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Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free (Read 159243 times)

duncan

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I think Sinsat is more of local interest, or if you are in the area and fancy a change of scenery, tbh. But then again, I'm a snob.

Thanks, I'm also a snob. The BASE jumping is a big turn-off for me too.

Ordesa on the other hand... this had been vaguely on my radar but further investigation makes it sound ideal. RACS is a Parois de Legende tick that's not in France so must be good. Unfortunately I'll be blowing nearly all my holiday in August this year otherwise I'd be offering my services as belay bunny.


jwi

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Btw, Peña Montañesa is another impressive wall in Aragon that also can be seen driving back north from Rodellar, close to Ordesa. I have it on good authority (Albert Salvadó's brother no less) that Lágrimas en la Roca is among the best long adventure routes anywhere

duncan

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RACS (7a/+, 6c obl., 8 pitches), Ordesa. Not Euro-limestone.





From here and here

Duncan campbell

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whoa that looks amazing Duncan!!!

Muenchener

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Hard to tell the scale of the picture. How many pitches of Vertical Death Grass is that at the top?

SA Chris

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I was just flicking through the Arve Guide http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/other-329/guides/vallee-de-l-arve (after getting bit back from a mate who had it on loan for about two years) and the amount of quality looking FLMHMF Routes is pretty amazing. Mostly Limestone, but some Gneiss up around Les Contaimines too. Anyone done much in the area? Be a great Plan B for avoiding shit weather in Cham.

Fultonius

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I've done some stuff around there - it's far from the world's best limestone to be honest. I never got round to doing any of less accessible cliffs and, annoyingly, never got round to doing any routes on Maladiere which ticks the bill -

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9406

Annoyingly it pretty much catches all the shitty weather anyway and can get mighty hot in summer.

I always wanted to do one of the classics on the Fiz - but the amount of effort required to get there always put me off (more inspiring things to do for the same amount of effort elsewhere)

SA Chris

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I think being based in Les Gets makes it a bit easier than Cham.

I quite look of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16974 more suited to punters like me, but approach looks a bitch

Fultonius

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From Let Gets there's also a lot to do it the Valée du Giffre.

SA Chris

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Yep. A lot is single pitch though. Some amazing runelled slabs.

jwi

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Hard to tell the scale of the picture. How many pitches of Vertical Death Grass is that at the top?

60 m of dangerous grassy ungraded climbing according to the topo in PdL. Honestly, I suspect that that pitch is the least of worries.

duncan

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Routes that might make it into a less Franco-centric version of the Parois du Legend books:  Europe and the Rest of the World (16 18 so far, since you ask). 

The Parois de Legende books are now a single volume.

As Vertebrate don't look to be bringing out an English translation I'm buying one from M. Petit at Ceuse this June. PM me if you'd like a signed copy.


Muenchener

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The Parois de Legende books are now a single volume.

Holy shit! I've done one of the routes.  :o

Anybody who looked through the contents page for the easiest route in the book wouldn't be far wrong as to which one.

Hydraulic Man

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If sport routes can qualify, Wassersymphonie in the Berchtesgaden Alps is supposed to be a classic, little known outside the German speaking world. 15 ptiches total, crux 6c+, half a dozen pitches around 6b. (Disclaimer: my experience of this route consists of having read the guidebook and looked at it from the road. It is firmly on my "some day but not yet" list. Along with the V-M)
[/quote]

Went and climbed Wasser back in 2012.

It's a proper good day out with some stunning climbing higher up. The picture is on one of the easier pitches that must rate as 3* HVS in its own right.

It's well bolted but has a slightly tricky walk back down that we sussed out the day before.

Nice little Gasthof in the village before for a Weizen beer afterwards.

Crags around here look amazing in general.

The routes on the Sonneck (Kaiser) also look stunning.

No queues down there.


Muenchener

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Good to know. I was thinking of shifting it from the "aspriational" to the "realistic" section of the to do list. I have yet to onsight 6c+ though ... but six pitches up on the Alpwand would be a cool place to do it.

Fultonius

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Ok folks - packing for the America trip (just handed in my Thesis YYFY!).

Bivvy kit for the Incredible Hulk - what do you recommend? Bivvy bag & mat, stove?

What's the deal with storing food? I've heard some chat about bear canisters?

Is it likely that the stream will still be flowing in Sendtember?
« Last Edit: August 23, 2016, 05:31:58 pm by Fultonius »

AndyR

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Ok folks - packing for the America trip (just handed in my Thesis YYFY!).

Bivvy kit for the Incredible Hulk - what do you recommend? Bivvy bag & mat, stove?

What's the deal with storing food? I've heard some chat about bear canisters?

Is it likely that the stream will still be flowing in Sendtember?

Was there a couple of weeks ago. I took a lightweight tent, though one chap was just dossing in a bivy bag (with his dog!). If you get a permit for overnight use, then they ask to check whether you have a bear barrel or not - I had one anyway, so used it. Bears are always around, though your biggest problem will likely be snafflehounds - people without bear canisters were using all manner of hanging their food out of reach of pesky rodents...
Dunno whether stream will still be flowing - you could ask on supertopo and you may get a reasonable answer (though I wouldn't count on it...) - I used water filter/purification and was glad of it - that area is seeing more and more use...

Great place - enjoy

rosmat

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Ok folks - packing for the America trip (just handed in my Thesis YYFY!).

Bivvy kit for the Incredible Hulk - what do you recommend? Bivvy bag & mat, stove?

What's the deal with storing food? I've heard some chat about bear canisters?

Is it likely that the stream will still be flowing in Sendtember?

Do Sunspot Dihedral - its better than pos vibes

rosmat

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Ok folks - packing for the America trip (just handed in my Thesis YYFY!).

Bivvy kit for the Incredible Hulk - what do you recommend? Bivvy bag & mat, stove?

What's the deal with storing food? I've heard some chat about bear canisters?

Is it likely that the stream will still be flowing in Sendtember?

Yeah - you should be using a bear canister up there, you can rent them from the wilderness centre.

Stream, not sure, was a good snow year but water is getting pretty low everywhere in the Sierra.

Paul B

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You need to get a Wilderness permit as well. These are actually limited.

We used bivvy bag etc. but others there at the same time had tents and it was fairly windy. The fishing shop in a 'nearby' town rents bear canisters (the exact info will be on Mountain Proj.; it's also likely that stream beta will be available).

I thought red dihedral was a bit average and kept looking longingly at Positive Vibrations / Sunspot.

I take it you've got the MP approach beta with the photograph of the 'large flat rock'? Generally the walk isn't as bad as people make out; for one route I'd have been happy to get an early start/late finish rather than as we did, taking in gear to sleep, do one route and walk out in the same day (i.e. the 2nd).

We came pretty much straight from sea level which was a mistake and I had to climb with a constant headache.

SA Chris

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I had to climb with a constant headache.
But you still love her ;)

Duncan campbell

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I'd agree the walk in is not that bad and it's well doable to do the thing in a long day. Not sure if this has been mentioned but I'd suggest going midweek. We went on a weekend and were behind loads of slow choppers. In fact we ended up soloing/simuling some shit variation to the red dihedral on shit kitty-litter granite.

Wish I had been going well enough to do positive vibes. Was being a bit of a chopper myself that trip.

It's a cool place to go climbing - I'm keen to head back someday

Paul B

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I thought red dihedral was a bit average and kept looking longingly at Positive Vibrations / Sunspot.

I've just re-read this and realised how negative it sounds; please note it's in the context of being on a 6 month tour of the very best the Western USA could offer.

The Incredible Hulk, 11,020' by travelswithmyt4, on Flickr

Is there also some headache (paying / permitting etc.) surrounding parking?

Johnny Brown

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Not like you to be negative Paul, must have been the altitude.

Anyone with experience of both able to compare it to the Bugs?

Paul B

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Not like you to be negative Paul, must have been the altitude.

I'll take overly negative.

 

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