UKBouldering.com

issue: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades (Read 133957 times)

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
issue: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 08:18:48 pm
As me and the legal profession's pocket-sized Perry Mason are finishing off the new Peak bouldering guide at the minute, I thought I'd inadvisedly throw a grade debate open to the general riff-raff, i.e. you lot.

Note this is an opportunity to voice your thoughts and help us ensure we're close to consensus on stuff, rather than an excuse to compare cock size. Please bear that in mind as you move to unzip your fly. It builds to a degree on Bonjoy's grade changes thread from a couple of years ago.

Here's a few to get the ball rolling:

  • Flatworld: Now settled at 7b+.
  • Terrace: 7c.
  • Electrical Storm: up to 7b.
  • Kudos (any/either way): up to 7b.
  • Dick Williams: down to 7b.
  • River of Life: 7c+ or 8a?

(I've picked problems in the 7s, as that's what I'm expecting to get feedback on.)

Discuss.*

*I immediately regret this...
« Last Edit: December 21, 2010, 10:09:42 am by ukb »

Eddies

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1245
  • Karma: +52/-6
#1 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 08:29:22 pm
I agree with both Electric Storm and Kudos being 7b.
Little Richard should go up to 7a+ in my opinion.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#2 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 08:42:29 pm
WSS to 7C?

go on you know you want to

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20284
  • Karma: +641/-11
#3 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 08:58:18 pm
Whats the going  :greed: rate to up a Font Grade Cofe?  ;) I think I've just figured out a new way to meet my 2010 goals  :-\

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#4 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 08:59:51 pm
Everything has a price. ;)

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#5 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:07:14 pm
Giza....7b/b+?
Back in the YMCA..... 7b+?
Fact Hunt.....7a+?

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#6 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:16:22 pm
Giza harder for the short I think, felt 7B+ to me.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
#7 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:20:06 pm
Giza....7b/b+?
Back in the YMCA..... 7b+?
Fact Hunt.....7a+?

Giza is in at 7b+,

Fact Hunt is in at 7a+

Back in the YMCA is in at 7b+

I left WSS in at 7b+ for old times sakes. I admit it's a smidge harder without the pebble but I still thought it was 7b+ (and yes I have. With witnesses. If you count Dylan.)

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1149
  • Karma: +126/-0
#8 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:21:18 pm
Piss at 7a+? Certainly feels to be more than half a grade between this and sh!t.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#9 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:32:10 pm
Kudos is about 9B anyway I try it.

Agree with Piss and Shit being a full grade apart, work that as suits.

Is Ben's Roof 7C nowadays? It's easier than Powerband.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
#10 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:36:31 pm
Is Ben's Roof 7C nowadays? It's easier than Powerband.

You'd think that a 7c+ on which the crux hold doubled in size, an easier finish was found and a no-hands knee-bar rest was discovered in the middle would go down a grade. But no. Its still in as 7c+.

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1838
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#11 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:40:50 pm
Here we fucking go.

I vote that only people who have done over 600 7s and 8s in the Peak have enough knowledge to accurately grade anything.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#12 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:45:38 pm
What have I started?

I'm happy for Ben's to stay as 7C+, but that only makes sense if Powerband is also 7C+, which would surely make Staminaband more than 8A at which point I can only presume the Earth would spin off it's axis and plunge headlong into the sun engulfing us all in flame or such-like...

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#13 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:48:00 pm
Out West,
you probably know Monologue not 7C
S&M down to 7a.
Stall Arete > 7a, shirley.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#14 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:49:55 pm
Monologue at 7b+. S&M still 7a+ at the mo... Stall 7a.

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1149
  • Karma: +126/-0
#15 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:53:52 pm
Stall Arete > 7a, shirley.

I'd agree with Stall at 7a. Hard for 7a, but not worth the plus (and don't call me shirley).

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
#16 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:55:41 pm
I'm happy for Ben's to stay as 7C+, but that only makes sense if Powerband is also 7C+, which would surely make Staminaband more than 8A at which point I can only presume the Earth would spin off it's axis and plunge headlong into the sun engulfing us all in flame or such-like...

Powerband is much harder if you're short, like we are. I think for most people it's 7c.

robertostallioni

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2285
  • Karma: +197/-2
#17 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 09:57:43 pm
Is it harder if you're hairy?

Serpico

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1229
  • Karma: +106/-1
    • The Craig Y Longridge Wiki
#18 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 10:04:34 pm
...But no. Its still in as 7c+.

Cheque's in the post your honour.

dave

  • Guest
#19 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 10:08:50 pm
I left WSS in at 7b+ for old times sakes. I admit it's a smidge harder without the pebble but I still thought it was 7b+ (and yes I have. With witnesses. If you count Dylan.)

Plus maybe half of the sequences people use don't even use the pebble anyway - you can't give those people a free upgrade for nothing. Its not as if the top sidepull fell off.

whats tumbleweed in at, 7c+?

I'd also like to table a motion to get bigger splash direct kneeling start (aka tsuneeling spash) in at 7c.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
#20 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 10:14:44 pm
Plus maybe half of the sequences people use don't even use the pebble anyway - you can't give those people a free upgrade for nothing. Its not as if the top sidepull fell off.

whats tumbleweed in at, 7c+?


True and yes.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#21 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 10:33:51 pm
I'm happy for Ben's to stay as 7C+, but that only makes sense if Powerband is also 7C+, which would surely make Staminaband more than 8A at which point I can only presume the Earth would spin off it's axis and plunge headlong into the sun engulfing us all in flame or such-like...

Powerband is much harder if you're short, like we are. I think for most people it's 7c.
:agree:
BR is on average harder for the average of height.
Which hold got bigger on Ben's Roof, is this recent?

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#22 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 10:34:51 pm
Oh and Left Spur is 9d.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
#23 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 10:54:39 pm
Which hold got bigger on Ben's Roof, is this recent?

No, it predated the first guide (as did the kneebar etc). It's the left hand sidepull/undercut reached off the right hand crimp in the roof before you walk your feet round to the side wall. There used to be some crozzle on the lip so you couldn't get as many fingers in the good bit.

Left Spur now 7b.

Moo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1444
  • Karma: +84/-6
#24 Re: Downgrade the Peak/Cash for Grades
December 20, 2010, 11:29:29 pm
agreed with kudos being 7b

can see how small less powerful people might think the terrace is tough for 7c but I think it's fair

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal