Author Topic: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties  (Read 1220 times)

Offline Steph

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Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« on: February 08, 2010, 06:40:16 pm »
Off to Fontainebleau in March (wahoo!!!!) and looking to hunt down some 7a+/7b problems.  I'm a bit of a midget at 5'4 so anything with too big a span (and big manly jumps) are out. 

Love roofy & straight-up stuff; think slabs are evil.  Seem to be a bit of a shortage of 7bs, maybe I'm just not looking hard enough?? 

Recommendations welcome...

Offline Richie Crouch

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2010, 08:18:43 pm »
Straight up stuff: Impasse Du Hasard (cuisiniere); Ratatouille (cuisiniere)
Roof: Beatle Juice (Cuisiniere); Jeu de Toit (Sabots); Zen (Sabots)

All decent problems I recall around the 7a/+ range and not dynamic (apart from the last move on ratatouille)

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2010, 08:38:04 pm »
vandal left hand 7a+. 7b roof at apremont envers, next to 7c
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2010, 01:35:57 am »
Impasse? are you kidding... I think the first move is nails if you're *cough* tiny.

...at least I don't wear any Lycra

Offline The Sausage

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2010, 07:53:34 am »
Judging by what Vickie has done/tried (she's 5'4". I think)...

Bleau's art - La mervielle
Sitting Bull - Apremont (actually, might be crazy horse. The 7b one, photo in 7s & 8s 1st edition)
Holey Moley
Festin de Pierre
Graviton
Lapin et Canard (both the 7a & 7a+ versions)
She's been pretty close to surplomb des Coquilles
Beetlejuice has a very big move on it.

Also try The Joker, L'Abbatoir

Hope that helps
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Offline BenF

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2010, 09:17:20 am »
Impasse? are you kidding... I think the first move is nails if you're *cough* tiny.

Yeah, I can't believe Crouch suggested this, its gotta be well harder for the short.  Or at least it's well easier for the tall.
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Offline iain

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2010, 09:26:13 am »

I was going to post something similar, although I'm not as short as Steph (sorry) bring on the recommendations, maybe up to 7b+ if I can climb anything like I do in my dreams, (or does that sound wrong ...)

Anyway, more please
 :)

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2010, 09:27:24 am »
i can believe ritchie suggested it, every suggestion he gives to someone is utter nonsense. What goes on in that head of yours crouch?  :wall: ;D
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline BenF

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2010, 09:36:52 am »
i can believe ritchie suggested it, every suggestion he gives to someone is utter nonsense. What goes on in that head of yours crouch?  :wall: ;D

You know what Dense, I nearly said exactly that too.  Like when Crouch said "it doesn't matter what rockshoe you wear until you climb harder than 7c".  This from a man employed to sell rockshoes.
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Offline Jim

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2010, 11:02:12 am »
I'd love to see him do deliverance in boreals
"Why we still paying so much for sneakers when they're made by little slave kids? What are your overheads?"

Offline SA Chris

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2010, 11:05:35 am »
What goes on in that head of yours crouch? 

Surely this is a question that no-one really wants to know the answer to.
A man, a plan, a van, Al Panama?

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2010, 11:07:17 am »
Carnage? The first move is a big one but I'd say its a matter of power more than lank. Leah did it and she can't be that tall?
...at least I don't wear any Lycra

Offline Jim

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2010, 11:09:49 am »
yes but its not 7a+ or 7b
"Why we still paying so much for sneakers when they're made by little slave kids? What are your overheads?"

Offline nik at work

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2010, 11:16:12 am »
I'd say Carnage is perhaps a bit harder for the short.
Sitting Bull is nails for the short or I'm missing something, Crazy Horse is a better suggestion.

Has anybody said Magic Bus yet? It still gets 7B+ I think but soft at it and fine for stumps (as long as you don't get sucked into a lanksters sequence)

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2010, 11:47:35 am »
yes but its not 7a+ or 7b

Fair enough, If you're strong though it could easily be on the cards as its basic for Font.

Has anybody said Magic Bus yet? It still gets 7B+ I think but soft at it and fine for stumps (as long as you don't get sucked into a lanksters sequence)

I did exactly that and it felt 8b.
...at least I don't wear any Lycra

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2010, 12:20:13 pm »
What about Lapin au Canard at Hautes Plaines, one of the exits is a touch harder I believe? Its a roof.
...at least I don't wear any Lycra

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2010, 12:21:54 pm »
that was alrready one of sausage's recommendations paul :rtfm:
magic bus is not easy if you're normal, small is piss tall is piss, inbetween feels hideous
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #17 on: February 09, 2010, 12:24:45 pm »
Take it as a second then baldy. (its not raining here you see, in fact its quite sunny so I'm doing other things  ;))

Gargantoit? I don't see that in here. Excellent problem, a bit harder if you're short as your heel will be of less use earlier on. Again, a roof. Only 7a so maybe I need to find an extra plus.

Oliver Twist, Rocher Greau

La Baliene, Petit Bois
...at least I don't wear any Lycra

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #18 on: February 09, 2010, 12:27:44 pm »
well here its shit shit fuckin shit. am off to meet fiend at mcd's shortly
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Johnny Brown

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #19 on: February 09, 2010, 12:30:36 pm »
Pensees Cachees
L'angle Parfait
Master Edge
El Poussif

Offline Paul B

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #20 on: February 09, 2010, 12:32:36 pm »
El Poussah (you can add an extra move if you're desperate for the 7b tick, I wouldn't bother).
...at least I don't wear any Lycra

Offline Jim

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #21 on: February 09, 2010, 12:53:45 pm »
L'angle Parfait
Master Edge
El Poussif
these are fucking nails!
"Why we still paying so much for sneakers when they're made by little slave kids? What are your overheads?"

Offline rodma

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #22 on: February 09, 2010, 01:02:12 pm »
Biceps Mou and Pince Mi are both fine if you're small and are conveniently next to one another.

Offline a dense loner

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #23 on: February 09, 2010, 05:56:28 pm »
rodma's on money there. our midget friend who's with us loves them probs, at cuvier. gotta like pinches tho
theres a lot of big grades goin around at the moment?

Offline Doylo

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Re: Font recommendations 7a+/7b for shorties
« Reply #24 on: February 09, 2010, 06:17:30 pm »
well here its shit shit fuckin shit. am off to meet fiend at mcd's shortly

Keep it together big guy. Steam wank will see you right