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Mono bulge stuff - Burbage [inc some new probs 6b - 7b] (Read 31118 times)

dave

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Few questions: anyone done the mono bulge problem at burbage, on the block underneath boyager? Just asking cos every time I look at this it doesn't reek of 7a. That as assuming that it takes the face towards the right side, maybe with right arete for your hand, mono in left hand?

The BMC guide says something like "the bulge on big holds", which is pretty noncommital, especially as there aren't any big holds. You do have to wonder if this one is just a glint in the guildebook writers eye. I forgot to check in the BMC book if a first ascentionists name is given.

Secondly, did a problem last night on that block, the left arete, mono for your right hand. Its really really good and deserves some traffic. Felt about 7bish, possibly/probably new? Question?
« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 09:08:47 am by Bonjoy, Reason: Edited title as thread includes new prob info »

Scouse D

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#1 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 12:25:03 pm
the new problem here is top quality. Steep, powerful, 8 moves, brilliant. You all should go and seek it out. It isn't remotely shit, there are no hidden rules, it's pure quality at the busiest crag in the peak

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 01:09:22 pm
It's at Horseshoe Quarry?!

Andy B

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#3 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 03:49:58 pm
I couldn't figure out if Mono Bulge was the left or the right line, and it has never been clean enough to figure out, without alot of work when I've been there. I assumed the slab/ plinth at the bottom was in, given that it is described as a sitter.

Scouse D

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#4 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 03:53:45 pm
Dave's problem is the left line from the very back using the mono hold with your right hand. If someone claims that they've done this before I'll take some convincing. I'm sure Dave will get a photo up soon to get your juices flowing.

Andy B

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#5 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 03:56:50 pm
If someone claims that they've done this before I'll take some convincing.

Why's that?

(I paid your money in yesterday, cheers).

Scouse D

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#6 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 04:00:34 pm
Mainly lot's of big pebbles falling of the main holds when brushing. If the problem had every been climbed before the climber must've been very light.

Ta

Andy B

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#7 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 04:02:40 pm
Fair do's.

Did you guys do Bubble while you were there?

Scouse D

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#8 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 04:05:49 pm
Dave did it. my finger didn't like it. Seemed like a good problem. Tried the low start?

Andy B

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#9 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 04:08:40 pm
No. What would that be? Lying down, hands on the lip, or something else?

dave

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#10 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 07:47:54 pm
I looked at what is now bubble a few years back and envisaged it starting on the block underneath, coming out to what are now the starting holds (heel on block, easy moves), then a pretty hard footkick/swing to get left out on the pebble over left and hence into bubble. Became clear that move would be quite hard and boney on that crimp so I left it, plus I was never convinced that it wasn't a bit too low and pokey enough to properly try to clean it. I think I made the mistake of assuming the bubble start move would be piss (without actually trying it) and hence wrote off starting at the lip as being not worthwhile, whereas it turns out when its clean its a nice problem.

I couldn't figure out if Mono Bulge was the left or the right line, and it has never been clean enough to figure out, without alot of work when I've been there. I assumed the slab/ plinth at the bottom was in, given that it is described as a sitter.

I recon if mono bulge as per the guide description has actually be done then it must be the RH line. Dunno where it would start, back of plinth seems obvious but then that might be impossible to "sit" start in the literal sense. You could start it sitting on the big block, hand in mono, other on arete, maybe thats it? Still hard to fathom it being 7a - the topout alone looks 7a!


grimer

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#11 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 08:55:14 pm
I wrote that section although I'm hazy about it now, thank god. Often doing these places (remember, it had never been documented before) you (by that I mean 'I') are (and by that I mean 'was') going on little bits that people tell you, rumours and conjecture, multiplied by failures and laziness.  Sometimes these are wrong. But, like the Doors of Perception, I get the impressions that authors walk away from doing guidebooks with a much shakier belief in SCIENCE that they walk towards them with.

I'll check my measurements, but maybe 7a is wrong.

dave

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#12 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 09:22:24 pm
Grimer - I'm sure i'd heard there was a problem on the mono years before the burbage guide was out, maybe it was recorded on a website back in the day, like the UKB problems list, or topbouldering or keith turtons site or something like that.

Photo of the new thing:



(taken by scouse)

note lack of tickmarks, lets keep it this way.

grimer

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#13 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
June 20, 2011, 09:48:19 pm
Well it seems perfectly plusible that I heard that too, and therefore the liklihood of me having completely made it up must be seen as negligable.  :)

Bonjoy

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#14 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
April 30, 2012, 10:12:51 pm
I cleaned and climbed Mono Bulge today from a low start (hands matched on base block). Very good but certainly no 7a, I'd say 7b was more like it (harder than Boyager, a touch easier than Monochrome). The line I took gained the pocket/edge then the arete, cut loose, slap into groove then the nose and move left to climb the centre of the overhang.
Also cleaned and climbed the 6b lip trav (called Ripple Riser in the Burbage Guide) along the face to the right of Mono Bulge.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2012, 08:24:11 am by Bonjoy »

dave

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#15 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
April 30, 2012, 11:09:22 pm
Nice one! When we were there I couldn't see a 7a looking sequence on that, infact couldn't read it at all. Makes sense that its harder.

Bonjoy

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#16 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
May 01, 2012, 08:59:29 am
Will chase Farrar up about where original started. Sit start on the block seemed like 7a+ (Burbage guide gives it V7 so this would make sense) and stand start about 6c/+. The low block start adds a good powerful cutloose (looks dabby but isn't really) a la Brass Monkeys.
Ironically the mono is barely used except as a foothold.

r-man

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#17 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
May 01, 2012, 12:22:33 pm
A few years ago, Dawid told me he'd done some problems on a block near boyager...just found the thread

He says he did the left arete of Boyager with a big leap for the jug, sometime in 2000. He thought 7b/+ at the time.
He also did a couple of other problems on a steep boulder near there. One going up left and one up right. He can't remember the grades, but they might be 7's.

Could that be this, or is it something else? I could ask for some details, but he probably won't remember much.

Bonjoy

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#18 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
May 01, 2012, 02:26:04 pm
Maybe. There was also a possible RH finish to Mono Bulge involving swinging onto RHS of arete (probably easier than the LH finish but not as good) to confuse matters and possible lines on the steep face to the right.
Yeah, might as well ask him.

Bonjoy

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#19 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
May 02, 2012, 02:02:01 pm
Here's a rough topo for anyone still confused

Dolly

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#20 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
May 02, 2012, 02:11:50 pm
Cheers for that - very useful

a dense loner

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#21 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
May 02, 2012, 11:08:41 pm
Iain said he'd never climbed mono bulge it's a guide mistake. He did however climb the wall to the right of it trending leftwards. So sit start n climb leftwards kind of on the prow but not underneath it if u know what I mean. U can see the handholds on the wrong way facing flakes

SA Chris

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#22 Re: Mono bulge stuff - Burbage
May 03, 2012, 09:12:01 am
Is the brown line on the right a problem or a twig?

Bonjoy

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Good team here last night. Monochrome and Mono Bulge saw some repeats. I climbed a RH finish to Mono Bulge and two up lines on the right face. I’ll give names and grades for now in lieu of further details from Dave and Iain. I couldn’t really figure Iain’s line you described Dense, I’ll call him and try to clarify. Anyway, provenance aside, here’s some descriptions for the most logical lines from my perspective:

Mono Bulge RH 7b – As per Mono Bulge but swing right at the nose to top out as per Ripple Riser. A touch easier than the normal finish I thought.

Asylum Sika 7b – Sit start on the leftmost thin flake head up and right to the good holds midway along the lip, finish up Ripple Riser. It’s an eliminate in so far as you could avoid the difficulty (and good moves) by dropping down into the flake on SD and the base block is out. I did a very subtle glue job on the creaky start flake, unfortunately so subtle that it failed (without the hold breaking off). I’ll go back and do a better job, but please treat gently in the meantime. Not a striking line but it climbs really nicely. Pretty sure this one is an FA as the key foothold is new i.e. it’s what’s left after I broke a tiny flake off.

Snappy Duds 6b+ - Sit start on the middle flake, slap up the good holds on the lip and top out direct



PS. Cheers Dave for the name Asylum Sika. Have had on my list of ones to use for years, waiting for a suitable problem/route.



leeroy

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little vid of monochrome.

 

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