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North Wales Bouldering (Read 226855 times)

Stu Littlefair

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#400 North Wales Bouldering
March 08, 2013, 08:48:51 am
To be honest, I think Simon's tying himself up in knots because he wants the guidebook to predict the future. Two people have done this problem, with two different sequences at very different grades.

In the long run, one or the other, or a hybrid of both will become seen as the normal sequence, and that will set both the grade and the description. Which one wins will depend on how morpho barrows' sequence is I would have thought - almost everyone who can use the TC kneebar does, after all.

So, if you need to put something in the guide now, there should be no problem with it being imprecise, since that's all it can be until more ascents define the norms. No need for two grades, debating what they are, which comes first etc. note that alternative sequences exist which are easier for some and let time work it out.

a dense loner

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#401 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 08, 2013, 09:14:22 am
The grade should be 8B+ since malcs a normal sized climber, Alex is massive. Thats how things are graded. Everybody apart from the tall know it's easier to do most problems if you're tall. This is a universally acknowledged fact

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#402 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 08, 2013, 09:47:17 am
Dense that is so wise I can't even find a combination of UKB smileys to do it justice...

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#403 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 08, 2013, 05:08:05 pm
To be honest, I think Simon's tying himself up in knots because he wants the guidebook to predict the future. Two people have done this problem, with two different sequences at very different grades.

In the long run, one or the other, or a hybrid of both will become seen as the normal sequence, and that will set both the grade and the description. Which one wins will depend on how morpho barrows' sequence is I would have thought - almost everyone who can use the TC kneebar does, after all.

So, if you need to put something in the guide now, there should be no problem with it being imprecise, since that's all it can be until more ascents define the norms. No need for two grades, debating what they are, which comes first etc. note that alternative sequences exist which are easier for some and let time work it out.

Nodder made a similar point last night  - we don't know yet if anybody will follow Alex's lead or what the eventual norm will be.

petejh

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#404 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 08, 2013, 05:35:02 pm
Don't forget it should be bi-lingual too. Can't upset any Welshies who might not understand what 'knee pad' means.

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#405 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 08, 2013, 10:30:33 pm
Don't forget it should be bi-lingual too. Can't upset any Welshies who might not understand what 'knee pad' means.

31 Pilgrimage 8B+***
Prawf ffitrwydd eithriadol yn dilyn y trywydd hawddaf ( ar wahan i ddiweddglo Beaver Cleaver ) o gornel chwith i'r silff uchel ar y dde. Mae defnyddio pad penglin yn haeddu 8A+/B
[Malcolm Smith 07.04]

Is that ok? ;D

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#406 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 08, 2013, 11:24:40 pm
Da iawn!

Si - there's your solution - for any problems that have 'issues' just write whatever you want in Welsh, they'll never suspect anything. That's just reminded me how we used Welsh over the radios in Bosnia to stop the Serbs listening in on our communications. Pretty low-tech. 30 year-old radios from the cold war not being particularly difficult to eavesdrop, they're better now. 'During the war' etc...

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#407 Lead Rain 7B
March 09, 2013, 06:00:17 pm
Lead Rain 7B
9 March 2013, 12:00 am

New traverse line at Ruthin Escarpment

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#408 Pilgrimage repeat film released
March 09, 2013, 06:00:17 pm
Pilgrimage repeat film released
9 March 2013, 12:00 am

Footage of second ascent

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#409 Roadkill 7A+
March 19, 2013, 12:00:16 am
Roadkill 7A+
18 March 2013, 12:00 am

Roadside Llyn Gwynant boulder developed

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#410 Madame Allure 8B
March 22, 2013, 12:00:04 pm
Madame Allure 8B
22 March 2013, 12:00 am

Robins completes another major line in the Ogwen

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#411 Billionaire's Bulge 7A
March 22, 2013, 06:00:04 pm
Billionaire's Bulge 7A
22 March 2013, 12:00 am

Straight up line at Ruthin Escarpment

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#412 Sunset Sit 7C+
March 26, 2013, 12:00:25 am
Sunset Sit 7C+
25 March 2013, 12:00 am

Powerful addition to Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#413 March 2013 Boulder of the Month
March 26, 2013, 12:00:26 am
March 2013 Boulder of the Month
25 March 2013, 12:00 am

The Glued Diamond of Porth Ysgo

Source: North Wales Bouldering


fatneck

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#414 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 26, 2013, 02:45:05 pm
Nice as ever... Bumped into Big G in the Spar in 'Beris on Sat and encouraged him that his BOTM entries were enjoyed by many. He seemed surprised and pleased in equal measure and pledged to continue his explorations :)

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#415 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 26, 2013, 02:53:33 pm
That looks amazing/terrifying!

Pantontino

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#416 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 26, 2013, 03:19:40 pm
That looks amazing/terrifying!

I'm sort of breaking the Boulder of the Month golden rule (no climbers, just rocks), but couldn't resist posting this:



I went up a couple of times but couldn't quite summon the full commitment that was required to reach that lofty perch on top of the block. Would be a cool place to sit if you could make it up there.

r-man

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#417 Re: North Wales Bouldering
March 26, 2013, 04:02:01 pm
I wouldn't want to pull on to that!

Actually, it would be great to see more shots of G on his discoveries, gives a good sense of scale - both of the rock and the obsession! And that's not in any way derogatory - the web is full of so much repetitive hyperbole about king lines and awesome movement, but we all know the true path to enlightenment is paved with obscure esoterica...

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#418 Roof of a Baby Buddha access issue
April 05, 2013, 07:00:06 pm
Roof of a Baby Buddha access issue
5 April 2013, 12:00 am

Don't drive up the forestry road

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#419 Join the Dots 8A
April 12, 2013, 01:00:09 pm
Join the Dots 8A
12 April 2013, 12:00 am

Tom Williams strikes at Pantymwyn

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#420 The Ysgo Diamond 6B!
April 12, 2013, 01:00:12 pm
The Ysgo Diamond 6B!
12 April 2013, 12:00 am

Boulder of the Month feature conquered!!!

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#421 Grey House 7C+
April 15, 2013, 07:00:04 pm
Grey House 7C+
15 April 2013, 12:00 am

Punchy addition left of Roof of a Baby Buddha

Source: North Wales Bouldering


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#422 April 2013 Boulder of the Month
April 23, 2013, 01:00:04 pm
April 2013 Boulder of the Month
23 April 2013, 12:00 am

Gesail dolerite beauties!

Source: North Wales Bouldering


fatneck

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#423 Re: North Wales Bouldering
April 25, 2013, 09:21:48 am
Quote from: Big G
To walk the broad wind-rocked ridge westwards from the crest of Craig y Gesail is to be confronted by the scale of the place, Cwmstradllyn and Cwm Pennant scooping north, to the south; the sprawl of Porthmadog and west; the untold fable of Llŷn.

This is the domain of the raven, the buzzard and even the red kite; each of them scanning the vastness with a furious eye for detail...just as we should.

Genius...   :clap2:

SA Chris

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#424 Re: North Wales Bouldering
April 25, 2013, 09:40:06 am
Poetry man, sheer poetry. Where can wad points be forwarded to?

 

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