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[Peak][Wolf Edge][Quantum arete on left?][7b-7b+] (Read 2294 times)

Nan

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Went up wolf edge today and did project quantum the same way was in Krank's video then decided to see if it would go on its left hand side.  Thought it to be a morpho 7b/7b+.  Has this been done before? If not then will have to give it a name, thought it was a pretty good problem only spoilt by the landing really.

cofe

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It's Quantum Leap on it's left, 7a+/b.

Nan

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Ahh should have checked the evil twin first but didn't think it would be on there.  Think its more like 7b felt harder than climbing it on its right.

dave k

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I certainly named it and probably did the first ascent. I gave it v8, although TBH I was not sure as I got it third go (well after trying the top section by traversing in), which doesn`t normally happen with me at this grade. (Certainly not first ascents) I certainly found it easier than undercut dyno at the Roaches, which I feel is every bit 7b!!!

I am glad you liked it. I had kittens when i first visited the place (Thanks to High over Buxton guide) and realised this boulder had these unclimbed lines.

Hopefully the new guidebook will give Wolf Edge (a little) more profile and keep these problems in better condition. 


Krank

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afternoon Dave, did you dyno this? i seem to remember you said you did. I met Nan on sunday and he said he climbed the arete with some heel/toe action. If im right on both counts then the 2 grades would be different, 1 for the dyno and 1 for climbing the arete.

Nan

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#5 Quantum leap
March 14, 2011, 01:18:31 pm
You are half right krank i didn't dyno as you would have to be a looney (sorry dave) to do that above that landing. I used a left kneebar to hold me in while i worked both hands higher up the arete then left hand on a chickenhead to release the knee sort feet and reach up with left hand. Think 7b more than 7b+ but harder the on its other side. 7a+ on its other side maybe?

dave k

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I guess the name gives it away- I performed a smallish dynamic move to the break with the left hand. The landing is not that bad. I am rather a wuss when it comes to landings/height. I had 2 smallish mats and a spotter.

I don`t remember any chicken heads (it has been a while though), except those above the drystone wall thing, which can be climbed by themselves over a shocking landing. The chicken heads are rather fragile too.




 

 

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