Anubis winter

[Frost]

check out Dave Macleods blog. in a running race everyone's walking backwards compared to him. E8 in winter is world news.

[SA Chris]

http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/

Links are good.

Fuck me. Not like a fat column of ice hanging down it to make it any easier.

[dave]

spot the difference:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S4fOZAzVCGI/AAAAAAAACH8/7RjU4GpdLfU/s1600-h/DSC003612.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S4fOeJlNxeI/AAAAAAAACIM/W7bgohodAo8/s1600-h/Anubis+Cubby+Images.jpg

I think he's using axes in one of the shots. otherwise I'm stumped. 

[SA Chris]

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S4fOWURuuCI/AAAAAAAACHs/qklCYvdlgSs/s400/anubistopo.jpg

Looks pretty wintery to me - easier to climb with tools than without.

You getting all UKC now and questioning winter effics dave?

[slack---line]

spot the difference:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S4fOZAzVCGI/AAAAAAAACH8/7RjU4GpdLfU/s1600-h/DSC003612.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S4fOeJlNxeI/AAAAAAAACIM/W7bgohodAo8/s1600-h/Anubis+Cubby+Images.jpg

I think he's using axes in one of the shots. otherwise I'm stumped. 

More clothes on in the first one too 

[chris_j_s]

Tell me the majority of it doesn't look in condition though - lest you forget this is a mixed route!

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S4fOWURuuCI/AAAAAAAACHs/qklCYvdlgSs/s1600-h/anubistopo.jpg

[dave]

You getting all UKC now and questioning winter effics dave?

Hey its all aidclimbing to me.

[Fiend]

More winter news, what is this UKMountaineering or something etc etc bleh.

Could be easier in winter nick, two big jugs all the way instead of small crimps and crozzles 

[petejh]

Holy shit - awesome fucking effort 

More winter news, what is this UKMountaineering or something etc etc bleh.

I'm sure normal service will be resumed soon, I think it's pretty funny how ukb has gone winter ledge-shuffling this week. It's a broad church and all that.

What all you boulderers and sport-climbers maybe don't realise about hard mixed is you have the perfect fitness to excel at it, if you wanted to. Steep M10 on tools is like 7c sport (ok I've only climbed 7b+ and M9 but it 'aint that much of a leap of imagination), do it on gear with a safe fall and you'd be at the very top of the game. Likewise M5 with no gear 

[Pantontino]

More winter news, what is this UKMountaineering or something etc etc bleh.

As someone who has started and contributed to numerous chuffing threads on UKB I am mystified by your jibe about other people talking about winter climbing on here. It's all climbing is it not, or have I missed something? (i.e. is it only 'climbing' if you say it is?)

[Pantontino]

check out Dave Macleods blog. in a running race everyone's walking backwards compared to him. E8 in winter is world news.

MacLeod is so far ahead of the pack - this is just mind blowing!

[Fiend]

Hi Pantonius. It was just cos they were mocking me about posting a so-called "Cocktalk-style" thread in the main forum....UKB is a broad church including styles of climbing AND styles of forum threads...

[Johnny Brown]

Shit dog, impressive. I need to get some better gear.

[Teaboy]

Is that all it'll take?

 

[chummer]

to fiend....you seem to take the chuffing stance when it comes to bouldering(ie you're shite but quite keen to an extent but it's the trad you live for) and the boulderers stance when it comes to winter,( ie non participant) when surely winter climbing is the ultimate form of chuffing..........no need to reply, consider it an expose of your want to consume and conform. Oh dear, it appears i souldn't have had that last pint...never mind the kebab..n o doulb yopu give me a big back lash and a thorough puntering but i don't give a fuck. E8 winter ascent, fuck a fucking duck, does.nt matter which way you look at it...what a fucking leg end respect goes well and truely out to the man who won't evn buy that fuckin trifle in his local spar.
remeber everyone, don't post when you're pissed.

[petejh]

A fucking men

[thesiger]

More winter news, what is this UKMountaineering or something etc etc bleh.

If it helps, I suspect the new owners would draw the line at charidee ascents of "Kili" and the like.

[Fiend]

I knew the insect overloads could be trusted.

Just hope we don't end up with "What winter nick is the Ben in" in the conditions forum 

[SA Chris]

Could be easier in winter nick, two big jugs all the way instead of small crimps and crozzles 

And how about the glassy smears with crampons on?? Without knowing the route this is a super UKC comment.

[Fiend]

Nice one Chris, it was actually humourous but nevermind.

[thesiger]

Just hope we don't end up with "What winter nick is the Ben in" in the conditions forum 

Keep in mind that winter conditions need not necessarily pertain to aid-chuffing/ dry-humping/ etc (ie whatever mysterious sport it is that is under discussion in this thread). In fact a few weeks back UKB appeared to be a snowboarding site ...

[cowboyhat]

Dave McLeod: Congratulations on your Fantastic Achievement.



I'm not sure what it is or what is good about it but you're a nice lad so well done anyway.

[SA Chris]

Nice one Chris, it was actually humourous but nevermind.

Intended to be humorous.

Given your current track record it's hard to tell. Nice one yourself though.

[Jaspersharpe]

Do you want to borrow a spade Fiend. 

[Jim]

don't think he needs it, maybe a bigMac when he gets to the bottom tho

[Johnny Brown]

A man moves to scotland. In winter. He refuses to winter climb. The man is a fool.

[Fiend]

Skiing's pretty good though.

Moving to Scotland in winter has put me off winter climbing more, it has no appeal whatsoever. An added bonus is that it's physically impossible for me to do the walk-ins too.

Anyway,  thanks to you lot going on about something which didn't need a reply... So has Dave Mac given it a Big Number yet??


Edit: no chillax, it is as far from the truth as possible. As utterly false as saying someone is a fool for moving to the Peak in summer and not wanting to climb sport climb limestone there.

[Jaspersharpe]

Edit: no chillax, it is as far from the truth as possible.  But as utterly false correct as saying someone is a fool for moving to the Peak in summer and not wanting to climb sport climb limestone there boulder on Kudos Wall.

  

[SA Chris]

http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/03/tempest-in-teacup.html

Then he "onsights" Tempest. To be honest way he did it sounds scarier than running it out.

[Johnny Brown]

Sounds crazy doesn't it. He must have been gripped already to not consider just getting it done.

[chris05]

I love the fact that Dave's response to all the armchair critics (i.e. cocktalk) isn't to enter into an argument with them but instead to get on with some amazing climbing. Impressive stuff.

[chris_j_s]

Indeed, amazing effort.

It seems that there is no arguing with that knobend Haston, who just repeats the same thing ad nauseum regardless of others reasoned arguments, so this is the best thing Dave can do really.

In fairness, most on ukc seem to support Dave.

[chris05]

yes you are right they do, I'm falling into the trap of slagging ukc when ever possible (a popular and worthwile pastime i think!). My point was supposed to be about the amount of time spent discussing/criticising other people's climbing when ideally we should all just get out climbing more...... however i then realised that I am involved in one of these discussions and will now shut up....

[Rocksteady]

yes you are right they do, I'm falling into the trap of slagging ukc when ever possible (a popular and worthwile pastime i think!). My point was supposed to be about the amount of time spent discussing/criticising other people's climbing when ideally we should all just get out climbing more...... however i then realised that I am involved in one of these discussions and will now shut up....

Making a point on a climbing forum a point you've made (on a climbing forum) about people making points on a climbing forum? So postmodern... meta-chat. Nice. 

Respect to Dave. Establishing a very hard route in summer then making the second ascent as a super-hard first winter ascent is damn cool. 
I'm sure he wouldn't want to trash it for future ascentionists so I think the whole discussion is a bit of a storm in a teacup. Very apt to onsight Tempest as a response. Love his beasty downclimb skills.

[shark]

Very apt to onsight Tempest as a response.

Was it a response? was there a causal link? or was it that he was psyched for it anyway while it was in-condition as I think they call it in iceaxaineering circles.

[Rocksteady]

Very apt to onsight Tempest as a response.

Was it a response? was there a causal link? or was it that he was psyched for it anyway while it was in-condition as I think they call it in iceaxaineering circles.

Who knows the mind of MacLeod? But whether Anubis was 'in condition' is the cause of the debate - getting on another route and onsighting in similar conditions can be interpreted as a response of sorts.

Though conversationally it would be a bit like:
MacLeod: I just crushed a this hard winter route that I established as a summer route.
Haters: Oh but it wasn't in condition meeeeeeeeeew x 300
MacLeod: I just crushed this hard winter route too, after downclimbing nearly the whole thing to preserve the onsight.

[chris_j_s]

Though conversationally it would be a bit like:
MacLeod: I just crushed a this hard winter route that I established as a summer route.
Haters: Oh but it wasn't in condition meeeeeeeeeew x 300
MacLeod: I just crushed this hard winter route too, after downclimbing nearly the whole thing to preserve the onsight.

Haters: Yeah, but you watched Neil top roping it 9 years ago so you lost the onsight. Plus you downclimbed to the ground so you well and truly blew it. Here have some rime tinted spectacles from my blog. 

[Jaspersharpe]

Stevie would be on here offering you out for a smashed face if we hadn't upset him so much that he refuses to post on here any more.