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Wrist "popping out" on slopers (Read 15559 times)

bobber

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Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 08, 2010, 09:02:19 pm
When i hang a lot of weight on round slopers i get a weird feeling in my wrist like its popping out a bit.
This doesn't actually affect my ability to hold on to the sloper but feels weird and im worried that if i carry on something horrific might happen.
At first i thought that this was only occuring on a certain type of plastic hold and then i experienced it outside on captain hook at stanage plantation. it comes just after holding the first slap and its a bit off putting for the next one.

Anyone had similar problems? or have any suggestions?

Im was going to start with wrist curls to hopefully build up some strength

Houdini

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#1 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 08, 2010, 09:19:22 pm
I had this for years.  I figured it was because I always crimped and the wrists couldn't deal w/ the straight load.

Using the powerball helped greatly.


namnok

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#2 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 08, 2010, 09:22:04 pm
i get this at times and depends on how i've approached the sloper:  pop, slap at or static, but generally happens

i just tape up my wrist and this usually helps it from happening again that session

hairich

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#3 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 08, 2010, 09:32:50 pm
i have had this for years too.feels very weired when it happens but it just the giders adjusting into position.can feel a bit like its really gonna twang but its always been ok with a bit of warming up with a stress ball

tomtom

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#4 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 08, 2010, 09:48:03 pm
I get this from time to time. Was never really sure what/why/when it happened... 
But since getting a beastmaker recently I noticed the slopers seem to hit the spot quite well - and since I've started using it (only had it a few weeks) its become less frequent...
Its intially quite worrying but never seems to leave any long term harm (though can feel weird/bad for 10-15 min)

bobber

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#5 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 08, 2010, 10:12:01 pm
Cheers. This is reassuring. Beastmaker is on the way so guess ill get a powerball as well.

Jim

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#6 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 08, 2010, 11:22:49 pm
This only happens to me on one problem. You've guessed it, captain hook.
It really hurts me and I only get a few goes at the problem. thankfully I've ticked it so never have to try it again. The best bet is to get some wide tape and strap your wrist(s).
Never had any trouble on anything else

Andy B

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#7 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 09, 2010, 09:06:20 am
I've had something similar for years, except when mine clicks out, I can't put any power through it, and have to unweight it to change it's position slightly (usually put more of a bend in the wrist) or just drop off. If I try to just pull through on it I get pain in the wrist for a couple of weeks after. For the first few years tight, wide strapping used to sort it enough to pull on the problem hold, but this has become less and less effective, and my wrist clicks much more commonly now, though mostly only on grit or in font (only once that I can think of on limestone). Straight slopers with little wrist bend, like those on the beastmakers don't cause it to pop out though, it's usually slopers round some sort of bulge, or big slopers where you hold the back. I've dropped, or made missions out of, loads of problems because of this, so I'd try and get it sorted sooner rather than later (says the man who's done nothing except carry industrial rolls of gaffer tape with him everywhere). Ray told me that powerballing really helped her wrist, but when I tried, it just aggrivates it for me.

Bernard Jefferies

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#8 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 09, 2010, 09:09:13 am
Yep I used to get this all the time too.  For me I think it was my wrists adapting to getting back into climbing again, reverse wrist curls and warming up more thoroughly may help.  If it gets too bad I would rest it for a bit or try not to aggravate it

rodma

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#9 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 09, 2010, 01:22:09 pm
I've had something similar for years, except when mine clicks out, I can't put any power through it, and have to unweight it to change it's position slightly (usually put more of a bend in the wrist) or just drop off. If I try to just pull through on it I get pain in the wrist for a couple of weeks after. For the first few years tight, wide strapping used to sort it enough to pull on the problem hold, but this has become less and less effective, and my wrist clicks much more commonly now, though mostly only on grit or in font (only once that I can think of on limestone). Straight slopers with little wrist bend, like those on the beastmakers don't cause it to pop out though, it's usually slopers round some sort of bulge, or big slopers where you hold the back. I've dropped, or made missions out of, loads of problems because of this, so I'd try and get it sorted sooner rather than later (says the man who's done nothing except carry industrial rolls of gaffer tape with him everywhere). Ray told me that powerballing really helped her wrist, but when I tried, it just aggrivates it for me.

 :agree: about everthing you just said, including the powerball (mine lives in the bottom of the toybox now).

Andy B

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#10 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 09, 2010, 01:44:42 pm
Do you have any wisdom on things that have helped you cope with it, either in the short term of sorting it enough to pull on a certain hold to get a problem done, or more long term ways of improving it?

rodma

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#11 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 09, 2010, 07:28:16 pm
Do you have any wisdom on things that have helped you cope with it, either in the short term of sorting it enough to pull on a certain hold to get a problem done, or more long term ways of improving it?

In the short term (several years) I stopped pulling on anything that put my wrist at any angle at all, otherwise I got a sharp reminder (like Monty Pythons at Kyloe, totally out of bounds).

These days it's ok-ish, but I can only really have one or two goes at anything that feels awkward. I am admittedly piss weak on slopers though, I can only just manage repeaters on the 30degree slopers on the beastie and can't get anywhere near the 45's

I'm not very good at doing rehab of any kind, so got bored very quickly of theraband excercises.

Sorry I can't be of any help, this one is totally out of my league  :(

New Jersey

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#12 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 10, 2010, 09:28:15 am
Hello im new, just registered

I get this also when using certain slopers.

Sounds obvious, but I found wrist curls helped

Ru

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#13 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 10, 2010, 09:43:53 am
I've had something similar for years, except when mine clicks out, I can't put any power through it, and have to unweight it to change it's position slightly (usually put more of a bend in the wrist) or just drop off.

I also have had this for years. It mostly affects me indoors on big wide slopers that you hold or semi guppy at a funny angle. The wrist clicks out of place and I pretty much have to drop off and wiggle it a bit to make sure it's back in. Frustrating.

Durbs

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#14 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 10, 2010, 10:36:02 am
I think I get a simialr thing - feels like it's un-poppping, and hurst when you come off the hold as opposed to actually during?
Always on slopers...

Stubbs

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#15 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 10, 2010, 10:43:36 am
Right I get this too, fairly occasionally, that Monty Python's hold is definitely a one for it.  I wonder how many people have something similar?  My left wrist is worse, but that's because I f*cked it a bit falling off my skateboard too much...

Andy B

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#16 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 10, 2010, 05:58:10 pm
Will everybody please stop saying that they have this too. It's ruining one of my main excuses for dropping problems.

New Jersey, Are your wrist curls pulling the back of your hand towards your arm (reverse curls I think?) or pulling your palm towards your arm. (this is probably an academic question as, like Rodma, I'm not so hot on Rehab, or for that matter sustaining any training that isn't climbing).

New Jersey

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#17 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
February 11, 2010, 04:05:52 pm
Will everybody please stop saying that they have this too. It's ruining one of my main excuses for dropping problems.

New Jersey, Are your wrist curls pulling the back of your hand towards your arm (reverse curls I think?) or pulling your palm towards your arm. (this is probably an academic question as, like Rodma, I'm not so hot on Rehab, or for that matter sustaining any training that isn't climbing).

Yes exactly as you described

clgladiator

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#18 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
March 22, 2010, 11:05:57 am
Yes exactly as you described

So both types? I ALSO have this problem, didnt worry bout it too much till it stopped me from doing a problem a few days ok  >:(.

rginns

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#19 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
April 22, 2014, 04:06:59 pm
Other than wrist curls does anyone do any other exercises to strengthen the wrist?
Apart from the obvious... (fnar fnar)

I've been suffering from weak wrists for years and recently had to stop climbing for 6 weeks because of it... :thumbsdown:

Moo

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#20 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
April 22, 2014, 06:55:27 pm
doing a shit load of deadhanging on the easier slopers on the beastmaker with progressive intensity stopped this from happening for me. It took a while to build up, though it has been a permanent fix.

cheque

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#21 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
April 22, 2014, 07:08:19 pm
I had chronically weak and unstable wrists when I first started climbing and I used a Powerball (you may recall a pretty special thread on here about it) until I was string enough to do wrist curls.

cha1n

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#22 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
April 22, 2014, 09:19:01 pm
I've had this problem, or certainly a similar one since I began climbing.

I never found out exactly what causes it but it's definitely linked to my ring finger tendons. I suspected that it was lumpy tendons not sliding through their sheaths properly in certain positions but was just a guess.

I now recognise the feeling before it's going to pop and just stop pulling if I think it will. It's worse for me on 2 finger pockets (ring+middle finger only) and the position of the pinky makes a big difference on if the popping occurs. Keeping the pink hyper-extended helps a little (take a look at dave graham on 3 finger slopers and you'll see that he has his pinky hyper-extended).

If a sloper focuses more force on the back 3 fingers I am more likely to get the popping. If you look at your wrist and try to flex and extend the ring finger you should see movement in the area of the wrist where the popping happens.

For me it's gradually got better over the years and happens to me less and less nowadays. I tend to use my front 2 for pockets to help prevent it but I'm probably just causing an imbalance. There must be a better way!

cha1n

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#23 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
April 22, 2014, 09:28:05 pm
Oh and having the hands hyper-extended at the wrist makes the popping twice as likely to happen, so avoid that if you can!

Martin.B.

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#24 Re: Wrist "popping out" on slopers
April 22, 2014, 10:05:19 pm
I also have this problem, seems to happen most when hyper-extended or footless. T Crack really flares it up on the left wrist making the campus move super painfull. It seemed to happen alot more than it does now maybe its due to better wrist strength or just knowing when its going to happen so I back off. Really puts me off highballs because if it happens at the top im screwed lol.

Not really come across may people with this problem so im going to get onto the wrist curles/beast maker and powerball and see what happens and post results, may take a while....

 

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