked under fully out the way, stabilising on the side of the hold, stabilising on the front of the hold (is that what Dai's doing?) - what's in, what's cheating, where's the rule book???!

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#515 Legendary feats of strength
July 08, 2017, 10:40:21 pm
Mildly piqued, cos I builted me one 'dem, months back. I reckon dem BM fellas done copied me...



Or not.
It's no exactly rocket science...

I have to say though, the thought of 6mm makes my hair curl. I can hang the 8mm for 20s+ and crank out pullups on the 10's.
pullups on the 50* and just a heartbeat on the 55*.

Nibile

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#516 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 11, 2017, 01:54:25 pm
The level of delusion certain people have, goes beyond the imaginable. If we assume that this fool thinks that he really can squat 400 kg, can we imagine how he lives the rest of his life?

Will Hunt

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#517 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 11, 2017, 01:58:56 pm
Is that Paul Nuttall?

Nibile

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#518 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 20, 2017, 11:29:44 am
nibs get up and running
So, after a very disappointing session on the Lattice Edge last Monday (rounded edges don't go along well with 27 degrees), yesterday I went back in time to my early days of training, when there was nothing but a pull up bar and a home made fingerboard. It's been gorgeous.
I did some tests on my 10 mm edge, that at a closer inspection turned out to be closer to 9 mm.
Caveats: temp was around 26 degrees; my skin is very soft at the moment (no climbing, lots of sweating from boxing gloves and motorcycle gloves  8)); all the max hangs were absolutely maximal, that is around 1,5/2 seconds.
Many would consider these hang times no legit, but I do.
I do because I felt quite good to be honest, and I know that I could have done more with good skin and good conditions (but who doesn't then?). I also found these tests quite mentally challenging and possibly also a bit scary: the idea of popping off the holds suddenly with lots of kg at the waist is not a reassuring one. That's why at the first sign of the skin rolling I dropped.

So, enough of this drivel, let's go to the numbers.
Back3, + 20 kg. Very short hang, probably 1'. Scariest of them all, both in terms of fingers strain and risk of falling off awkwardly. Barely legit.
Front3 + 28 kg. Short hang but boy did it feel good. Could have done more. Half crimp with a slight ring finger drag.
Normal half crimp + 40 kg. Did it twice, short hang but again it felt quite good, although scary. No side catch with the thumb.
I ended up the session with a brutal 35" bodyweight hang, that boiled down mostly to pain tolerance.

I also did some math, because I am a nutter.
I weigh 68 kg in the evening.
Therefore:
- back3, (68 + 20) / 6 = 14,6 kg on average on each finger.
- front3 (68 + 28) / 6 = 16 kg.
- normal half crimp (68 + 40) / 8 = 13,5 kg.
From this we could argue that the strongest prehension is the front3 (probably because of the ring finger drag).

I also checked out Koyamada's stats.
He weighs 58 kg.
Therefore:
- normal half crimp (58 + 54) / 8 = 14 kg on average on each finger. The main thing is that he probably can deadhang that weight until falling asleep on the holds. But he is Dai Koyamada and we are not and will never be.

There you go.

image by Nibile, on Flickr

image by Nibile, on Flickr

image by Nibile, on Flickr


T_B

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#519 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 20, 2017, 11:34:13 am
Sorry Nibs, but how long is your hang for?

Nibile

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#520 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 20, 2017, 11:41:16 am
all the max hangs were absolutely maximal, that is around 1,5/2 seconds.

Back3, + 20 kg. Very short hang, probably 1'.
Front3 + 28 kg. Short hang 
Normal half crimp + 40 kg. short hang 
35" bodyweight hang,

joel182

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#521 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 21, 2017, 01:03:53 am
I also checked out Koyamada's stats.
He weighs 58 kg.
Therefore:
- normal half crimp (58 + 54) / 8 = 14 kg on average on each finger. The main thing is that he probably can deadhang that weight until falling asleep on the holds. But he is Dai Koyamada and we are not and will never be.

On one of his Instagram posts he said this was for a 3 second hang

Nibile

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#522 Re: Legendary feats of strength
July 21, 2017, 07:51:34 am
Thanks for the info, it's still a lot!

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#523 Re: Legendary feats of strength
September 18, 2017, 08:03:54 pm

jwi

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#524 Re: Legendary feats of strength
September 18, 2017, 08:38:34 pm
This will work>