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training addicts (Read 12168 times)

Bubba

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#25 training addicts
January 08, 2004, 02:17:16 pm
Ya'all should watch the Jared Roth pro-tips video...

dave

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#26 training addicts
January 08, 2004, 02:21:30 pm
you forget i already have jared roth-style "sick crimping strength" (well sort of :oops: ), its openhanding shit i'm training on a mingerboard innit.

T.H.

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#27 training addicts
January 08, 2004, 02:51:31 pm
How did you get sick crimp strength Dave?

I find open hand so much easier, but sometimes you've just got to crimp, and then I'm f*cked.

dave

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#28 training addicts
January 08, 2004, 02:56:11 pm
basically the first time i ever bouldered indoor seriously was at uni at the berghaus wall - 1990 bencrete featured wall covered in first joint egdes and little else! my limit was about english 5b/c when i started going there and finish up at about 6b when i left, and habbits/stregths gained at the stage of development is hard to shake off!

T.H.

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#29 training addicts
January 08, 2004, 02:58:40 pm
Ok.

I reckon I might scoot out of the uni library now and get myself to my local timber yard.  Make myself a few 1/2 inch rungs with different amounts of indentation, then see if I can't get myself some crimping action.

Give me a few months and I'll report back  (see if I can't nail that one arm front-lever while I'm at it).

dobbin

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#30 training addicts
January 08, 2004, 06:36:50 pm
To be honest chaps I would argue that if you are strong enough to be thinking about dead hanging on one hand you should really be doing it locked too!

Gollum locks at his neck and hangs for interminably long amounts of time - sometimes holding weights!

T.H.

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#31 training addicts
January 08, 2004, 08:06:54 pm
I've got two problems with that.

Firstly, I find hanging the kind of rung we're talking about a lot easier when locked, at any angle from the neck down.  To me it seems common sense to train it the hardest way I can, then when I get into an easier position it'll be even easier, something like that anyway.

Secondly, locking is mostly about the biceps and lats, which are much stronger muscles than the finger flexors when hanging on to a crappy rung.  By locking on a crap rung, your fingers are going to fail a long time before your biceps and lats will, meaning they're not getting a proper work out.  The finger flexors are much more efficient when holding a bar, so I train locks on a bar instead where I can add much more weight to myself.

 

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