UKBouldering.com

Zippy's problem @ stoney (Read 4131 times)

Kaito

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 1
  • Karma: +0/-0
Zippy's problem @ stoney
April 10, 2011, 02:08:26 pm
Is the vertical foothold for the first move (on the right-hand side) in? It doesn't say anything about it in the guide (peak bouldering), however its polished and this guy uses it:
Thanks.

dave

  • Guest
#1 Re: Zippy's problem @ stoney
April 10, 2011, 02:59:47 pm
I asked this very question when reading the new guide script. I don't know what the final verdict was. I suspect it's not "in".

Dexter

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 483
  • Karma: +19/-0
#2 Re: Zippy's problem @ stoney
April 10, 2011, 05:31:12 pm
I was also wondering this on thrusday when I was down there my guess would be it doesnt say its in so its not but I couldnt get anywhere near pulling off the floor without it

Andy Harris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: +34/-0
#3 Re: Zippy's problem @ stoney
April 10, 2011, 07:50:53 pm
no no no no no no no. There's a really poor really tiny smear ou there. It is quite hard just to pull on. Hope conditions at -10 are better than in Font. Must have been 28 today with multiple infants making problems even harder.

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
#4 Re: Zippy's problem @ stoney
April 10, 2011, 09:09:20 pm
 :agree:

same R foothold  as the harder ones there IIRC, havin said that...I've done Zippys... but few others on that section of wall.

BTW... IMO, a really satisfying problem!


yorkshireman

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: +14/-8
  • dont knock the rock if you're shaky at the grade
#5 Re: Zippy's problem @ stoney
April 12, 2011, 06:07:10 pm
is it still cricket only to use the smaller of the left foot holds at the start?

fatdoc

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4093
  • Karma: +100/-8
  • old and fearful
    • http://www.pincheswall.co.uk
#6 Re: Zippy's problem @ stoney
April 12, 2011, 07:29:10 pm
that's my interpretation

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube
#7 Re: Zippy's problem @ stoney
January 20, 2018, 05:21:58 pm
Not again! Seems like every time I think I've done something new on minus ten I've done something wrong!

So the foothold on the right  at the start (like the video) is out. What about the lefthand foothold when going to the side pull? I did it using the poor foothold down and left of the good horn thing, as indicated in the vertebrate guide. What about the sidepull? There is the pinch from variant 1, then a side pull to the left and another sidepull further to the left. Which is it?

Keen to get back and do it in the week. Cheers.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal