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UKB ambassador required (Read 41158 times)

BenF

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#75 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 03, 2011, 07:34:04 am
Alex would have totally fallen in love and dumped that weedy Chris Webb Parsons forever.

Yeah, what the f*ck has he done at Pex?

Monolith

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#76 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 03, 2011, 12:50:07 pm
Send in the Popp! Great choice, no nicer man could you meet.

Richie and Si are also lovely men with a deep respect for women and seminal diplomats and if not used on the frontline would perhaps make excellent bench material? I'd have helped too and brought my newly-started-climbing girlfriend along but I don't want her to end up as fodder for some seedy little Thai island gap jah climber browsing that ghastly thread on his IBerry. Plus I'm shit, bang the same drum all the time and rarely do anything other than project these days. Hope it's a lovely day for yall!


Wipey Why

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#77 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 03, 2011, 02:05:49 pm
Posting the flyer for the event(*) on the DFB thread would be tactless, right? Although it *definitely* belongs there.

(*) which I just saw on ukc

I had the same thought, but decided against it

Duma

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#78 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 11:09:19 am
So, did anyone go? I'd be interested to hear how the day went, and the issues discussed, even if the panel discussion was binned. Hazel's thoughts are on the BMC site here, and Shauna's got some stuff on the hangars site here, but I can't find any post match reports.

Duma

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#79 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 11:53:28 am
hmmm, was trying to ignore that last line

Duma

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#80 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 12:49:49 pm
true, true.

Jaspersharpe

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#81 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 01:44:37 pm
Yes in fact the last line seems completely incongruous to the rest of the piece.

Oldmanmatt

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#82 UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 02:19:09 pm
Maybe it's because I'm a bloke, but I'm just not sure I see the issue...
I've never bought a climbing mag because it had a girl on the cover. My daughter spends more time looking at the girls on DFBWGC. My wife (who's about as non-trad as female could be (she'd lay you out if suggested she wasn't your equal)), read that and said "what's she on about?" and laughed when I explained.
Maybe someone can explain or give me a serious example of objectification in the climbing world (most men on the cover of climbing mags don't seem to wearing much and the Mrs is alway saying "phwoar, nice buns!" over my shoulder when I'm reading).
And having to once sit through an evening, listening to a group of women disscussing Sharma's finner points (none of which were climbing related), I often feel; the pot is giving the kettle a hard time again...

Jaspersharpe

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#83 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 02:33:31 pm
I think you're right and I think that that is basically the conclusion that Shauna's thing comes to (apart from perhaps incorrectly thinking that more debate and thought on the matter is needed!).

danm

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#84 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 07:47:14 pm
I mostly agree with you, but perhaps we're looking at it the wrong way. I read Hazels piece on the BMC website (shameless plug) and it really opened my mind to what it might be like on the "other side" as a climber. I can remember when Lynn Hill freed the Nose, you'd hear a few blokes say "of course the crux is easier for her, she's got small fingers", which denigrates her achievement. Rather, say the second ascensionists found it a grade harder - she climbed it first so her ascent IS the benchmark. I think thats an example of the subtle but insidous sort of thing female climbers come up against. Anway, back to my scrot mags  :P

Oldmanmatt

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#85 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 09:03:56 pm
I mostly agree with you, but perhaps we're looking at it the wrong way. I read Hazels piece on the BMC website (shameless plug) and it really opened my mind to what it might be like on the "other side" as a climber. I can remember when Lynn Hill freed the Nose, you'd hear a few blokes say "of course the crux is easier for her, she's got small fingers", which denigrates her achievement. Rather, say the second ascensionists found it a grade harder - she climbed it first so her ascent IS the benchmark. I think thats an example of the subtle but insidous sort of thing female climbers come up against. Anway, back to my scrot mags  :P

Hhmm...
I see the point.
But,
the small fingers comment is not a million hand jambs away from a recent "light rack" incident...
Sour grapes.

If there are 99 male climbers, on the crag (struggling on the low 6's) and a girl rocks up and flashes the 8a down the end as a warm up and one of the blokes says "ah, it's just 'cos shes' light".
The rest mutter "damn, shes' good (I wonder if she's got a boyfriend)", under their breath...
Does that make us all sexist?


Oldmanmatt

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#86 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 10, 2011, 09:08:34 pm
Hang on...
I'm debating this.

On the premise.

That this is not worth debating.

Thereby, negating my own argument.

Reason number 49999003, for not posting on-line after more than three glasses of wine...

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#87 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 13, 2011, 11:42:32 am
If there are 99 male climbers, on the crag (struggling on the low 6's) and a girl rocks up and flashes the 8a down the end as a warm up and one of the blokes says "ah, it's just 'cos shes' light".

It was my wife who, when I told her about a one-arm lockoff contest at the end of a bouldering comp in which two members of the German ladies' team posted times that none of the boys came close to, said "well they weigh half as much don't they?"

Quote
Self disabling habits and behaviours –A mini lecture exposing and analysing these universal habits by Vikki Cassell and coaching on how to work on them to reduce their impact.
When will this be online? Sounds like something everybody needs to listen to.

Paul B

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#88 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 13, 2011, 11:55:48 am
I mostly agree with you, but perhaps we're looking at it the wrong way. I read Hazels piece on the BMC website (shameless plug) and it really opened my mind to what it might be like on the "other side" as a climber. I can remember when Lynn Hill freed the Nose, you'd hear a few blokes say "of course the crux is easier for her, she's got small fingers", which denigrates her achievement. Rather, say the second ascensionists found it a grade harder - she climbed it first so her ascent IS the benchmark. I think thats an example of the subtle but insidous sort of thing female climbers come up against. Anway, back to my scrot mags  :P

Or everyone comes up against? Its hard to read a thread (not on here) where someone doesn't give a backhanded compliment or some reason to make light of an ascent. Its hardly an issue based solely around gender.

Ditto with the rest on the route at Rodellar, I'm sure I could find you a bloke who can't reach it either and if the one legged climber featuring on the Dark Horse blog graded everything, sure grades would be different. "Morphology in affecting difficulty shocker"...

north_country_boy

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#89 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 16, 2011, 03:24:47 pm
Ditto with the rest on the route at Rodellar, I'm sure I could find you a bloke who can't reach it either and if the one legged climber featuring on the Dark Horse blog graded everything, sure grades would be different. "Morphology in affecting difficulty shocker"...

This rest is a bit silly anyway, it is quite a traverse to get to it and getting back in to the route is tricky. I'm not even sure that many people use it do they? I certainly didn't, and I don't think the other people (including 5'nothing" Polish women > 6'4" Norwegian bloke and everyone in between) who were trying it at the same time did either....?

I actually think the 'normal' rest would suit a small bloke/petite female better than most anyway....

shark

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#90 Re: UKB ambassador required
November 16, 2011, 04:20:24 pm
Its hard to read a thread (not on here) where someone doesn't give a backhanded compliment or some reason to make light of an ascent.

Was that self referential  ;D

 

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