[Nibile]

Connective tissues DO scale with weight. Only, not in a linear progression.
The power to weight ratio - at least for climbing - is far more complicated than how it could appear. Everyone has a perfect weight for optimal performance, that not necessarily coincides with the lowest weight. Luckily.

[andyd]

So I guess some people are not impressed at all by this

The best bit about that video was the revelation that it's referred to as a snatch competition 

[Nibile]

So, I tried the Koyamada test today, despite not feeling 100%, but the desire was too strong.
I did it on the smaller three finger pocket, aka "right eye", aka hold number 5 in some internet pics, aka hold with no number in others.
I felt ok with 20 kg, and I failed miserably at 26, too big of an increase. Cut my losses at 22 which felt extreme and lasted for the shortest amount of time known to man.
I don't know how big is the Rock Ring slot, probably a bit bigger than the aforementioned BM hold, but blimey, 28 kg added is extremely extreme and 36 is intensely and outrageously extremely extreme.
Props to the small man, I have no doubt that's legendary.

[abarro81]

I felt ok with 20 kg,

 

[Nibile]

Yes, that sounded a bit strange and/or cocky while re-reading it.
By "feeling ok" I meant that I felt some sort of control and ability of holding the hold for a certain amount of time that I could control a bit.
Like: ok let's load the fingers progressively, ok, feet off, fuuuuuuuull body squeeze, yes I'm doing it, a bit more, a bit more, a bit - no!
With more weight I felt no control at all, barely left the ground, felt fingers and arm completely useless and everything felt really dangerous. Like being held and dangled by the tips from a giant plier, rather than actively hold a hold.
Classic dragging problem.

[abarro81]

I had visions of you casually locked off on 1 arm, 20kg dumbbell in the other hand busting out a few bicep curls for good measure. Now I'm just a bit disappointed

[Nibile]

So am I...
 

[Three Nine]

The bottom rock ring slot is much easier to hang one handed than the BM eyes because its less 'baggy' and squeezes your fingers together more like a pocket.

[Nibile]

Ha! Take this Dai, you weakling!

[Luke Owens]

The edges on rock rings are incut too aren't they?

[Nibile]

Now that's talking!
Tsk tsk Dai... Time to put some serious training in...

[mark s]

the other vids from the same poster are interesting also

[lagerstarfish]

via Slackers on Twatter

Magnus does 1-8 double handed

https://www.instagram.com/p/_RShM1ouJI/

[standard]

obligatory rung spacings post.

[SA Chris]

regardless of spacing, the starting rung is at cock height when he gets the next one, ie a fucking long way?

[slackline]

 

[tomtom]

He's not hanging the smallest crimps though...

[Oldmanmatt]

Pah!


She weighs sod all...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[slackline]

Legendary?  Decide for yourself...

Magnus Midtbø Front lever dynoing. From one finger to sloper without loosing the leverage.

[dave]

Loses a bit of form there on the lever.

[Fiend]

Legendary I think.

[ghisino]

legendary feat.

and much potential for a legendary fail as well!

[Nibile]

Impressive but not ledge.
Loses form on the lever and kips with legs. E6 6b?

[tomtom]

Only dyno' to the 35s....

[tomtom]