[Dutch]

Just wondering if anyone has had a look at what nick it's in. How wet the holds are and if it's climbable at moment. Hoping with the dry weather it might be in good nick.

[saltbeef]

dobbin did it yesterday

[dobbin]

yeah totally dry. dont know if i did it a very inefficient way or something, but it felt hard for 7c.

[Dutch]

Cheers for that. Hopefully get out and try it this week.

[blacky]

yeah totally dry. dont know if i did it a very inefficient way or something, but it felt hard for 7c.

I thought it was nails too.

[dave]

As of last night its "dry" in that the starting hold is damp/soapy, and the top hold or should I say topsoil is damp. I think this is about as dry as it ever gets though.

I didn't do it (first session on lime bouldering for over a month, fingers very tender) but I was going to say it felt pretty OK for that grade.

[dobbin]

As indeed do most things when you can reach past the hard bit 

[dave]

why I oughta...

[dobbin]

 

I think a fitting punishment would be a reach around?

[dave]

Found this video of a guy half of Paint It Black .



seems like there a ton of different beta for this - too many holds?

[Steamboat Stello]

Found this video of a guy half of Paint It Black .

Does it finish higher than this then at the next break? Thinking of giving it a go at some point soon. Presumably it'll be wet over autumn/winter?

[dave]

There's a couple of holds just where the rock becomes soil, thats the finish. Yeah and it will generally be soaked in winter - infact its often wet even in summer! I know the start was damp even on the FA.

[dobbin]

Ha, thats brilliant - look at Ethan's guns though, by jesus!

So, he goes left over to the pinch at the start where I went right. Once I'd gotten that I toe hooked like Ethan does, then left to rat crimp, toe out and stand on edge, change left foot from heel to on spike, flag, and right to bad rat crimp thing. Then I went left to the same hold as Ethan, and right to wee vertical edge round the corner, then right foot on back of little hand hold and rock for jug at top. Match in, then left on pinch and lunge leftwards for jug. Walk feet through, right hand to undercut in roof, frog and lurch left hand to sharp jug in dirt, catch it match it, etc.

[dave]

thats confusing. the beta in the video only has 1 hold in common with the sequence I worked out the other day, (bar the start holds obviously).

Hopefully after tonight I can gloat that I've got a better sequence than you guys....

[cofe]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17487.msg314208.html#msg314208

[dave]

anyone heading down here tomorrow, the entire sean's roof area and over the road were completely rinsed in condensation. 100% gopping.

[Ethan]

Yeah there is so many different ways of doing this thing, lots of holds to play with. I've done the start both ways, one using the crimp/pinch with left hand and then again using it with the right. Don't think it really matters as it feels about the same in the end regardless of which beta you use. Wicked little problem though!

[Dutch]

Just wondering if anyone's been down today to see what sort of nick it's in. Don't know whether I can be arsed to drive out if it's still wet after the other day.

[Ethan]

It didn't look amazing as we drove past earlier, but couldn't really tell for sure.

[RobinB]

First hold a bit greasy but basically dry today

[Andy B]

There's a couple of holds just where the rock becomes soil, thats the finish. Yeah and it will generally be soaked in winter - infact its often wet even in summer! I know the start was damp even on the FA.

It can be dry in Winter apparently. It was the driest I've ever seen it on Saturday, and after all that rain! Random. Here's the original sequence. Second problem in:



Note the finished holds being the jugs in line with the prow, rather than the first crimp over the lip, or the break at half height  .

[Eddies]

Hey, good effort Dobbin. I met you there a few weeks back

Ive since been inspired my the line and climbed it myself, deffo my fav prob on lime and my first lime 7C too. I found the footwork very betary. Once id sussed my sequence out it came quickly (as I guess al these things do!) lots of holds yes, the toe-hook at the start and heel-hook to the break were key for me.

[jimmykay]

Cheers for that video Andy. Some good problems in it!

[r-man]

Top video! I'm pining for the peak now. Liked your Curbar one too.

[Jim]

Dense will be pleased