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Hosey B (Read 171605 times)

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#175 Re: Hosey B
October 23, 2014, 03:58:03 pm
Nice one, the strand line had at least two mermaids purses to every kelp stalk so the waters are certainly rich, my next visit will include at least one more mat and a spotter I think.

How I laughed when I was moving for the top and my mats blew away..... :tumble:

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We can rebuild him. We have the technology.
6 November 2014, 10:31 am

So last week, arms a bit niggly from a few snappy pops of Porth Howel, my car wouldn't start. an afternoon of pushing the beast round Deiniolen left my shoulders further ravaged. The day after I was back behind the drill at work and I was sure it was time for a rest. Too late. Opening a door was all it took to send me swiftly through the pain portal.

Ooops.

Fortunately, the Beacon has an in house Oesteopath Belinda Rae. I was able to shuffle in in agony, and walk out in relative mobility and comfort. This isn't the end of the matter, I still have a lot of physio to do, and my shoulder alignment needs serious sorting to give me a frame to build myself up again.

We can rebuild him. We have the technology. We can make him better than he was. Better...stronger...faster

The important thing is to maintain motivation, I may not be able to go out and crush, but I can keep exploring, and I may take some keen wads out to some of my select venues. Two more Open projects to launch, Then next year will be the year I actually send some of them (all of them Dammit! lets be ambitious).

So Back to this week, and I went in search of the mythical roof of Carnedd y Filiast. I though I spotted this 4 years ago, when out on a fruitless search on Fronllwydd. Having no camera, I filed it to my memory and left it there to fester. This seemed like an ideal opportunity to tie up this loose end.

Sunny Filiast on the approach, good forecast for this day...

Enery sink needs an overflow, the Marchlyn Mawr Reservoir has a big one, keen followers will have noticed the Open Project for May is non tidal, Good News. Clouds? odd...

Ahh. I must ignore all Forecasts for North Wales....

Fortunately, I managed to squeeze under this rather diminutive boulder, and amused myself imagining I was and inch tall and climbing it (rather reminiscent of the Bone People buttress)

On the top of Carnedd y Filiast. Veiw like this might persuade me to walk  a bit more...

I think this is the Macguffin that drew me up here. It does overhang, the landing isn't terrible, but does it make you want to drag a mat up here?

A slightly cloudier, less sunkissed recreation of the view that triggered this jaunt. Another example of Craine's 1st Law.

So one less hillside to wander, only a couple of thousand left.

Shoulders back..

Source: Hosey B


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#177 Neverfall November visit
November 17, 2014, 06:00:08 pm
Neverfall November visit
17 November 2014, 3:30 pm

Its still there.

It seems quite high, but at least the landing is flat...

(ok I'm bricking it and quite happy to complete my physio rehab first)

Some Photo's:

Nice angle, nice flat landing pad, easy exit.... Just a bit High

The new improved top out is friendly enough to wander down now in my trainers, the holds of the easy line and the finishing jugs catch the eye...As does the height (half buried chair for scale).

Think I'll take my time on this one..

Source: Hosey B


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#178 Re: Hosey B
November 17, 2014, 06:43:57 pm
Good work.

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#179 Re: Hosey B
November 20, 2014, 05:16:32 pm
Went back today Mr F. with a tape measure.

Actual height = 700cm

Patio Dimensions 160x340cm

The obvious edge to the top= 150cm (just under my armspan)

The height my feet will be above a triple deck of pads when dangling off the massive finishing jugs = 460cm

Reassurance through the appliance of science  :smartass:

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#180 Open Project of the Month - November
November 21, 2014, 12:00:10 pm
Open Project of the Month - November
21 November 2014, 11:59 am

Having confirmed the mythical status of bouldering on Carnedd y Filiast, I once more quested into the woods and riverbeds to bring you this:

The Whale of Galedffrwd

Or should that be a Carp as its freshwater... Galedffrwd translates roughly as the hard stream, and it certainly has its fare share of bedrock, as well as these lovely smooth erratics, nothing else as useful as this though.



The fishy juts out over the torrent with its snout over white water..



The side however is above a bedrock shelf. a spotter to steer will keep out intrepid boulderer dry.(best to pick a dryish period though...)

Finally the scale. Here is my hand firmly grasping the starting jug. This is the incut triangle seen in the middle of the previous piccy.



Standing on the top. Its the top that its all about, and makes this boulder pretty cool. Its not a small boulder and below the starting jug its undercut and almost completely devoid of holds.

Basically its all top out, lovely smooth holdless font top out. Its surface is extremely tactile, almost animal in substance and I found myself giving it a good rub and slap. Think heels, drags, press downs and piloerectile locomotion....

This boulder is located off the Tai Duon road out of Mynydd Landegai. Best to park near the top of the hill, don your wellies and wander down to these chaps:

The Holly and the Ivy (well it is nearly December) carefully hop the fence and squelch down to the stream and the Whale.

Enjoy



Source: Hosey B


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#181 Hidden in Plain Sight
November 28, 2014, 12:00:13 am
Hidden in Plain Sight
27 November 2014, 6:07 pm

Today I got to take my lovely wife out for an adventure at Nant Gwrtheyrn. We were blessed by blue skies, and as the sun peeped over Craig y Llam, we were met by the Seal Family:





I actually got to photograph them this time, they're living by the Open Project for September, so you might need to be sensitive there, although they we'rent too bothered by us, and we moved on to the far end anyway.

I had been curious as to what lies beyond around the corner, a little light soloing later (its rehab you know...) I found this:

the landing?

the top out

It Appears an awesome DWS spot, in the old sense of the word. I will definitely be visiting once warmth returns to Wales.

There's Treasure Everywhere!

Source: Hosey B


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#182 Re: Hosey B
November 28, 2014, 10:08:28 am
Just checked the satellite images and the water looks deep too!  :bounce:

I'm old so I'll swim it first...

Quick question for you; Whats the acceptable water depth to plummet height Ratio?

Don't particularly want to copperhead myself into the seabed  :shrug:

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#183 Re: Hosey B
November 28, 2014, 11:46:34 am
Nice hanging fang in the upper part, you just can't resist the offwidth can you ;)

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#184 Re: Hosey B
November 28, 2014, 12:31:56 pm
That looks awesome! Hard to tell the scale of it from the picture, how high is it?

Always best to snorkle around the bottom first to check it out as hidden boluders can be the main problem.

As far as falling in, the World High Diving Federation reckon 13 to 15 meters deep for for dives from 20 meters or less. Not sure how much this errs on the side of caution though...

In saying that; the La Quebrada Cliff Divers dive from 35 meters into 4 meters of water...!

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#185 Re: Hosey B
November 28, 2014, 01:11:24 pm
In my experience when falling off a climb, you never go deeper than about 4m even on really high solos. I've heard this from others too. The entry is probably a bit different to high diving and makes a considerably bigger splash!

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#186 Re: Hosey B
November 28, 2014, 05:59:28 pm
10-15m high, there's often a 3m tidal range on this spot, so It looking good for the summer
 :clap2:

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#187 Open Project of The Month - December
December 09, 2014, 12:01:38 am
Open Project of The Month - December
8 December 2014, 9:56 pm

....And so a year of Open Projects comes to a close. I (or anyone else for that matter) have yet to bring closure on any of these puppies, but now at least they're out there, tried and in the public domain. When I started this project it was as a slightly broken man, I thought of the  big unclimbed lines I knew of and really wanted to do, despite being way out of my league.

Well I've been trying them, and maybe they are not out my league... we'll see what next year brings. Enough of that, that's for a post later in the month.

This months project is a Christmas gift; I found it in March and have been saving it as something special, hopefully to be realised as a team effort. However, December arrived and arrangements with wads failed to come together. So off I went; two mats, a pair of wellies and a Dream...

Nantmor Mon Amore!



Now Nantmor has been well explored in the 90's, with many padless classics developed over the back of Craig Bengham bach. I myself had been on a wander many moons ago, and found a bit, but not a lot. However, with a bit of spare time and Googlemaps, I became curious about a cluster of large looking boulders on the fringes of Coed Caedafydd. Last March I bailed up through the woods on a reccy, cautiously as they were felling at the time, and strenuously, as the woods were so full of storm blown timber, that I had to use my hands as often as my feet (the woods are on a steep slope). This time I used Bing as then I could see the OS maps, and subsequently the appropriate public footpath...

Park at the Coed Caedafydd picnic spot, which has parking for 5-6 car (luxury in Nantmor) and walk up the road towards Gwynant. Take the first signed public footpath on the right. Go uphill through the field, through a wall, then zig steeply rightwards up through the woods to another wall. Through this to a big white boulder, then steeply upwards to arrive at the view above.

20mins from car, wear wellies.

This spot has a crag and numerous super boulders, The rock is rough and faceted, similar to some of the ash boulders in the pass above wavelength. This means little crimps and complex slopers, as well as a little bit of scrittle. The landings are very Ysgo/Crafnant, and lots of mats are a good Idea, as well as going as a team, and a bit of patioing. As well as huge pebbles, there are a myriad of corridors, tunnels and caves to explore and develop.

The rewards are boulders like this:

The Dai Koyamada boulder-

Perched in the middle of the field, a Highball mat for scale..

Close up showing the clear space underneath, including lots of tiny sharp pockets, a starting flake, and space to bivi 8 people...View from the side showing my attempted pad stack. the landing needs work and not one for this solo trip. I instead went left of this shot to tackle the big hanging slab. This gave Pull Test F6A+! ish and my first climbing outside since I did my shoulder in.



The landing was a little comical, and my numerous falls in establishing this line generally had me sliding off the red mat into the undergrowth on the left. The lip of the slab was at about diaphragm height and severely undercut, the scoop on the left provided a flatty and a slopey pinch with which I had to rock it out with extreme prejudice. However, once I'd eventually managed this I refused to fall off again and gibbered up the thankfully easing slab.

After this bit of excitement, I went looking for slightly safer fare, and picked on a couple of boulders at the front of the field.Nkosi Arete F5. sit start on the Africa ish like flake this is the FA onsight, hence the pop of scrittle..

The Brawler F6A. Pull via pockets into the start of the flake system and follow it to the top. Straight up from the starting pockets was about F4/5.

So here it is, an area about the size and situation of Sheep Pen, and about as easy to get to from Llanberis.

Enjoy....

Source: Hosey B


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#188 Re: Hosey B
December 09, 2014, 10:06:21 am
That landing made me lol. Looked alright from the above shot.

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#189 Re: Hosey B
December 09, 2014, 10:15:46 am
Cheers, looks really good! I guess this isn't the same place that was described in the NWB guide under Nantmor?

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#190 Re: Hosey B
December 09, 2014, 11:59:27 am
Looks like I need to send Crouch on a recce  ;)

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#191 Re: Hosey B
December 09, 2014, 02:10:18 pm
Its a different spot to the previously described bunch (although you have to dig down to Northern Soul to get proper beta)

The Landing was a bit traditional, its amazing what a good landing heather makes.. (if it wasn't for the brambles)


There's a couple of vids but I guess you have to go to the blog for those, got a new phone and an app, so they're a bit shorter now.... no wandering back and forth to the phone on me todd.

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#192 Re: Hosey B
December 10, 2014, 03:36:45 pm
Gav Foster took me up to the Caeddafydd boulders about three years ago and we did around a dozen problems. The rock was very snappy which made for some quite exciting attempts on lines especially if you were first up. Once the main bits had snapped off it did seem to settle down a bit but in the end we decided to sack it off and leave it undocumented like the original Nantmor stuff that Pritch etc. climbed. Shame as it looks so promising on first acquaintance. Here's a few pics of Gav on a 6B+ steep arete and a 5C/6Aish groove:




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#193 Re: Hosey B
December 10, 2014, 03:48:38 pm
I forgot to mention that Martin Crook (of course!) has also had a dabble here.

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#194 Re: Hosey B
December 12, 2014, 01:00:17 pm
That'll be Gav on what I called the Brawler then....  :boohoo:  Good to see my gradings about right...  good problem.

FA's aside its a good spot and worthy of a bit more attention, especially as its fairly easy access as well.


I'm sure in the course of the blog,  some of these things I've posted up have been done before (Big G went to porth howel yeeeaaars ago, but only traversed.....) But its always good to share, and naming stuff is such fun!   :-[

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#195 Re: Hosey B
December 12, 2014, 01:25:32 pm
Liking the look of the koyamada roof! May gave to wander up  :thumbsup:

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#196 Re: Hosey B
December 12, 2014, 06:04:09 pm
Hosey I didn't mean to piss on your chips, just saying what I thought of the place.

Rich, there is another steep grade 8ish line that might interest you; rock looked of the 'non-snappy' type too. Might be impossible though!  ;)

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#197 Re: Hosey B
December 12, 2014, 10:35:30 pm
No offence taken Sir P, I have some nice little lines squirreled away up there to do at some point that you may not have done. Regarding the quality; as I said, it is a bit scrittley, but nothing a few ascents won't sort out.
It can't all be Dolerite/Granite/Grit/Lime....

Rich, the Koyamada roof is futuristic enough to require the application of super string theory, but there are positive edges that could be construed as holds, however, bring enough mats and there are a few other tasty numbers available also.

My chips are piss free

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#198 Neverfall: First Lob
December 19, 2014, 06:00:15 pm
Neverfall: First Lob
19 December 2014, 5:12 pm

Finally got here to actually climb, After a bit of a drive round rustling up pads, Ben, Charlotte and myself rocked up with 4 pads, and Charlotte's posh camera...

(Spot the foreshortening)

Stack of Nu Pads..

First try, arse high...

Hold Checking / Cleaning

Throwing Shapes

Engage reverse thrusters!

Ben's High Point

So close... my highpoint one move from completing the first section, which would leave me standing on the big hold. Section 2 looks to be a wiggy layback section to the finger ledge. At this point hands are at about 5.5m. The final section is the push from here 1.5m to the top.

Notes for next visit:Warm up at Suncharm ledge firstTake abb gear for any further cleaning6 pads would give the breadth to the pads to reassure on the layback moves, as well as stack up for the final section.

Thanks for the pics Charlotte!

Source: Hosey B


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#199 Re: Hosey B
December 20, 2014, 11:14:13 am
Nice one Hosey D!

 

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