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Snow proof probs list (Read 64315 times)

Bonjoy

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Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 09:32:32 am
Obviously you should all go and do something more appropriate with the snow, snowboarding, ice climbing, frost napping etc. But for the obsessed and the one track minded I thought I’d start a list of probs that might be worth a look either now or once things have settled down a bit. I’ve not tried to take into account how easy it would be to get to the crag or how hideously cold it might be.
I’ve gone through my old east peak 7+8 list and picked out the most likely candidates.
Maybe other folk could suggest stuff for other areas.

The first lot are the most reliably snow/melt proof:

Route 66, Hat Trick, Desert Island Disco, Non Stick Vicar, Smears for Ears, Taxi to the Crag – Black Rocks
Hueco Wall probs – Cratcliffe
No Regrets, Growler, The Kid - Robin Hood Stride
Goose Creature (and Canon), Moo Cow, Liquid Cool – Shining Cliff
Most stuff at eatswood, though a few finish holds will be snowy/wet
Perfect Day Direct, Stump Hole Cavern – Gardoms
Desperot – Chatsworth
Block N Tackle Direct, Witness the Gritness –Higgar
Purist Energy, Skinless Wonder Start– Apparent North
Back in the YMCA – Plantation
Walk on By, Sean’s Arete, Ramboid – Curbar
Probs on Froggatt Pinnacle, Slingshot/Chequer’s Groove – Froggatt
Them, Crème de la Crème Direct – Yarncliffe
Leotard Legend – Burb South
Moontan - Rivelin
Thumb Wars - Rivelin
The Stanton Shuffle - Stanton
Scrapheap Challenge - Harthill Quarry (next door to Clifftop Boulders)
Pleasant Street - Cratcliffe (at base of crag under Requiem)

These lot are all good options but you’ll have to take into account stuff like  frost/melt on northern aspects, snow on the odd hold, topout might need some brushing off, prob might get wet in heavy melt conditions and the presence of any drifting:

Jerry’s Trav, Babu Yagu, RHS Cave probs – Cratcliffe/RHS
Probs on the Cork Stone – Stanton
Most probs on Clifftop boulder
Finger Bang, River of Life, Gibbon Swing – Turning Stone
Most stuff at Birchen
Double Bum, Plan D, Forward Thinking Sound Engineer – Gardom’s South
Attitude Inspector, The Rib, David trav, Pebble Mill probs – Burb South
Small is Beautiful, Banana Finger block, Remergence area, Striker – Burb N
West Side Story – Burb West
Golden Path, Nightsalt, Help the Young, Careless Torque, Courtesy of Jonboy, Green Room Slap – Stanage
Curvaceous, Blunted, Sweet Release – Wharncliffe
Higher Ground(?), Fact Hunt etc(?), Hot Ziggerty wall – Baslow
Great White, Ben’s Wall, Baby Belle – Curbar
Rambeau, Downhill Direct, Sole Power – Froggatt
Most stuff at Millstone
David, Conan – Mother Cap
Green Flag – Carl Wark
Glom Onto, Chimp B, Iain's Dyno, Cheeks N Beaks, Nik's Wall, Sparks - Rivelin
Kappix - Harthill Quarry


Edit: Have modified to include/exclude a few bits mentioned in thread below
« Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 07:53:17 pm by Bonjoy »

uptown

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#1 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 10:01:38 am
Would Clifftop be a good spot after a brush of the top Jon?
Also in that area - The Stanton shuffle is reliable bar the starting grips.

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 10:11:20 am
Aye, Clifftop should be fine bar the topout.

T_B

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#3 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 10:16:35 am
Happy Campus at Rivelin takes some drainage. Went up there last winter and it was wet, though Cheeks n Beaks to the right was probably doable.

willackers

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#4 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 10:31:01 am
What's it like to get around in the Peak at the moment?

I was supposed to be venturing down from Glasgow this weekend until we got all this snow, do you think I would get much climbing done or would it be a waste of Diesel?

Not climbed outside in ages! Arghhh!  :furious:

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 10:39:45 am
Go Snowballing in Northumberland. Most crags are only a short walk from the A1 :)

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#6 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 10:42:17 am
I had ruled the County out because I know how bad it has been there, do you think it would be worth trying?, what crags do you think would be worth giving a shot?

Cheers

T_B

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#7 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 10:58:02 am
I've not been out to the Peak, but I would have thought that the main roads are OK, so venues like Froggatt/Gardoms/Rivelin should be a decent bet. Don't know about Ringinglow though. Depends what vehicle you have. My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.

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#8 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 11:19:51 am
I had ruled the County out because I know how bad it has been there, do you think it would be worth trying?, what crags do you think would be worth giving a shot?

Cheers

Not sure TBH. Would have thought the road from Belford to Wooler is a pretty major one, so they should have kept that reasonably clear so you could access Bowden and Walk to BB. Parking on the verge may be challenging though. A shovel would be a good idea to clear parking places if nothing else. Some local knowledge might be useful, try posting a seperate thread.

cofe

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#9 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 11:40:16 am
Happy Campus at Rivelin takes some drainage. Went up there last winter and it was wet, though Cheeks n Beaks to the right was probably doable.

Was going to say exactly the same thing. HC is right on the drainage line.

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#10 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 12:15:36 pm
Yorkshire's reliable(ish) problems last year:

Almscliff: The usuals:
Demon Wall Roof problems (as long as the snow isn't melting, otherwise you'll get dripped on)
Crucifix Traverse
Keel (minus top out) Think the haul links were climbable too.
Virgin: Cherry Falls, Cherry Falls RH, Ramp Problem, Gaskins 8A
Black wall problems: Dreamtime, BW Dyno and Blackhead should be OK (Blackhead is really good, but scary, must go back to finish).
Jess's Roof.

Brimham:
Happy Days block, inc. Ian's traverse and the Fonze
Jokers Wall (Obviously)

Caley: I wouldn't bother really, had a look round last year and wasn't enthused. Could probably sort out some stuff with big brushes and enthusiasm!

Earl: Didn't check last year, but looked decidedly luminous from across the valley

Hunter Stones:  Went for a look last year and everything was very wet, plus it catches and wind going so was totally freezing!

Whitehouses: As per other thread, if the road is clear should be fine.



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#11 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 12:32:21 pm
What about the prow thing near matterhorn, chizmata I think?  Plus how epic are the roads up there?

Bonjoy

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#12 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 12:41:16 pm
Stuff on the steep side of the Calf must be a safe bet. Crimpy Roof at Brimham probably ok so long as it's not buried. Probably a few other things at Brimham eg No Red Tape, Happy Daze, stuff on the Niche

Stubbs

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#13 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 12:46:49 pm
Calf Steep face yep, although obviously it's absolutely baltic up there.

Forgot Crimpy Roof, all probs were totally fine last year, as was the LoBo/5p10p block after some light cleaning.

Right Hand End of No Red Tape was very wet, I metnioned Happy Days  ;) Think a lot of the niche stuff was wet.

No Idea about Chiasmate, neither side is a line of drainage, although the ground above it is very slabby so could be wet (I know that's not helpful at all).

dave

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#14 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 01:40:15 pm
I've not been out to the Peak, but I would have thought that the main roads are OK, so venues like Froggatt/Gardoms/Rivelin should be a decent bet. Don't know about Ringinglow though. Depends what vehicle you have. My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.

Apparently the road from Owler Bar to Baslow is OK although on that bendy bit its only just clear enough for one car. This is from someone at my work who lives in baslow. Eccy road to foxe house at least would probably be fine (maybe see if the 272 is running, that would be a fair indicator), although I've only been as far as Dore Moor.

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#15 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 01:54:40 pm
Blockbuster at Caley is a good snow one as its always dry and i'd say its a tick if you didn't top out cos top out easy peasy, that pinch feels good when its this cold too.

Pedestal arete probably ok to with i bit of a brush... actually with the amount of snow we,ve had up leeds way ( 10" on wednesday at least ) we'll be diggin the boulders out

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#16 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 05:00:04 pm
At the moment the problem with Caley is that the lay-bys are buried in snow! Needs someone with a 4x4 and a shovel... I was at Almscliff today, the road up there is no worse than it was last winter (i.e. about an inch of compacted snow but not too icy on the bends) and I saw a gritting truck come round from North Rigton, turn left down towards Huby and then come back past the crag so it's had a bit of grit on it today.

At the Cliff the pocket on the Keel was wet, Demon Wall Roof was dry but snow was melting above it so there were some drips coming down when I left, Underhand was fine (apart from the top-out), the front of the Virgin was dry. I brushed a bit of snow off Streaky's but there was ice on the rock under the snow so it may take a while to dry.

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#17 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 06:52:54 pm
Off topic a bit here...

My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.

Narrow wheels, great in the snow.

Has he actually got a Fiat Panda 4x4 ?

Awesome vehicle and and très populaire dans Les Alpes in the 90's. I can only imagine what the modern version is like.

tomtom

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#18 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 03, 2010, 07:22:08 pm
Off topic a bit here...

My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.

Narrow wheels, great in the snow.

Has he actually got a Fiat Panda 4x4 ?

Awesome vehicle and and très populaire dans Les Alpes in the 90's. I can only imagine what the modern version is like.

Good - MrsTT's extended family have a house in N.Lakes 400m elevation, end of a valley  - we went there last winter (walked last mile to get in). Neighbour had a new panda 4x4 - loved it.

Skip to 2:30 below to pass over the usual fifth gear dribble,...


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#19 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 05, 2010, 11:40:28 am
Just to add to Stubbs' Yorkshire reliables...

Two quality dryballs at the cliff:
Pistol whip and Making shapes.

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#20 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 05, 2010, 09:34:28 pm
Off topic a bit here...

My mate's got a Fiat Panda and it's like being in a 4x4. Amazing.

Narrow wheels, great in the snow.

Has he actually got a Fiat Panda 4x4 ?

Awesome vehicle and and très populaire dans Les Alpes in the 90's. I can only imagine what the modern version is like.

A friend of mine had someone try to hotwire his (non 4x4) Panda in Aix. Really smashed the ignition up.
So he wired the ignition to the heating leads and you had to have that switched on, then turn on the windscreen wipers to start it.

Made it unstealable, no need for a key, and that thing was really handy for bouncing up rough tracks in the Luberon in search of undiscovered rock. Or firewood.


T_B

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#21 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 06, 2010, 10:00:12 am
Mint 400 at Froggatt has a nice snow platform under it. The traverse off to the right at the break is a little bit scary but OK. Yesterday, it was too wet on the ledge above Oedipus/Narcissus to reverse the first pitch of Valkyrie.

Snow is in good condition to shovel at the mo. Loads of snow below Long John's l-hand and Polyp Piece if someone wanted to sort out otherwise tricky landings for when the dripping subsides.

Only other thing dry at Froggatt yesterday was Chequers Groove. Anyone have beta on this?

Any other shovelling/climbing get done Ulysses?  ::)?

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#22 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 06, 2010, 10:37:04 am
Almscliff: The usuals:
Demon Wall Roof problems (as long as the snow isn't melting, otherwise you'll get dripped on)
Crucifix Traverse
Keel (minus top out) Think the haul links were climbable too.
Virgin: Cherry Falls, Cherry Falls RH, Ramp Problem, Gaskins 8A
Black wall problems: Dreamtime, BW Dyno and Blackhead should be OK (Blackhead is really good, but scary, must go back to finish).
Jess's Roof.

Add to that Wall of Horrors problems and that awesome slappy problem on the slope between Wall of Horrors and Grape strain.

Krank

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#23 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 09, 2010, 09:58:18 am
went up to Ramshaw last night and brushed off the Magic Roundabout boulders and Force 9, they should all avoid any run off from melting snow this weekend. Will be trying to flatten off the landing on California Screaming tomorrow so you can avoid sliding down onto the A53.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2010, 10:22:14 am by Krank »

T_B

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#24 Re: Snow proof probs list
December 10, 2010, 09:25:56 am
Will be trying to flatten off the landing on California Screaming tomorrow so you can avoid sliding down onto the A53.

Great problem that  ;D

 

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