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Font - problems for beginners? (Read 10122 times)

Cretin

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Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 07:24:20 pm
So i'm thinking of going to Font with some friends for a week or so- I've only been bouldering 2-3 months, and am currently climbing v3 (max) indoor and about v2 outdoor -Will there be problems I can enjoy at font, or just a truckload of frustration?

Also- how is the nightlife/other things to do in the surrounding areas?

thanks guys!

Cretin

fried

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#1 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 07:32:54 pm
Will there be problems I can enjoy at font, or just a truckload of frustration?

Both, in large quantities.

Nightlife: Bring your own beer.

Cretin

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#2 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 07:42:09 pm
Cheers Fried- I can cope with a good challenge, but my biggest worry was that there'd be nothing for me to even attempt. Could you (or anyone else) recommend a guidebook which has a focus on the problems around my level?

and re: the nightlife- is it that bad? local pubs/bars/music scene/anything? 

and how about daytime touristy stuff, and local restaurants?

Will be renting a car so can get around if needed.

Nice one guys!

Johnny Brown

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#3 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 08:08:26 pm
Font is one of the best places in the world for beginners. Not sure which guides are best, but there are lots of marked circuits - try the yellow first, then the orange.

Plenty of bars in Font, not sure about much else though. Always too knackered to leave the gite! Daytime stuff you can catch a train into Paris, check out the Chateau, or take a walk down the Seine. So I believe anyway.

grimer

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#4 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 08:20:40 pm
I've hardly ever used a guidebook in Font, except maybe to pick the venue. If you go to concentrated venues like bas Cuvier, Roche aux Sabots, Cuisiniere, Apremont etc, the lines just call out to be climbed. It's not like other places in that way i think. You'll just see a hold and want to use it. It's so much fun.

PATRuL

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#5 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 08:58:04 pm
...Don't go you'll be scarred for life!!!
But if you happen to go and some how go against the infinite wisdom of my advice please remember there are 3 rules to FOnt Club...
... you must climb naked at all times (if you see anyone baring clothing, you must approach them with caution then quickly set about to relieve them of said items).
.... you must never drop any litter, picking it up naked could cause offence
... and of course give reverend thanks to the splendour of this once sub0ceanic terrain.
And go easy on the cakes ... but its not a rule.

fried

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#6 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 09:36:06 pm
Everything is here.

http://bleau.info/


lukeyboy

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#7 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 09:40:44 pm
I can't imagine anywhere more ideal to go bouldering as a beginner (or non-beginner for that matter)

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 09:58:24 pm
True, friend of ours went with us and had never climbed on rock before and only a few times indoors and she loved it.

tom_greenwich

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#9 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 22, 2011, 10:02:02 pm
I went recently with my family, I boulder at about v4 kids and wife haven't really climbed before. Plenty of climbing for us all. Take the purple fountainbleau climbs guide for problem finding and the essential fountainbleau guide to find areas.

As others have said, be prepared for a spanking and some revelations. I'd recommend l'elephant and roche aux sabot.

lagerstarfish

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#10 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 23, 2011, 11:08:00 am
An excellent chance to post this again

Dancing had never done any climbing (and hadn't done any exercise for several years) before coming to Font for a week. This is all stuff at Elephant - mostly on top of the hill


boulderingbacon

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#11 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 23, 2011, 11:17:12 am
classic video that is, reminds me of the time when my brother slipped on the egg boulder and literally rolled his way over the top. :2thumbsup:

Cretin

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#12 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 23, 2011, 06:20:15 pm
 :clap2: Cheers for all the comments and advice guys! looking forward to booking it now! definately want to try and sample a bit of nightlife/culture as well as climbing, so if anyone has anything to add please do!!

ducko

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#13 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 23, 2011, 07:59:30 pm
by the looks of the place the last thing on my mind would be the nightlife, id be more intrested in taking a headtourch and ashed load of batterys!   :P

Offwidth

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#14 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 25, 2011, 10:47:43 am
I've hardly ever used a guidebook in Font, except maybe to pick the venue. If you go to concentrated venues like bas Cuvier, Roche aux Sabots, Cuisiniere, Apremont etc, the lines just call out to be climbed. It's not like other places in that way i think. You'll just see a hold and want to use it. It's so much fun.

Good advice but I'd add almost ignore the grades in those venues as the polish is so bad in places that a UK font 5 climber can occasionally get shut down by a font 2. If you want to see want font grades were like before the polish go to a real obscure area. I'd also say the curcuits are really good but often super long and sometimes very high. Don't be afraid to back off on some of the higher problems places like Dame Juoanne. I remember a purple problem there (font3?) being a 12m e1 5a solo above a bad landing.

Jim

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#15 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 25, 2011, 07:21:18 pm
I recomend the yellow circuit at haute-plaine

The House

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#16 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 25, 2011, 11:34:54 pm
Circuits are always great way to start in Font. One of the best places in the world to start climbing I reckon. Try the orange circuit at 91.1

chummer

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#17 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 26, 2011, 02:34:02 pm
As Grimer says you don't really need a guide for the problems, especially on your first visit, just try and climb what you like the look of and you think is doable, Font is sooo good for that. The guide is just handy to find the areas.

Evening entertainment can be found at most of the big carparks or even at the road side...otherwise it's a case of "party in Paris!"

grumpycrumpy

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#18 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 26, 2011, 03:52:08 pm
I remember the orange circuit at 95.2 being particulary pleasant , nothing too high and a couple of problems that made me whoop out with delight ..... 

Cretin

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#19 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 27, 2011, 03:40:58 pm
Sounds great :D I don't mind going without a guide, but if i was to buy one, what are people's recommendations?

butters

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#20 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 27, 2011, 11:52:36 pm
You won't go wrong with the purple Font Guide - it's not the most modern of guides but it works well.

erm, sam

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#21 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 28, 2011, 01:31:17 pm
The Jingo Wobbly Font guide (that everybody on here hates) has a lot of info about easy circuits and would be worth a look...

SA Chris

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#22 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 28, 2011, 01:39:00 pm
As shite as the circuit info, stupid symbols, magician games etc are, the maps showing what circuits are in what area are pretty good.

rodma

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#23 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 28, 2011, 02:05:31 pm
I recomend the yellow circuit at haute-plaine

 :agree:

My favourite circuit that one.  I always do it at the start of each trip to get warmed up and into the font way of things.

SA Chris

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#24 Re: Font - problems for beginners?
July 28, 2011, 03:12:22 pm
Are you just a Haute Plaine Drifter?

(sorry don't know what french for drifter is)

 

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