Author Topic: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties  (Read 964 times)

Offline Steph

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Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« on: February 08, 2010, 06:40:16 pm »
Off to Fontainebleau in March (wahoo!!!!) and looking to hunt down some 7a+/7b problems.  I'm a bit of a midget at 5'4 so anything with too big a span (and big manly jumps) are out. 

Love roofy & straight-up stuff; think slabs are evil.  Seem to be a bit of a shortage of 7bs, maybe I'm just not looking hard enough?? 

Recommendations welcome...

Offline Richie Crouch

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2010, 08:18:43 pm »
Straight up stuff: Impasse Du Hasard (cuisiniere); Ratatouille (cuisiniere)
Roof: Beatle Juice (Cuisiniere); Jeu de Toit (Sabots); Zen (Sabots)

All decent problems I recall around the 7a/+ range and not dynamic (apart from the last move on ratatouille)

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2010, 08:38:04 pm »
vandal left hand 7a+. 7b roof at apremont envers, next to 7c
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2010, 01:35:57 am »
Impasse? are you kidding... I think the first move is nails if you're *cough* tiny.

Buoux, Frankenjura, The Peak, spot on. Margalef, Magic Wood, Albarracin all soft as a big fluffy marshmallow. F.A.C.T. Oh and Jaspersharpe is still wrong about Malc. F.A.C.T.

Offline The Sausage

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2010, 07:53:34 am »
Judging by what Vickie has done/tried (she's 5'4". I think)...

Bleau's art - La mervielle
Sitting Bull - Apremont (actually, might be crazy horse. The 7b one, photo in 7s & 8s 1st edition)
Holey Moley
Festin de Pierre
Graviton
Lapin et Canard (both the 7a & 7a+ versions)
She's been pretty close to surplomb des Coquilles
Beetlejuice has a very big move on it.

Also try The Joker, L'Abbatoir

Hope that helps
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Offline BenF

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2010, 09:17:20 am »
Impasse? are you kidding... I think the first move is nails if you're *cough* tiny.


Yeah, I can't believe Crouch suggested this, its gotta be well harder for the short.  Or at least it's well easier for the tall.
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Offline iain

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2010, 09:26:13 am »

I was going to post something similar, although I'm not as short as Steph (sorry) bring on the recommendations, maybe up to 7b+ if I can climb anything like I do in my dreams, (or does that sound wrong ...)

Anyway, more please
 :)

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2010, 09:27:24 am »
i can believe ritchie suggested it, every suggestion he gives to someone is utter nonsense. What goes on in that head of yours crouch?  :wall: ;D
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline BenF

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2010, 09:36:52 am »
i can believe ritchie suggested it, every suggestion he gives to someone is utter nonsense. What goes on in that head of yours crouch?  :wall: ;D


You know what Dense, I nearly said exactly that too.  Like when Crouch said "it doesn't matter what rockshoe you wear until you climb harder than 7c".  This from a man employed to sell rockshoes.
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Offline Jim

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2010, 11:02:12 am »
I'd love to see him do deliverance in boreals
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Offline SA Chris

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2010, 11:05:35 am »
What goes on in that head of yours crouch? 


Surely this is a question that no-one really wants to know the answer to.
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Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2010, 11:07:17 am »
Carnage? The first move is a big one but I'd say its a matter of power more than lank. Leah did it and she can't be that tall?
Buoux, Frankenjura, The Peak, spot on. Margalef, Magic Wood, Albarracin all soft as a big fluffy marshmallow. F.A.C.T. Oh and Jaspersharpe is still wrong about Malc. F.A.C.T.

Offline Jim

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2010, 11:09:49 am »
yes but its not 7a+ or 7b
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Offline nik at work

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2010, 11:16:12 am »
I'd say Carnage is perhaps a bit harder for the short.
Sitting Bull is nails for the short or I'm missing something, Crazy Horse is a better suggestion.

Has anybody said Magic Bus yet? It still gets 7B+ I think but soft at it and fine for stumps (as long as you don't get sucked into a lanksters sequence)

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2010, 11:47:35 am »
yes but its not 7a+ or 7b


Fair enough, If you're strong though it could easily be on the cards as its basic for Font.

Has anybody said Magic Bus yet? It still gets 7B+ I think but soft at it and fine for stumps (as long as you don't get sucked into a lanksters sequence)


I did exactly that and it felt 8b.
Buoux, Frankenjura, The Peak, spot on. Margalef, Magic Wood, Albarracin all soft as a big fluffy marshmallow. F.A.C.T. Oh and Jaspersharpe is still wrong about Malc. F.A.C.T.

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2010, 12:20:13 pm »
What about Lapin au Canard at Hautes Plaines, one of the exits is a touch harder I believe? Its a roof.
Buoux, Frankenjura, The Peak, spot on. Margalef, Magic Wood, Albarracin all soft as a big fluffy marshmallow. F.A.C.T. Oh and Jaspersharpe is still wrong about Malc. F.A.C.T.

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2010, 12:21:54 pm »
that was alrready one of sausage's recommendations paul :rtfm:
magic bus is not easy if you're normal, small is piss tall is piss, inbetween feels hideous
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #17 on: February 09, 2010, 12:24:45 pm »
Take it as a second then baldy. (its not raining here you see, in fact its quite sunny so I'm doing other things  ;))

Gargantoit? I don't see that in here. Excellent problem, a bit harder if you're short as your heel will be of less use earlier on. Again, a roof. Only 7a so maybe I need to find an extra plus.

Oliver Twist, Rocher Greau

La Baliene, Petit Bois
Buoux, Frankenjura, The Peak, spot on. Margalef, Magic Wood, Albarracin all soft as a big fluffy marshmallow. F.A.C.T. Oh and Jaspersharpe is still wrong about Malc. F.A.C.T.

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #18 on: February 09, 2010, 12:27:44 pm »
well here its shit shit fuckin shit. am off to meet fiend at mcd's shortly
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Johnny Brown

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #19 on: February 09, 2010, 12:30:36 pm »
Pensees Cachees
L'angle Parfait
Master Edge
El Poussif

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #20 on: February 09, 2010, 12:32:36 pm »
El Poussah (you can add an extra move if you're desperate for the 7b tick, I wouldn't bother).
Buoux, Frankenjura, The Peak, spot on. Margalef, Magic Wood, Albarracin all soft as a big fluffy marshmallow. F.A.C.T. Oh and Jaspersharpe is still wrong about Malc. F.A.C.T.

Offline Jim

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #21 on: February 09, 2010, 12:53:45 pm »
L'angle Parfait
Master Edge
El Poussif

these are fucking nails!
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Offline rodma

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #22 on: February 09, 2010, 01:02:12 pm »
Biceps Mou and Pince Mi are both fine if you're small and are conveniently next to one another.

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #23 on: February 09, 2010, 05:56:28 pm »
rodma's on money there. our midget friend who's with us loves them probs, at cuvier. gotta like pinches tho
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Doylo

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #24 on: February 09, 2010, 06:17:30 pm »
well here its shit shit fuckin shit. am off to meet fiend at mcd's shortly


Keep it together big guy. Steam wank will see you right