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Buckstones (Nont Sarah's) (Read 15996 times)

fatneck

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#25 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
January 25, 2012, 08:26:13 pm
Great topo. Thanks...

Question:

Planning on taking Mrs Fatneck out on Sat and thinking about going here. The topo looks like there's be loads for her to do but leaves me wondering about scale of boulders and landings? Also, is it particularly exposed?

Thanks for any info...


Grubes

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#26 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
January 25, 2012, 08:55:16 pm
Generally pretty good landings but it is a moorland venue and is exposed. Not sure if you have checked out pule hill but it is about as exposed just over side of the valley. Generally the boulders are not that big here is a video to give some scale (this is one of the highest).


If its windy the boulders will be dry but they may be grim. Also take decent footware as some of the hill side can be boggy

For a hudds area boulder I would recommend holmfirth at this time of year, nice veiws, good landings. it gets the sun from just after lunch ish also a bit lower so a little bit warmer.
Hope that helps.

GCW

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#27 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
January 26, 2012, 08:54:45 am
That spotting still makes me laugh  :-[

schloosh

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#28 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
January 26, 2012, 09:10:55 am
Cheers.

Like Grubes says it's a moorland venue so quite exposed and gets a lot of wind, this means it's quick drying but can be pretty baltic on a cold windy day.
The problems are generally quite low with flat grassy landings.

Holmfirth is not too far away and is usually more sheltered but still quick drying.

Forecast is not too bad at the moment, check the twitter feed on the KC homepage (http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/home) on Saturday morning as I normally post what the weather is like.

I could/should try sort out some sense of scale in the topo pictures I suppose......

(that's not spotting, that's staying out of the way!)  ;)

fatneck

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#29 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
January 26, 2012, 09:33:02 am
Cheers guys, still undecided at the mo as it looks like it's going to be pretty bloody freezing! Need to put a list together of wife/child friendly venues methinks...

Your "spotting" made the wife laugh Gareth :-)

Big Dave

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#30 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
January 26, 2012, 10:30:37 am
I've been up there a few times when it's cold and windy, wasn't much fun. As said very exposed, not really any sheltered parts, but landings generally good.



GCW

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#31 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
January 26, 2012, 11:03:07 am
Your "spotting" made the wife laugh Gareth :-)

Initially, we were more concerned that Nik would land on his head from that slap, so once he grabbed the JUG I stepped away to avoid the dab.  It's not my fault he decided to let go  ;)  You'll note the significant change in spotting position for the successful ascent!

Grubes

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#32 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 24, 2013, 10:16:39 pm
My house mate was on okay dokey tonight when the crimpy hold and a large flake of rock it was attached to came off (photos below) he is really keen to do the problem but has no chance in its current state. He is wondering if it could be glued back on.
Obviously this is not a common practice for grit and he has never done it before. He has taken the flake home. It is a reasonably clean break with plenty of surface that could be glued.
I think the problem could possibly still be do-able with out but much harder than 7B.
He will leave it off if people say they don't think it should go back on.

Obviously this will effect all of the link ups too.




Jayefuu

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#33 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 24, 2013, 10:34:20 pm
Cheers Luke. Didn't realise you'd posted. I started a separate thread.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22577.0.html

Your post gives better details so will watch both.

lagerstarfish

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#34 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 24, 2013, 10:42:22 pm
 :offtopic: as usual

that second photo looks great if you turn it upside down - looks like some sort of cool landscape with the sun setting/rising

GCW

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#35 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 24, 2013, 10:46:25 pm
Seal it and leave it, as far as I'm concerned.

BeardyBeast?

nik at work

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#36 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 24, 2013, 11:21:06 pm
I don't think it will glue well, it's sandy rock up there so you'd just be glueing one layer of loose sand to another layer of loose sand, unlikely to end successfully or atractively. I'd leave it (seal it?) and have it reclimbed as is, I'm sure it will still go just be a bit harder, and gives a whole new range of link-ups to be climbed, and we all know how I love that shit.

If I get chance I'll try and pop up and have a look at some point.

Jayefuu

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#37 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 25, 2013, 08:42:30 am
I don't think it will glue well, it's sandy rock up there so you'd just be glueing one layer of loose sand to another layer of loose sand, unlikely to end successfully or atractively.

Cheers Nik. Yeh, I'm not keen to land on my back with it on my chin again any time soon.

Looking forward to see what you can do with the sandy crimp that's now there. Looks far out of my (grade) reach. Will keep hold of the hold in case you change your mind after looking at it.

 :sorry: for being a fatty :D

Grubes

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#38 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 25, 2013, 09:08:01 am
on a different note
has anyone done papa lazarou. It gets 7A in the online guide I did this first go being disappointed not to flash it.
If I can get a problem third go its not 7A I think a down grade to 6B or 6A+ is required.
Anyone agree?

Jayefuu

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#39 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 25, 2013, 10:01:29 am
on a different note
has anyone done papa lazarou. It gets 7A in the online guide I did this first go being disappointed not to flash it.
If I can get a problem third go its not 7A I think a down grade to 6B or 6A+ is required.
Anyone agree?

#57 on the KC topo. 6a seems fair, it's much easier than the 6b up the centre of the wall and easier than On the Job with Pauline. It's certainly never 7a.

Bonjoy

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#40 Re: Buckstones (Nont Sarah's)
June 27, 2013, 01:04:25 pm
I can't see the pictures at work and this isn't a comment on whether you should/shouldn't glue the hold back on. But on the practicality of gluing soft/sandy rock back to similar material it can be done with some hope of success, you just need to stabilise both sides of the join with low viscosity superglue first.

 

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