[haydn jones]

paint it black dry, some of the problems to the left dry too (orange si is dry and well worth doing 7B) red or dead and the top shop traverse into it dry, jerrys dry, a lack of colour dry.

[haydn jones]

paint it black area soaking
beginers wall soaking
mutton bustting wall soaking

[peaches69]

Could someone post on Tuesday/Wednesday regarding paint it black/working 9/5 conditions

[haydn jones]

everything was bonedry at seans roof area, beginers wall mostly dry,

Griff's buttress dry, also theres a few problems there with no names which is rather confusing when i go to log them, can anyone think up something to call them?

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/109-blackwell-dale#.U7MtgpRdVpo

[haydn jones]

also the undercut on ovine finally snapped off today

[Bonjoy]

I took it off to be exact (took very little effort!) as it’s been loose for years and was a nasty explosive dismount waiting to happen. I was intending to glue it back, but the undercut underneath was very similar to the one removed (a nicer hold, totally solid, but a bit less positive) so I’ve left it off. It makes no odds to the difficulty.

[Ru]

When I did the FA of Ovine, I used the hold that Bonjoy is talking about, and not the undercut, which was wet and muddy. So the fact that the undercut has come off makes no odds. The lower hold is a bit less positive, but pinchy, and solid.

My sitter on the RHS of cave is now called Bovine, plus done a bit of reshuffling on Peak District Bouldering. I think one of the problems on there doesn't exist - couldn't see a way of deleting it.

[turnipturned]

It was still there at 17:00 when I did mutton busting! Hope I didn't result in its break as I did use it.

For reference, I did do mutton busting but with a different sequence to the norm. Started on the two beaks, went to the horrible pocket with LH. Then instead of rolling over to the sloper I put a Egyptian in (left knee dropped) and went again with left hand to the side pull crimp as a pinch! Maybe useful for the shorter folk as the other way felt super hard for me!

Hope it's a legit way!

   

[Bonjoy]

When I did the FA of Ovine, I used the hold that Bonjoy is talking about, and not the undercut, which was wet and muddy. So the fact that the undercut has come off makes no odds. The lower hold is a bit less positive, but pinchy, and solid.

My sitter on the RHS of cave is now called Bovine, plus done a bit of reshuffling on Peak District Bouldering. I think one of the problems on there doesn't exist - couldn't see a way of deleting it.

Not sure you mean the same hold Ru. By underneath I meant literally touching/obscured by the now deceased bit of rock. I think you might mean the pinchy sidepull about a foot lower. Either way the holdloss is I think an improvement and it doesn't change the difficulty one way or the other.

Dan-  it was no looser last night than when I'd tried it yonks ago. You're a braver man than me pulling on it! I took it off with a screw driver but it took bugger all effort. It seemed to be held in place with mud and woodlice only.

[a dense loner]

Dan is your vid up anywhere other than Instagram? I'm afraid I don't have the ego necessary to use it

[Ru]

It was still there at 17:00 when I did mutton busting! Hope I didn't result in its break as I did use it.

For reference, I did do mutton busting but with a different sequence to the norm. Started on the two beaks, went to the horrible pocket with LH. Then instead of rolling over to the sloper I put a Egyptian in (left knee dropped) and went again with left hand to the side pull crimp as a pinch! Maybe useful for the shorter folk as the other way felt super hard for me!

Hope it's a legit way!

I saw the video on your Instagram - how you did it is fine, but it starts lower down, with RH on a crimp (that I think you use for your right foot later on). I think the normal method is not to use the right-hand side pull beak that you go to the pocket off, but I'm not 100% sure. When I first brushed it (and didn't do it) I was trying it off the RH beak, but I didn't have the heel toe in - I was trying to dyno straight through to the slot, with feet cutting, which was (too) hard. I never actually went back to finish this problem off because the other method seemed too reachy - I'll try with your method.

[Ru]

Not sure you mean the same hold Ru. By underneath I meant literally touching/obscured by the now deceased bit of rock. I think you might mean the pinchy sidepull about a foot lower. Either way the holdloss is I think an improvement and it doesn't change the difficulty one way or the other.

Yeah, that's the hold I was referring to. I was a bit disappointed when everyone started using the undercut.

[a dense loner]

I love limestone, no one does anything properly. Go to crag x with mason you can't do something one way go with welford you can't do it that way then go with someone else and you're on the wrong bloody problem! I reckon 70-80% of claims on 9a.boner are invalid

[turnipturned]

 

I saw the video on your Instagram - how you did it is fine, but it starts lower down, with RH on a crimp

Cheers Ru. Yeah sorry Instagram only gives you 15secs so I missed of the start and end just to show the interesting section. You should give it a go, quite fun but hurts your knee a bit. Defo a good way for the shorties!

I love limestone, no one does anything properly. Go to crag x with mason you can't do something one way go with welford you can't do it that way then go with someone else and you're on the wrong bloody problem! I reckon 70-80% of claims on 9a.boner are invalid

Yeah sorry forgot we were in the peak.

[Bonjoy]

  The day Yorkshire finds some limestone bouldering (or someone tries to write up Kilnsey bouldering for starters) is the day you have the same bollocks. It’s a limestone thing not a Peak thing.
Crag X is an anomaly brought about by the long standing veto on documentation. Word of mouth = Chinese whispers.
I wont mention Almscliff.

[turnipturned]

The day Yorkshire finds some limestone bouldering (or someone tries to write up Kilnsey bouldering for starters) is the day you have the same bollocks. It’s a limestone thing not a Peak thing.
Crag X is an anomaly brought about by the long standing veto on documentation. Word of mouth = Chinese whispers.
I wont mention Almscliff.

In the pipeline my friend. Hopefully going to do a video topo of Kilnsey Bouldering (just for reference, Steve did primitive notion completely differently to how its done these days). A lil bit of Yorkshire Limestone is being developed at the moment!

I were only messing, I am just not sure how not using one hold makes it an invalid ascent?

[Bonjoy]

Good stuff, knew there must be some out there somewhere. Keen to see the Kilnsey topo.

[T_B]

So where is Griff's Buttress? Someone once described it to me, but I can't picture it. Is it on the opposite side of the valley to Fossil Wall etc?

[turnipturned]

So where is Griff's Buttress? Someone once described it to me, but I can't picture it. Is it on the opposite side of the valley to Fossil Wall etc?

Park for Advanced Training (next layby from Seans Roof). Cross the road, over the fence and you will see a faint track that leads to the buttress.

[turnipturned]

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/109-blackwell-dale/boulders/534-griff-s-buttress#.U7QKss9OXlY

[T_B]

Got it - Advanced training is where Neils Wall is... thanks

[a dense loner]

A video topo of any lime bouldering would be good. Next stage of evilution obviously

[rossydoodle61]

Wetter than an otter's pocket.

Paint it Black, Working 9-5 et al, absolutely soaked from run off. Jerry's across the road soaked too.

Beginner's Wall mostly wet and Ovine over the road just wet with condensation.

[James Malloch]

Every thing seemed dry today on seans roof, red and dead, beginners wall areas (except Sean's roof itself).

[haydn jones]

all sectors bone dry, byker groove is dry too which i suspect is quite rare, cleaned it up yesterday and today good problem better than paint it black imo.