[jwi]

Imho coated ropes last much longer than un-coated. So much that it's worth the extra cost.

Btw, either I've started to fall less with age (quite possible) or ropes have become not only thinner but much more long-lasting.

[HaeMeS]

Coated ropes last a lot longer. Also absorb less water -> better handling. I wouldn't buy an untreated rope for (UK) trad. Got an untreated twin rope once (not for sale) and was shocked by how quick it became furry. Rapping in the rain was 'unpleasant'.

Good insight into production of climbing ropes: The Edelrid Ropebook: https://vaude-admin.twt-clients.de/out/pictures/uploads/file/EDELRID/Downloads/Seilfibel_2015_EN.pdf
Contains useful information about how ropes are produced, factors that can damage a rope, etc.

[shark]

Thanks jwi and HaeMeS

[jern]

Does anyone have experience of Roca ropes? Specifically the Kalymnis and Siurana single ropes.

 Alpkit will apparently ship one to NZ for £10 and as the ropes are about £80, it seems to good to be true.

Cheers

[Fultonius]

Just taken a punt on these:

https://rockrun.com/products/edelrid-sinai-pro-dry-8-3mm-x-60m-pair

At that price they'd need to be shite to be a bad deal.

£150 the pair. Downsides seem to be - dull colours, only 30% sheath and only 9 UIAA falls so maybe not as durable as a Mammut Genesis. I'm not that tough on half ropes, so should be ok.

[moose]

If they are anything like my Edelrid Python (9.8mm single), which has been the workhorse of every holiday I've had for 6/7ish years, you should be okay.  If money is no object, I like Sterling (my 9.4mm is the best lightness for strength / good handling I have encountered so far) but the Edelrid is the best value rope I have ever had.

[cheque]

maybe not as durable as a Mammut Genesis.

Nothing is.

[Paul B]

I've just bought a Simmond 8.9mm 80m single for £109.99 (Decathlon; free delivery):

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/edge-rope-89-x-80m-id_8360084.html

The 100m is £119.99:

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/edge-rope-89mm-x-100m-id_8360082.html

[Steve R]

Anyone care to offer suggestions for an 80m sport rope? Not the lightest climber around so durability probably top priority. My last rope was an edelrid something 9.8mm which seemed fine and lasted pretty well.  Will probably go for another of those unless anyone can recommend something better?

[Wood FT]

Shrew rates the Simond job paul mentioned above, we’re considering it but maybe the other simond ones.

[Steve R]

yeah that pink 'edge' model sounds quite thin and light (56g/m) so imagine the larger unit would wear it pretty quickly?  Would be interested to hear what those fatter (10mm)  simond ones are like.  maybe go too fat after a while to work nicely in a gri gri 2? Also, strangely, the simond ropes here and in spanish decathalogs are more expensive than back in the uk.

[Wood FT]

the 10mm ones felt surprisingly skinny in the shop, we'll probably go for an 80 one of them. Good intel, will get it before we head out.

[Muenchener]

I've just bought a Simmond 8.9mm 80m single for £109.99 (Decathlon; free delivery):

I took a fall on one of those recently. It didn't break. Recommended.

[nai]

Offer on Sterling kosmos ropes at rock n run, 80m for under £100 seems a decent deal?

https://rockrun.com/collections/sterling-kosmos-rope-deals?

[Paul B]

10.2mm x 80m = heavy

[nai]

Aha, good point, 67g/m.

Ah well, ordered one now, fortunately I'll generally only have to carry it as far as the Prow, can't face going up there anymore on a 8.6mm single/half combo that's not supposed to be for working routes, feels way too scary. 

[205Chris]

It's been a while since I've tied in but I'm keen for some routes this year.

Given that I mainly project / redpoint (read: fall off) I normally go for something in the 10 - 10.5mm range. Popped into Outside earlier and the biggest diameter they had was 9.8mm.

Is sub 10 the new standard for single ropes? Recommendations for something hard wearing?

30m+ onsights aren't really my thing.....

[Muenchener]

9.8 is the new 11.

I've been using Mammut Infinities (9.5) for the last few years. Seems to be a pretty solid workhorse rope.

[moose]

Aye, these days, 9.8mm is a workhorse rope. 

9.4/9.5mm is good all rounder; robust enough for the working stage of an RP campaign, thin enough for the proper RP attempts. 

9.2mm and below are for sponsored heroes and desperate souls, in despair of ever ticking their project, and a week away from cutting the labels off their clothes and popping pre-session Dulcolax!

I really like the Sterling 9.4mm Ion Fusions, really low drag but hard wearing, but I think they might have been discontinued (replaced with a 9.5mm and a 9.2mm). 

Also, one thing to note is that the diameters of ropes, or at least how thick they feel, often seem non-standard even within the same manufacturer.  A friend bought a 9.2mm Sterling, as an upgrade on his 9.4mm Sterling but the 9.2mm was grabbier and more draggy.  Possibly, as the 9.4mm was part of the high performance "Fusion" range and had a nicer sheath construction than the coarser 9.2mm, which was  part of the more all-rounder "Evolution" range.

[Paul B]

Speaking to a friend (I'm pretty sure he lurks here) a fair while ago now, a lot of this is due to there being no standard way to measure a lot of the parameters rope manufacturers give you i.e weight per metre (is that a stretched metre or otherwise)?

The sterling Ion 2's were brilliant. I'm still using the two Mammuts I posted about in this thread a fair while ago but they were the first and last of that model that I've ever seen.

[Wood FT]

Just chopped the end of my last budget rope purchase for the first time, so good as time as any to review -

Simond 80m - 10mm - £90.00

I’ve been using this rope nearly everyday since mid-February, everything from turbo-dogging and long onsights to numerous “winch me!” top-rope scenarios. Similar to others above it says 10mm but in reality feels more like the 9.8 Sterling I previously owned. You can certainly feel the weight on the long stuff but it’s by no means a cable, I think it’s brilliant. Only downside is that it gets really dirty, is this due to a lack of dry-treatment? Edit: just read above stuff on it.

Recommended, cheap and lasting well.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/rock-10mm-x-80m-blue-id_8505643.html

Also got given the Simond 8.9mm pink one and that’s been the dogs particulars on long stuff and doesn’t feel scary thin. DanM on here once told me the reason the diameters are all out of wack but I’ve forgotten - Dan?

[TobyD]

Re diameters I believe that there is no standard of what tension, temperature, and several other variables rope diameters are measured at. Thus manufacturers will put a number on it they think will sell.

Vaguely remember this from a company training day when I worked for outdoor shops.
Grams per metre is a much better thing to look at.

Second all opinions about simond ropes, used the 9.5mm loads, great for everything.

[danm]

Re diameters I believe that there is no standard of what tension, temperature, and several other variables rope diameters are measured at. Thus manufacturers will put a number on it they think will sell.

Vaguely remember this from a company training day when I worked for outdoor shops.
Grams per metre is a much better thing to look at.

Second all opinions about simond ropes, used the 9.5mm loads, great for everything.

Not quite accurate but close enough. When they do the tests, the rope is always carefully conditioned wrt to temperature and humidity, because this makes a big difference with nylon's physical properties. They hang a weight on a sample of rope, and measure the diameter carefully in 6 different places, and take the average.

The annoying thing is that this figure has to be recorded to the nearest 0.1mm, but there is then an added +/-0.2mm variance allowed in the diameter quoted on the label and rope end marker. As an example, if you measured the diameter at 7.95mm, you could label and sell it as anything from a 7.7mm to an 8.2mm rope. Obviously this is a shoddy state of affairs, (given if you buy a belay device it will have a range of acceptable rope diameters to use with it) but BMC attempts to lobby for a more accurate reporting have so far been resisted, not for want of trying.

Density has to be reported to the nearest 1g using the actual measurements, so is much more accurate.

[Duncan campbell]

Any recommendations on Single ropes? I’m looking to buy an 80m one for sport climbing abroad mainly I guess.

I’m no wad so doesn’t need to be the lightest in the world (or maybe that means it should!) but am looking to use it on high 7s/low 8s. Have a Petzl Ariel that I really rate. Might be a little heavy as an 80? Will last forever though.. how about the Volta?

Other option was I was considering a Simond... almost tempted by a 100m skinny one as you can just keep chopping forever!

Any other thoughts/recommendations?

Money not too much of an issue. Guess I’d maybe rather a good hard wearing rope for more dollar over a cheaper one that doesn’t last.

Cheers all

[jwi]

The Simond 9mm 100m rope is popular here in Occitania. Wouldn't get it I was climbing mostly short routes though.