the shizzle > beta - chuffing
Huecool
TobyD:
beta particularly appreciated for first really hard move from good LH sidepull to undercuts before you move left to the big blunt flakey thing. Currently doing with awful RH crimp and very high rockover.
...And the bit from rest to the large cresecent undercut on the headwall; everyone do a massive move up right to an ear type thing?
maybe i just need a dose of MTFU.
north_country_boy:
I think this section has changed a couple of times in recent years due to hold loss....I certainly know something came off early mid-2010 which seemed to make the crux section trickier....keen to get back and finish it off.
TobyD:
--- Quote from: north_country_boy on July 09, 2011, 11:16:44 am ---I think this section has changed a couple of times in recent years due to hold loss....I certainly know something came off early mid-2010 which seemed to make the crux section trickier....keen to get back and finish it off.
--- End quote ---
It certainly seems a tad reach dependent, and i think a couple of the crimps have crumbled a bit, however, had another session on it now and have a pretty decent sequence which works even in rubbish conditions, give me a shout if you want to get there anytime soon Dan.
Marky:
Toby - got on this on Sunday and thought it was great. I was struggling with the first move onto the headwall after the traverse right - do you have a sequence to get up to the obvious layway/undercut in the middle of the wall? :please:
TobyD:
--- Quote from: Marky on May 28, 2012, 11:18:58 am ---I was struggling with the first move onto the headwall after the traverse right - do you have a sequence to get up to the obvious layway/undercut in the middle of the wall? :please:
--- End quote ---
haha; that'll be the crux then? Off the rest, pootle rightwards to grasp a blade-like undercut LH, and (i think) RH gaston, awkward high feet enables you to make a long span out R for a reasonable sidepull with a good thumb on top of it. I then take a rubbish sidepull LH at pretty much full extension, do a really wide bridge on a LFhold which looks awful but is ok really, on the roof lip; flicking RH to gaston the base of the crescent in the centre of the wall - match it feet up on smears and then a load more boneing little sidepulls and pinches to get to a reasonable edge and 'shake out' on the L before the final headwall. IIRC from a go last year, this section feels pretty ok if it is cool, but really, really hard if it is at all warm or greasy. I imagine both will have been the case on Sunday? did you get the lower powerful rockover / undercut bit ok?
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