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Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves – Climbing Gear Review
22 February 2014, 8:21 am



Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves I recently reviewed the Alpine Alibi II Gloves from Outdoor Research concluding that they were a great protective gauntlet, but I did have a few issues with the fit, particularly the thumbs.So how do the Men’s Luminary Gloves compare? Performance*****

Durability****

Value*****

Well the Luminary is a gauntlet style glove but rather than having full waterproof protection via a Gore-Tex insert, OR have gone for a Gore Windstopper fabric instead. As a result the Luminary does offer fantastic weather protection (100% windproof, very breathable), but it is not waterproof. As such it performs best in cold and dry climates such as those found more regularly in the European Alps.

 

Outdoor Research say: “Technical ice climbing gloves designed for elite climbers, the windproof Luminary Gloves™ provide excellent dexterity while shielding from brutal weather conditions. Incredibly versatile three-in-one gloves.“

I’ve used the Luminary Gloves in Scotland this winter, whilst ice and mixed climbing and also in the Alps for skiing and climbing. They’re my current favourite gloves as they are so comfortable and versatile and this time, the fit is perfect for me (my test pair are Size Small). Again, fit is all down to you and not every glove will fit you perfectly. It’s really important to try them on before buying them. I find that the Luminary Gloves are warm but incredibly dexterous and I will quite happily lead technical ice and mixed pitches in these.

The Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves are great for technical leads but also perfect as a warmer belay glove with the fleece liners. The loops allow easy attachment to your harness when climbing. I sometimes swap the removable fleece liners for a thinner silk pair on harder leads and this works fine without compromising the performance other than reducing the warmth a little. With some modular gloves in the past I’ve had issues with removing and replacing liner gloves, but not so with the Luminary, it all works very smoothly.

Warmth wise, the Luminary is marketed as a warm glove being suitable for a temperature range of -4 to -17 degrees C. I suffer with cold extremities due to poor circulation but have found these will keep my hans adequately warm in temperatures down to -10 C even when stationary, so they are definitely a warm glove. It is important to remember though, that as your gloves get damp, they will be less effective at insulating and this is why I always carry two or three pairs and swap between them, drying the others next to my skin.

Now let’s have a look at the features in a little bit more detail. The 100-Weight Fleece Removable Liner is comfortable, insulates effectively and fits well. It also slides in and out of the shell easily and is not hindered by the shell’s microfleece lining. This can be a problem with removeable liner gloves particularly when things get damp. The WINDSTOPPER® Soft Shell 94% nylon, 6% spandex fabric is windproof, flexible and more breathable than a full on waterproof fabric, but the downside is it is less likely to keep your hands dry when the precipitation really kicks off.

Although marketed as an ice climbing glove, the Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves are great for a whole range of mountain activities. The combination of the 100% goat leather palm and fingers and the flexible soft shell fabric means that the luminary gloves are both durable and tactile. I can do most tasks in a pair of these, they have taken on multiple abseils too and are still looking pretty new.

I really like the cinch closure system which is easy to operate both on and off. These are a gauntlet glove and I feel that the extra protection this offers does not compromise flexibility. I also like the idiot loops which greatly reduce the risk of me dropping them when I do take them off.

So, I can conclude that The Luminary Gloves are awesome. They fit perfectly (for me), are well made, flexible and warm. Dexterity is great for a glove of this warmth too and I can highly recommend them for everything from technical ice to ski mountaineering. A great offering from OR and well worth the £100 as far as I’m concerned.

• RRP: £100
• To find out more visit the Outdoor Research website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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The North Face Men’s Kichatna Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
24 February 2014, 5:56 pm



Kev tests out the Kichatna Jacket from The North Face on some classic off piste ski descents in the Alps. Performance ****

Features *****

Value ****

The North Face say that their Kichatna Jacket, “is a technical, helmet compatible ski mountaineering shell in Gore-Tex Pro Shell for backcountry missions.” Paired with the Kichatna Bibs (review here ), it is designed to deliver top notch weather protection and performance to ski mountaineers.

So, firstly, it is important to say that whilst being part of The North Face’s Summit Series, the Kichatna Jacket is not an out and out climbing shell. It is aimed at skiers who may need to climb technical snow, ice or rock, or maybe just do a bit of strenuous skinning uphill, to reach their off-piste ski objective. Then they will snap on their skis and descend. This means the jacket needs to be flexible, allowing freedom of movement, breathability and durability on the up, before protecting you from the elements, such as wind and deep powder snow, on the way down. Does the Kichatna Jacket manage this and if so, how?

The North Face Kichatna Jacket is perfect for off piste skiing and mountaineering such as that found here in La Grave, France. Well, the Kichatna Jacket is fully featured. It has an enormous helmet compatible hood which fits easily over both my climbing and skiing helmets, and the adjusters and laminated brim work well to fasten it securely, whether it is up or down and also make sure it does not interfere with peripheral vision. I was really pleased to see such a good hood on this jacket, as a poor hood is the one thing that let’s many technical shells down.

TNF have added “tough grip-zones” on the shoulders of the Kichatna Jacket, apparently to help “keep your pack in place”. I’ve never really had an issue with this and I did think it was perhaps a little bit overkill. It does add an extra bit of durability particularly on the shoulders though, an area that is prone to abrasion and nicks when carrying skis or shouldering ice tools.

The North Face Kichatna Jacket, off in search of powder in the Vallee Blanche, Chamonix. I personally found the Kichatna to be quite a roomy fit in the body. Not huge, but definitely not as trim as some other climbing shells I have worn. However as this is not an out and out climbing jacket, this is perhaps to be expected. I am 5 feet 9 inches tall, weigh 65kg and tested a size Small. This was perfect for me I think, but if I was any slimmer, it may have felt a little too big around the middle. So the cut of the jacket was a compromise. Roomy enough in the body for skiing and accommodating extra layer layers underneath and also other items such as an avalanche transceiver. With a baselayer, midlayer, light down jacket and my transceiver underneath, it still fitted comfortably and allowed my body and arms to move freely but did feel slightly bulky. Sleeve length was perfect and the jacket didn’t ride up when I was climbing and had my hands above my head though.

The North Face Kichatna Jacket is not just a ski jacket and would appeal to those who want an all round mountain jacket. The hood is awesome! The Kichatna sits just below the hip and is slightly longer at the back, covering my bum. This length worked well with a climbing harness and the pocket configuration didn’t interfere here either. I did find that the internal removable powder skirt provided a little too much extra bulk for my liking but I just rectified this by taking it out when I was using the jacket with a harness and leaving the powder skirt at home, this way it didn’t obscure my vision when looking down or wearing my harness. It was nice to have a powder skirt on those days when I was skiing powder off lifts on none glaciated terrain though and it just kept me that little bit more comfortable.

Going back to the pockets and the Kichatna Jacket has many! Probably too many for my liking really, even on a fully featured jacket like this. I’d be happy with 2 handwarmer pockets or 2 chest pockets, but the Kichatna offers both! Others may like this feature though, but I feel fewer pockets would still offer sufficient storage, whilst giving the Kichatna a slicker feel.

The hem drawcord is adjusted via toggles situated in the handwarmer pockets, and this works really nicely, adding a clean uncluttered element to the outside of the jacket. I also like the way the hood drawcords are secured as there is much less chance of one whipping you in the face in a gale!

Looking more closely at the fabric, the Kichatna Jacket is manufactured using 40D 105 g/m² 100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell ripstop with a micro grid ripstop woven backer in the body and a 80D 150 g/m² 100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell plain weave with a micro grid ripstop woven backer, in the shoulder and underarm area.

This 3 layer construction is tough and durable in terms of it’s protection from the rain and wind, but there is a slight compromise in terms of breathability. This is the case with any fully waterproof shell though. I didn’t have a problem with the breathability of the jacket, particularly in cold dry environments such as the European Alps. And on warm days or when doing strenuous activities like skinning uphill, I would layer accordingly or use the pit zips. It also kept me perfectly dry in the wet winter weather we’ve had in the UK of late. The construction of the jacket with all 3 layers being bonded together as one, means less wear and tear, and also less bulk.

So, to conclude, the Kichatna Jacket does what it says on the tin. It would be a great choice for the all round UK mountaineer, is a brilliant ski jacket and when paired with the Kichatna bibs, provides full on storm protection for skiers and climbers. The hood is awesome. The only downsides for me are the slightly bulky cut in the midriff and maybe it could lose a pocket or two. A great all round mountaineering shell.

The North Face Kichatna Jacket can be paired with the Kichatna Bibs, a review of which is available here.

• RRP: £350
• Find out more on The North Face website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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The North Face Men’s Kichatna Bibs – Climbing Gear Review
25 February 2014, 1:40 pm

Following on from his review of the Kichatna Jacket, Kev looks at their counterpart, The North Face Kichatna Bibs… Performance ****

Features ****

Value ****

This winter I’ve been reviewing a ski mountaineering hard shell combo from The North Face. The Kichatna Jacket (read the review here) and their counterpart, the Kichatna Bibs. I concluded that the Kichatna Jacket was a great all round ski mountaineering jacket, so what about the Bibs?

The North Face Kichatna Bibs: great fit and articulation for skiing. Well, The North Face say that the: “Men’s Kichatna Bib is a technical, ski mountaineering bib pant in Gore-Tex Pro Shell for backcountry missions.”

So let’s have a look at the features. The Kichatna bibs are a fully waterproof, windproof and breathable bib pant designed for ski mountaineering and ski touring in harsh weather. They are made using 40D 105 g/m² 100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell ripstop, with a micro grid ripstop woven backer on the main areas and a tougher

80D 150 g/m²100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell plain weave with a micro grid ripstop woven backer, on the seat and knees.

The bib/body part is manufactured in 225 g/m² 85% polyester, 15% elastane double knit with FlashDry™, meaning it is flexible and breathable as well as quick drying. It does offer a bit of weather protection to your core area, however there is no real need to produce this part in a hard shell fabric as it would compromise breathabilty, and your jacket protects this area anyway.

I found the bib to be very comfortable, fitting closely and not rucking up or being excessively bulky. It worked very well with my other layers. The low profile, laminated zippered pocket was great for keeping my car key secured. The polyester/elastane bib fabric stretches down to waist level and this close fitting bib negates the need for a belt. It was very secure when coupled with the braces and I never felt like the trousers were falling down. Not having a belt meant that there was no excess bulk around the waist and this was really noticeable when wearing a climbing harness.

In terms of fit, the Kichatna Bibs were great. I am 5 feet 9 inches tall, weigh 65kg and have a 30 inch waist with a regular inside leg. I tested a pair in size small and could probably not have asked for more if they had been designed specifically for me! TNF do not offer different leg lengths though so others may find that the fit is not so appealing, but it’s all about trying them on and finding out what works for you.

The cut of the leg on the Kichatna Bibs is great for skiing. It has great articulation meaning the trouser legs move with you, not against you and the hem and internal gaiter easily fit over ski boots. This is aided by the zipper on the gaiter (better than velcro or press studs in my opinion, although perhaps heavier) and also the outer leg zips which stretch up as far as the hips. Whilst the full length zippers allowed the bibs to be ventilated easily and also put on and taken off while wearing ski boots, they did not allow me to answer the more serious call of nature very easily, particularly when wearing a climbing harness! The zippered fly was fine for less serious calls, but I would like to see a glove friendly tab as standard on a £320 bib pant.

The cut of the Kichatna Bibs was also fine for climbing although a bit roomier round the calf than I would look for in an out and out climbing pant. This is a compromise though as the Kichatna Bibs are trying to touch many bases, with climbing, skiing and general mountaineering, and they do this very well.

The North Face Kichatna Bibs: great for climbing too, although roomier around the lower leg than I would want if this was an out and out climbing pant. Note the kick patch reinforcement. The Kichatna Bibs have a 190 g/m² 72% nylon,28% Kevlar® schoeller®-keprotec® reinforcement around the cuffs and this has done a good job of protecting the area covered by this particular fabric. However I have found that I have managed to slice the area around the ankles that is not reinforced (this may be down to my skiing ability!) and it would be nice to see the reinforcement stretch all the way around the lower leg, although I suppose this would be a more ski specific feature and add extra weight.

The North Face Kichatna Bibs coupled with the Kichatna Jacket offer great weather protection for ski mountaineering. Here Kev gets ready to ski off from the Requin Hut, Chamonix. A couple of other things I like on the Kichatna Bibs are the pockets, which are low bulk and don’t interfere with a harness. They also have glove friendly zipper tabs. Finally, the gaiters are equipped with tie down loops so you can add your own under boot elastics should you wish to.

So, to conclude, the Kichatna Bibs are a great pair of ski mountaineering pants offering full weather protection in the harshest conditions. They are probably a little too much for Spring ski touring as I’d be more likely to wear a softshell trouser, but the side zips certainly offer adequate ventilation. I particularly like the low profile bib and waist, as well as the leg cut for skiing. They work fine for climbing but are not an out and out climbing pant. A drop seat and extra cuff reinforcement would be two key updates for me. Team them up with the Kichatna Jacket (review here) for full on storm protection.

• RRP: £320
• Find out more at The North Face website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Haglöfs Triton II Hood – Climbing Gear Review
27 February 2014, 12:06 pm

CGR tests the new all terrain, 3 season mountain fleece from Haglöfs

The perfect three season mid layer, created from an interesting mix of materials. Provides excellent performance for all demanding mountain adventures.

 Performance ****

Style*****

Value****

We here at CGR are fans of the Swedish company Haglöfs, I remember testing a very early softshell way back when they had just started importing product into the UK. I was impressed with the workmanship and performance.

The Haglöfs Triton II Hood didn’t disappoint, although it is marketed as a three season fleece, I’ve been using it throughout (the admittedly rubbish) winter for all my mountain activities, from rock climbing to winter climbing.

The fabrics are a combination Polartec PowerStretch Pro and Polartec Thermal Pro. These are known performers and most climber and mountaineers will have used jackets with these materials before.

The PowerStretch panels ranged from the well fitted hood, over the shoulders and down the arms. It also stretched from under the armpits, down and around the waist area. So all the areas that were going to be stretched for climbing were made using the very stretchy PowerStretch – this made for great freedom of movement when reaching up for those distant holds or that blob of ice.

The Haglofs Triton II hood was snug and fitted well under a helmet. The sleeves were articulated to further enhance the movement and the sleeve ends were finished with thumb loops. I like thumbloops, I like to have them on when the approach is just warm enough to not need gloves but the breeze is enough to chill your hands. They also, without doubt, help keep my hands warm in cold weather when deployed with gloves. So a real plus point as far as I was concerned. The design was neat and the crossover minimised the actual hole size and the sleeve ends were double stitched to help keep the sleeve tight to the wrist.

Great freedom of movement for rock climbing. The fit was very athletic and body hugging which was great as I used it mostly as a midlayer that was worn under a hardshell, I used it with the very athletic Haglöfs Spire jacket and this was a great combination. The Haglofs Triton II Hood also had three pockets: two handwarmer and one stretchy chest pocket. The handwarmer pockets were fully accessible with a harness on so were great for stuffing gloves and a hat into, they had glove friendly zip tags that were bartacked for extra duarbility. The small chest pocket was made from a stretch material that had a laminated coating to make it more durable – it was big enough for some food bars, a phone or a small camera.

The hood was great, it fitted really snug and worked well under a helmet. As it was made from Powerstetch I had a full range of head movement. It zipped up to fully enclose my mouth and nose. The outside of the mouth area was laminated and had laser cut ventilation holes in it to help dispel goggle fogging. I was sceptical but it did actually work on the occasion I did using it – getting off The Ben in blizzard conditions. This feature would work really well in ski touring/mountaineering when you would be wearing goggles all day and it was well thought out.

All the zips were YKK coil zips that all worked well, the tags were glove friendly. They were bartacked in strategic places. The placket (the windguard that works behind the zip) was in the same laminated material as the chest pocket and mouth guard and worked brilliantly, it never got in the way of zip use or got caught. The large and easy to use hanging loop was on the outside which made it easy to hang in the drying room.

The Polartec fabrics were good for approaches, drying out quickly for the route. The rest of the Haglöfs Triton II Hood  was made with nice and warm Polartec Thermal Pro, this is a great midlayer fleece material that was warm, durable and ventilated well. I could get quite sweaty in it on the approach and it dried out really quickly under a hardshell. It remained comfortable all day long whether I wore it for winter action, rock climbing in January or hiking and running.

The Haglöfs Triton II Hood  has quickly become my winter staple and now that spring is approaching I can’t see it coming off any time soon. I’ve used it for all my mountain activities and now that my MIA working season is approaching I’ll be using it for that too.

Finally, it’s easy to balk at the price tag for these types of performance fleece  (a quick internet search will bring the SRP down) but you have to remember these products are superbly made, designed to perform and will last years and are often more vestatile than a softshell and so it has been with the Haglöfs Triton II Hood .

SRP £140.00

Stockists



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Tenaya  Oasi – Climbing Gear Review
2 March 2014, 9:36 am

CGR reviewer Katie reviews the latest performance climbing shoe from Spanish company Tenaya

Designed to achieve the highest levels of performance, the Oasi is exceptionally comfortable yet offers incredible precision and responsiveness, making rock climbing feel easier and more intuitive.

Performance *****

Quality****

Value for money *****

Six weeks ago I received the Tenaya Oasi to review, a top end precision climbing shoe worn by non other than Alex Magos, well I could probably stop the review there…but I won’t.

I’ve been pretty keen to try this shoe since it was first brought out; Tenayas fit me well, slim fit and a low volume heel; the Oasi has a higher heel but it doesn’t seem to be uncomfortable in the way other shoes are.

I’ll start with the sizing simply because it’s a little mad!  Now my shoe size is smallish a size 4uk and the smallest I’ve gone in a climbing shoe is 3.5uk in the Scarpa Instinct, but the Tenaya Oasi’s have taken me one further; I’ve been wearing them in a wopping 2.5uk!  This is not because I like to crush my feet, they just size them big.  So just bare that in mind, general rule with them is to go one size down from normal tech shoe size.  This is not the case for other Tenayas so don’t go with this as a rule for all.

Sizes go from 2-13uk with mid sizes as well.

Tenaya Oasi – a great fit for performance. Next up is the lacing system, technical name Draxtor PAT system , we’ll call it Velcro.  There are two thin Velcro straps that diagonally fasten across the front of the shoe.  It’s an okay system, nothing really mind blowing, they seem a little flimsy so I’m not sure how they’ll last but right now they’re solid.  As the straps are quite thin you have to make sure you strap them up properly or they  just come off.They can also be used as slipper so the lacing is optional really.

The material they use is Microfiber, with a cotton lining, so little stretch or smell should occur; they have a lycra tongue which feels nice and snug when on.

The sole is Vibram XS Grip 3.5mm which I find a really great combo; not to soft not too hard, long lasting and sticky enough when it counts.  Thin enough to feel what you’re doing but with structure thanks to the SRX dynamics (sole adjusts with movement, tightening up etc).

The shoe itself fits like a glove, I’ll be honest in saying they’re blumin’ hard to get on, but when they are they feel like a perfectly formed precision sock, and they’re as light as a feather (340grs).

The snug fitting heel was great for hooking. The heel is incredible, it doesn’t budge an inch, and this isn’t because the shoe’s really tight, it just fits amazingly well, and that’s all I want from a good heel, I want to trust it, with the Oasi I don’t even think about it, It’s a bit like going bare foot and knowing your heel isn’t going to slid away because it’s attached.

The toe profile made for precision footwork. The toe is just as good, I’ve used the word ‘precise’ quite a lot in this review already, and I’ll probably use it more, as it’s the perfect word to describe them.  Great edges and a comfortable toe box, my toes have been a little uncomfortable but the shoe is wearing in well and it’s only been 6 weeks, so I’m expecting good things to come.

I’ve been wearing the shoe indoors and out to get a good feel for it, and it seems an all rounder.  I feel super confident indoors on small foot holds and I’m loving them on the steep stuff outside. They’re only slightly down turned so are a bit more flexible on different angles.

Come on you say, there must be a down side to these shoes, maybe the price?  Hmmm not really, at around £100.00 the Tenaya Oasi is as competitive as any other climbing shoe, and if someone can onsight 9a (not me) in a shoe that doesn’t costs the world and lasts longer than 4 sessions, then that should sell it for most.

Conclusion, if you haven’t already guessed, is they’re mint, well done Tenaya, a great shoe, please don’t change it!

Right 9a here I come….or maybe I should try 7c first.

SRP: £100.00

Stockists.



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Haglöfs Vojd 18 ABS Ski Pack – Ski Gear Review
8 March 2014, 12:44 pm



This winter I’ve been lucky enough to be able to test the Vojd 18 ABS Ski Pack from Haglöfs. I’ve been even luckier as I’ve not had to deploy the airbag! Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for money ****

Testing the Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack in La Grave. Air Bag rucksack technology is designed to aid skiers and snowboarders in the event of being caught in an avalanche. They feature a gas cartridge which when triggered, deploys each airbag which expands out of each side of the pack, the idea being it makes you bigger thus increasing your chances of staying on the surface of the avalanche. There are those who are for and those who are against these sorts of backpack, but I feel that coupled with knowledge and good judgement, I would rather ski with one than without. It is definitely not a substitute for adequate knowledge and good judgement though, and should never be seen as such. There are also some interesting statistics courtesy of the Utah Avalanche Center that are worth reading when making your own choice.

Anybody skiing outside of a patrolled area needs to make sure they have the knowledge, skills, judgement and equipment to keep themselves safe. An ABS ski pack is not an alternative to skills and experience, but just like a transceiver, shovel and probe, it could help save your life. Here the author tests his Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack in the off piste heaven of La Grave, France. I’ve used the Vojd 18 Pack for lift served off piste around Chamonix and La Grave, I’ve used it on glaciated terrain and I’ve also taken it on day long ski tours.

Using the Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack on a day tour in the Aiguilles Rouges, France. So, what about the Vojd 18 (pronounced Void apparently)? What is it like? Well first of all, in the past these types of rucksack have generally been pretty heavy. To begin with, ABS’s in-house packs were basically solely designed to house the airbags (the rucksack features being a bit of a second thought) and it is only recently, with partnerships forming with other dedicated outdoor brands, that more thought has gone into the actual pack design itself. And this is definitely noticeable with the Vojd 18.

Outside the Requin Hut after skiing the classic Grand Envers route from the Aiguille du Midi, France. Note ice axe neatly attached on the outside. The Vojd 18 ABS Pack features 2 internal airbags which deploy out of the side of the pack when you pull the release handle. This can be seen more clearly in the video below:

Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – side airbags, fully deployed. Looking at what is available out there, and comparing capacity/weight, the Haglöfs claim that their Vojd 18 ABS Pack, is one of the lightest on the market, certainly appears to be correct. I don’t have a whole list of comparative statistics but at 2.42kg (this is without the gas canister) the 18 litre pack does not feel particularly heavy on my back and the low profile design means it gives a comfortable carry whilst skiing and doesn’t interfere with getting on and off chair lifts too much either.

I don’t like skiing with a big heavy pack on. The Vojd 18 suited me perfectly. It is small enough to take care of your shovel, probe, spare gloves and other bits and bobs for a day of lift served, off piste skiing. But is also big enough to carry the extras required for day tours, skiing on glaciers etc, although admittedly you do need to pack it carefully if you are taking skins, crampons, rope, spare clothes, rescue kit and all the other back country essentials. The position of the canister does cause some dead space beneath it and you need to be clever to fill these spaces when packing, if you are to effectively utilise the full 18 litre volume.

The Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack, showing the shovel and probe being carried. The internal shovel pocket worked well but I did feel that the zipper closing on the main compartment interfered a little with storage of my shovel handle and probe. The tips of which, pressed against the inside of the zipper. Like I say, this isn’t the biggest pack in the world but with careful packing you can reap the rewards of a versatile and low profile ABS ski pack that is comfortable to carry and relatively light. Interestingly, if you do require a bit of extra space, Haglöfs make a 30 litre version too and this actually weighs in not much heavier, at just over 2.6kg without a canister.

Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – internal detail. Other features I like on the Vojd 18 ABS Pack are the ice axe holder which is very simple and secure and also keeps the blade neatly stored away. The front zipped pocket with key clip is great for storing bits and bobs like keys, sunblock and change but I did often wish it was ever so slightly bigger. It’s all a balance though.

The waist belt felt sturdy and comfortable and the zippered pockets were large enough to keep snacks and a lens cloth in. The metal buckles worked easily, were reassuring, secure and didn’t freeze up. The crotch strap was easy to secure and adjust and this meant that there was a lot less danger of the pack being pulled up and over your head if the bags were deployed!

The shoulder straps felt comfortable and low profile, adjusted easily and the chest strap was secure and adjustable both up/down and side to side.

Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – carrying skis on the short bootpack at the end of the Vallee Blanche. Carrying skis worked well, with a top and bottom strap facilitating a vertical carry system. I used this system numerous times and it was easy to set up and secure. The fabric also stood up well, to abrasions from ski edges and other sharp objects. Additional straps also come with the Vojd if you wish to use it to carry a snowboard.

Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack ski carry system. Finally, and perhaps the most important thing, is the deployment handle for the airbags. This is positioned on the left shoulder strap and is easy to access. You can also adjust the height that the handle sits at. The handle then sits under a velcro strap which is designed to stop you pulling it accidentally. I did see a lot of people skiing around with their strap over their handle, and couldn’t help thinking that they might struggle to then deploy the bag in an emergency situation! I generally would keep the handle secured on the lifts but would remove the strap before I started skiing downhill!

Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – release handle on the left shoulder strap (secured whilst on the ski lift). So to conclude, the Haglöfs Vojd 18 ABS Ski Pack is a well made pack that is low profile and comfortable to carry whilst skiing. With careful packing it is big enough for most day long off piste adventures/tours but Haglöfs do a 30 litre version for those who take more kit or just like more space. The Vojd 18 is relatively light for an ABS pack and has the right balance of space, size and features. The main compartment zip is a little small. Overall, a great pack that I will continue to use on all my day long off piste ski adventures.

• RRP: £750
• Stockists: Craigdon Mountain Sports
• Visit the Haglöfs website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Arc’teryx Nuclei Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
10 March 2014, 6:07 pm



CGR tests the über light belay jacket from Arc’teryx…

Lightweight, compact, trim-fitting belay jacket with a high warmth-to-weight ratio.

Performance ****

Style****

Value for Money****

We’ve reviewed several insulated shells from Arc’teryx; we’ve reviewed the Atom LT jacket for UKC and the Atom SV Hoody for CGR and we’ve found them both excellent, so does the new Arc’teryx Nuclei lightweight belay jacket live up to expectations?

Firstly the word Nuclei: small, compact and lightweight and it certainly fits the bill. If space in your pack or weight off your back is an issue the Nuclei will fit your spec perfectly as it’s certainly light. It feels really light, in fact one of the lightest insulated jackets I’ve ever used. The stated weight was 285g and on the new super duper digital CGR scales the Nuclei weighed in at 297g with the stuffsack and 290g without. So pretty accurate and in any case it certainly felt very light both in pack and on.

The Arc’teryx Nuclei was super light and compact. The shell material is made from an Arc’teryx proprietary material called Airetica, this a tightly woven and incredibly light Pertex-like shell material which is only 34g/m² . It felt very soft and the DWR did repel a light shower and snow. It did, however begin to ’wet out’ after 5 minutes of steady rain when the jacket became damp with the combination of sweat and condensation (it’s important to point out that even a hardshell will do this).  It dries out very quick (which is what you are after as no jacket is fully 100% waterproof) and the DWR was brought back into condition with a quick, half hour tumble dry on a medium setting. So very easy to maintain, and as stated before in our belay jacket article: synthetic insulation is much easier to wash than down. The Airetica was perfectly windproof and at no time did I feel cold on mild windy days.

The insulation was provided by the established Coreloft which we looked at in detail in the Atom SV Hoody review. The jacket provides 80g/m² in the torso area and 60g/m² in the arms and hood, this provides a good amount of insulation whilst maintaining flexibility for climbing and hiking. The jacket provided enough warmth for rock climbing belays and bouldering days and also provided warmth for winter climbing in, as a mid layer. So a good combination of insulation weights giving mobility and warmth. The fact that the jacket doesn’t have sewn through baffles adds to the warmth and increases wind proof ability.

The Airetica material was tough enough for a little bit of abuse. The cut was great for climbing and hiking in. It is definitely athletic in fit so do not expect it to be a standard type of belay jacket that you throw over all you winter kit for belaying. In fact I would not recommend it for that activity at all, the Atom SV hoody is a much better option or if it’s even colder then the Dually Belay Parka is even better as it’s a full on belay parka. For more information on the different types of belay jacket read our Buyer’s Guide. So I would say that the Arc’teryx Nuclei is a great belay jacket for rock climbing and brilliant for hiking but as a winter climbing jacket it’s much better suited as a climbing layer. For climbing in, the cut was as excellent as you would expect from the Arc’teryx designers. Well cut with little rise when you are extended on those reachy moves. It fitted well under a harness but I would have liked the pockets to have been a little higher on the torso as the pockets were not fully accessible. However you do have to remember the jacket is not exclusively for climbing in and has a more versatile application.

The Arc’teryx Nuclei was great to rock climb in on those cold windy days. The YKK zips all worked great and were no trouble at all, as usual I would have liked to have seen more glove friendly tabs but they worked OK with thin gloves on. With features cut to the bone there were only two pockets and the lack of an inside or chest pocket was a real drawback for this jacket (although it does make the jacket lighter). There was a tiny internal pocket but this was only big enough for the stow bag to go in and little use for anything else. This, I felt was a serious drawback on what is a brilliant jacket as a third pocket is so useful in climbing situations – food bars, gloves, camera, walkie talkie are all items that I can carry and want access to when climbing. Of course I can, and do, just stuff them inside the jacket, but sometimes I want a little more security than that. And do remember that the side pockets have restricted access when wearing a harness.

The hood was great to have on and worked very well with a peaked hat in hiking/approach situations. It fitted under a helmet very well but was very tight over a helmet, you couldn’t really climb very well when it was used like this. But in the situations I used it as a climbing layer with the hood under the helmet it worked very well. The hood worked very well with a peaked cap and kept any shower off my face.

The hood fitted well under a helmet and was OK over it too. The gusseted sleeves and articulated elbows worked well with little rise when climbing and the cuffs were fine for pulling over powerstretch gloves or ice climbing gloves with a wrist closure. The waist hem had a single cord adjuster on the right hand side, it worked well enough in the field but was a little fiddly with gloves on, no big deal though. The small internal pocket held a tiny stuffsack into which the jacket fitted to make it extremely compact for travel. I haven’t used it climbing as I’ve often been wearing it. The small attachment point could have been bigger, again this all about being glove friendly for belaying in on the stance.

The Arc’teryx Nuclei is a great 3 season belay jacket that comes in men’s and women’s versions. It would be suitable for rock climbing, hiking, alpine climbing and great as an all day piece for ice climbing and gnarly alpine routes. The quality is five stars, as you would expect from Arc’teryx and it will be great for all of your climbing adventures except for  the coldest conditions. Oh, and have I mentioned it’s light…very light…very, very light. There will be many other brands looking at this jacket to see how they can lighten up their own range.

SRP £190

Stockists.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
11 March 2014, 8:34 am

Earlier this year Kasia gave her first impressions on the Women’s Alloy Jacket and Pants from The North Face. She’s since had more time to test the products thoroughly and you can now read her full thoughts on the jacket below… The North Face Women’s Alloy jacket is designed for ski touring and ski mountaineering. I put it through its paces during a ski holiday in Chamonix which had a good balance of glorious blue sky mountain days as well as a couple of full on snow days.

Kasia using The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket whilst ski touring in the Aiguille Rouges, Chamonix. As mentioned in my first impressions review of the jacket and matching trousers I love the material and design because it’s soft, comfortable and practical all in one. The jacket only comes in the one colour ‘Antique Moss Green’ – though I’d say it’s more yellow than green!

The jacket itself is constructed from panels of different materials, with the intention of it being waterproof and hardwearing on the hood and shoulders/top of arms and then more breathable in the back and underarm sections. Certain areas also feel a bit more padded due to it having parts that are lined – hood, shoulders, top of arms and lower back. This adds to that soft and cosy feeling.  Panels of mesh lining can be found down the centre of the back to increase airflow and at the front of the jacket which makes up the lining of the large pockets – this design feature helps to circulate air when the pockets are left unzipped.

The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket – warm enough for short stops without adding extra layers. In The North Face techno speak “gender specific body mapped design delivers waterproofness and high breathability where needed. TNF Apex Universal soft shell body is highly breathable to meet aerobic back country demands. Durable, waterproof HyVent fabric on the hood and shoulders protect from the elements.”

So with this mix of materials in all the right places how did it perform on the mountain?

Whilst in Chamonix we skied on and off piste and spent some time ski touring. On the snowy days, even when the snow felt quite wet the jacket seemed to perform well and kept me dry and comfortable. As long as I kept moving I felt warm enough on the cold days with just a base layer under the jacket. When things got cooler, for example when we stopped for a break or slowed things down a notch or two, I was certainly glad that I’d packed a primaloft insulation layer. On warmer, sunny days on our Chamonix trip I found the jacket was too hot for me, and with a rucksack covering the ‘aerobic back’ not as breathable as I would have liked it to be. So when ski touring on a blue sky day I had to have the jacket tied around my waist. Whether without a backback the jacket would have worked better I’m not sure as there aren’t many scenarios when I’m out on the hill without a pack of some sort. So I would recommend the jacket for colder, active days.

To keep out the wind there are some drawer cords for the bottom of the jacket in each pocket and these are easy enough to adjust. There is no snow skirt but I didn’t find this to be an issue. As mentioned in my previous ‘mini’ review the pockets are certainly fit for purpose and are harness friendly. The hood is also adjustable so whilst it fits over my helmet it can also be nice and snug over a beanie.

The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket – perfect for a descent of the Vallee Blanche on a cold, crisp, blue sky day! Overview

I love the feel, cut and simple, functional features of the jacket. Whilst I haven’t yet tried the jacket for ice climbing I’m happy with the fit and cut and feel confident that it would be a nice jacket to climb in as well. It was certainly comfortable enough to ski in. Depending on your own ‘heating’ system you can easily layer up accordingly with this jacket and by having a medium sized jacket I could wear a primaloft layer underneath. I quite often wore The North Face Thermoball vest either under for those colder days or over as a quick warm up fix in order to help keep my core warm. So keep your layering options in mind when choosing the right size for you, you’ll know yourself whether you’re a warm or cold person. Whilst the jacket kept me dry on the damp snow Chamonix days I wouldn’t recommend this jacket for a rainy Scottish winter’s day it’s not made for that purpose and will eventually wet through. From a packability point of view it’s not a light and compact option but this didn’t bother me in my chosen uses of the jacket.

• RRP: £280
• Find out more at The North Face website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Black Diamond/Pieps JetForce Avalanche Airbag Technology – Ski Gear News
11 March 2014, 10:02 am



A REVOLUTION IN AIRBAG TECHNOLOGY

JetForce is the first Avalanche Airbag Technology to use jet-fan inflation, a breakthrough system that draws air from an unlimited source: the atmosphere. Watch this video about the JetForce from Powder Magazine:

 

Testable, re-deployable and travel-friendly, Jet-Force is the result of a multiyear collaboration between Black Diamond and PIEPS, two leaders in avalanche safety innovation. Combining Black Diamond’s expertise in industrial engineering and backcountry travel, JetForce features countless improvements over existing airbag technologies, from an intuitive deployment trigger to a proprietary tear-resistant and easily re-packable airbag fabric. To design Jet-Force’s custom electronics, Black Diamond turned to PIEPS, leaders in digital avalanche transceivers.

PIEPS applied their digital expertise to the engineering of JetForce’s electrical systems, from the ‘good-

to-go’ self-diagnosis on startup to the system-status LED monitors mounted in the trigger.

• JET-FAN Battery-powered jet-fan inflates a 200L airbag in 3.5 seconds, followed by tear recovery bursts
• MULTIPLE DEPLOYMENTS Travel-friendly, compact lithium-ion battery supports 4+ deployments per charge
• AUTO SELF-DIAGNOSIS LED lights indicate system status. PIEPS electronics perform ‘good-to-go’ system check on every startup
• LARGER AIRBAGS Constructed with high-tenacity, puncture resistant automotive airbag material
• DEFLATION Airbag automatically deflates after 3 minutes to create a potential air pocket, and aid in extraction
• PRACTICE Airbag is easy to repack for multiple deployments or practice at home
• AIRBAG VOLUMES: 200L
• INFLATION TIME (200L): 3.5 seconds
• DEPLOYMENTS PER CHARGE: 4+
• AIR-TRAVEL FRIENDLY: Yes

Launching in Fall 2014, JetForce will be available in three packs from Black Diamond (Pilot 11L, Halo 28L and Saga 40L cargo volume), two packs from PIEPS (Tour Rider 24L and Tour Pro 34L cargo volume) and one pack from POC (Thorax 11L).



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Osprey Momentum 22 Rucksack – Commuter Gear Review
12 March 2014, 2:02 pm

Here at CGR it’s not all play, play, play! This winter we’ve been testing out a great commuter pack from Osprey, the Momentum 22… Performance *****

Features*****

Value for money ****

Osprey say: “The Momentum 22 was born to commute. It’s what we consider to be the perfect balance between performance and organisation, making it the ideal journey to work partner. The spacermesh harness and AirScape™ back system provide a carrying platform that is stable and well ventilated, perfect for hot summer rides. A separate laptop and tablet compartment keeps your electronics quick to hand and easy to access. Our unique Lidlock™ attachment provides the perfect place to quickly stow your bike helmet. In wet weather and heavy traffic the built in high-visibility rain cover provides protection, with the added safety feature of a bike-light attachment point. The simple but effective 20mm removable waist strap will keep your pack close and tight. The Momentum 22 also conforms to all EU carry-on size restrictions, providing you with a great travel pack when swapping pedal power for wing power.“

 

A departure from the usual CGR review, the Osprey Momentum 22 is aimed at those of us who want a more functional way to carry and protect all our necessary docs and equipment on our commute to work. Whether going by car, train, bicycle, running or walking, the Momentum 22 has been my go to, work pack this winter.

Osprey Momentum 22 on a cycle commute. Note the helmet holder for when you’ve arrived at your destination. I work as a teacher and I usually take a laptop, some paperwork, stationary and some books to and from work on a daily basis. I also find the Momentum 22 a great pack for using as hand luggage on trips abroad, protecting my laptop, camera, external hard drive, docs and guidebooks.

I much prefer a rucksack over a briefcase or courier style shoulder bag for my commute to work. Granted it isn’t quite as smart but it’s way more versatile. If I cycle or run to work having a bag that carries well is crucial and the Momentum 22 carries brilliantly with comfortable shoulder straps, breathable mesh back and sturdy chest and waist straps.

As you’d expect from Osprey the pack is extremely well made and also incredibly well featured. Internal sleeves protect my tablet and laptop and there is also a separate document sleeve for keeping everything well organised. I like the fact that there is sufficient padding to protect your valuable items too. All the main compartments are accessed via high quality zippers which are easy to use with gloves on and the zippered pocket on the shoulder strap with the extendable key attachment clip is a really nice touch.

Osprey are sticklers for attention to detail on there packs and I really like the neat features such as LED bike light attachment point, internal organisation pockets and reflective graphics. The bright yellow rain cover is also perfect, stowing easily in the base when not needed but being really simple to deploy when it is.

Osprey Momentum 22 – hi-vis removeable rain cover, brilliant for our wettest winter on record! As the nights are starting to get lighter I have been using the pack whilst cycling and have found it to be a very comfortable and stable carry. I really like the simple helmet attachment for when I have transferred from my bike to being on foot. The pack has a hydration port but it also has 2 mesh wand pockets with side compression which are useful for carrying water bottles or stuffing a light rain jacket.

I have carried the Momentum 22 whilst running as well and although I don’t really like to run with a heavy pack on I found it to be pretty stable and the Airscape mesh back panel to be amply breathable.

 

So, to conclude, the Osprey Momentum 22 is a superb pack for the active desk jockey or anybody wanting a reliable, functional and comfortable method of transporting their belongings to and from work, be it by train, foot, bike or car. Good work Osprey!

 

• RRP: £80
• For more information visit the Osprey Website.

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Salewa Pro Guide – Climbing Gear Review
13 March 2014, 7:34 am



Dave tests out the top notch winter mountain boot from Italian company Salewa

A classic upper design, with an indestructible 3mm Perwanger leather and a GORE-TEX® Insulated performance lining combined with the most innovative technologies, such as the only adjustable sole system and the anatomical last with climbing toe profile.

Performance *****

Style****

Value****

Mountain boots are a very subjective item to buy, they can certainly make or break a winter climb and there have been many occasions when I’ve been virtually crippled, hobbling back to the car in foot agony.

When we were offered a pair of the Salewa Pro Guide boots for test I was a little uncertain as they require some in depth wear and can take some time to test properly. But I’m pleased to say I haven’t been disappointed as the boots have performed exceptionally well straight out the box.

Firstly, the boots are burly. They are built to last years, these aren’t some lightweight, disco dancing boots that are going to last a season or two. They will last for ages, made from 3mm Perwanger leather – a great leather, locally sourced and steeped in Alpine tradition since 1780! A nice touch in these globally sourced manufacturing days. At just over a kilo per boot they are, however, a little on the  heavy side. Especially if you are used to the ‘disco dancing’  lightweight boot. For a full leather boot though they feel light and I never noticed them to be overly heavy on any day I have worn them. I felt the extra few grams were well worth the extra protection the Salewa Pro Guides offered over lighter boots I’ve worn in the past.

They come in two fits so it is important to try on both before you buy: a medium/performance fit for technical ice and mixed climbing and the wide/insulated fit for comfort and warmth. The difference is 4mm and I tested the wide fit. I don’t have particularly wide feet and found the wide fit very comfortable and didn’t notice any movement inside the boot when I was climbing in them.

The Salewa Pro Guide were great for technical winter climbing. The boot was further reinforced with plastic 3F inserts which we mentioned in our Firetail GTX review last year. This provided some extra tightening around the ankle area as well as protection against knocks. The 3D EVO tightening system had some features that are worth mentioning: all the eyelets were made from stainless steel and riveted to the boots. There were two eyelets with pulleys to help get the correct fit and a locking eyelet that had a tiny locking cam to keep the toe area. There were further locking points at the ankle and the top of the book. This gave some flexibility with the fit but I had to be careful and I soon learned that I needed two different fits for walking and climbing (this is standard stuff for most boots though).

The Guide Pro had a flexible lacing system and fitted crampons well. I had a tough, early season day on Ben Nevis and found the boots really painful on the descent, once I had stopped and readjusted the tightening system the boots were fine. The problem was that the locking cam was full of snow and ice and was difficult to release with gloves on. I found the following systems worked best for me:

Approach – loose fitting with laces tightened around the ankle area. I could walk all day in the boots with this system, it was very comfortable. I was careful not to over tighten the toe area to keep my feet nice and warm.

Climbing – tighten up the toe area (but not too tight as to cut the circulation) and cinch tight around the ankle and shin area. I use the Andy Kirkpatrick reef know method of lacing. Although the to clamp style eyelets worked well at keeping the laces in place when I was tying knots and bows.

Descent – as for climbing for technical descents and loosen off for gully descents.

Walk out – as for approach.

So a flexible system works best.

The boots were comfortable enough for long approaches. The boots are insulated with Duratherm and were warm, there wasn’t one day this season when my feet felt cold, even on long belay sessions. The footbed insert was also insulated and easy to remove for drying out and replacement.

So how were the boots for climbing in? In short – great, I couldn’t fault them. The Salewa Pro Guide boots have yet another feature the Flex system: a system that stiffens to the boot for steep icefall or mixed climbing. The problem here is that it needs to be adjusted using an allen key, something else you’ve got to carry and remember to use. I’ve been using the boots all season and to be honest haven’t felt the need to use it for any route I’ve done in the UK. The boots have worked perfectly well up to technical mixed grade 6 and I felt that they would perform perfectly well on all mixed climbing. On the occasion I did use it the system felt fine for climbing in but I forgot to re-adjust on the descent and that made the boots more uncomfortable for walking in as I did really notice the difference after a while. There is a nice video here from Salewa showing how the system works:



I can see some benefits to this flexible system and I think the system I will adopt is to leave them in walk mode for UK winter climbing and change them to climb mode when I take an ice climbing trip or when I’m going to do a long ice route. It’s a new and novel concept that I can see real benefits to, Salewa designers and climbers have come up with a system that tries solves a real problem for climbers, but I just can’t help thinking that it’s an added complication on what can be a long and tiring day. For ice climbing with short walk-ins though sitting down for a few seconds and adjusting the boots will make a difference to the performance.

The toe box was very tough, this is an area that has let me down in the past and I like mine tough. I could happily kick steps and kick front points into ice for long periods without my big toe throbbing in agony. There is a full rand around the boot and the GoreTex lining helped keep the water and snow out.

The deep lugs helped when descending steep snow. The sole unit was asymmetrical in design and made using a Vibram unit. The unit is fully resoleable should you need to have one fitted. The front and heel bale lips worked well and were made from tough polyeurothane plastic, I did like the way the front lip didn’t protrude at all and kept the front clean for rock climbing moves. What I really liked though were the lugs, these were very deep and offered great security when on steep snow, the fibreglass insole also helped when side stepping across a slope, this a great feature that helps differentiate the boots.

So, in conclusion the Salewa Guide Pro boots have been great to wear: comfortable straight out the box, good to climb in, They are really warm, the tightening system offers flexibility and they should last for years (if you look after them). On the down side they can feel little heavy and you have to remember to leave the house with the allen key if you are going to use the Flex System. A nice boot though and Salewa have done a great job of trying to overcome a common problem for winter climbers. I suspect we’ll see more of them in the mountains in future.

The boots also come in a gaiter version- the Salewa Pro Gaiter and the sizing is UK 6 to 12 in half sizes. Don’t forget that they come in two fits; performance and wide so do try them on in a specialist shop – I have seen them in the shops so you should be able to have them fitted professionally.

SRP £360.00

Stockists

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following our blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page link in the sidebar. We never keep an email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on to someone else (no, no, no that would be very unethical).

 

 

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

Edelrid Orion Harness
24 March 2014, 7:00 pm



Edelrid Orion  Performance ? ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ?

Value ? ? ? ?

Though the Edelrid Orion Harness is billed as an ‘all-rounder’ suited to sport or mountain use its design is slanted more toward the trad and winter climber and those with fond memories of the original Tron movie. Ample racking by way of four asymmetric gear loops and two low profile cunningly concealed ice clipper slots (which it appears they have had to label so you can find them!) should cope with most racks. What sets this harness apart is its ’3D Vent’ technology which shapes the very wide foam padding ergonomically whilst using thin webbing strips to support the foam and allow ventilation. The waist-belt is a similar width to my other harnesses but definitely more ‘shaped’ whereas the leg-loops are significantly wider.

 

Stealth Ice Clipper Slots  

 

I found the racking more than adequate for any winter/mixed route but as always the size of your rack may determine this! The asymmetric (sloping) gear loops project outwards slightly and were easy to clip even with the usual bulk of winter kit on. Stealthily placed ice clipper slots worked well but you are limited to just the one location (between the two gear loops on each side) so be aware of this with regard to screw racking preferences. The rear of the harness includes a simple hook to drop the leg loops and a loop that would take a tag line but it’s not of ‘belay’ strength.

Reinforced tie-in point In Use After fewer than I’d hoped for winter routes thanks to the miserable early season conditions the Orion has completed its test period and I’m suitably impressed, it has proved to be a comfortable and thoughtfully designed winter harness. From the first wearing it had that ‘forget you’re wearing it’ feeling that allowed you to focus on the task in hand rather than tinkering with the harness trying to finesse the fit. Both waist belt and leg loops allowed rapid first time adjustment out of the sac and didn’t need any attention till the harness was removed. The Orion remained eminently comfortable during the usual Scottish winter conditions, including the usual awkward semi-hanging belays and the hasty trudging backdown No. 4 gully to try and beat the darkness. It even had a surprise fall test on it’s first outing on Gargoyle Wall, not planned or something I’d care to repeat onto a 1 Friend in a thankfully thawing icy crack! Additionally a few drops training on the Harrogate wall confirmed the Orion’s comfort. Of course they were planned – I wouldn’t get pumped and fall off a 6b+, honest. Every time the harness felt great, no pinching or rubbing etc. The very breathable construction together with its low absorbency made the Orion comfortable both when sweating down the wall and when the moisture was coming from a miserable grey Scottish sky, in the latter case drying off almost immediately in the drying room.

Racking up below The Curtain  

In terms of durability there is little evidence of wear, and the construction appears of the highest quality, tie-in points in particular are ‘beefy’ the leg loop section having a solid plastic protector which I’ve not seen before that makes threading ropes particularly easy and completely protects the webbing from wear. This beefiness and durability does incur a slight weight penalty with the Edelerid Orion tipping the scales at approximately 430 grams (M). The only negative point I’ve come across is the springy-ness of the Orion’s construction, this structure definitely aids comfort but it can make it a battle cramming it into the smaller sac!

Addendum, going back to my standard harnesses has really emphasised how supremely the Edelrid Orion Harness really is when you have to hang when abseiling or belaying – suffice to say I’ve been somewhat spoilt now! However if you want something a little more compact check out the other harnesses in the CGR Buyer’s Guide

Pros: high performance, comfortable and durable.

Cons: a little bulky in the springy sense.

RRP £85 (Edelrid Dealers)

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

Edelrid Orion Harness – Climbing Gear Review
24 March 2014, 7:00 pm



Edelrid Orion  Performance ? ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ?

Value ? ? ? ?

Though the Edelrid Orion Harness is billed as an ‘all-rounder’ suited to sport or mountain use its design is slanted more toward the trad and winter climber and those with fond memories of the original Tron movie. Ample racking by way of four asymmetric gear loops and two low profile cunningly concealed ice clipper slots (which it appears they have had to label so you can find them!) should cope with most racks. What sets this harness apart is its ’3D Vent’ technology which shapes the very wide foam padding ergonomically whilst using thin webbing strips to support the foam and allow ventilation. The waist-belt is a similar width to my other harnesses but definitely more ‘shaped’ whereas the leg-loops are significantly wider.

 

Stealth Ice Clipper Slots  

 

I found the racking more than adequate for any winter/mixed route but as always the size of your rack may determine this! The asymmetric (sloping) gear loops project outwards slightly and were easy to clip even with the usual bulk of winter kit on. Stealthily placed ice clipper slots worked well but you are limited to just the one location (between the two gear loops on each side) so be aware of this with regard to screw racking preferences. The rear of the harness includes a simple hook to drop the leg loops and a loop that would take a tag line but it’s not of ‘belay’ strength.

Reinforced tie-in point In Use After fewer than I’d hoped for winter routes thanks to the miserable early season conditions the Orion has completed its test period and I’m suitably impressed, it has proved to be a comfortable and thoughtfully designed winter harness. From the first wearing it had that ‘forget you’re wearing it’ feeling that allowed you to focus on the task in hand rather than tinkering with the harness trying to finesse the fit. Both waist belt and leg loops allowed rapid first time adjustment out of the sac and didn’t need any attention till the harness was removed. The Orion remained eminently comfortable during the usual Scottish winter conditions, including the usual awkward semi-hanging belays and the hasty trudging backdown No. 4 gully to try and beat the darkness. It even had a surprise fall test on it’s first outing on Gargoyle Wall, not planned or something I’d care to repeat onto a 1 Friend in a thankfully thawing icy crack! Additionally a few drops training on the Harrogate wall confirmed the Orion’s comfort. Of course they were planned – I wouldn’t get pumped and fall off a 6b+, honest. Every time the harness felt great, no pinching or rubbing etc. The very breathable construction together with its low absorbency made the Orion comfortable both when sweating down the wall and when the moisture was coming from a miserable grey Scottish sky, in the latter case drying off almost immediately in the drying room.

Racking up below The Curtain  

In terms of durability there is little evidence of wear, and the construction appears of the highest quality, tie-in points in particular are ‘beefy’ the leg loop section having a solid plastic protector which I’ve not seen before that makes threading ropes particularly easy and completely protects the webbing from wear. This beefiness and durability does incur a slight weight penalty with the Edelerid Orion tipping the scales at approximately 430 grams (M). The only negative point I’ve come across is the springy-ness of the Orion’s construction, this structure definitely aids comfort but it can make it a battle cramming it into the smaller sac!

Addendum, going back to my standard harnesses has really emphasised how supremely the Edelrid Orion Harness really is when you have to hang when abseiling or belaying – suffice to say I’ve been somewhat spoilt now! However if you want something a little more compact check out the other harnesses in the CGR Buyer’s Guide

Pros: high performance, comfortable and durable.

Cons: a little bulky in the springy sense.

RRP £85 (Edelrid Dealers)

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

The North Face Catalyst Micro Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
27 March 2014, 6:14 pm



CGR tests out the new water resistant down jacket from The North Face- can Dave put a dampener on it?

The North Face Men’s Catalyst Micro Jacket delivers packable, warm and resilient performance for ski touring with a water resistant down fill.

Performance ****

Style*****

Value***

I knew it was coming when our new website guru Richie had bought a water resistant down jacket at a price than made me feint (I am from Yorkshire after all). It was just a matter of time and with 2012/ 13 all about body mapping so 2014 is all about water resistant down.

The North face got quickly on the scene with an affordable water resistant (note that term) down jacket with the Catalyst Micro jacket. This is a typical down micro down jacket in style but is filled with 800 Fill ProDown; a water resistant (or, more technically a hydrophobic) down.

So how does the TNf Prodown work – well in the showroom it works really well as I was shown at TNF HQ with a fully lofted down particle immersed in water shown to me.

Hydrophobic down works by coating the down fibres in chemicals that help the down fibres repel water whilst retaining its loft. In short what the designer is after is the warmth and compressibility of down coupled with the warm when damp properties of synthetic fill. Of course we still have all those nasty chemicals to deal with and The North Face have been working hard to produce garments within Blue Sign guidelines. In order to reduce their environmental footprint with the down coating they have been working with their supplier to reduce the chemical process and change the chemical compounds.

Less of that though and more of the jacket’s performance – I found the fit of this jacket great. Athletic, but not too tight that I couldn’t wear a thick fleece or hoody under it but it fitted well enough for general mountain activities such as hiking, scrambling and winter mountaineering. I should point out that I often wore a hoody under it for casual or coaching activities, but it would interfere with the fit for active sport.

The TNF Catalyst had a good cut for climbing in. A cold and windy Robin Proctor Scar. The sample size was medium and I’m often a 40” chest, the size was just right for that with a little extra room, the fit was slim at the waist and the cut was great at the arms with very little rise. The Flash Dry (similar to Power Dry) armpit inserts helped here and aided with heat and moisture evaporation when the going got active. They also made the jacket comfortable by reducing chaffing under the arms.

The TNF Catalyst was very comfortable for active sports. The North Face Catalyst Micro Jacket has three pockets, two handwarmer and one left hand chest pocket. The right hand pocket is the signature stow pocket. They worked well all the time and were plenty big enough for hats, gloves and some food. The jacket compressed well into the pocket and would compress a little more if space was tight. The chest pocket was large enough for phones, wallets, ipods, etc. The handwarmer pockets were low down on the jacket which made them inaccessible with a harness on, but to be honest it’s not a specialist climbing jacket and the chest pocket was big enough for most items (topo’s, food, camera, etc).

The zip tags could have been a little more glove friendly. The main zipper was a YKK Vislon and worked really well in all conditions. The cuffs were well designed, fitted tightly around my wrist and were easy to tuck a pair of glove cuffs underneath.

The baffles were well filled and lofted nicely when heated (by your body), 14 horizontal baffles provided plenty of down to cover my torso. The down is 800 Fill Hungarian Goose, so premium quality and jacket did feel lovely and warm in all but the most cold conditions. The hydrophobic treatment did help with showery or slightly damp conditions as it dried out very quickly, the outer was lightweight ripstop and I should point out that is not shower proof as I discovered on several occasions. The North Face Catalyst Jacket did, however, dry out as quickly as a synthetic fill. The micro style jacket is now firmly established to such an extent that you rarely see a large baffled down jacket at the crag or the wall.

The TNF Catalyst jacket was warm enough on those cold, spring days. Early season Malham Cove. The hood did just go over a climbing helmet, but did restrict head movements. It worked better under my helmet. It was great in normal conditions , easy to pop on with no adjustment necessary as it was elasticated, so no fuss deployment when needed.

So, The North Face have come up with a great jacket that will suit all manner of mountain activities as well as look great casually. The ProDown hydrophobic treatment, doesn’t shed off moisture so don’t expect a waterproof jacket, but it does help it to perform as good as a synthetic shell. It has served me well as a belay jacket for cragging and bouldering, as a throw on insulator when hiking in damp conditions and I’ve worn it for climbing wall sessions and coaching. It will serve you well in most UK conditions but not UK winter gnarl! At £200 it is priced well enough and the hydrophobic nature of the Summit Series jacket makes it worth that little bit extra.

SRP: £200

Stockists.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

Jöttnar Bergelmir
4 April 2014, 8:01 am



CGR dons armour and tests the Neoshell jacket from newcomer Jöttnar – the hardshell with a soft side.

Constructed in a grade of Polartec® NeoShell® especially selected and tested by Jöttnar for hand feel and durability, it delivers true breathability, stretch and robustness in a lightweight and fully waterproof package. Streamlined, uncluttered, durable and athletically cut, Bergelmir is a modern day suit of armour.

Performance *****

Style ****

Value****

 

Last season I tested out one of the first jackets to feature the new Neoshell, the Marmot Nabu used Polartec Neoshell as a softshell fabric pretty effectively and I found it a good shell fabric, breathable and waterproof.

 

Since then many brands have been adopting the Polartec Neoshell as a hardshell material and I’m seeing more and more of it around in both jackets and pants.

 

New kid on the block Jöttnar (pronounced Yot-nar) sent us both a jacket and a pair of bibs for test this winter. Based in Swindon Jöttnar have quickly established themselves as a premium brand that specialises in clothing for extreme mountaineering. Jöttnar specialise in small volume garments made with high quality materials and are designed to be used in extreme conditions.

 

Now I’m a sucker for all things Scandinavian, I must own some equipment or clothing from most known Scandinavian brands so with a name like Jöttnar I was immediately hooked, with a jacket named Bergelmir (who in Norse mythology is a ‘frost giant) and a tagline Conquer Giants I was positively frothing.

The Jöttnar Bergelmir was a brilliant winter shell.  

The Jöttnar Bergelmir oozes quality, that the first thing to say. It is extremely well made which is not surprising looking at a price tag of £450. The attention to detail is amazing, the stitch count is high . The laser cutting is precise and all the fittings are well thought out and high quality. The Neoshell fabric had a nice soft feel to it, more like a softshell than the usual hardshell fabric and the whole jacket felt ‘soft’ to the touch. The Bergelmir was not a lightweight ‘leave in the pack until needed’ type of hardshell – it’s designed for extreme conditions and to be worn all day. Saying that it’s not overly heavy weighing in at 510g and packed down reasonably well.

 

The sample size sent was a size Medium, I’m a 38-40” chest and the jacket fitted over everything I wore for a winter day out – baselayer, fleece and insulated vest. Some days I wore an insulated jacket instead of the fleece. It went over everything well yet didn’t seem to be bulky and I could climb all day once I had it on. I never once felt the jacket impeded my climbing even though it would fit over everything.

It was a great cut for climbing.  

The cut is great for winter climbing mountaineering and a lot of thought has gone into how the jacket will work with a harness on. The pockets are situated high on the torso and work with opposing hands. The large right hand pocket was big enough for an OS map and accessed with the left hand. The left hand pocket as smaller and accessed with the right hand. There was also an inside pocket which was beautifully patterned with the Jöttnar logo and big enough for valuables, a phone or a small camera. The pocket zips were YKK Aquacoil and worked well even in heavy rain. There was a zip garage to keep the zip tidy when climbing or when it was really windy, it was finished off with a nice rubber zip tag which was shaped in the Jöttnar logo.

 

The main zip was YKK Vislon. This worked really well, every time even with bulky gloves on. It was easy to locate and worked very smoothly. It was finished off with a large zip pull which again worked well. There was a comfortable chin guard that was finished with laminated microfleece and the beard guard was stiffened. The zip didn’t seem to leak even when I wore it in driving snow and hail as the storm flap worked effectively due to the slight stiffening.

 

All the drawcords were made from 3mm shockcord and the toggles worked well first time, every time. The hood drawcord was just a single cord and was very easy to use – I did find, however, that I had to be very careful to make sure the ends were very well tucked inside the jacket because they hurt like crazy when flapping about in the wind. This happened often as it’s not something you think instinctively when the wind begins to blow hard.

The hood kept out everything winter threw at it. The all important hood was excellent, big enough to go over any helmet but adjustable enough to cinch down without one. The rear adjuster was easy to get hold of and adjust both ways, something that has let down very expensive hardshells in past reviews. So easy to find with nice big toggle that worked with gloves on – perfect! There was also a big, chunky feeling wire to the peak that, again, worked well with gloves. A very thin piece of padding made for an effective enough peak.

 

The Jöttnar Bergelmir was very waterproof and although I wear a hardshell for a variety of reasons (not just because it’s raining) it did a good job of keeping the rain out. The beauty of the Polartec Neoshell fabric is the speed at which it dries out and allows your baselayers to dry out – very rapidly. As I’ve stated in previous reviews it’s very difficult to stay completely dry in any clothing as moisture is leaking out of you as well as trying to leak in. But what I am looking for is that dampness to dry out when I’m climbing so I can begin to get warm. I found that once I’d thrown a belay jacket on it didn’t take long for me to dry out. All the seams were fully taped with a variety of tape widths, the tape being thicker where the jacket if more likely to be taking on water.

The Neoshell fabric was good at keeping the weather out.  

So in conclusion the Jöttnar Bergelmir has been a great hardshell jacket. I have no hesitation in awarding it the rare 5 stars for performance. I’ve worn the jacket in some pretty atrocious weather this season and for plenty of winter climbing and mountaineering. It really has done a great job of keeping me warm and dry and I feel I’ve been donning armour to do battle. It feels like a hardshell with a soft side and most of all it’s a great jacket to get out there and conquer giants. I’m pretty sure they’ll become a great, niche brand and hopefully Jöttnar will keep up the Scandinavian theme, even if they are based in Swindon!

SRP: £450 - the Jöttnar Bergelmir comes in  two colours Red and Black and three sizes S,M and L.

Stockists

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following our blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page link in the sidebar. We never keep an email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on to someone else (no, no, no that would be very unethical).



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

Jöttnar Bergelmir – Climbing Gear Review
4 April 2014, 8:01 am



CGR dons armour and tests the Neoshell jacket from newcomer Jöttnar – the hardshell with a soft side.

Constructed in a grade of Polartec® NeoShell® especially selected and tested by Jöttnar for hand feel and durability, it delivers true breathability, stretch and robustness in a lightweight and fully waterproof package. Streamlined, uncluttered, durable and athletically cut, Bergelmir is a modern day suit of armour.

Performance *****

Style ****

Value****

 

Last season I tested out one of the first jackets to feature the new Neoshell, the Marmot Nabu used Polartec Neoshell as a softshell fabric pretty effectively and I found it a good shell fabric, breathable and waterproof.

 

Since then many brands have been adopting the Polartec Neoshell as a hardshell material and I’m seeing more and more of it around in both jackets and pants.

 

New kid on the block Jöttnar (pronounced Yot-nar) sent us both a jacket and a pair of bibs for test this winter. Based in Cardiff Jöttnar have quickly established themselves as a premium brand that specialises in clothing for extreme mountaineering. Jöttnar specialise in small volume garments made with high quality materials and are designed to be used in extreme conditions.

 

Now I’m a sucker for all things Scandinavian, I must own some equipment or clothing from most known Scandinavian brands so with a name like Jöttnar I was immediately hooked, with a jacket named Bergelmir (who in Norse mythology is a ‘frost giant) and a tagline Conquer Giants I was positively frothing.

The Jöttnar Bergelmir was a brilliant winter shell.  

The Jöttnar Bergelmir oozes quality, that the first thing to say. It is extremely well made which is not surprising looking at a price tag of £450. The attention to detail is amazing, the stitch count is high . The laser cutting is precise and all the fittings are well thought out and high quality. The Neoshell fabric had a nice soft feel to it, more like a softshell than the usual hardshell fabric and the whole jacket felt ‘soft’ to the touch. The Bergelmir was not a lightweight ‘leave in the pack until needed’ type of hardshell – it’s designed for extreme conditions and to be worn all day. Saying that it’s not overly heavy weighing in at 510g and packed down reasonably well.

 

The sample size sent was a size Medium, I’m a 38-40” chest and the jacket fitted over everything I wore for a winter day out – baselayer, fleece and insulated vest. Some days I wore an insulated jacket instead of the fleece. It went over everything well yet didn’t seem to be bulky and I could climb all day once I had it on. I never once felt the jacket impeded my climbing even though it would fit over everything.

It was a great cut for climbing.  

The cut is great for winter climbing mountaineering and a lot of thought has gone into how the jacket will work with a harness on. The pockets are situated high on the torso and work with opposing hands. The large right hand pocket was big enough for an OS map and accessed with the left hand. The left hand pocket as smaller and accessed with the right hand. There was also an inside pocket which was beautifully patterned with the Jöttnar logo and big enough for valuables, a phone or a small camera. The pocket zips were YKK Aquacoil and worked well even in heavy rain. There was a zip garage to keep the zip tidy when climbing or when it was really windy, it was finished off with a nice rubber zip tag which was shaped in the Jöttnar logo.

 

The main zip was YKK Vislon. This worked really well, every time even with bulky gloves on. It was easy to locate and worked very smoothly. It was finished off with a large zip pull which again worked well. There was a comfortable chin guard that was finished with laminated microfleece and the beard guard was stiffened. The zip didn’t seem to leak even when I wore it in driving snow and hail as the storm flap worked effectively due to the slight stiffening.

 

All the drawcords were made from 3mm shockcord and the toggles worked well first time, every time. The hood drawcord was just a single cord and was very easy to use – I did find, however, that I had to be very careful to make sure the ends were very well tucked inside the jacket because they hurt like crazy when flapping about in the wind. This happened often as it’s not something you think instinctively when the wind begins to blow hard.

The hood kept out everything winter threw at it. The all important hood was excellent, big enough to go over any helmet but adjustable enough to cinch down without one. The rear adjuster was easy to get hold of and adjust both ways, something that has let down very expensive hardshells in past reviews. So easy to find with nice big toggle that worked with gloves on – perfect! There was also a big, chunky feeling wire to the peak that, again, worked well with gloves. A very thin piece of padding made for an effective enough peak.

 

The Jöttnar Bergelmir was very waterproof and although I wear a hardshell for a variety of reasons (not just because it’s raining) it did a good job of keeping the rain out. The beauty of the Polartec Neoshell fabric is the speed at which it dries out and allows your baselayers to dry out – very rapidly. As I’ve stated in previous reviews it’s very difficult to stay completely dry in any clothing as moisture is leaking out of you as well as trying to leak in. But what I am looking for is that dampness to dry out when I’m climbing so I can begin to get warm. I found that once I’d thrown a belay jacket on it didn’t take long for me to dry out. All the seams were fully taped with a variety of tape widths, the tape being thicker where the jacket if more likely to be taking on water.

The Neoshell fabric was good at keeping the weather out.  

So in conclusion the Jöttnar Bergelmir has been a great hardshell jacket. I have no hesitation in awarding it the rare 5 stars for performance. I’ve worn the jacket in some pretty atrocious weather this season and for plenty of winter climbing and mountaineering. It really has done a great job of keeping me warm and dry and I feel I’ve been donning armour to do battle. It feels like a hardshell with a soft side and most of all it’s a great jacket to get out there and conquer giants. I’m pretty sure they’ll become a great, niche brand and hopefully Jöttnar will keep up the Scandinavian theme, even if they are based in Cardiff!

SRP: £450 - the Jöttnar Bergelmir comes in  two colours Red and Black and three sizes S,M and L.

Stockists

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following our blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page link in the sidebar. We never keep an email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on to someone else (no, no, no that would be very unethical).



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex Boot – Climbing Gear Review
15 April 2014, 8:35 am



Performance ? ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ? so far!

Value ? ? ? ?

CGR test out the new ultralight Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex boot from SCARPA to see if it will transform them into fast moving, Ueli Steck style, winter climbing wads… Weighing in at a claimed 1460g per pair (yes that is under 1.5kg!!) for a pair in UK size 8, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex B3 rated mountain boots from SCARPA, boots that they say are: “ideal for mixed and cascade, fast alpine and alpine rock climbing.”

SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – great for technical climbing.  

I’m forever obsessing over the next piece of lightweight kit to come along, always looking at ways of shaving grams off my clothing system, rack, pack and my footwear. There is a method in this obsession though, as the more your stuff weighs the stronger and fitter you need to be to carry it all and also, the more energy you expend. This is particularly the case with footwear. I remember reading once that as a rule of thumb, “one pound on your feet equals five pounds on your back.” There appears to be some evidence to support this too, and some of this has been collated in an article on FJÄDERLÄTT, a Nordic lightweight backpacking website . Basically though, when thinking about energy expenditure, the lighter your footwear the better.

What SCARPA say:

 

“This B3 rated boot is ideal for mixed and cascade, fast alpine and alpine rock climbing.  A specifically designed carbon mid-sole is tough but very, very light and allows a little bit of progressive flex to enhance climbing sensitivity and approach comfort. 

Talking about comfort, the Sock Fit Plus with built in RIBS and the new NAG last offer a fit and comfort level more associated to a pair of snugly fitting slippers than some hard-core mountain boots.

Weather protection, durability and insulation is taken care of by the new KCN-TECH Fabric on the outside, which is constructed from Kevlar, Nylon and Cordura,  and a full GORE-TEX (Insulated Comfort Footwear) liner on the inside

An all new sole and updated sole unit produce plenty of traction and help save energy whilst on approach with the Re-Active AC sole which utilises Scarpa’s Activ impact Technology.

Look at the weight 730g per boot! (size 42/ UK8).”

   

So far I have mainly used the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex for Scottish winter climbing. A mixture of ice and mixed routes, and also some technical scrambling in North Wales. Prior to using the boots my main concern was how warm they would or wouldn’t be. Friends mocked, telling me I needed to prepare for cold toes unless I was going to be moving fast. So were they correct?

SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – not the warmest winter boot but great to climb in.  

Well, yes and no. Firstly I’d like to say that the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex boots are light and comfortable. They feel like you are winter climbing in ‘fruit boots’ and walking in lightweight hiking boots. They really are that precise and comfortable.

 

When climbing rock the boots feel very precise and I would quite happily tackle technical rock climbs and easy scrambles in these. As it says on the SCARPA website: “The Flex Point System allows your ankles complete freedom of movement, even in the stiffest of boots, whilst maintaining support and confidence on all terrains.” And it is this ankle flexibility that provides excellent freedom of movement on technical rock, ice and mixed ground. Team these boots up with a technical monopoint crampon such as Grivel’s G20 or Petzl’s Dart and you’re looking at almost rockshoe like sensitivity and precision on ice and mixed ground, with low weight too. The lightness and sensitivity are aided by a carbon insole which gives a tiny bit of progressive flex. The downside of the ankle flexibility is that there is less support for the ankles on scree and uneven ground and I probably wouldn’t want to frontpoint up a 60 degree ice slope for 1000 metres in these, as it would probably give my calf muscles quite a hammering! They are incredible to walk in and climb technical ground though.

SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – Comfortable to walk and climb in.  

So, back to the warmth question…how warm are they? Well, I suppose this is a little subjective. I tend to suffer more than my friends when it comes to cold hands and feet. And during this past winter in Scotland, I did find that I got cold toes when wearing the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex. How cold depended upon how far below zero it was (obviously) and also how long I was stood still. In short, I found them bearable (definitely not warm) for Scottish winter routes but although I didn’t use them for continental ice and mixed climbs in the winter season, I am pretty sure they would have been too cold for me. I would stick with the Phantom Guide for day routes, or the Phantom 6000 for multi day alpine routes in winter. This said, I have yet to use these boots for Summer alpinism and for this, I feel they will be perfect. Look out for part 2 of my review at the end of the Summer.

SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – Great for steep mixed ground!  

One concern I have with kit that is becoming increasingly lighter and lighter in weight, is how well it will wear. So far I have found no durability issues with Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex, the outers are still in perfect condition and there are no signs of premature wear on the soles. They also survived the stream ‘watertight’ test on their last outing! In terms of sealing out the elements, the integrated gaiter does a very good job and works well with trousers tucked in or over the top. I did find the laces a little short when trying to get a good secure fit around the ankles, and the velcro tongue was a bit snug and fiddly but maybe once fastened they worked well.

 

So the overall conclusion so far is that for UK winter climbing, easy rock and scrambles, the SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex is a great boot. It is quite specialist and won’t suit everybody’s needs but for technical ice and mixed, scrambles and easy rock, it is a boot that climbs fantastically. On the downside, some may find that the ankle is not as supportive as a conventional B3 boot and don’t expect to have warm toes!

 

Look out for part two of this review in a July when I’ve put them through the test in summer alpine conditions.

• RRP: £449.99
• Find out more and buy these from the SCARPA website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – Climbing Gear Review
23 April 2014, 2:56 pm





Performance ?????

Durability ?????

Value ????

 

Over the ski touring season we’ve tested a couple of products from Haglöfs. The first of these being the Rando Flex Pant. So how were they? Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – great ski touring trousers. Here in use on a sunny but cold day on the summit of Pigne D’Arolla, Switzerland. The Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant is what they call a: “Durable, fully equipped Soft Shell stretch pants that are perfect for randonee.” Randonnee is actually a French word meaning excursion and can refer to a few different things but in the case of the Rando Flex Pant, it is talking about ski touring.

Here at CGR we’ve used the Rando Flex Pant on a number of ski touring excursions and have been generally quite impressed. As they are aimed at this activity we have not used them for an awful lot else but there is no reason why you couldn’t wear them for general mountaineering or ice climbing. However, the cut of the trouser is definitely more aimed at skiing as it is quite roomy/relaxed in the leg and I would generally prefer something more fitted for out and out climbing. For ski mountaineering they are perfect though.

Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – the fabric was comfortable, durable and did a great job of regulating my temperature whilst skinning. Starting with the fit I quickly noticed that they are quite big for their size. I have a 30 inch waist and my test pair were size small (which equates to a 30 inch waist). The waist seemed very roomy for the given size (I hadn’t lost weight!) and I was glad of the integrated belt and simple braces system to help keep them positioned on my waist. The zippered fly worked smoothly and was accessible even with gloves. The high quality press studs on the waist were secure and easy to open and close.

 

The leg length worked fine for me, I have a regular inside leg (32 inch) and the Rando Flex Pants were neither too long nor too short. The cut of the trousers was quite relaxed without being too baggy and they worked fine with or without long johns, providing excellent freedom of movement. This comfort and freedom of movement was aided by the articulated knees and offset side and inner leg seems, the latter also helping to ensure there was no undue chafing! They fitted easily over ski boots, even when the cuffs of the boots were loosened (in walk mode) whilst skinning uphill. A zippered opening on the back helped with this but actually the trousers would have been fine without. I also liked the simple internal gaiter which provided a good seal around the bottom of my ski boots with it’s silicone grip.

The Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant is a softshell pant, it isn’t waterproof. The non membrane stretch FlexAble fabrics provided decent weather resistance to wind and moisture and with the aid of the DWR finish, repelled rain or wet snow adequately enough that I didn’t feel like I needed to put waterproofs on if it was just a shower. The fabric seems to be tough as well and I have yet to see any signs of wear and tear. The abrasion patches around the ankles have stood up to crampon and ski edge abuse too.

Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – note the kick patches to resist abrasion from ski edges and crampons. The demands of ski touring in Spring conditions can mean that you need something that regulates your temperature efficiently and the Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant did this extremely well. They are a very breathable trouser and I really liked the closed mesh backer on the inside as this did a good job of feeling comfortable next to my skin and wicking moisture away. If things got too hot on the climbs then the huge vents on either leg, regulated my temperature quite nicely but could be securely zipped up for the descents. If it was really cold I added thin wool long johns underneath.

To finish off the package the Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant has 3 zippered pockets to keep valuables, lip balm and suncream close to hand.

All in all I found these trousers to be perfect for ski touring and ski mountaineering. The cut, whilst quite roomy was great for skiing in and the fabric was very comfortable and durable. The braces were super easy to use and adjust. If you are looking for one pant to do all jobs in the mountains then this is perhaps not the best choice but for Randonnee it is ideal.

 

• RRP: £179.99
• Visit the Haglöfs website.

 

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

[comPiler]

Deuter Provoke 16 Snowsports Pack – Climbing Gear Review
29 April 2014, 2:07 pm



Kasia Baldwin tests out the Provoke 16 pack from Deuter…  Performance ????

Features ?????

Value ????

When given this little pack to try out I was thrilled as I’m already a bit of a Deuter fan and a week skiing in Chamonix was calling.

The 16 litre pack, which is part of the Deuter Alpine series, comes in two colour options, Turquoise-Kiwi or Fire-Black. I personally really liked the brightness of the Turquoise and Kiwi version. At a weight of 1050g it’s not the lightest pack on the market but I think sometimes you have to balance weight with comfort and this pack was certainly comfortable to wear all day.

Deuter Provoke Pack – comfortable to wear whilst skiing. Size wise, made to hold 16 litres, its dimensions are 53cm high, 26cm wide with a max depth of 16cm. It’s not huge so whilst it’s not ideal for a day of ski mountaineering its perfect for a day ski touring or some off piste slope action. The slim profile meant I could also fit on a ski lift whilst wearing the pack. Another way to create a bit of storage space is to buy Deuter’s mesh helmet holder. This pack has the attachments for the holder so you can easily carry your helmet on the front. I also found this useful to store the skins for my skis when not in use.

When using the pack on an off piste day adventure, I managed to fit in a Black Diamond snow shovel, an avalanche probe, a two litre water bladder, climbing harness and an ice screw and a sling. As well as a pair of goggles some food, spare pair of gloves and a gilet. So big enough for the essentials.

Deuter Provoke Pack – dedicated shovel and probe pocket. So looking at the features of the bag…

There is one main pocket which has a divide for a water bladder, a mesh inner pocket for your valuables and the standard Deuter SOS label to remind you want to do in an emergency! The main compartment has two zip pulls which you can press stud together for added security. Less chance for the zips to pull open when the rucksack is stuffed to the rim. There is also a ‘sleeve’ sewn into the main compartment for stowing your avalanche probe – stops it moving around and getting in the way of your other kit.

The rucksack also has a small soft lined, padded pocket on the front to store your goggles/sunglasses. The soft lining helps to stop your goggles getting scratched. I also found I could store some lip balm and a cereal bar in there for quick access instead of routing around in the main compartment.

One of the great features of this bag is the fact that whether you’re a skier or a boarder this little bag can carry either skis or a snowboard. I had no trouble attaching my skis on the walking sections at the start and finish of the Valle Blanche. I used the A-frame method though you can opt for a front diagonal carry if that’s your preferred method. I’ve not tried attaching my snowboard as yet but I’m sure it’s simple enough to work out. The bag also boasts one adjustable ice axe loop which can be stuffed neatly away when you don’t need it – saves it flapping about or getting caught on things.

Deuter Provoke Pack – comfortable and sturdy for carrying skis or snowboard. Other features include side compression straps an emergency whistle on the chest strap and a ‘neoprene tunnel’ which is integrated in the right shoulder strap to feed through your water bladder tube so it doesn’t freeze. This tunnel has a little zip so you can stowaway the end of your tube when not in use. I found this could be a little fiddly at times but no major hassle.

Overall I really rate the bag for single days out skiing, whether you’re playing on the slopes, going off piste or doing some ski touring. Whilst I’ve already mentioned it’s not the lightest bag around, I’d rather have something a little heavier that didn’t dig into my waist or shoulders. As well as feeling comfortable it also felt secure on my back and didn’t feel to get in the way at all so I could concentrate on enjoying myself. A great pack which I’m sure I’ll use for carting bits of kit around town as well and not just on the hill.

• RRP: £80
• Find out more at the Deuter website.

Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
1 May 2014, 8:06 pm



This is the second of our Haglöfs tests aimed at “rando” or ski touring. This time the Rando Hybrid Jacket. So what’s the verdict?  Performance ?????

Features ?????

Value ????

 

Haglöfs say that: “The Rando Hybrid Jacket is a lightweight and versatile softshell jacket that offers a mix of wind resistance and freedom of movement, making them perfect for Randonee and similar activities.“

 

A great jacket for ski mountaineering. Here on the summit of the Bruggenhorn. I’ve used the Rando Hybrid Jacket for ski touring and general mountaineering and I have to say it is a very comfortable and versatile piece of kit. I like the comfort and flexibility that softshell clothing allows; yes it won’t keep me dry in a heavy downpour, but otherwise it’s pretty much perfect.

 

The “Hybrid” bit of the title is referring to the fabrics used to produce the jacket. The main body is produced in a Gore Windstopper 3 layer softshell fabric, the idea being that maximum wind and moisture protection is placed where you need it most e.g. your core, and the rest is constructed using Flexable stretch softshell fabric, which still offers excellent moisture and wind protection, but is more breathable and lighter. This kind of ‘fabric mapping’ is not new but is a good way of maximising the benefits of certain fabrics, just in the areas that they are needed. All the fabrics on the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket are treated with a DWR (Durable Water Repellant) finish, to maximise water repellancy. The fabrics stretch throughout, helping with the freedom of movement.

Great for ski touring! Seen in use here in the Aiguiles Rouges, France. So, a little bit more about the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket… It is cut to about hip length, with a slightly dropped seat to help protect your bum from the elements. The hem is drawcord adjustable and has a rubberised underside to help grip, seal out snow and stop it riding up, particularly useful if you are wearing a harness. The fit is roomy enough to accommodate a couple of insulation layers underneath (I usually wear a thin wicking layer and a light fleece midlayer) but there is no excess fabric flapping around either. Articulation is good and there is plenty of freedom of movement for climbing and skiing. I certainly had no issues with the jacket riding up when I was climbing, or the sleeves being too short.

The hood on the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket is simply awesome. This is something that lets a lot of so-called technical jackets down, but not here. The hood works well over a ski helmet, climbing helmet or even just your head! The three-way adjustment is easy and effective and can be done wearing gloves.

The hybrid construction keeps you comfortable whether you’re going uphill or down. The hood is fantastic too. The full main zip with inner placket and laminated chin guard is easy to operate and clearly of good quality. The chin guard is comfortable and the inner placket repels the wind. The zip is actually a 2 way one which although a nice touch, I’m not sure is particularly necessary in a jacket like this.

The cuffs are adjusted by a simple velcro closure system and so far this is proving to be both durable and functional. The Rando Hybrid also has lots of storage space, with one chest pocket and 2 large mid-mounted hand pockets. These are positioned so as to not interfere with a climbing harness or rucksack straps and they work brilliantly, keeping everything you need (suncream, bars, compass etc) close by, but secure as well.

 

All in all the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid is a great softshell jacket for ski touring and general mountaineering. It is well cut and very breathable, but the Windstopper fabric on the body keeps the weather at bay. The hood is awesome and the great articulation and stretch fabrics make it a joy to wear. A perfect addition to any outdoor wardrobe!

• RRP: £220
• Visit the Haglöfs Website.

 

 

 

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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DMM Renegade 2 – Climbing Gear Review
6 May 2014, 4:36 pm

DMM Renegade 2 Dave tests out the new and improved DMM Renegade 2 harness – a true all rounder?

This really is the ultimate all rounder; a clever design that works across the full range of climbing disciplines: from cragging and winter climbing to big alpine routes.

Performance ****

Versatility ****

Value*****

I had my original DMM Renegade for quite a while (which is saying something for a gear freak). I liked the fit, the seven gear loops, the floating waistbelt and the overall quality as I’m quite a fan of DMM kit. I eventually changed it as I’d ripped one of the Hypalon ice clipper slots. DMM have done a great job with the Renegade 2, more than just a few cosmetic tweaks, they have completely revamped it to give a good quality all mountain harness. The thing I like most of all is the floating waistbelt, I liked it in the original renegade and I still do. After tightening the auto lock buckle you can slide the waistbelt around to that the gear loops are in just the right place for you. The other advantage is if you have bought the harness on a borderline sizing (let’s say you’re a small but feel a medium just fits better) then you are not going to get lop sided gear loop arrangements – genius.

The DMM Renegade 2 was comfortable as a big route, all day harness. The fit is very comfortable, I am doing a lot of instructional work this year as I prepare for my MIA assessment (Mountaineering Instructor Award – a UK multi pitch and mountaineering guide qualification) so I’ve spent a considerable amount of time in this harness. No matter how long I’ve spent in it, it has remained very comfortable, even in my personal winter climbing it has been a great all day harness. The ergonomically shaped back is just enough to give some support without feeling overly bulky. The rigid, foam inner also added support in both the waistbelt and the leg loops. The floating waistbelt is made from 25mm webbing and tightened using a smooth working autolock buckle. It was great to undo and easy to rethread (important in winter, especially the leg loops – just ask anyone who has teetered above a very steep slope trying to get legloops over crampons!). The excess tape was smoothly tucked away using the three elasticated loops.

The tie-in loops were well sewn and burly enough, but not as burly as some harnesses we’ve tested this season. This is one area of your harness that you should look at regularly and will usually be the main reason why you retire it. It takes the most punishment and is a high wear area as the only time there is not considerable pressure on it is when you are actually climbing, until you fall off that is. So with rope running across it several times a day, pressure from your weight rubbing against it I like to see manufacturers pay particular attention to it. I counted three layers of webbing on the DMM Renegade 2, two webbing and one abrasion resistant layer. I would have liked to seen the abrasion resistant layer a full sleeve around the loop. That’s not to say it wasn’t burly and didn’t work well, I just feel that a little more redundancy in this area always pays dividends in perceived security.

The DMM Renegade 2 gear loops swallowed up any sized rack. For instructional work I loved the seven gear loops, they also worked well for winter climbing. For normal summer rock climbing I found 5 worked best and sometimes didn’t use the front two as I found I constantly had gear swinging around my thighs (I think this may be because I had a medium and I’m one of those people that is a borderline size – too fat for a small but too thin for a medium). In the original Renegade the gear loops were the standard tubular webbing covered in clear plastic tubing. The Renegade 2 completely reverses this with a pre formed hard plastic tube covered in an abrasion resistant material. I’ve been testing the DMM Renegade for several months now and they’re showing no signs of wear, time will tell whether this system is an improvement on the Renegade 1. Overall though the gear loop arrangement is great, for my Instructional and Guiding work they are a godsend as I’m carrying lots of extras as well as winter climbing and routes where I needed lot’s of gear.

The legloops are also made using 5mm foam inserts and were very comfortable. There was a little adjustment from the elasticated rear strips. These detached with a small clip buckle and were fine to use without gloves on but very fiddly with them one, to be fair though I’ve never come across a harness that has this issue sorted. They adjusted very smoothly with an auto lock buckle and the excess tape was tidied away through a webbed and elasticated loop. The loop at the fronts help tuck away the excess webbing but it is very import to know that this isn’t a loop for a carabiner, the designers have extended the buckle away from the webbing junction so the any carabiner used for abseiling sits above the buckle. This ensure the correct loading and reduces the chances of accidental opening when attaching a prusick back to the leg loop. There is further guidance on backing up abseils on the BMC website.

A great winter climbing harness – but the ice clipper slots still need some work on them. Finally, back to the ice clipper slots. I began the review by saying that I had stopped using my original Renegade as I’d ripped one the ice clipper slots. I don’t know how I did it as the holders are made from Hypalon (which is pretty tough). DMM haven’t really changed the design, They work well enough and take both the Petzl and Black Diamond clippers but the slot still feels a little flimsy and when I’m dangling up to £300 worth of ice screws on it I feel this is an area that needs further improvement. So, in conclusion, the DMM Renegade 2 is a great all round mountain harness. It will perform well for all climbing activities, is very comfortable and the seven gear loops work well and are useful (especially for big multi pitch rock and winter routes). It’s been my ‘go to’ harness for instructional/guiding work and is definitely a good improvement on the original Renegade. If you are going to buy just one harness for everything you do then you will find the Renegade 2 good value for money.

SRP: £70.00

Stockists



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – Climbing Gear Review, Long Term Test
8 May 2014, 3:01 pm



We recently reviewed the Jöttnar Bergelmir Shell Jacket and the conclusion was that it was pretty damn good. So how does the Jöttnar Vanir Salopette compare?  Performance ?????

Durability ?????

Value ?????

Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – great for technical mixed climbing such as that found on Gargoyle Wall, Ben Nevis Jöttnar are a relatively new company, with a small range of quality kit that aims to “offer modern day suits of mountain armour, designed to protect you against your most formidable opponents” that opponent being, the weather!

Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – great protection from the rain. Here seen used on some technical scrambles on the Idwal Slabs, North Wales. I have used the Vanir Salopette in a wide range of conditions over the course of what has been quite a long test, Scottish winter climbing (rain, wind, snow, hail and everything in between, plus a large dose of abrasive rock), Alpine climbing (extreme cold, altitude, warmth, north faces, ice, snow, rough granite and limestone) and also skiing. So they’ve had a pretty thorough test and battled quite a lot of formidable “Giants”.

Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – driving wet snow, wind and fluctuating temperatures are typical of a Scottish winter day out and the Jöttnar Vanir Salopette coped brilliantly. Jöttnar say that the Vanir is:

“A fully featured winter salopette designed for extreme mountain conditions. Constructed from Polartec® Neoshell® it delivers true breathability, stretch and robustness in a lightweight and fully waterproof package. With an athletic cut, articulated and reinforced knees, zip-out gaiters, stretch-woven back, harness-friendly ¾ length side zips and full-sized Kevlar™ instep protectors, Vanir is the professional’s choice.”

I’d like to start by saying I’ve loved wearing the Vanir Salopettes. I usually hate wearing hard shell trousers, hating the rustling bulky fabrics and sweaty (breathable!) membranes, but this winter has been so wet when out in the UK hills, that I’ve really had no choice! Luckily the Vanir Salopettes arrived just in time and after their first outing there was never really any decision to be made. Usually if I thought I could get away with it I would definitely always wear softshell but after one day in the Vanir this winter, that was able to change!

Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – the cold and dry conditions that can be found during an Alpine winter require clothing that is flexible and breathable but also ready to protect you if the weather changes suddenly. Here the Jöttnar Vanir Salopette gets an outing on the Eiger North Face. It wasn’t just the fabrics and sweaty membranes that had put me off hardshell trousers in the past, it was also the cut. I could never find a trouser that was cut perfectly for technical climbing. They were usually too baggy, more for general mountaineering and skiing. And that was the first big positive I noticed with the Vanir Salopette, the cut (which is described as athletic) actually seems to have been designed with climbing in mind! It’s perfect! And I can still wear them with ski boots if I need to, although it is a snug fit.

In his review of the Bergelmir Shell Jacket, Dave described it as a “hardshell with a soft side” and I would say exactly the same for the Vanir Salopette. They are fully waterproof hardshell trousers but feel as comfortable to wear as softshell trousers. I love the stretchy face fabric, which when coupled with the excellent cut, was brilliant to climb in, being protective and unrestrictive, tailored with fabric just where it is needed and not where it’s not. The articulation seemed perfect for me! Clearly a lot of thought has been put into this and it’s paid off as these are the best fitting technical hardshell pant/salopette that I’ve used.

The Vanir Salopettes have waterproof zips which open all the way up to your hips and this means that they are easy to get on and off whether you have trainers on or ski boots. Whilst the Vanir sports waterproof and breathable Polartec Neoshell fabric up to the waist on the back and the chest on the front, the rear bib part of the salopette is constructed from a stretch woven fabric, the idea being that this will be more comfortable and breathable against your back, particularly when wearing a pack. I don’t think the bib part of the salopettes needs to be constructed in a membrane fabric at all really as if it is raining or very windy then you would likely be wearing a shell jacket of some kind anyway.

Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – won’t let you down in demanding mountain environments. The front of the bib has a zip which runs from chest height down to your crotch so ventilation is easy, as is taking a pee! However answering more serious calls of nature is not so easy, particularly when wearing a climbing harness and although you can release the elasticated (and easily adjustable) braces without fully taking off your outer jacket, you still need to drop your harness and it’s all pretty fiddly to get back on afterwards. There is definitely a challenge out there for a company to design a brilliant pair of salopettes like the Vanir but that are easy to use when answering calls of nature! I suppose it’s all a balance and ideally you won’t have to “go” more than once a day anyway! The fly zipper on the Vanir is easy to use when wearing gloves and the belt is comfortable and secure even with a harness on.

Thomas Kelly, Director of Sales and Marketing at Jöttnar, had this to say about the toilet-friendliness issue:

Just for interest, the toilet-friendliness issue is something we were conscious of but was ultimately out-prioritised by other considerations.  Our preference was with 3/4 length zips in order not to have a zip running over the hip bone which, when worn under a harness for multiple hours with a heavy rack, turns into an uncomfortable pressure point.   The other drop-seat method, where the zip curls around the mid-point on the backside, was also discarded.  In our own testing and experience, a zip orientated in such a way becomes a real point of weakness due to the forces exerted on it by the continual bending, twisting and stretching of the buttocks and hips.  From an aesthetic perspective also, it’s not a particularly elegant look and it would have compromised the tailored fit that we wanted.

In my own experience, drop seats really don’t add much at all in the way of convenience and the process is made no less uncomfortable or inconvenient with them.  As long as you can easily remove the braces, which you can on Vanir, then the whole toilet episode is manageable.  I fully appreciate that this is a personal preference thing, and it was a subject of much deliberation, but our priorities here were driven by fit, climbing performance, comfort and simplicity.

One of my favourite features on the Vanir Salopette are the huge Kevlar kick patches which protect the ankle and lower leg area from crampon spikes, ski edges and general abrasion. These patches probably reach twice the height of any other technical trouser/salopette I have used (hardshell or softshell). I have to say that on all these other trousers, I never once put a hole in them in the kick patch area (it was always too low) and it was always just in the area above. Needless to say, I have not put any holes in the Vanir, as the protection is actually where you need it! The “Waterproof, breathable, stretch, 3 layer Polartec® Neoshell® in legs, seat and front bib. 136 g/m2″ main fabric has proved to be very durable with no holes and only the odd loop pulling from the outer face fabric where they have been exposed to sharp points such as racked ice screws. The other main wear areas, the seat and knees, are actually both reinforced as well.

Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – note the HUGE kick patches on the insteps! Other features I really like on the Vanir Salopette are the internal gaiters, which provide a snug fit over my mountaineering boots, sealing out any moisture. This works particularly well if you add bungy elastics to the tie down loops. I did find that with the gaiters fitted the whole system was a little tight to work comfortably with my ski boots but in these cases I just removed the gaiter and everything worked fine.

The Vanir Salopettes have a few pockets to store valuables and keep them safe. There are 2 chest pockets and 1 trouser pocket. This is more than adequate and they all close using waterproof zippers with glove friendly tabs.

Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – waterproof zippers and nice attention to detail. So to conclude, the Vanir Salopette is a brilliantly cut salopette for technical climbing (the best I have used) and also works for skiing. The stretch Neoshell fabric gives the protection of a hardshell with the comfort and freedom of movement of a softshell and protects from any wind rain and snow the worst Scottish winter can throw at it! The quality of these salopettes is awesome and attention to detail has been everything. They’re not the lightest piece of leg protection out there but they’re definitely bombproof. They’re also not as easy to use when answer calls of nature as I’d perhaps like. I’d love to see a standard trouser version of these with removable braces. All in all a great piece of kit and worth the hefty price tag in my humble opinion. It’s not often we give out 5 start ratings across the board!

 

• RRP: £350
• Find out more at the Jöttnar website.

 

 



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Gear news – Evolv Valor
10 May 2014, 10:13 am



Evolv Valor  

A new entry level, well priced shoe from Evolv. Look out for them this summer.

The Evolv Valor is a perfect entry-point to quality high performance climbing shoes, and an outstanding training shoe. The Valor provides comfort, great fit and an ideal balance of support and sensitivity to climbers of all levels.

Designed as a development of the ever-popular Defy model, the Valor offers increased underfoot support from a stiffer 1mm midsole. This results in less foot fatigue for newer climbers or during longer climbing sessions.

A plush nylon lining provides a bedroom slipper feel, and perforated synthetic upper allows breathability while minimizing stretch.

Features:

-          Assymetric profile

-          Perforated synthetic upper

-          1mm half-length midsole

-          VTR Rand

-          4.2mm TRAX high friction rubber sole

SRP £75



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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adidas Terrex Solo Stealth – Gear news
19 May 2014, 10:26 am





Ever wondered how the partnership between adidas and 5.10 would turn out? Well, here’s what must be the first of many shoes to come. With the dual experience of trainer design from adidas and climbing shoe technology of 5.10 we’re predicting some great shoes to come. The adidas Terrex Solo are available in shops from Monday 5th May.

Our first thoughts are these are very, very sticky.

SRP £95



Source: Climbing Gear Reviews

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Via Ferratas of The French Alps – CGR book review
19 May 2014, 12:01 pm



Dave takes a look at that most enjoyable rest day activity climbing Via Ferratas.

This guidebook covers 66 varied via ferratas in the French Alps. The routes are spread over six areas: Geneva and the Northern Alps, Chambéry, Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, Grenoble and Briançon, amid the Mont Blanc, Vanoise and Queyras ranges. Difficulty ranges from easy, protected routes through to exposed, technical challenges.

I love Via Ferratas and will always seek them out on rest days, they have everything for me as a climber – that sense of exposure, upwards movement and getting into special places. Of course climbing Via Ferrata are an activity in their own right and many people enjoy them for the same reasons as I do without the rest day bit!

Via Ferratas of The French Alps by Richard Millar is a good, comprehensive guide covering routes throughout 6 regions of the French Alps from Geneva in the north through to Embrun in the south and this makes sense as they cover the two main airports of Chambery and Geneva.

The introduction covers all aspects of using the guide and gives some basic pointers on the equipment required and techniques needed as well as some of the dangers you might encounter on a day out. All well set out and easy to read, Miller uses the more commonly used grading system of a serious grading of A- C (where C is a remote, high route) and a technical grade of 1-5 with 1 being technically straight forward – say a family or beginners route and 5 having the full range of commitment and overhanging sections), he also add an exposure grade of 1-5. I feel this could have been incorporated into the seriousness grade and extended his levels to A-E as it would lessen the confusion. That said they were easy to understand and this is an area I feel the UIAA need to work on as the sport becoming more popular.

How good can it get? The perfect Alpine day out for families, hikers and resting Aplinists! Each section has a good selection of routes with comprehensive route descriptions and other information on escape points, descents and topo photos as well as some great motivational shots. The topo diagrams were supported with symbols from a map key. This was difficult to find in the introduction and would have been much better placed on the inside front/back cover so I could get to see it quickly. The preponderance of symbols also led to some very cluttered looking photo topos. That said the route descriptions look easy to follow en-route and are very detailed.

Clear photos gave good route info. So the Via Ferrata guide to The French Alps is a well written and easy to follow guide that should be a valuable addition to any Alps visitors list of guides to take with them. Whether you love them or hate them, it’s fast growing element within Alpine Sports and is very, very popular for all the right reasons. Richard Millars guide is well worth the money for english speaking via ferrata lovers. Now can we have one for Austria please!

SRP: £17.95

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews