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Dry Tooling Damage Thread (Read 19159 times)

GCW

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Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:32:37 am
Just to try to collate information, and maybe assess the extent of this as a wider issue.
Please add any other you know about.

Denham Quarry- various tool damage around the Concave Wall area.  2010, twice.
Stronstrey Bank Quarry- Crampon damage, Roadworks area, appeared since late 2010.
Millstone- Dry tooling witnessed December 2010, Embankment/Monopoly.
Burbage North- Wednesday Climb area, likely 2011.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2011, 11:42:02 am by GCW »

slackline

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#1 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:40:30 am
Horseshoe Quarry
Castle Inn Quarry Have pictures taken on early March 2011, locals also climbing there said the scratches had been there for a year or so already (still looked fresh, so goes to show the damage caused doesn't disappear over-night/year).

Also some dicks scratching graffiti into the rocks of Back Tor over winter.

SA Chris

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#2 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:41:03 am
Back Bowden - on the descent gully to the right of the main crag there are definite crampon scratches from someone climbing / trying to climb up it. Last seen April before last. Not on any climbs, but stupid nonetheless and potential thin end of the wedge.

slackline

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#3 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:43:26 am
Back Bowden - on the descent gully to the right of the main crag there are definite crampon scratches from someone climbing / trying to climb up it. Last seen April before last. Not on any climbs, but stupid nonetheless and potential thin end of the wedge.

Best stick the North Ridge of Tryfan in then, there are tons of scratches all the way up that (even though its not a climb).  :P

Fultonius

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#4 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:45:41 am
Last weekend I forgot my lube....the damage is only just healing now.  :sorry:

[ooops, wrong thread  :-[ ]

Joking aside - good idea!  Maybe there could be a wiki page with photos highlighting the various areas where it's been going on?

slackline

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#5 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:47:16 am
Maybe there could be a wiki page with photos highlighting the various areas where it's been going on?



Make it so!


SA Chris

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#6 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:51:33 am

Best stick the North Ridge of Tryfan in then, there are tons of scratches all the way up that (even though its not a climb).  :P

Is this pedantic crap a useful addition to this thread?

Fultonius

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#7 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:52:36 am
I would (I don't expect others to do all the work) but I don't have any photos and I don't know any of the locations where it's happened!


GCW

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#8 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:53:40 am

slackline

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#9 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 11:57:38 am

Best stick the North Ridge of Tryfan in then, there are tons of scratches all the way up that (even though its not a climb).  :P

Is this pedantic crap a useful addition to this thread?

Maybe, I thought the damage and scratches on the rock when I went up there last year was horrendous, not strictly "dry tooling", but depressing to see.

Probes

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#10 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 12:08:33 pm
Anglezarke Quarry December 2010 - Beginners wall area. Evidence of toproping, general scratch marks on routes and climb back down into quarry

Kilnsey Apr/may 2010 - Furthest route on left F5+ dont know name, where everyone goes for a leak. Scratches noticed all way up route, obvioulsy a couple of months old.

stevej

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#11 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 12:11:11 pm
Clocked some crampon scratches on jackdaw ridge (Shepherds, Borrowdale) last summer. Can't have been more than a few ascents worth but since it's really not a sensible winter line/venue by any stretch of the imagination

Actually, I reckon it's important that a distinction is made between damage caused by the can of worms that is 'mixed' and wanton dry tooling (which, bar Tryfan, the rest of those examples are)

slackline

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#12 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 12:47:39 pm
If a site admin could modify the Wiki such that upload directory (public) is writeable then I shall upload and embed pics taken in Castle Quarry (currently its not and an Internal error is returned that reads "The upload directory (public) is not writable by the webserver.").

Bubba

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#13 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 01:00:44 pm
Sorry, something I always forget to set back when dong site-wide chmods. Should be writeable now.

In fact, the whole wiki needs an upgrade. If it actually starts getting used then I'll go for it.

slackline

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#14 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 01:06:39 pm
Nice one Bubba, cheers, pics uploaded.

chalkyjim

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#15 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 03:24:08 pm
Chevin too.

petejh

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#16 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 04:21:52 pm
Castle Inn Quarry Have pictures taken on early March 2011, locals also climbing there said the scratches had been there for a year or so already (still looked fresh, so goes to show the damage caused doesn't disappear over-night/year).

Castle Inn, North Wales?


slackline

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#17 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 22, 2011, 04:23:57 pm
Castle Inn Quarry Have pictures taken on early March 2011, locals also climbing there said the scratches had been there for a year or so already (still looked fresh, so goes to show the damage caused doesn't disappear over-night/year).

Castle Inn, North Wales?

Yes, on the wall with Indian Summer on, think the scratching is on the VS 4c to the right, Mynydd Marian (pics in Wiki taken when being lowered down from the top of Indian Summer).

chris05

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#18 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 24, 2011, 09:11:05 am
Apparently also happening at Kingussie crag (from the other channel):

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=451938

Really worrying trend.   :(

SA Chris

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#19 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 24, 2011, 09:26:24 am
hear mention of it at Poll Dubh Crags as well. Not sure which routes though.

fatboySlimfast

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#20 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 24, 2011, 10:54:55 am
Some definitely around top of the Cioch at Burbage South and some on the gully round the side, would have to have another look to give definite location but walked over it last night on way back to car.

crimp

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#21 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 11, 2013, 09:50:45 am
Just found this on tinterweb. First time I've become aware of it round yer.

Anybody know if there is any dry tooling damage at Brean? Or other instances in region? There's enough loose rock about without people levering it loose.


petejh

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#22 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 11, 2013, 10:30:02 am
 :slap:

I'm not familiar with Brean, is he on the sport climbing crag?

Terrible music too, god sometimes I feel embarrassed to be into dry-tooling.

crimp

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#23 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 11, 2013, 10:43:32 am
Not sure whereabouts on crag he is. Or if it was a one off visit to practice the dark arts. There's a good mix of sport, trad, and bouldering.

Wondered if anyone has clocked any tooling damage to routes

GazM

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#24 Re: Dry Tooling Damage Thread
March 11, 2013, 11:11:03 am
I think that's in the little bay inland of the sport area.  There's some OK bouldering there (i.e. quite good for that part of the world).  Not cool.

 

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