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Testing, Training and Trixibelle
15 May 2015, 11:21 pm

So I got my shoes back from Llanberis Resoles:



Really nice job, the new edge is crisp and an integral part of the front of the shoe, rather than an added piece, and the new knuckle patches, don't change the fit or crush my toes. I was keen to put them through their paces, so I stomped up to Big Bad Bari..



So it did take a while to get there, I'm not going to lie. Some fitness is going to be required one of these days, but this trip has certainly whetted my appetite. I warmed up by climbing Bari from the chockstone, then got stuck in from the start.

I ended up throwing 3 laps on it, Just great climbing, and the knuckle patches may have made it a bit easier, or I'm just awesome... Anyway it was great training.

I then moved onto Trixibelle who is Tick no. 9. This project is based around the great keel of Bari Island, starting off the lowest chalked up holds



This section is an exercise in body tension, slopers, and a lot of center of gravity stuff (not throwing myself into the bushes). Needless to say I threw myself into the bushes a lot. I'm finding that the problems that excite me up here really expose my weaknesses; core and flexibility will have to be worked to continue here.



As to where Trixibelle will go, I'm moving away from ideas of busting for the lip direct, as that seems about E8. Instead if I continue questing below the lip I can stay above mats and in reach of non IRATA spotters. There is also a direct version close to the finish of BBB, but the big journey currently appeals more.

Continuing to work my weaknesses, I turned my attention to the thin crack on the right. I'd been annoyed that the block underneath means you can only really access the front 3 feet or so. But then I got the crazy idea of trying to link into it from BBB:

Continuing in the tradition of naming projects here after boats eaten by Big Bad Bari, this one is henceforth known as Miss Boo Boo. Kicking off my account I managed to top from starting with my left hand on the pinch immediately below the lip. My right hand was in the fingerlock in the crack at the terminus of the crimp rail diverging from BBB.I tried a lower start with my left hand on a crimp above the fingerlock, but although I could hold it static, I couldn't move off it. The reasons for this lie a little bit to finger strength, but mainly arm and core. I finished myself off by starting with a heel toe in BBB, left hand on the crimp rail and yarding into the fingerlock. My core is almost up to this, but my tight forearms made getting into the backhand fingerlock awkward, requiring a flatter body.

All in all, the very things I require for future projects can be honed here: slopers, core, strength and flexibility. Furthermore, the hurdles are small and the goals attainable (reaching for apples, not the moon).

I think Mymbyr season is well and truly open.

A Caterpillar just below Bari Island, so grass, heather, reeds or bilberries for you then..

 The Mighty Quack Crack Bloc, might play here too as things improve..



Source: Hosey B

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Tick Report - May
1 June 2015, 11:53 am

So its been a weird Month....

The Bads

My psyched-for trad project got a dusting of someone else's bolts

My back, or more specifically my pelvis is still killing me periodically

My elbows have flared up at inopportune moments

My Work life has got unhelpfully stressful

I'm Feeling Weak

The Goods

I have some cool boulder projects where I am making progress

My Tribe is going to be joined by my first daughter (4th child)

I'm making progress on my journey towards Development coach

Sam and I had our first mini-break away from the kids in 6 years

I'm getting regular free physio (thanks NHS)

Our house is having a bit of a posh make over.

So there we go.

As a result of all the mess in Twll Mawr, and with Little Miss Dicken due in September, I've sacked off the trad for this year. That's not to say I might have the odd jolly, but I've given away my projects, and will be leaving Twll Mawr alone for a bit. The fact is that with the imminent arrival of Little Miss, I'm bordering on contentment, at least my perspectives have been altered.

I am also trying to get some consensus on ethics for Twll Mawr, and will be raising it at the next BMC Cymru meeting. My views on Twll Mawr, specifically the Back wall, have be documented on this blog many times (eg here and here). I'm aware that the new sport routes have proved popular, and I know pretty much all the ascentionists of the trad routes personally, and could probably get them all into a quite small room. However, the climbing is unique and special, and historically routed in the ethics and mindset of climbing in North Wales.

Currently the Back Wall looks something like this:

Cue the scrappy topo..The Routes1 Taith Mawr (2008) Trad2 Long in the Twll/ the North will rise Again (March 2015) Sport3 Tân y Ddraig (4^th May 2015) Sport4 Hamadryad (1971) Trad5 Desolation of Smaug (April 2014) Sport6 Antiquarian Direct (September 2014) Trad7 Twll Love (September 2014) Trad8 The Baron (1^st May 2015) Trad9 The Razors Edge (1971) Trad10 The True Finish (1989) Trad11 Bushmaster (1982) Trad12 Scorpion (1981) Trad

A= Retro bolted belay first used for True finishB = Retro bolted belay first used for Twll Love

When Smaug appeared, I was concerned that it might effect existing routes, and to some extent it did, although not so much as to harm their character. I was also saddened that it removed some of the risk for subsequent new routes, and that it was in an area that was pushed heavily into in a ground up ethic. The result was Antiquarian Direct, and Twll Love.It must be said, however, that the reduction of risk may have prevented catastrophe on the 2nd pitch of Twll Love (or prevented an awesome display of onsighting and my hardest route to date, we'll never know).Smaug also opened the bottle. I chatted to the first ascentionist at the time about what it meant for the future, and expressed my opinion that all right of smaug should be left of future trad. At the time I thought this view was shared. When the Long Twll team starting their bolting mission, They sent me many long emails, agonising over how existing trad routes could be avoided, and encouragingly, also how potential trad lines could be given space too. On the whole this worked too.But the lure of the longest sport route in the UK was obviously too much.Maybe also the lure of the arete too, many people had tried to get to it via traditional means over the years, with True Finish coming closest.

Enough maudlin mumbling, if all those existing trad line weren't enough to tempt you, here's an unadulterated version to spot the blanks, and the actual lines I scribbled over..I've deliberately kept these picture files big so you can search around, The lines on the back wall are all strong, but hidden by perspective tricks. This is the best angle I'e found so far to reveal them. There's a strong line on the right that Mr brown got within half a pitch of the top, for instance...

Next MonthGet up somethingStop achingStop moaning



Source: Hosey B

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Training part 2 - George's Crack
8 June 2015, 11:44 pm

Today I bit the bullet and trudged off to work someone elses boulder problem. Yes, I know, it is normal to try established classics, even to have a series of sessions to achieve that elusive goal...

George's Crack is quite hard, quite technical, and quite long. The old guide has it at V5, which on pressing Mr Panton, was an arbitrary offering and a bit of a wheeze. However, F7A does seem about right for the level of brainwork, burl, and fitness it requires, and it is rather specialist.

I've been on it twice before; the first time was mainly flailing, as the description was obviously written by the large of fist, and long of limb. It took a long time to realise I was better off innovating, as one persons fist was someone elses butterfly.

Next visit was with the Wide Boyz, being a good North Wales Wide host. Wide pony was the buzz word , and Pete did laps on it with a weight vest on. A quite heavy weight vest. It goes to show the fitness and bullheaded nature required to get Century Crack done (even dragging a weight vest up to George's crack in the first place) This trip I got nowhere as my ankle was a bit dodgy and didn't like being hung off.

Today I went up determined to get some training value out of it. I started by going through my physio routine, sprawled on a bouldering mat up in the mountains, my mobile's metronome measuring off a myriad of hamstring stretches. The routine takes about 10-15 minutes and is a twice a day affair at the moment; its hard to fix yourself when you're 40.

It was a good warm up though, and mixed in with some dishes, and arm waving, I moved onto taping up. The gloves I started on the last Tosheroon attempt were shaping up nicely, and fortunately didn't smell of barnacles. Camera phone wedged on a rock and rolling, the training commenced.

1st Attempt. 1 minute 20 sec. Tried to get into wide pony, but my ankle, hip flexors or the width of the crack meant it wasn't working.

Rest 5 minutes.

2nd Attempt. Time unknown (camera fell over) played with keeping both feet leading heel first and it seemed to work, but still struggling to make proper use of my hands.

Rest 15-20 minutes, looking for better rocks to prop my phone with.

3rd Attempt. 3 minutes. Pretty chuffed with staying on this long in invert. Discovered I could get a hand-hand stack in after the starting jugs, and I was away. A lot of struggle and experimenting got me to the end of the widening and above mat one, the stack after the widening remained elusive. I was also aware that if I got to this point, going further would be scary...

Rest 16 minutes.

4th Attempt:

So kick up and walk the heel toes (heel first), advancing them with some cheeky wide pinches, until a sit into a hand-hand stack is possible. Walk on the hooves until you have to leave the stack, where some sneaky cups against the knees keep things moving. Once past the widening its hand-fist stack time....

Only I didn't quite get there, firstly because I was trying to arrange the stack wrong, secondly because I need to work further on my hamstrings, and thirdly because I was knackered. Still I got to the same place as attempt 3 in 2/3's of the time.

The main goal of this training is to totally crush Tosheroon, the secondary goals are to complete George's crack, and give me more motivation to do my physio exercises. All I need is a bit more invert sit up practice, longer hamstrings, and a spotter, because that top out looks scary on your own!

Source: Hosey B

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How deep is your Love?
14 June 2015, 9:45 pm

I took My Brother to Nant Gwytheyrn on Friday..



Daphne the miniature Schnauzer came along for a walk, didn't bag any seal or sheep, or gulls, but did eat a few egg cases...

So we wandered along the beach to the end, and being low tide, I couldn't help myself but have a quick scramble to check out the depth under the potential deep water soloing..

The end of the beach, and the start of the adventure

First peek...

The kelp wafted gently below the cliff, it was still a couple of hours before low tide, and there was at least a couple of meters of water in the zawn, and a couple of meters of barnacles above the water. very promising for a high tide venue

Wandering over the top, muchos steepness, and it looks above the deep...

A quick paddle on the other side gave a good view into the zawn, certainly worth a visit once the sea temps improve mid July..

After a nice meal at the cafe, we moved on to Trefor, as it was the home of our Great Granddad, and Chris hadn't been before. This allowed me to pop down to Tick 10...

Not good. the pebbles have risen another 2-3 feet. Basically written off unless there's a mahoosive storm at the right turn of tide. We continued along the cliffs and spotted this little bay..

A new hope? might require an interesting approach.....

Source: Hosey B

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Tick Report - June
3 July 2015, 11:28 pm



So here we are, half way through the year. This month I have mainly been aspiring. That is I really want to climb stuff, but I am not yet up to scratch. Therefore its been training, reconnoitering, and cogitating.

Georges crack and Big Bari have been my training ground for advanced suffering, such as I would need for Tosheroon. After the first session on Georges, I had set up another date, with partners and every thing. But, then one of my Son's lost the school's dog (a stuffed one) and I had to bail to Pwllhelli Haven to see if they had found it. Returning with all the dogs paraphernalia (but no dog) I stopped in at Shale city to follow up on the point of interest raised while out with my brother.

This ended up with me down here with nothing but my rockboots and a smile...

No obviously this wasn't low tide, or high tide, but somewhere inbetween...

Here's what it looks like on a pretty damn low tide. on this previous exploration I assumed this was the low tide norm....

The traversing around was fun, and I had hoped to coincide with enough low tide to explore at a wade. However, the water proved to be fairly deep.

The dark slash roof is the one of the first cave

almost shown in this pic...

So the sideways shuffling not only gave crap pics, but didn't give me access to the suspected bouldering... Yes I ended up swimming, but even though my phone claims to be waterproof, I was too chicken to take it with me. What I saw was that the suspected bouldering was another mirage, but this cave system may give some cool DWS, although with it being Shale city, the top out may be a little interesting...

Exciting enough to inspire this Ebay purchase (£28)

First it was the scooter, now a rubber dingy, Is this the normal actions of a 40 year old man? probably..

Talking of being old, or at least feeling it, more progress with the physio this month. Having done my 20 min physio exercise routine twice a day for a fortnight, we discovered that it wasn't really cutting the mustard, so I've been bumped up once more through the NHS ranks to the next level of specialist staff. All I want to do is not be afraid of coughing my back out in the morning.... On a plus side, I'm back setting at the wall, and it seems I still enjoy it, and am not damaging myself further. I also can lead 6c+ in a laden Navaho harness unclipping the static on the way, so what training I'm doing is obviously sticking.Although I think its pinch gripping the towel I use for 5 minutes of hamstring stretches twice a day that's having the real effect.

Following climbing the Baron, I've sort of got disenchanted with dealing with Twll Mawr. There's been a lot of argy bargy, and opinions flying about. I'm hoping that the next BMC Cymru meeting on the 16th of July will be a chance to settle things down. On the plus side Ian Lloyd-Jones has put up an ace looking trad crack pitch on the south side of Twll Mawr; Lost in the Echo. Its a line I've often admired in the past, and would link very nicely into Tales of the Golden Monkey.

The other thing all this stirring of the pot has brought up was a desire to see one last Joe Brown foray turn into a route. So I got out Reeve's magic Abb rope again



And as if by magic, it reached the ground (just) clearly a bit longer than 100m...Watch this space.

So half way through.I started with 14 projects, and none of them have been mined out. One however was returned to the dealer for another card. I've had three(ish) successes, and a fair bit of milage, but I'm finding my original psyche for the projects ebbs and flows. Especially with the dues i'm having to pay to get them done, be it ground work, training, battling the tides, or simply being arsed. My windows of opportunity are slimming down, so those more time heavy ticks are slipping somewhat.

I chose to get some science on the list:

...So The List now in order of Personal Psyche

1. TosheroonWhat more could you wan't? pain, suffering, technical difficulty, a narrow tide window and its also quite burly. Got to get Georges crack done first as its a good benchmark (topical) for this sort of suffering, and it isn't tidal.

2. Marchlyn Mawr.This could be my first proper hard new boulder problem. Training is ongoing, and I'm keen for a social visit to get some extra opinions, and introduce others to the pretty good circuit that's developing

3. TrixibelleNever thought I'd take this seriously, but it works my weaknesses so well, whats not to like?

4. Nant GwrtheyrnBring on warmer sea temperatures! a proper ready made playground. I've been advised that DWS on your own is a bit stupid, so I'll be recruiting some mates.

5. Trefor DWSBit more serious this. However, once I've found a way of barnacle proofing the boat (I'm considering a rubble sack) and I've got some knackered wires and old tat to rig the caves, it could be a right giggle.

6. The Cube.Boss line, rubbish landing. will need a team, or a proper snow drop.

(Top Six are all Whoop Whoop! what follows are the Hmmmmmm's)

7. Twll Mawr Trad.

8. Llugwy BoulderingInteresting one this, as the walk in make it time heavy, and the ride out is tire heavy. However, there could be a cool little circuit up there..

9. The Super ProwExtreme top roping with an hour walk in, and a chunk of cleaning required. Again, a Boss line.

10. Skdoosh.Surprised how I felt about this slight line one James' Boulder. I'm way off the bounce required to visit yet.

11. Porth HowelLet others hoover it up, however, I'll certainly visit again

12. The Whale.The Whale abides... will probably get done on a whim.

13. NeverfallAgain surprised how low this came out, but the remaining line are proper hard, and I haven't the time to give to them (surprisingly I'm not that awesome at slabs)

14. Cae DafyddGot at least one line I may return to, but having done a bit, and the landings are.... inventive. I think I've done my time on the ground works crew..

So there we go. If I mine out the top 6 ticks I'll be well made up. However, as I have a Daughter arriving mid September, I'll be well made up anyways.

(I haven't bothered back linking the ticks, as you either already know about them, don't care, or need no further encouragement to nick 'em)

Here's to a progressive July.



Source: Hosey B

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Mad Dogs and Gingermen
6 July 2015, 12:06 am

So as I said, I abbed into Twll Mawr at the end of June..



I had this gnawing from after the Baron, the panad with Mr Brown had had a significant effect. The efforts he had made to push new ground in Twll Mawr, the big pushes and forced retreats, covered far more ground than the legacy of 5 routes implies. The Antiquarian, Twll Love and The Baron follow 3 such forays, a forth lies under Long in  the Twll... But there was a Fifth.The back wall is rift by a series of slanting faultlines, most except Hamadryad are disguised by a deceptive topography of angular butresses, hidden until a sideways glance pops it up like a magic eye painting. One such rift rises just right of The Razor's Edge, and Joe sought to utilise this as a finish to RE..He was turned back by this roof!

I'd seen this roof before on my travels as it lies above the belay at the end of the limbo pitch of Taith Mawr. Although, at the time I was mainly just trying to get Jon and myself back in one piece. It was fun dropping back through this territory, dwelling on the glories of past. I also discovered this!

The lost Bolt belay of Razor's Edge

I'd gone hunting for this when in the thick of the rebolting boom in 2005 or 6. I waskeen to get RE spruced up as it seemed such a great adventure. I'd already done Hamadryad, and the aid bolts on that were now redundant with some solid cams, but RE depended on a fair bit of fixed gear. I ended up popping a couple of bolts somewhere between True Finish and RE as I couldn't find a useable belay for either. I figured as this section of cliff had a sizable cakewalk, this belay could be used for rescues or escapes (there's a abb bolt and wire on the top above this too). Confused by the Paul Williams description that had been dragged through successive guides, I also popped a bolt in what I thought was a belay bay of RE further down this faultline...

Jollying down Reeves' magic abb rope, I seemed to require very little cleaning, as the rock was in most parts solid, if devoid of gear. The roof at the top seemed impossible from the abb line, however the arete you crawled round on Taith Mawr almost touched the left edge of the roof, and had a bit of heather on it which might imply gear..

Fast forward to last Friday, and an 830 start had Calum racking up at the bottom of the fault. Steve Long came along for a jolly and to take pics. The sun was up but the rock was still cool, and Calum dispatched the first rib pitch with much gear of varying quality and general style. Much talking ensued and as I racked up for pitch two I must admit I got a bit distracted, the pitch was bold but steady, only E1 5a ish, but my distraction had left most of the quickdraws and cams back with Calum and Steve.. Much hilarity and boldness ensued, and I brought Cal up to rebuild the belay with some proper gear.

By this point the sun was well and truly in charge and Cal set of into the crux pitch a little sweaty, heat, slopers and worrying gear are a difficult mix, but Cal fought hard and retreated bravely to continue drawing breath.

Friday's highpoint Courtesy of Steve

we retreated that day, following Taith Mawr and up left of Bushmaster (Calum shunned the Campus move in favour of slopey lanking) and abbed the line to retrieve the slanting skyhook and 2kn micro wire that aided retreat. I dug around a bit more, but it only uncovered a couple more so-so rp placements.

So after work on Saturday I was gratified to receive a text for Cal. He'd returned and abbed in with his lovely and patient girlfriend Gabriel, and with no more ado, polished it off. The back wall of Twll Mawr now had its toughest route:

Burning Bush E7 5c, 5a, 6b P1. 30m ish. The route starts 10m right of the Chain of RE, at a rib just right of a big rusty pipe sticking out of the rubble. follow the rib as it rises leftwards until it reaches a corner. Surmount this and scramble up to the bolt and shothole belay in the bay above.P2. 45m ish.  Climb fairly direct from the back of the bay, following the line of least resistance, until a juggy roof is tussled, spitting you onto the Taith Mawr belay.P3. 30m ish. Gain the arete on the left, get what you can in the overlap, then shudder upwards utilising the slopey groove on the left side of the arete. Gain a slight saddle on the arete and wish the gear was better. Insinuate yourself forcibly through the notch in the left side of the roof to a hard won wire and hollow spike(crux), easier but thoughtful ground leads you to the top and a bolt and wire belay.P1&2 (3/7/15) Calum Muskett, Mark Dicken, Steve Long. P3 (4/7/15) Calum Muskett, Gabriel Lees.

So I guess that leaves my Twll Mawr Trad urge satiated.First tick mined out and complete. Still thirteen left, but I don't think I'll be slipping on a rack for a while.

Enjoy Twll Mawr.



Source: Hosey B

[fatneck]

Nice one Mark! Enjoying imagining what it's like to insinuate myself forcefully through a notch...

[Hoseyb]

I wasn't there on Saturday so I had to imagine that bit (having previously shunted the bit immediately above the crux) but from Fridays attempt it certainly looked like it required a certain delicate brutality.

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God loves a Trier
24 July 2015, 10:24 pm

Summer holidays are upon us, and my little windows of climbing have become sparse and infrequent (rather like the Welsh summer sun). Yesterday was my second outing this month, my first being on what was to become Burning Bush, and apart from one routing session at the wall was I've managed in terms of Training. My personal perspective on training is anything I've put enough effort into in an area to risk failure, but have learnt enough and performed enough to actually improve.

I'm not doing enough folks..

In a month where I had hoped to get some progression, I was lacking the fuel of training to make the gains. Could I progress without training?

Yesterday I was given a window of opportunity from my patient wife to find out.

As is often the case when presented with such an opportunity I took myself to Dyffryn Mymbyr, my bouldering equivalent of a well lived in study, or family Dojo.

As is often the case when presented with such an opportunity it started to drizzle.

Undeterred I pushed on up the hill (I love wellies) to the Quack Crack bloc, which provided shelter and dry rock. However, the warm ups were wet or too hard and I found its teaching a bit stern.. too hard a task master to start today's lessons. So I hoofed up to Bari Island:



Once under its sweeping prow (although the weather was sorting itself out) I warmed up on the up bit of Big Bad Bari, and the up bit of the Miss Boo Boo project. The later was a bit hard really, but with rests and a bit of general hold fondling I was ready to throw myself at Trixibelle (also still a project, but practically a family friend..)

Progression without training is merely an act of refinement, and I have sorted some of my sequence and have some further clues for the way ahead. So maybe this was progress? or was this in itself an act of training? I certainly need to increase the training frequency to succeed, but I don't see that happening easily in the next couple of months.I turned my attention to the start of Miss Boo BooAs you can see I'm not boring you with a video this time as I barely made it of the deck. My core and limbs were so punished by the attempts on Trixibelle, that I couldn't generate the contact strength in the foot lock to plank up to the roof. All needed to stretch to the backhand fingerlock in the crack above. Poor show. I followed this with an attempt on the start of Big Bad Bari to confirm my suspicions. Couldn't get of the deck. Tiny training equals tiny tank of reserves to play with.

Trudging back down the hill I accepted that the big boulder ticks are going to keep fending me off until there is enough slack in the system to allow training time. Now the Haston in my head says there's always time to train, but the beer in my hand says be kind to yourself. I'm not dead yet, these things will pass. Also, trudging down the hill I found new treasure, or rather, pretty things to spur me on to completely drain my tank.First up was the cool scoop in the right hand side of the Man Like Me boulder.I'd nicknamed this feature the Egg, as it seemed like someone had half smashed open a giant easter egg. I'd sort of written it off as I couldn't find a decent start to it. Today I just thought "why not just start squatting on the ledge at the back"

It proved to be a really interesting problem, this version is Egg Exit Left, and is about 6A+. it took a hell of a lot of head scratching, and Egg Exit Right is going to be way cool, possibly even Tubular.

Buoyed up with this I returned to the start of things at Quack Crack Bloc. Here to try the last remaining up line. At least the only one that followed a strong feature.

This is Teal Appeal, and is probably 6B. I tried Quack crack shortly after this and couldn't pull on, and happy that my tank was drained, I pootled home to help with bedtimes.

The next day out with the kids, I embarrassed myself by not being able to do the monkey bars, my arms were that wasted. Ethan showed me how a pro does it:

I intend to spend the rest of the Summer having fun and not being too pushy with myself.

Hope the sun comes back...

Source: Hosey B

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Tick Report - July
4 August 2015, 8:32 pm

So July came and July went. Work and Physio took up a fair bit of time, but I did get out and, with Calum's help, get the last of Joe Browns projects into reality. Burning Bush, draws a line for me, and I hope that Twll Mawr Trad will to continue to grow and develop with others imput. The BMC Cymru meeting was a chance to highlight the opportunities the Twll Mawr offers and will offer with careful stewardship, and I put out this upto date topo for peeps:



The Routes1 Taith Mawr (2008) Trad E4/5 6a2 Long in the Twll/ the North will rise Again (March 2015) Sport f6c/+3 Tân y Ddraig (4^th May 2015) Sport f7a/+4 Hamadryad (1971) Trad E3 5c5 Desolation of Smaug (April 2014) Sport f6c6 Antiquarian Direct (September 2014) Trad E5 6a7 Twll Love (September 2014) Trad E5 6a8 The Baron (1^st May 2015) Trad E4 6b9 The Razors Edge (1971) Trad E3 6a/b (5c with gear pulling)10 The True Finish (1989) Trad E4 6a/b (5c with gear pulling)11 Bushmaster (1982) Trad E3 6a/b (5c with gear pulling)12 Scorpion (1981) Trad MXS (E2 5b if use 1^stpitch of Bushmaster instead)12a BSB Trad HVS (Bushmaster with the second pitch of Scorpion)13 Burning Bush (3&4 July 2015) Trad E7 6b

A= Retro bolted trad belay first used for True finishB = Retro bolted trad belay first used for Twll LoveC= Previously lost belay of Razors EdgeD= Retro bolted belay that replaced the deteriorated trad one on True Finish, and the lost bolt one on Razors Edge. Was put in during the rebolting to allow safe retreat off this section of cliff.OG= Opening Gambit (what’s left of it) (1974) Trad MXS PB = Punters retreat (2007) escape route... E3 5a/b

Attempts at progression, however, have reached an impasse. Trixibelle has shunned my efforts at getting better, and has been quite usefull in highlighting my inadequacies.

Pretty isn't it.

There are time and seasons for such guff, and Its 6 weeks or so until Little Miss Dicken; Child no.4 comes into this world. As with the arrival of the Twins, this event is heralded with 2 signs; Contentment, and the need to shed projects to maintain a sanity free from obsession.This experiment with multiple hard projects has been fun, But of the outstanding Ticks, I only really care about two. Certainly enough to not want anyone else to bag the first ascent. These are Tosheroon, and the Marchlyn grit project. So all those others (including Trixibelle) is up for grabs. I'll still dabble, but don't wait for me.

Interesting times, but adventure is out there...

...It just doesn't necessarily have to be nails!

Enjoy, and Watch this space



Source: Hosey B

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An Ill Wind
6 August 2015, 7:55 pm

So last Monday I had an opportunity to have an adventure. On my own and with the chance of Rain I had decided to venture out for the maiden voyage of Binky the Wonder boat (an impulse Ebay purchase). However, on arrival Trefor (home of the mighty Shale City, and my prospective Deep Water Soloing venue) Something wasn't Right. For starters there was a bit of Drizzle, but that wasn't really an issue and was clearing. It was the wind, a bit blowy at home, was blowing along the coast, rather than over the top as I thought. I scrambled down to the sea level platform (on the left in the picture below) and the waves were all forming up and heading for me. If I even managed to get the boat in, I doubted I could punter my way around the corner..

I considered walking further along and putting in, riding with waves, but as they were also leading away from shore, I thought that a little too exciting.

Looking down the orange corner, fairly easy to rig a escape / inspection line here. Maybe for the next visit.

As the sun was coming out, and I did have some climbing / swimming kit, I chose to bail to my other prospective DWS venue, at Nant Gwrtheyrn. It a firm favourite venue with my kids now, and this would be my first high tide visit..

Plenty of sand now at the far end, a sign of our stormy summer?

So I had a slightly breezy slog along the beach, and started the Diff solo onto the top of the Slot zawn. Then it got proper windy. Sort of crawl along windy....

The Zawn at a breezy high tide, note the Spraybow and soaked walls...

Here's a vid of what I found:

Having therefore abandoned thoughts of DWS, I went exploring the grounds..







The top quarries sort of have potential for one or two lines...





I, on the other hand, retired for coffee, ham, egg and chips (and a scone)

Adventure awaits! (a less windy day)

Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

I Never Fell
27 February 2015, 6:01 pm

So Ben, Derw and myself went and did the Deed Today...

Job one was chalking the line, which went well until I started brushing the holds off. Turns out the winter had loosened some flakes, which in the cause of self preservation, I removed and made right. This deleted the jugs from the top section and added some in the middle. Hard bottom, steady middle, thin top. and a grade reduction, Happy days.

Job two was warm up at Suncharm Ledge. Derw and Ben hadn't played here before, so it was a chance to introduce them to Maurice Chevalier...

Job Three.



Three Ascents. No Falls.

Neverfall F6B+! M.Dicken 27/2/15

Source: Hosey B

Saw this shizzle today. Didn't realise it was so close to everything - hidden in plain view. Good job on the excavating / landing, looks good enough to camp on

[comPiler]

Birthday Antics
20 August 2015, 10:46 pm

So another year older, and still none the wiser..

This weekend I got to have some "fun"

Binky the Wonder boat got launched in Trefor on the Saturday. All was calm in the bay, but waves are a bit scary. I got flipped on my bum onto the rocks when I tried to get out in a little surf. My plan is to stick to inland waters until I can row in a straight line.

Sunday I was awoken at 5am by a ferret eating all our lady guinea pigs. After a little wet work and "cleaning" I was in no fit state for adventure. However, I had a date with Shale city. Arriving tardy and after high tide, I was pleased to find that the belay for the abb. was solid and reliable. Unlike the cliff below..



I've not climbed on stuff like this since Whitley Bay. I cleaned as best I could on the way down and then thought I'd just take a peek under the roof...

So there I was like Toni Kurz, admiring the solid architecture under the roof, and being unsettled by the shallow looking nature of the water below. Not wanting to get wet, and with only a shunt and reverso for company, I took a few pics, and then started to kick a swing into motion. This was a little tricky as I was spinning, and the rope was rubbing a little ominously on the roof lip. However, as the worst outcome was a quick dip, I pushed on until I could latch an undercut and pull onto the left hand ramp. Switching to shunt, I started climbing back up through the roof. This was absorbing and sphincter troubling, but all achievable, and from the ledge above the roof, it seemed all above sufficient water. The top out from there was an exercise in avoiding the loose holds and safely using the solid ones. All 4 of them. Flopped on top, I didn't feel up to the challenge of a S3 solo, and limped home.Basically is it sensible (of course not), OK is it not mental to try it?

Tide out

Tide in

I guess a pirate rope would reduce it to S1 or 2, but its definitely a high tide venue. I may return to do the easiest full top out, just for completeness before it becomes a pure pirate DWS venue. I'm sure I need to be there with someone else, so that collective psyche and spidey sense can kick in..

It wasn't over there though, as Monday evening I had an unexpected pass to go out bouldering. I was fortunate to be joined by the cuddly Fiend, who I've sort of known since UKC had less than 500 members. The venue was Dyffryn Mymbyr and a opportunity to get some of Fiend's opinions on the place. 300m into the 400m walk in I realised I'd left my fingertape in the car. A quick sprint later I was thoroughly warmed up and ready for action. First stop was the Mighty 'Tashe which was a tad midgy, The quality was confirmed, although my memory was a bit hazy how I started stuff, and Imhotep was declared a sandbag.

Onto the Quack Crack bloc to escape the midges. The venue is the boss rock of the lower "Wall" boulders, with flat landings, a breezy outlook to deter the biteys, and seven established lines in a full spectrum of Font 6. Duck Life 6A+ went first..

Fiend giving some questionable beta on Duck Life..

After that was dispatched we moved onto Quack Crack. I managed to link it into Teal Appeal to give Fist Full of Teal F6B+. Fiend then lay siege to Quack Crack, finally latching the top jugs with a manly yell. Birthday happiness is sandbagging your f(r)iends. Completing the birthday festivities, a pint was secured in the Vaynol, where the presence of Mick Fowler and Catherine Destiville, sent me scurrying round the back for fear of embarrassing myself with gawping and hero worship. All good stuff. Ready for a baby now...

Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

 

[SA Chris]

Try high spring tide? We're at new moonish at the moment, so about neap.

Also you're sitting at the wrong end of the dingy for rowing. You pull oars, not push them!

[Hoseyb]

I'm at the pointy end Chris, Its just sitting a little low as I'm a bit heavier than Logan. Problem is that I'm heavily left handed, which tend to veer me off course (pulling for distance, pushing for fine tuning seems to work)

The highest tide recorded for Trefor is 5.3m, my high tide pic is about at 5m so I think thats all I'm getting (when I abbed in it was somewhere between 4-4.5m though.)

[comPiler]

Tick Report - August
31 August 2015, 12:47 am

Well August has brought the realisation that having a new baby is adventure enough.

I've had a couple of trips to try to establish some deep water soloing this month, but they're going to have to wait until next year I think. The only big ticks I'm properly psyched for are tosheroon, and the Marchlyn grit. Saying that, I have fallen back in love with Dyffryn Mymbyr, so I think I'll be up there quite a lot when I get a moment.

Other things this month; Bought myself a pair of Solutions for my birthday. I guess having two different pairs of unholey shoes makes me now officially a boulderer.

I was also able this month to have another visit to Joe Brown's house to talk Twll Mawr. This time for an article that will grace the climbing press in the near future. I recorded two hours of conversation, about 30 minutes was Twll Mawr,the rest was an enjoyable romp through adventure climbing, bolts, corrections to the current slate guide, Morocco, and getting old.

And finally, I installed my first conventional training aid to my house:



So far, I have done a pyramid up to 5 of pull ups and press ups, as well as a quick 10 pull ups on the slopers. I'm keen to do something to make trips to Marchlyn worthwhile. As for Tosheroon, its now scheduled for the spring, but if I can get Georges crack done by Christmas, I'll be a happy man.

Having taken Fiend to Mymbyr, I realised that more folks might like to come visit. so as well as the instructions here, I've included a pic from just after the 2nd bridge you cross if you are aiming for the Quack bloc and surrounds:

A= Bari Island, B = Quack Bloc, C = The Mighty 'Tashe

The Quack Bloc looming just above the wall

in all its glory

So I got up to here today to try the last line currently feasible to me. This is the big lip traverse, starting up Minnesota Loon, and finishing up Ball's Groove. Bill Travers is somewhere in the F6C+ region and after I practiced the various sections, surprisingly it went down first go. I only had two mats with me so I put them under the two spots I might get a foot/heel stuck, and started a bit crouched, as I had no mat to sit on:

So to further encourage you guys to visit and correct my grades for me, here's a crappy topo:

1.Ball's Groove. 6A+ Standing start, hands on the left arete, can stand on the block.2. Love Battery. 6C Standing start, hanging on the crimps on the right arete, feet on and boof up to the crack, then through the roof3. Quack crack. 6B+ Sit start at the lowest jam. the stand is about 6A4. Fist Full of Teal. 6B+ Sit start, Quack Crack start into Teal Appeal5. Teal Appeal. 6B Sit start, LH undercut jam, RH undercut the fang6. Minnesota Loon. 6C+ Sit start, LH undercut fist jam, RH side pull, slopes and a leap, monkey up to the horn. rock out right for a thoughtful top out.7. Fat Duck Arete. 6B Sit start LH pinch, RH side pull as for ML. big move to gain horn then up the arete with occasional face holds. Stand(or sitting on the right hand block) is about 6A8. Duck Life. 6A+ sit start, LH pocket RH rail,blast up the slightly overhanging face9. Bill Travers. 6C+ sit start on Minnesota Loon, cross into Quack Crack without recourse to the jug rail, reverse love battery, and finish up Ball's Groove

Enjoy.



Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

Bon effort!

So Bill Travers takes in the bulk and crux of a 6C+, then quests off with burly gastonning through Teal/Quack and steep slopiness from Quack to Love Battery....and still adds up to 6C+??? 

[Hoseyb]

There's still fun after the jump on minnesota loon, I reckon Ml is a soft 6C+ and BT is a hard one, just not quite got that 7A umphh. Did love battery as part of my session,  and as 6C felt pretty relaxed.  Quack bloc suits my style, so who knows.    Now just to shift that rock, and the remaining sit starts can be done.. 

[comPiler]

Baby's still in, Scooter's out
11 September 2015, 12:04 am

With life a little on pause as we eagerly await the arrival of child number four, adventures have tended to be swift and erratic. As such, I reckon I'll be bunching a few together to be worth an actual post.

First mini adventure was an evenings boulder at the Quack block, where I bent my jack trying to move a rock (ain't happening folks) and managed to repeat Fat Duck Arete F6B, whose sit boils down to a rather stiff dead point:

Next trip was up to Marchlyn:Scooters are the future!

Note the improved patio, now a one pad venue! (two would still be nice if you've dragged a spotter)

This became Seamus F6A+ a stand off the low ledge. (the mats on a cage full of rocks) It was also one of the more amusingly poor FA video's I made, as the sun was too bright for a sensible angle, and instead I wedged it in the wire cages for a rather close up view, some good fear shots though.

As well as this I applied some science to the issue of the direct into Tumbleweed. This consisted of sticking the phone on record, while I flailed at a series of improbable sequences. the 26 minutes of footage yielded 55 seconds of semi useful stuff, which i shoved through Coaches Eye. Basically I'm too weak, and my core is stopping me even tickle the slaps into slopers properly. Here's another crappy topo



The only other proper thing I've done up here is Livesey's Love Child round the back, a slopey top out grovel that starts under the lip on a big flake on the right, and is about F6B.

Gate to boulder took 53 minutes today (38 to the Dam). Boulder to gate was 22 minutes (10 from Dam). Useful knowledge if I want to revisit before the baby arrives.



Source: Hosey B

[Fiend]

Rock looks ace on that.

Hosey have you done Brute33 in The Pass? Quick hit style and you'd love it.

[Hoseyb]

My rack is currently buried under baby stuff.  Not got a lot of urge to tie on at the moment,  although I do know where my harness is at least (even the location of my helmet actually)

[Fiend]

Good good, put it on your list at least. Sloper-toehook compression into falling backwards into an undercling cutloose into steady but meaty jamming, it's kinda like Quack-area style bouldering on a route.

[Hoseyb]

Okeley dokely

[comPiler]

Normal Service will Resume Shortly...
22 September 2015, 11:48 am

She's Here!

D.A.D and Seren

Seren arrived on Saturday at the very considerate time of 5pm, weighing a dainty 11 pounds and 5 Ounces. She's feeding, sleeping and pooing like a professional.

In other news, two days later I passed my Development Coach assessment, So its been a busy week, Time for sleep, slouching, and some hard work.

See you all soon.

Source: Hosey B