Bouldering on your limit is the best form of training?....

[gruffalo]

I'm a regular at the wall most evenings and when I'm there try to but in 100%
effort in  my bouldering, the brains behind it is not only enjoying pushing myself
but to get stronger/more skilled.  I have seen great results doing this.                              My thoughts are is any need to fingerboard/use weights etc when I'm already pulling as hard as possible I guess it's about using the training time to maximise the outcome
what ever that might be.

[a dense loner]

What uve seen great results from putting 100% effort in? Fancy that, the answers been staring me in my face for yrs. there are many ways to skin a cat

[SA Chris]

if you are there most evenings, surely you haven't got time for fingerboarding?

[gruffalo]

I'm training most evenings Chris, that doesn't mean I shouldn't be substituting one or two days training another type of system if its more productive than just hard bouldering.

[SA Chris]

If you are improving by what you're doing, I wouldn't sweat it. I guess it all depends what level you are at and how long you have been doing it.

Personally if I could boulder on problems all the time I would as I find it a lot more enjoyable that all this fingerboarding malarkey.

[honroid]

Hells yeah. The main reason I fingerboard now is my 'steady job' and the fact that I have to take work home. If you can boulder all the time, do it. When I had more time I climbed more often but at the moment I pretty much just climb weekends. If you have the time resources and above all you are progressing, why change?

[habrich]

My thoughts are is any need to fingerboard/use weights etc when I'm already pulling as hard as possible I guess it's about using the training time to maximise the outcome
what ever that might be.

I think you have answered your own question: you need to define your objective. If it is to be good at bouldering indoors, you're probably on the right track. If you want to be good at climbing outside, whether just boulders or routes, you probably need to do something else as well. Note, for example, that nice blobby plastic footholds are rare outdoors. Dave Macleod's "9 out of 10 climbers ..." book is strong on this kind of issue.

[Dr T]

Not sure if it's going to be relevant in this case but I remember seeing an article a while back by Lucinda W pointing out that often people just bouldering "at their limit" start to get a little weaker because they're not putting in the same amount of climbing per hour of training - i.e. there is a requirement to climb volume under your limit to maintain both technique and strength

[kaotikuk]

Is climbing everyday good though? should you not let your body recover? Ive only been climbing 3 months or so im still figuring it out. I tend to go every other day but ye not sure.

[Stevie]

I'd be interested to know how long you've been at this for and as to whether you've seen any plateaus in that time?

Have you had any rest days?

Easier days?

or has it been balls out 24/7?

Thanks
Steve

[krymson]

yes you should definitely be doing other stuff - but mainly for injury prevention.

Shoulders(all 3 heads and the rotary cuff), scapula retraction, wrist extensors, finger extensors, triceps. These are the main things to work on that will keep you climbing strong in the long run.

It sounds like a lot and in a way it is, but none of the exercises need to take too long, none of them need to be that intensive, and it's totally worth it. I do this stuff 2 hours total a week and it's plenty.