Could this be Ground Up’s greatest achievement? We certainly feel it is, and here's why:
Some guides just get you to the crag and show you were the routes go (actually ‘some’ guides don’t even do that very well!). This guide does all that you would expect from a modern colour topo laden production, but our ambition for it went way beyond these basic functions. For us, it had to be so much more than a climbing guide.
The quarries are a very atmospheric place and we wanted to capture the essence of this remarkable science fiction landscape. We also wanted to summon up the ghosts of time past, and not just the quarrymen who blasted out these massive holes, but also the maverick climbers who breathed new life into them.
From the early (1971) explorations of Twll Mawr, with
Joe Brown pushing into unknown territory, bold and innovative as ever - through the halcyon days of the 80s when the Llanberis climbing scene reached fever pitch and lycra clad loons swarmed up sheets of blankness, often taking massive ground sweeping falls in the process – and on through the recent slate boom which saw a widespread re-equipping campaign and over 200 new routes added.
Climbing in the quarries is extremely diverse, with something to suite all tastes, however mainstream or left field (aid routes and dry tooling test pieces anybody?) that may be. From classic traditional routes such as
Stevie Haston's Comes the Dervish or
Johnny Dawes' magnificent Quarryman Wall routes in Twll Mawr, right through the range of sport climbs running from friendly F4s up to desperate F8bs. This last year has also seen the addition of several multi pitch sport routes which have become instantly popular. (
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/07/15/black-hole-sun-3-pitch-f7a-in-twll-mawr/)
• Over 200 new routes; many being low grade sport climbs.
• 900 action packed routes in total, including multi level link ups.
• Dinorwig Quarries, Vivian Quarry and the Glyn Rhonwy Quarries.
• Full colour topos, extensive area maps and individual crag approach maps.
• In depth history section with FA photos, quotes and anecdotes from various slateheads.
•
Martin Crook’s Diary of a Slatehead - the 80s slate scene revealed in all its eye-popping glory via a series of excerpts planted throughout the guide.
• Slatehead profiles shining a light on all the major players who have helped to shape development of the quarries.
• Atmospheric & inspiring action shots from the very best climbing photographers, including
Ray Wood, Ian Parnell, Jethro Kiernan, Dave Simmonite, Alex Messenger and
Glenn Robbins.
• Historical shots from
Paul Williams’ legendary
Slate of the Art slide show.
• Five page monster graded list.
• Slate walks and adventure section - interesting/exciting trips to do on a 'rest' day.
The main authors of the guide are seasoned slate aficionados,
Pete 'Golden Heels' Robins and
Mark 'Hosey b' Dicken, with
Simon 'Rant-on' Panton pulling it all together as author/editor.
Al Williams, Ground Up’s resident designer, is responsible for the outstanding design and art work.
You can read a review of the guide here:
http://snowdoniamountaineering.blogspot.com/2011/10/new-slate-guide-book-reveiw.htmlAnd you can buy a copy here:
http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5046&oscsid=5d03fb19f88e9df489e6e8a9954f1768And finally, at the very least I would urge you all to go into your local climbing shop and read
Mark Goodwin’s extraordinary and deeply powerful poem,
In Slate’s Hands, which you will find on the inside back cover spread. It is a truly astounding piece of poetry, and once you've read a little further into the book you will realise the connection with the image upon which it sits.
Cheers,
Simon
PS There is a launch for the guide being held at Caban in Brynrefail on Friday 11th Nov. Read more here:
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/11/03/llanberis-slate-guide-launch/