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Lleyn Weekender
25 September 2016, 11:11 pm

My beautiful wife announced that I haven't had a weekend off in a while, and suggested I organised something. As luck would have it Fatneck and O-Dog were one their way over the very next weekend for a Friday / Saturday affair; the game was Afoot.

First I had to escape work on Friday, this was sidestepped by two thirty, and Aberdesach was passed at great speed. The drizzle of the mountains gave way to the sunshine of the Lleyn.

Day one was Porth Ty Mawr. this was a Giveaway of sorts back in 2009 that Fatneck picked up on, and O-dog sniffed out independently. Too far out for me in the 'three kids under two' era, but the boys have had a great time developing stuff here.



The landings are typical Lleyn, however the rock are rather nice quartzite, think blocky solid breakwater quarry rather than snappy holyhead mountain. The friction is quite isatis, although the slightest moisture and its slippy yuk. I climbed a few newbies, the sunny wall right of the arete on the block the boys are soaring on above, and a punchy 6C on the block to the right.



I also did the roof centre of shot which involved committing to a heel toe lock on my bad ankle. Its all progress and although its not completely better it is functional and usable. To finish off a brill day, Fatneck even landed a Sea Bass!

The next day We descended on my home turf; : Porth Howel. Literally Descending as its a fair plod down hill to the beach, the boys beat me to it:



The white rib centre frame is the ramp you slither down to the beach, its also the main highball wall

Fatneck scoping out the highballs as I descend...

This would be the first time I'd climb here with anybody else, so I was keen for their thoughts. I'd dug up an old topo and we set about reticking everything, with O-Dog keen as ever, adding sit starts all over the place. I also managed to scratch an itch and complete a line that had me in retreat last time due to wetness. 53rd and 3rd is a 6A!! starting at the pillar  right of Fatneck's head (below)and goes direct with a lot of worrying at the top. Fatneck filmed it so It may appear later. Quite pleased as along with every highball on this wall they were done ground up, with no massive lobs either. I chose this Ramones track as it describes the depths you sink to when feeding an addiction....

O-Dog on the start to The Wall of Something Dead 6A!

O-Dog doing the sit start to Rockaway Beach 6B+/6C!

Mid-day Tab Break for the boys

O-Dog accepting the challenge of the Giveaway project of the month from this time two years ago.

Fatneck's verdict was the succinct "It woz Boss" and Owen was keen for the return to his new project.

Its never going to boast big numbers as it has too many holds, but lovers of granite crimps and slopers may like to check it out.

We caught the rain as we trudged back up the killer hill, but though damp I was we happy to have tried hard for two days in a row, and finally climb with some company too! I'm aching tonight though.

Source: Hosey B

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Brewing next Years Psyche 2016
7 October 2016, 10:27 pm

So with a chapter closing in Mymbyr, I must admit to losing motivation, My drive had stalled, my get up and go had snuggled under the duvet....

Action was required. The Lleyn weekender reminded me of how much I enjoy getting stuck into projects. Getting up 53rd & 3rd, reminded me why I do these things in the first place; the ignition of adventure, like the crack of Indiana Jones' whip. It also reminded me how many silly projects I had littering the proverbial cutting room floor. I felt it was time to pick out the most ludicrous example, dust it off, and see if I could at least tilt at some windmills..

The Super Prow of Cwm Ffynnon!Not only the very first giveaway, back in 2009, but also revisited as an Open Project in 2014.

Now this may have something to do with its location, or potential for you to fall 100m of a 7m highball, but it always bugged me that someone didn't get it done. My main issue was that to approach from pen y pass required a summers evening, and it still took an hour to walk in.

With all this bubbling, I spent some time with some maps and worked out that to walk in from roman camp, would only be 2k with 300m of ascent. Compared to the 4k and 500m of ascent I regularly took up to the Marchlyn project. Admittedly, tarmac is nicer then welsh bog and briar, but it just might work... A plan was hatched.

I packed a bag with some cleaning kit and a small rope and parked up in Free Conwy.



The walk in initially followed the beta approach for Running Jam (INSPRE Feb 16)but instead of busting up ther hillside from the bend in the river, I pushed on into the cwm



Random boulder I spotted on the Satellite images, thought It would make a good waymarker. The Issue was that I hadn't been to the Super Prow for 2 years and never from this direction, and the hills were full of rocks...

More pretty rocks

I had an Idea which bit of hill side it was going to be in and pushed on up.

here we go (wrong)

is that it? (nope)

Finally!

The bad boy from below

I couldn't help myself, and although I am only really considering this an exercise in extreme top roping, I figured out that a patio was conceivable, and got started.



The cleaning rope in place, dangling nicely over the start of next years patio project.

A tad steep, I anchored the end of the abb string at the base and positioned myself in on a tied off italian hitch (not just a pretty face)

The righthand start all clean and chalked up

a good go at getting the lefthand start chalked..

It took me 1hour 40mins to find it this time, however with the patioing and everything I caught myself out and had only 55 mins to pick up the kids from school. As the resultant mad scramble only took me 40 mins to get back to the car, I'm hoping the approach time can be significantly improved on.

That's where it is!(I hope this may jog my memory next time..)

Lets dream big and get some stuff done in 2017! (but don't cock up the school run!)



Source: Hosey B

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Into the Wild
14 October 2016, 8:35 pm

After getting my psyche back with a visit to the Super Prow, I was keen to explore the back of Cwmffynnon some more. The chance arose today, and I must admit I felt like a fox in a hen house, so much interesting rock, just on the horizon. I restrained myself, however, as I knew the cwm is a large place, and I had to get back for work later....

My love for this stretch of the valley is unfailing, and I have spent far too much time ferreting away in Dyffryn Mymbyr. It falls into a series of distinct tracts, stretching back towards Pen y pass from the RAC boulders; There's Craig y Haul - the high altitude meadow, Mymbyr - the area I spent so many years pottering, The Mallory strip - neither Mymbyr or Cwmffynnon and Cymffynnon Proper.

It was over the ridge that marks Cwmffynnon proper that I found this coolio highball slab (visible on the walk into Super Prow):



I got all excited, set up my phone, and got playing...

Trouble's Braids. The rock was so clean and attractive, There was no cleaning or pre inspection, I just pulled on and enjoyed the ride. Hence it took so long... Sorry

Frank's Wild Years. (yes there was a certain CD playing in the car) THis was higher and a bit weird, with a funky runnel to lay off. Hence I took even longer.... Please fast forward.

. This was on the walk back and actually in the Mallory Strip (which is also home to the Big G's Running Jam). I'd forgotten my tripod, hence the long shot. I actually start from a sit in a dip off a proper starting hold. the arete is 90 degrees and slightly overhanging, and once again superbly rough Mymbyr rock. This was also the hardest of the three, but I'm loathe to grade as they were all onsight, and I'm hardly getting much mileage at the moment. Suffice to say they're all 6's.

I'm extremely excited to have a new playground to explore, and with a walking pole and wellies its easy enough to navigate around, and almost as accessible as Mymbyr was. Watch this space...



Source: Hosey B

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Off Piste not Piste Off..
28 November 2016, 7:50 pm

So Since I last blogged, its been work work work, mixed in with a little illness, suspected Lymes (Tick got me in the blooming belly button, not flared up like that before so off for antibiotics) and mucking around with the family.

However, the return of a certain Benny boy got me hankering for company out in them thar hills. My old adventuring partner has spent the last year earning (some)money in foreign climes but has finally returned to his girlfriend Charlotte, meaning I can steal them away again together and show off (in) Cwmffynnon. (As usual, the best photo's are Charlotte's)

Back to the slab of Troubles Braids

Charlotte on Franks Wild Years

Topped out on Troubles Braids, only slightly highball (She's "petite")

Myself back on Troubles Braids, trying not to look a fool...

Ben on a nice crack (having already done the arete in the foreground)

Ben still alive after sitting on the mats rather than falling on them, and enjoying the slide off the tier..

Its good to be Jamming again.

Ben exploring yet another outcrop

Charlotte going first on what became her "Peach Arete"

Complex shadows in this light

The Slab of Tiny Pinches (left of Peach Arete)

Charlotte not taking a lob off of the top of The Slab of Tiny Pinches (this time)

Much fun was had. I was Late for work. we all pulled off the odd pebble, and all had things to come back for.

Wales is alright Y'all.Come and play.

Source: Hosey B

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New Year, New Approach
6 January 2017, 11:32 am

Happy new year and all that. December was a month of Family, work, and thinking about what I want to do next. My ambitions are moving towards closing a number of harder projects, I realise I'm becoming more and more of a boulderer. However, I realise a) I'm getting older and more niggily, and b) my mind remembers being a lot stronger than I am now.

The last concerted effort towards training was for The Beast in Me. That was two years ago. I guess this was because of time pressures, and a series of old man aches, and the fact I don't really like training. A new approach is required.

Its not really training, that's my new approach. Its a series of challenges spaced in time by 2-3 days. Every couple of days I do some circuits, visit a boulder, or go for a stomp. A mix of conditioning and pushing myself in useful ways.

for example:

James boulder, an easily accessible source of good honest ass whipping, if a little limited in scope.For more variety, and a good cardio work out, I'd take this rig up to 600m for a different set of things to fall off.

First attempt at this was met with mizzle and cloud. Made it up to the dam in 39 minutes and then limped down on the scooter, trying not to wipe out in the wet. a shocking 28 minutes. let down by this lack of action I decided for a second cardio hit and went off to the quarries to check out whats changed since the last guide..

Found this helpful bit of lash together level access...

This rather awesome wall is the result of the big fall in lost world, could make a great venue for high 7 sport routes

A week or two later I made it up to the dam in 36 minutes, beautiful sunny day And I chose to play in the shade. However, I was appropriately dressed, and had packed the hand warmers

Unfortunately, I was also incredibly week after a year of injuries and false starts, I managed the old problems, which are on the main standing starts, but the unclimbed sitters were another matter. I was unable to gain any training value from them as although I could lovingly chalk and brush the holds, I couldn't actually pull on any of them. I'll have to go away and get a bit stronger.

An example of the conditions, enough to pull on, not enough to hit with an axe..Scooter decent was dry and 18 minutes ish, Need to leave off the brake a bit more to get down to previous records of 10/11 minutes.

LedgeHammer, 6B ish, one of the things I would eventually like to gain from a sitter.

As I write this I'm at home with a cold, so training's on hold a day or so. I've been enjoying using the Beacon too, as it can't all be outdoors, and I've set myself some pretty effective Power and Power Endurance workouts. slow and steady, that's 2017. That and hopefully some very silly adventures.



Source: Hosey B

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Back in the blood
26 January 2017, 10:43 pm

Training is going slow and frequently derailed, not quite enough obsession kicking round to drive me on. Sometimes its too much fun just being Dad, and bouldering requires me to actually be good, at least for the things on my radar.

Luckily I may have stumbled on a solution, with mizzle and other complications I've been stuck for mini adventure Ideas, for when I only have a short window of quixote time. I've therefore set myself a challenge to compile notes for all the changes and additions that have birthed since the Slate guide got published.

This, started as an act of whimsy, has now reached 20 pages and has resulted in some fine stomps. A bizarre side effect has been that I'm actually getting some psyche back for playing in the quarries. After all things Twll Mawr, I kind of felt I'd drawn that chapter to a close, but the jaunts have reinfected me somewhat. Some examples:

Harlod Walmsey's Routes high up in Heavens Cutting. These will be a good adventure for the low grade sport aficionado, providing they don't shed too many holds. However on the opposite side of the cutting are a load of clean highball aretes and slabs with flat landings. Food for thought

Who bolted this buttress, curious and curiouser

The buttress in question is  in the centre of the pic, above the sadly collapse Alice Springs, a route put up by my dearly departed mate Dave. If I ever bolted again, I'd like to follow that hanging slab left over the void.

Some more of Harold's work. Some really strong looking lines in the middle of Upper Dinorwic in an area he's named Ayer's Rock. The right hand line Kata Tjuta Rib follows an old Giveaway Project of the Month.The left hand wall of the bay looked familiar. Turns out I soloed through here 15 years ago, what became If you Kill People They Die. Nice to see its still standing.

Looking down into Australia from the adventurous mess that is Upper Diniorwic

Another new development is the Plateau slab. Ian Lloyd Jones secured access to this  area, which was previously banned under the Access agreement negotiated in the late 80's.

2 routes in this area previously left out of the guide were mentioned in the old black book, I was intrigued by Stay Big..

And here it is! This whole section looks ripe for some highballing, but the one pad I'd bought with me wasn't enough to persuade me to engage quite yet.

And so on to the main event! I had been invited to come and play for the morning, by my work mate Alex. What me? going to climb popular classics? I had great fun, leading Pull My Daisy (which I'd last led 20 years previously) and cleanly seconding Splitstream. I was particularly pleased with this as I feel pretty much fresh from the couch, and it also marks my first Redhead route!

So Slates back in the blood. Lets see what adventure awaits!



Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

G'd exploring sir. Some of that new sport stuff looks horrendous. Bring on the nu wave of slate highballing.

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New Friends, Old Friends, and the European Enclave of Mordor
10 February 2017, 8:35 pm

Took another wander today to look at Harold's new routes in the top of Lost World, a tad frosty, this morning, and hoar frosted slate scree certainly made some of the scrambling quite exciting

Some of the rocks scars left in Lost world do not seem as settled as I first thought...

I was also tickled to see the European flag flying over the Kyber Pass. Beyond on the Willow plain, JCB's are creating an impressive grid of track ways and buildings. The plan seems to be to stabilise Yr Ceiliog (Trango Tower) so it stops falling on First Hydro's office roof. I doubt its been that busy down there since Willow itself was filmed.



The main aim of the morning was to check out how The Beast in Me was fairing. Its been 2 years or so since I put this baby to bed, and as it has had no suitors in the meantime, I was keen to check it wasn't returning to nature too badly, or indeed falling down. It turned out the rope I had bought with me was too short, however, in the hut above was the rope I had used to access it back in 2014. The hut was dry and as it was on top of a pinnacle, goat free. After checking it for mouse chews, I popped over the edge.

The moss managed to avoid all the holds you actually use! I was also please to find the rock all in one piece. Its impressively non flaky for this part of the quarry.





Even more impressively the crux off width was squeaky clean! This may have had something to do with its overhanging, sheltered nature, or maybe something to do with this:

Heartily recommended if you want to keep your slate project slime free for seemingly years...

Other routes have not fared so well. Ticks Groove and Prometheus Unbound have spilled their guts.

So there it is, if you want to repeat a hardish route in Mordor, The Beast in Me (HVM) is cleanish and not in any immediate danger of falling down. There's even an abb rope (a little green and stiff...)

Enjoy



Source: Hosey B

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Stepping off Once Again
18 February 2017, 12:12 pm

So after a few forays round the slate quarries, and maybe a resurgence of psyche for slippery sharp adventure, I decided that I needed a new plaything in the Mountains. Something new to be afraid of and drawn to in equal measure.

Behold the Shard:

Nicely Highball. Suitably Difficult too, however there was some doubt as to whether it would allow ascent or try to crush me like a bug. First mission was to climb to the top round the back and give it a kick. This proved to be adventurous...



It did survive the kick test though, so I started finding out what was keeping it up. The shard is in front of this big block,



It is lapped in place by the big block...

And the big block is sort of tied in...

So first tests are proving positive, next the landing.. Massive surf board. Enter the Jack!





Landing sorted. Now I just have to try it. It is safe to say I am rather excited, and a little crapping it. The landing is still bumpy but not a patio candidate for many reasons: 1) It'd look rubbish2) The lumps are only mat depth, so 3 mats should sort it.3) We are in bog land, no material, and it'd stand out like a turd in a punch bowl.

Still lots in Cwmffynnon

There's Treasure Everywhere

Source: Hosey B

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Taking a Bite
27 February 2017, 12:13 pm

You know in the movies when the hero confronts the bully in the car, and the bully gets out of the car, well unfolds his giant frame out of the, frankly small, car. One of those bitten off a bit much moments...

I went in to abseil the Shard last Friday, on the dry day of the latter half of February.

My highball mat seemed very small, and the rope dangled far out from the bottom. 6m high, and about 50cm overhanging at its furthest point maybe. Good solid, rough rock. Not many holds..

By the time I'd found all the useful holds and got them chalked, I was certainly questioning how quickly I could get this done. My calculations soon indicated a need for many more mats and a spotter for proper injury prevention. I'll need at least 4 mats, with a bit of shuffling. I also need to get much more stronger. There's a mono pocket undercut for flip sake...

To console myself I checked out this other block I'd spotted on the last visit. Nothing like a quick send to boost the spirits..

This wonderfully faked footage shows the length of the initial dyno I'd need to make. From there  is another huge chuck to the top. Poor feet throughout. I went and repeated The Goodie to cheer myself up, and then ran of to work (literally, at least as far as the car..)

The View from the top of the Shard. The Right hand circle is the Super prow (this years Patio Project), and the left is a boulder field that I found a photo of from a previous visit recently, some steep rock there.

Enjoy

Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

Good stuff hosey. Is the shard line the very blunt rib? Looks nice.

[Hoseyb]

Blunt rib rising left to right, into a mantle at 4-5m. Latch the mantle and furiously rearrange pads for the mantle move itself.  Did I say it's got a mono undercut move?  yes I've got a little motivated.

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Skill Acquisition; The Wuxi Finger Hold
2 March 2017, 10:35 pm

So Years ago I pretty much pinched James' Boulder. Did the sitters, built the patio, the whole territorial pissing thing. What was left was the aesthetic central line with attractive starting holds, and a damn ugly squatting start. This was the Skadoosh Project. I'm still no closer to doing it, In fact I'm a little further away, as once more years ago, I actually latched the crux dyno.

However, as an exercise in patience, I thought I would apply a little psyche to the issue, and maybe slowly sneak up on my would-be adversary.

This is the opening skirmish; a little video showing what I can do, rather than focusing on what I can't. That'll be the crux dyno then, and linking it all of course. But as Bobo the Bear says "Baby Steps Sir, Baby Steps".

I'm posting quite a lot at the moment as I'm actually getting out a bit, certainly more than normal. I'm also getting a little excited again, Finding the of climbing once more.

Watch this Space

Not for too long though, it may rain or the kids get sick or I break myself again, or I may just forget to post. I wouldn't want you to get bored.



Source: Hosey B

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New Toys, New Ploys
9 March 2017, 11:16 pm

Wednesday I got out for a wander. No ordinary wander, this was a wander in wellies to ascertain how much of a ball ache it really is to slog up to the Super prow from Pen y Grwyd. I have nominally nominated the Super Prow to be the recipient of this years patioing efforts. The reasons for this is that now one will ever go beyond a top rope on this thing without the landing being sorted a bit. That, and its such a ridiculously monumental task, I'd really have to try hard to top it afterwards...

"Oh yes, I thought I'd spend my precious free time in 2017, moving 2 tonne of boulders around at 650m altitude, a mere 2km or so from sensible things like roads.."

after half an hour of bog slogging, our objective is sighted...

This trip was also the first outing for my new camera. For years now I've relied on my camera phone to record the monumental delights I've encountered. On the whole its been great, but avid followers may have noted the old phone is occasionally corrupting some of the masterpieces lately, and as I've just moved to a sim only contract, I ain't getting an upgrade anytime soon. Cue a trawl of ebay and 20 quid later I now own a Pentax Optio P80 ; 12.1 mega pixels in my pocket now, with a x4 optical zoom too. All in a tiny package easy to slip in my pocket.

All this is distracting from the fact I was now sweating buckets and had lost the cup off the end of my walking pole. Still the objective was now tangibly close.

Behold the Super Prow

I neither took this approach or used it to egress. However, I had a nightmare on both, so this might be a better Idea.

The start of a patio...

The Idea of slogging up here for a bit of neolithic engineering was seeming more and more daft. Especially as if your feet came off out of control you'd probably swing off down the valley without some form of leash on...

lying on the lip of the patio, looking at the sky..

It had taken me 70mins to reach the patio site. this left me 20mins to shuffle rocks before the sprint to work had to commence.

The prow and the car. I made it between these points in 45mins.

A couple of shots (using the zoom) of a potentially fruitful craglet cluster



(from higher up)

I'll leave you with a shot of the Troubles Braids area. Still lots to do even here...



Come and play (bring Wellies)

Source: Hosey B

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Skadoosh!
30 March 2017, 3:37 pm

Sooo I only went and sent my Clegir project!

Only 4 weeks ago that I reported I was applying a little psyche to this long term project ( a mere 3 years not as long as Some). This mainly involved repeated watching of my link attempts vid, plenty of boulder setting at the wall, and replacing the Slivers with The Slivers mk2.

Once again I think that success came down in part to improved core. However, trying really hard was also a big factor. Skadoosh is basically a 3 move bloc. Hold the starting holds and weight the foot dink off to the left, Dyno to the crux hold of the Filling, bring your left up to the adjacent slopey crimp, then dyno for the finish of the Filling. All of these elements brought their own challenges.

The day of success was Monday. Dry and sunny, not much wind, but pretty low humidity. It was an unexpected trip out as I thought I was on baby duty, but got a last minute pass. Upon arriving at the boulder I was keen to try some further links on the project, but discovered I'd failed to bring my tripod to gather some footage (data folks!) or my brushes to squeak the holds.

Resigned to a bit of a slap about I started my warm up on the 6B+ James' Sit Down, and lapped it a few times. I then moved onto the 6C the Filling which shared some ground with the project. Got this a couple of times and then chalkballed rubbed and bashed the project.

First plan was to link to the end from after the crux dyno. I got this second go I think, and ditched shoes for a rest, hydration and a wee(weight loss you see).

I was feeling quite good about the top, and thought I should really go for it from the bottom, as if I didn't really believe I can do it, why was I there?

First few slaps were ineffectual as I wasn't getting the foot/ body position right. This started to come together and I was getting a confident launch. Next slap was short, but almost on target. I then slapped the hold! didn't hold it but that was a case of more belief, surely.

Rest,  boots off, fiddle with the camera wedged in the tree. Check data.

Slap! Hold! boom! fell on my bum. This was a good sign, if I wasn't committing I'd land on my feet so giving proper guns.

Slap! Hold! Match! Step through! Launch!

Splat!

Still a good sign, I just needed to land the initial slap precisely to give a good enough hold for the final launch. My Biceps were still fresh as daisies, it was my contact that was preventing proper power. Some goes I even was able to readjust on the hold, my left giving good transfer; power maintaining contact.

I'd texted the missus to say sorry but I was Really Really Really close to success and was staying out a bit longer. Pressure was building with a few dabs sapping my confidence, and causing me to thin out the landing, only to drop between mats next attempt.

20-30 attempts down the line, I resigned myself to getting it next visit, and at least I had some good data to peruse. Unfortunately I then went to peruse said footage and accidentally deleted it.

Sore of skin and fingers, mentally a little battered too, I was a bit put out.

I talked myself into giving it one last good go, so I could take away at last some footage. I wedged the camera in the tree again and stepped up to the plate....

Skadoosh 7A+

Looking back, the removal of the pressure of succeeding may have tipped the balance, either that or the rock just got bored of shrugging me off.

Well chuffed. On top of this, 2 weeks ago I managed to send one of Big G's open offwidth projects that he put on the latest Boulder of the Month. More when I get the piccies back off a mate.

Keep trying hard!

Source: Hosey B

[Hoseyb]

  there is a vid to go with all the text.  Best visit the blog I guess,  although Fiend seems able to sort em.

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Ain't Nothin But a G Thang
10 May 2017, 12:58 pm

February's Boulder of the Month dropped into my life like a Mentos into a bottle of Coke. I'd been looking for an A-frame boulder choke to get my offwidth on since I'd found Happy feet at Feidr Fw almost a decade ago. Now not only had G found one, but he'd made it public. Frantic texts confirmed it was still unclimbed. Martin Crook had slithered West to East in a child's wetsuit to create "The Chubby Behemoth". It was the journey East to West; rising through the flare, That had both G and I excited.

Two days later Messrs Crook, Smith and Loxton rolled into the wall and the jostling began, My expressed interest was met by wry grins and sucking of teeth. George was keen to compare it to the hallowed 90's desperates of technicality and strain, and Bet me a Quid I wouldn't do it.

I started stretching.

Crook was keen for the crack and Invited Action Pic Legend Glen Robbins along for the ride. Wednesday (15th March, I've been waiting for Glenn's pics) was decided on as it may not rain... (This is Wales).

I gave up stretching, what would 3 days of stretching do?

See? Glenn Robins is so good he can even make me look purty. All pics are his, ask him before you rob them.

Wednesday came and the sun shone. Martin was dismissive of the need for wellies for the approach, and trusting his experience I left them in the car. 5 minutes later, I was bouncing between diminutive pebbles bobbing in the muck, wobbling islands of cleanliness. Mental note, if this was going to be a siege, bring wellies.

Tucked away in the scree below Craig y Gesail the boulder poked into view, Tighter and deeper than I'd imagined from the pics, Damn wide angled lens. Crawling through I saw what my have stopped Big G, as the clearance was a bit on the low side. fortunately my torso was an altogether shorter package, and he could dig it out after I've snatched it right?

With a quid at stake, I set about brushing and analyzing, visualizing and scheming. I knew it was going to be an awkward invert, and although I had some ideas how to pivot for the exit, I saw I was going to have to fight.

First go got me into the invert, and shortly onto my head. A swift talk to myself, and a leaf through the mental toolbox of cloven hoof technique saw me set off of take two. Man I shuffled hard! trying to pull the slopers into a chicken wing I felt both Quads cramp and snarl. Head plant no. 2.



It was a pretty attractive area. Ideal for lingering in and licking wounds. Martin and Glenn were perfect to shoot the breeze with, and in between shooting said breeze, I mused on the exit. Encouraged by Martin, I hand standed into my highpoint to play with some pivot ideas. Dropping one hoof I lunged for the arete, and almost got it too, before my shoe crept off my heel and I plopped out once more.

Well it was a good spot for a siege, but I knew it was possible... Rest. Breeze must be shot.

Quid's a quid, Lets Do it.









Randy Roof is easier than Georges Crack, and Comparable or maybe a touch harder than Big Bad Bari. Its named after my recent inspiration from Randy Leavitt; Offwidth legend and recently kicking some serious butt crack on Instagram. Cruising wide aged 55 or so. Still time for me then...

Turns out The flurry of chalk attracted other would be contenders. While hardly a trade route it pleased me to find this link to bagging the second ascent, and demonstrates how strong  he is by facing the other way...

I'm a Happy Bunny.



Source: Hosey B

[SA Chris]

Excellent you mad bugger.

[Fiend]

Hosey B, spotted by the Crook, doing the FA of a Big G Boulder Of The Month. Dreams are made of that 

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The Cut Throat World of Esoteric Bouldering
18 May 2017, 11:21 pm

Its a harsh reality that I dwell in an area where esoteric boulderists are rife. Throw a rock into any boggy, pebble-strewn hillside in North Wales and your bound to hit one, flagrantly prospecting....

So when I heard a rumour that Noel "The Doctor" Craine and Mark "Daisy" Lynden were running sorties into My current stomping Ground of Cwmfynnon, I was compelled to action!

Sort of...

Obviously there's treasure everywhere, and I have been known to brazenly fling the hard one fruits of my own prospecting to the masses like a bride with her bouquet. However I had found something special last winter and was keen to head the rustlers off at the pass.

Ben Ryle, my medium to long term partner in adventuring was recruited and we headed off today high into the bowels of Cwm Fynnon. High, because the boulders in question were at the same altitude (contour even) as the Mallory Boulder. Luckily Ben has his ML so I let him lead.

Height gained we quested inward

This turned out to not be the boulder we were looking for, However, it was quite close.

This is the Boulder!



We chose the left side slab as our warm up, It proved to be trixome and a little snappy under foot. much plopping off ensued. Ben Is just about to plummet in this pic...

I eventually bagged the summit. Here is the FA vid of "Pop 'til you Drop" 6A+ish

After that it was onto the main event. I Dragged Ben up because I really wanted to do this overhanging blue collar offwidth. It started at fists and flared to 7 inches. it was tall, and it was scary.

Here is the FA Vid:

There Will Be Blood 6Cish with a ! for Fear!

The widening of the crack coupled with the gentle overhang meant that I was whitey-ing in seconds. A climbing robot would have inverted early, stacked, and spun back round into a knee lock at  around 4m. I swam, laybacked, compressed and threw a calf lock in, all of which just convinced me I had to top out or face calamity. Fair to say it was emotional.

After that I had a bit of a lie down, and left Ben to bag the rest of the FA's

Here he is on Conventional Acrobatics 6B ish, complete with comedy tripod collapse:

And here I am bravely repeating it, despite still being pumped and jiggidy from There Will Be Blood. You can see the angle of the wall (and the offwidth) in this pic.

After this we popped down a level and Ben got his own Highball done in the form of this fairy pretty slab "The Slab That House Built" 6B! ish:

The name cam from the tunes pumping out his phone during the.

I was spent by this point, and only half heartedly attempted the slab. Retreat was called for, However, our path down took us past Big G's Running Jam, and I couldn't resist talking Ben into us having a play. Much fun ensued, as can only be had by tired hill walkers, physically spent battling scary boulders, attempting to jam horizontally over a bog:

I feel the need for a more conventional outing.. Just not yet.

(Anyone wishing to repeat these unconventional delights, quest up to the Mallory Boulder, then contour into the bowl of Cwmfynnon. After 250m they should be just above you.)



Source: Hosey B

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Somewhat Monsieur Mangetout
15 June 2017, 8:49 pm

So Here I am, ostensibly a boulderer, looking for bouldering projects, abet often highball ones. Alright I also like a bit of adventure, a bit of wild trad, some thrutch and totter.

... But a Sport Climber?

For the first time since the Beast in Me, I've got the drill out. It was supposed to be a highball project, but I soon decided that the difficulty at height that it presented was too much like Yves Klein.

So the little highball project became a little bolty proj. A little plaything.

Actually its a Monster.



Its only 6-7 meters, but it overhangs by just under a meter and only has about 3 horizontal crimps on it. I placed two bolts for runners, and a lower off bolt. It was around this point I realised It was pointlessly hard. I mean, surely a project is something you can play on, enjoy, and get done in a reasonable time frame?I've had two sessions on it now, I filmed the first, waste of time that was. I ended up chopping a few stills out (below) and ditching the footage. I wasn't climbing, I was clawing. Second visit was on a windy day as midge season is upon us. Unfortunately the bay is sheltered, and the midges descended like 1000 Tom Randall's demanding "One More Rep!"Driven by these micro drill sergeants I grappled once more. Surely its too hard? I should give it away... But everyone needs a challenge.Rather than drown under the immensity of eating a Cessna 150 Airplane, I endeavored to break the scale of the task into bite size pieces:It seems..7A+ to 7B to the first boltthen7A+ to 7B to the second boltthen7A+ to 7B to the lower off

Ok that didn't help.RightIndividual body positions in each section.first is 9, I've held one so FarSecond is 11, I've held three so FarThird is 15, I've held nine so Far

Total Hand Moves is 17I've managed:0 in first section1 in Second section4 in third section

Something to work on then Once the Midges subside.I feel rather like a prisoner of war who's stolen a SpoonAll quite FunProject: "Swamp Thing" is on







Midgy bitesies



Source: Hosey B

[Sasquatch]

Ha! I have 4 of those types of lines currently

I bolted 2 of them 15 years ago, and the other two were bolts as projects over 25 years ago

After all of this time I've done most of the moves, and even done good links on several.  Always nice to have a few immense projects

[Hoseyb]

Thanks for the encouragement Mr Quatch. I hope to announce the first significant link by Christmas.  If this winter goes as planned I hope to have held half the body positions by easter.  Yes I'm an optimist

[Andy F]

Hosey its time to unleashed the inner beast. Think the immortal words 'I am Jerry fucking Moffatt' and get that mother crushed. You can do it, make it so.

[Hoseyb]

Cheers Andy. The Beast still resides.  It just needs a run up, and some rathercarefully structured training