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anstey's cove (Read 25076 times)

markwellin

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anstey's cove
February 24, 2011, 10:44:16 am
alright guys,

could anyone help we with some info for here please?
planning to go somewhere other than sportland or swanage for two days next friday and saturday.
weather forecast says it should be mainly dry after this weekend, so will the crag be seeping after 4 dry days?
also is there places nearby that you can wild camp without pissing anyone off?

the plan is to get on one of the classic 7c+'s or the cider soak so specific seepage warnings for any of those routes would be great.

cheers

chris j

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#1 Re: anstey's cove
February 24, 2011, 12:25:29 pm
Haven't been down recently (owing to all the rain) so someone else may be along with more current observations but Ansteys does get quite a lot of seepage in the winter so it's probably 50/50 whether your planned routes will be ok or not.

Empire and Oozy in my pocket will almost certainly be wet in the lower third, Just Revenge/Avenged the crimp on the crux tends to take drainage so while the rest of the route could be ok you might suffer there. The cider soak, there's a seepage line that goes down to the pocket at the end of the crux so that could well be damp. The Lynch will probably be gopping inside the crack (not that you were planning on doing that!).

Wild camping, can't really help I'm afraid. I would have thought nowhere nearby (unless you want to hunker down in a corner of Long Quarry Point) owing to all the dog walkers, someone else might be along who knows different though.

TobyD

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#2 Re: anstey's cove
February 24, 2011, 11:42:14 pm
weather forecast says it should be mainly dry after this weekend, so will the crag be seeping after 4 dry days?
also is there places nearby that you can wild camp without pissing anyone off?

the plan is to get on one of the classic 7c+'s or the cider soak so specific seepage warnings for any of those routes would be great.

there will likely be plenty of dryness, although ansteys can be very unpredictable at times (ie great when you think its likely to be cack and vice versa). However, TCS seeps quite a bit, the pocket doesn't make too much difference, but if the jugs below the final groove are soaked it'llbe an awful lot harder.
JR will likely be ok ish but wet deep in breaks, and possibly with a patch or two. On the plus side, the cocytus area is nearly always dry, as is la creme, devonshire cream, how the mighty fall and several others.

camping: if you hike down onto long quarry point that would be sound, there may be fishermen there too. don't camp on walls hill downs, as much because local youths / doggers will bother you as because people who live nearby won't like it. Dossing at the crag also possibly not cool as could jeopardise access. Sorry don't know of any quality torbay dosses.

wolfgang

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#3 Re: anstey's cove
March 10, 2011, 09:55:27 am
Any weather knowledge on 'revenge' or just ansteys in general?

wolfgang

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#4 Re: anstey's cove
May 09, 2011, 06:49:06 pm
still no news??

Nick S

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#5 Re: anstey's cove
December 06, 2011, 10:00:54 am
Anyone got any idea what Ansteys is doing at the moment seepage wise? Worth a punt?

Mostly interested in Empire.

In the event that Ansteys is gopping, is Torbryn likely to be a good backup choice...?

AJM

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#6 Re: anstey's cove
February 21, 2012, 12:29:41 pm
Anyone been down of late? Interested in either Torbryan or Ansteys, Empire would be an obvious target but happy to go for other classics in the 7s instead given Empires reputation for seepage. Be nice if some of the easier stuff like Might and Main or that 6c at Torbryan were dry too so my better half will have something to do...

TobyD

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#7 Re: anstey's cove
February 21, 2012, 09:05:55 pm
Anyone been down of late? Interested in either Torbryan or Ansteys, Empire would be an obvious target but happy to go for other classics in the 7s instead given Empires reputation for seepage. Be nice if some of the easier stuff like Might and Main or that 6c at Torbryan were dry too so my better half will have something to do...

I was at the Cove yesterday.
Empire? you must be joking... I'm afraid midwinter conditions on that one are usually very poor indeed, and it is soaking at the moment.  M&M will likely be dry. The ferocity wall is dry apart from cider soak; the slabs at the bottom will be ok.

Torbryan.... not been for a while, but if you mean mayday, it usually has a wet bit or two at this time of year at least. the other two 6c ish routes dry more quickly. (boogie on down and the slightly off vertical one on the right)

Hope that helps

AJM

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#8 Re: anstey's cove
February 21, 2012, 09:19:33 pm
Cheers Toby.

Yeah I figured Empire might be a long shot, but I've only been down there once before (yes, empire was soaking) but it was so long ago I couldn't remember if that was after wet weather or what. Hey ho.

I assume the slabs at the bottom = cocytus and it's neighbours - if so I guess that means Ansteys has more options at the minute than Torbryan - any idea on how the *** 7a+ ish one there (thread flintstone?) is for drying time - any better than Empire? It's flowstone isn't it...

Cheers for the beta!

Andy

TobyD

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#9 Re: anstey's cove
February 22, 2012, 09:59:01 am
I assume the slabs at the bottom = cocytus and it's neighbours - if so I guess that means Ansteys has more options at the minute than Torbryan - any idea on how the *** 7a+ ish one there (thread flintstone?) is for drying time - any better than Empire? It's flowstone isn't it...

It is very rare that you cannot climb anything at Ansteys. Cocytus itself takes a little while to dry, but if the sun is out, American Express 7a+, La creme 7c+ (V8!), More Steam... 7b, tuppence 8b, Nowt ta do... 7a, and a few others dry within an hour or two.  Others such as How the mighty... 7a+ a little longer, but not much. Empire takes a week or so at least.
Torbryan is pretty quick drying apart from a few holes and pockets, and is not a bad winter crag. Thread Flintstone will certainly be dry a LOT quicker than Empire, but it will depend how much the sun had been out in the afternoons there (when it gets it). TF is probably about the same difficulty for most people as Empire BTW... and yes it is flowstone, and brilliant.

AJM

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#10 Re: anstey's cove
February 22, 2012, 10:18:36 am
La creme 7c+ (V8!)

I was hoping to push to 7c+ this year, but if it's V8 I will remove that one from the list of potential targets and find something less bouldery!

TobyD

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#11 Re: anstey's cove
February 23, 2012, 03:04:33 pm
La creme 7c+ (V8!)
I was hoping to push to 7c+ this year, but if it's V8 I will remove that one from the list of potential targets and find something less bouldery!

I am shit at really hard moves, but i think frustrating, slopy conditions dependent V8 is about right.

Threadbare is a comparative path, and even easier if you are tall, or have very small fingers. There is a really steady one at Churston too, if you like slabs.

i_a_coops

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#12 Re: anstey's cove
February 23, 2012, 03:16:57 pm
I heard the hold after the slopey gaston at the top of Threadbare had come off fairly recently - is this true and if so, does anyone know how much harder it is now?

AJM

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#13 Re: anstey's cove
February 26, 2012, 07:55:19 pm
For anyone that's interested, Torbryan was in decent nick today - some slimy holds at the very bottom of Thread Flintstone and Barney Rubble but both those got done together with Boogie on Down and Bedrock. Sme of the other stuff looked ok too.

Thread Flintstone was ace!

Duncan campbell

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#14 Re: anstey's cove
April 08, 2012, 12:20:26 pm
Anyone know how Anstey's is looking at the moment? I'm looking at getting on Empire of the Sun as a first 7b so not really capable of climbing it if it's more than very slightly wet.

It is supposed to piss down all day tomorrow, will it be ok on Tuesday? The top is slabby isn't it, so that will render it unclimbable tomorrow I guess?

Anyway, any beta on conditions would be well recieved  :) I'll ask some people who live down this was and are in the know and post up anything useful...

Dunc

Duncan campbell

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#15 Re: anstey's cove
April 11, 2012, 10:29:08 am
I doubt anyone cares or needs to know conditions for here, but went yesterday and climbed during intermittent heavy rain and hail showers!

Only a small bit of wetness on Empire at the break but it doesn't make any difference to the climbing. Top left hand pocket was a bit gummy though and this got very wet after showers as the water drained straight off the top into it. Still well doable, though not quite for me.

My mate was lapping Avenged and that was all fine too I think apart from the wet pocket on Empire. But if it isn't showery then this will be fine. 

HTH someone  :)

Dunc

chris j

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#16 Re: anstey's cove
June 11, 2012, 10:57:14 pm
Anyone know how much seepage there is at Ansteys at the mo? With all the rain I'm guessing all the usual suspects will be dripping but if anyone's got an update before we head down for a look on Weds that would be appreciated!

Willersley

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#17 Re: anstey's cove
June 12, 2012, 11:13:57 am
I was there briefly on Saturday. Wall with Empire on was pretty streaky with seepage, How the mighty fall was climbable (that's all I did) and there were folks on Tuppence. The Lynch looked damp but the rest of that wall looked OK. Sunday was miserable though and must have put down a fair bit more water - we just drove North to outrun the rain...

Steamboat Stello

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#18 Re: anstey's cove
June 13, 2012, 11:31:25 am
Anybody going down this week or have a magic wand and would like to predict if Cider Soak (or anything else!) will be dry on Saturday? I've got a very rare free pass of the year to climb on Sat and it looks like the whole countrys gonna crap out  :'( 

chris j

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#19 Re: anstey's cove
June 13, 2012, 04:33:02 pm
Ta for the info. We didn't chance it today but went to Torbryan instead. And despite bone-dry roads fuelling hope on the way in from Newton Abbott it is absolutely gopping at the mo, never seen it this bad even in the depths of winter. The first 3 bolts of Barney Rubble were pretty much the only dry rock on the crag.

iain

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#20 Re: anstey's cove
June 15, 2012, 09:23:07 am
Anybody going down this week or have a magic wand and would like to predict if Cider Soak (or anything else!) will be dry on Saturday?

Second this, anyone?

Steamboat Stello

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#21 Re: anstey's cove
June 15, 2012, 10:14:07 am
Anybody going down this week or have a magic wand and would like to predict if Cider Soak (or anything else!) will be dry on Saturday?

Second this, anyone?

Yeah where are all the devon full-timers hiding? Pull your socks up guys! I'll find out how much it rained last few days but I am tempted to risk it Iain. Will have to try and persuade others that it's worthwhile.

chris j

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#22 Re: anstey's cove
June 15, 2012, 10:21:00 am


Yeah where are all the devon full-timers hiding?

Indoors because it's raining every day!  >:(

Steamboat Stello

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#23 Re: anstey's cove
June 15, 2012, 10:49:18 am


Yeah where are all the devon full-timers hiding?

Indoors because it's raining every day!  >:(

That's no excuse! You should be driving round in the rain desperately seeking the one piece of dry rock in the county so that you can report it on here and win the praise and admiration of your peers!  ;)

MusselsfromBrussels

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#24 Re: anstey's cove
June 15, 2012, 02:11:56 pm
Not looking good down in Devon! Some of the boulder caves in Chudleigh could be dry and that's about it I bet! Have a look at the predicted rain rate tomorrow!
Otherwise, there's always DWS in the rain ...
Just give me a shout in the morning and we'll arrange something

 

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